robertj298 

I have the pedal apart but was wondering if there is a special tool to
Turn the cup to tighten? I don't think a socket will fit but I was able
to loosen it with just a screwdriver it wqasn't on very tight. The pedal
had a nout with a slotted washer and then the cup

Iride01 

Are you thinking all pedals are designed like the others and that each is serviced exactly the same way?

How 'bout a pic or a model number?

Davewn

I just rebuilt a pair of vintage SR pedals for the first time a couple of weeks ago. I found it easiest to just hold the side of the cone with a slotted screwdriver and adjust tightness by turning the spindle until you're ready to lock it down with the retaining nut.

zandoval 

Thinking on a Leotard pedal Park made an old tool like the CCW-2 but smaller. I use a thin walled 7/16th socket from an old ChiCom DXed socket set...

robertj298 

I’ve never serviced a pedal so I wouldn’t know if they are all the same. I’ve serviced a dozen different vintage bottom brackets and they’ve all been the same. These are SP155 and here is a photo of the cone nut and slotted washer. There is another bot that holds it all together on top

CliffordK

Shimano makes some pedal cone wrench sets:

Shimano TL PD300 Pedal Cone Adjusting Tool Set
7mm locknut, 10mm cone OR
10mm locknut, 13mm cone

TL-PD63 Shimano Pedal Cone Adjusting Tool
7mm locknut, 10mm cone OR
8mm locknut, 11mm cone

Shimano TL-PD33 PD-M324 Flat Pedal Bearing Cone Adjust Tools Set
7mm locknut, 10mm cone
10mm locknut,13mm cone

Whew, I didn't think they were that expensive!!!

Andrew R Stewart 

My go tools are a flat bladed screw driver jammed along the side of the cone and a socket or wrench on the lock nut. I have a few model specific pedal bearing tools (including the Shimano one mentioned) and they work well, for their specific pedals. Andy

dedhed

^^^^^^^
this

Unca_Sam

I've done this a handful of times because many other hobbyists would rather toss them than rebuild.

My approach is just like other adjustable bearings. I'll find a socket that works for the cone, and screw the core down finger tight, then back off enough to leave a small amount of play. Next, slide the slotted washer onto the keyway and start tightening the lock nut. If the pedal spins freely and there's no play with the lock nut tightened, the job is done. If the bearing is too tight or still has play, adjust the cone looser or tighter, and repeat.
The key to this (a pun!) is the keyed washer. Without one, you'll want the flat screwdriver to try to keep the cone from tightening along with the lock nut.

Unca_Sam

I wanted to add that pedals use an absurd amount of balls in the bearings. You'll usually need 44 1/8" balls to rebuild a set (11 per bearing, 2 bearings per pedal). IIRC, the set of Lyotard Berthet pedals I rebuilt used 5/32" instead.

Notes will help. Try to track how many balls came out when you open each side, because it might not be the same. Measure the balls to be sure you have the right size to replace what you take out (some shimano pedals use the smaller 3/32" balls).

Unca_Sam

But boy, time is money in the shop or at the race, and getting those bearings right the first time consistently probably makes these a bargain.

sweeks

All my Shimano (SPD) and MKS (AR2-Ezy) pedals are easily adjustable with deep well, thin wall sockets.
I find that if, after tightening the lock nut, the bearing is too tight, backing out the cone with the larger of the two sockets will generally give the correct play. The anti-rotation washer only helps so much to prevent the lock nut from changing the cone's position.

SurferRosa

"bot"???

No, there's a lock nut that holds it in place. Just use a socket wrench on it. In your other hand, use a pedal wrench on the inside flat to hold the axle still.

Just like your vintage bb's, vintage pedals (that are serviceable) are pretty much serviced all in the same way. Though you may need to use a different socket (typically 10-12mm) on the lock nut between sets.

Unca_Sam

Eh? You have been effectively confused, then.
I use a socket to set bearing preload with my fingers. Then I use a socket on a ratchet to tighten the locknut. I'll echo your tip to use an open end wrench on the flats to keep the spindle from moving. I'm usually using the vise, myself.

robertj298 

You are right. Mine took 50 1/8” bearings 13 and 12 for each pedal . It was a pia to work with those tiny bearings. Other than that it was a pretty straight forward job