SRAM Red Etap 12 speed or Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 11spd
06-30-21, 06:55 PM
#1
Let’s discuss bikes
Thread Starter
SRAM Red Etap 12 speed or Shimano Dura-Ace Di2 11spd
Hey Everyone,
How are you? I just got a new bike, a Specialized Aethos with SRAM Force Etap. I rushed the shop a bit as I had someone waiting for me and I don’t think the front derailleur limits were set up right. Needless to say I threw the chain three times on my 20k ride home. I was a bit upset but figured I’ll be able to sort out the adjustments And make it shift as well as Ultegra Di2, which I did.
by that time I had already asked the shop if they could switch me over to Shimano which they did for a great price. When I walked in to pick up my bike I was already missing the fun factor with the SRAM wireless setup. The Shimano Dura-Ace really is beautiful, The shifts seem a bit quicker and the action is very smooth. But still, I’m wondering if going to this 11 speed wired system was the right move i’m thinking I should’ve done Sram 12 speed etap.
The shop has been great and I’m sure if I would covered the labour they would probably switch it out for me but feel a bit silly to even ask at this point.
How are you? I just got a new bike, a Specialized Aethos with SRAM Force Etap. I rushed the shop a bit as I had someone waiting for me and I don’t think the front derailleur limits were set up right. Needless to say I threw the chain three times on my 20k ride home. I was a bit upset but figured I’ll be able to sort out the adjustments And make it shift as well as Ultegra Di2, which I did.
by that time I had already asked the shop if they could switch me over to Shimano which they did for a great price. When I walked in to pick up my bike I was already missing the fun factor with the SRAM wireless setup. The Shimano Dura-Ace really is beautiful, The shifts seem a bit quicker and the action is very smooth. But still, I’m wondering if going to this 11 speed wired system was the right move i’m thinking I should’ve done Sram 12 speed etap.
The shop has been great and I’m sure if I would covered the labour they would probably switch it out for me but feel a bit silly to even ask at this point.
06-30-21, 07:05 PM
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,850
Mentioned: 38 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6944 Post(s)
Liked 10,944 Times
in
4,677 Posts
So, to recap: you bought a terrific new bike with top-of-the-line SRAM, immediately paid the shop to switch it to top-of-the-line Shimano, and now you're asking us if you should pay them again to switch it back to the SRAM?
I don't even have words to respond to this.
I don't even have words to respond to this.
Likes For Koyote:
06-30-21, 07:23 PM
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2014
Posts: 2,433
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 741 Post(s)
Liked 412 Times
in
230 Posts
I am wondering how they even had a complete group left in their store. Normally, shops don’t buy complete groups. I am having a hard time believing this story.
06-30-21, 07:28 PM
#4
Let’s discuss bikes
Thread Starter
The Di2 group was pulled from a Cervello S5 which then then built back up with my Force Etap. So it went wireless and I got the wired Di2 with an 11-30 cassette.
06-30-21, 07:35 PM
#5
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
Setting up of eTap cane be a bit tricky but once dialed in it's flawless.
The smallest adjustment of the limit screws on the FD can make the difference between dropped chain and perfect shifting, so learn to make your own fine tuning.
I got the original Red eTap and after the initial ride it's dropped the chain less times than I can count on one hand. That's over 6 years and 28,000 miles.
My opinion is biased since i've only owned Sram and the times i've ridden Shimano I was not impressed.
So bottom line... keep the Shimano, it's fine and works well.
The smallest adjustment of the limit screws on the FD can make the difference between dropped chain and perfect shifting, so learn to make your own fine tuning.
I got the original Red eTap and after the initial ride it's dropped the chain less times than I can count on one hand. That's over 6 years and 28,000 miles.
My opinion is biased since i've only owned Sram and the times i've ridden Shimano I was not impressed.
So bottom line... keep the Shimano, it's fine and works well.
06-30-21, 07:49 PM
#6
Let’s discuss bikes
Thread Starter
thanks for the feedback Glenn I appreciate it! I found the adjustment of the front pretty simple for the front. I went in 3/4 turn on the top limiter. And backed off the bottom 1/2 a turn. Then I checked the firmware and they hadn’t updated it so I went through and updated everything.ro 2.7.3. The front updates included bug fixed which may be helped with my shifting issue?
I turned on the sequential shifts which was kind of cool the front automatically do it’s thing. I put anther 20/30km with zero shifting issues. It didn’t seem as smooth as the Di2, but was solid.
I turned on the sequential shifts which was kind of cool the front automatically do it’s thing. I put anther 20/30km with zero shifting issues. It didn’t seem as smooth as the Di2, but was solid.
Setting up of eTap cane be a bit tricky but once dialed in it's flawless.
The smallest adjustment of the limit screws on the FD can make the difference between dropped chain and perfect shifting, so learn to make your own fine tuning.
I got the original Red eTap and after the initial ride it's dropped the chain less times than I can count on one hand. That's over 6 years and 28,000 miles.
My opinion is biased since i've only owned Sram and the times i've ridden Shimano I was not impressed.
So bottom line... keep the Shimano, it's fine and works well.
The smallest adjustment of the limit screws on the FD can make the difference between dropped chain and perfect shifting, so learn to make your own fine tuning.
I got the original Red eTap and after the initial ride it's dropped the chain less times than I can count on one hand. That's over 6 years and 28,000 miles.
My opinion is biased since i've only owned Sram and the times i've ridden Shimano I was not impressed.
So bottom line... keep the Shimano, it's fine and works well.
06-30-21, 07:59 PM
#7
On Your Left
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Long Island, New York, USA
Posts: 8,373
Bikes: Trek Emonda SLR, Sram eTap, Zipp 303
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3004 Post(s)
Liked 2,433 Times
in
1,187 Posts
06-30-21, 08:08 PM
#8
Let’s discuss bikes
Thread Starter
07-01-21, 07:06 AM
#9
he said member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: is everything
Posts: 13,801
Bikes: yes please
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2789 Post(s)
Liked 1,950 Times
in
1,206 Posts
Just to add another log to the fire. I believe you are keeping the Shimano set up which is the right choice. Sram e tap is no longer supported by Sram. No parts, no help. It wouldn't be prudent to buy a new bike with an unsupported groupset. Should something go wrong you'd be kinda stuck. 12 speed AXS groupsets are still supported.
07-01-21, 07:12 AM
#10
Let’s discuss bikes
Thread Starter
okay maybe I’m clueless I thought AXS was Etap! I really meant AXS or the newest wireless electric shifting from SRAM. 😀
thanks for replying to my message and the information!
thanks for replying to my message and the information!
Just to add another log to the fire. I believe you are keeping the Shimano set up which is the right choice. Sram e tap is no longer supported by Sram. No parts, no help. It wouldn't be prudent to buy a new bike with an unsupported groupset. Should something go wrong you'd be kinda stuck. 12 speed AXS groupsets are still supported.
07-01-21, 07:34 AM
#11
Senior Member
The latest SRAM AXS 12 speed is also etap. People mistakenly think that using the term etap means the older 11 speed group.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/road/series
You now have shimano 11 speed, which will soon be outdated when 12 speed comes out later this year. I would have kept the force axs.
Setting up an axs FD is not difficult, but one simple mistake can result in the sensitive limit screw adjustments that are frequently mentioned. That mistake is not paying attention to the alignment marks on the FD cage after the clamp bolt is fully tightened. Quite often the FD will rotate slightly during the final tightening, leaving the alignment marks not parallel to the big chain ring. That’s what causes the sensitive limit screw issue.
FWIW, I've setup a force axs FD 8 times now with 6 different cranks and never had limit screw sensitivity or any chain drops. None of my cranks are SRAM.
I also don't use the wedge. I never use sequential or compensating modes. Those are for beginners and can cause chain drops.
https://www.sram.com/en/sram/road/series
You now have shimano 11 speed, which will soon be outdated when 12 speed comes out later this year. I would have kept the force axs.
Setting up an axs FD is not difficult, but one simple mistake can result in the sensitive limit screw adjustments that are frequently mentioned. That mistake is not paying attention to the alignment marks on the FD cage after the clamp bolt is fully tightened. Quite often the FD will rotate slightly during the final tightening, leaving the alignment marks not parallel to the big chain ring. That’s what causes the sensitive limit screw issue.
FWIW, I've setup a force axs FD 8 times now with 6 different cranks and never had limit screw sensitivity or any chain drops. None of my cranks are SRAM.
I also don't use the wedge. I never use sequential or compensating modes. Those are for beginners and can cause chain drops.
