Wnford1

How do I stop sliding forward. Is my seat too far back?

Cyclist0108

Try any or all of these:

Tip the saddle up a bit.

Shorten the stem.

Move saddle forward a bit.

Kontact 

Most of the time it is because the saddle is too far forward, or you are reaching too far to the bars.

Your saddle height and set back should keep you in place even with your hands not on the bars. Then you select a stem that works with that saddle position.

In other words, you need to be somewhat behind the crank so that your CG is well in front of you butt.

Carbonfiberboy 

I don't think reach much matters in this unless it's so extreme that one simply can't easily reach the bars. Your saddle is too far forward and may not be level. If you saddle is slightly curved in profile, say 1/8" or so, as many are, also try leveling the large flat rear section. After you get your saddle in the right spot, adjust stem length so that your upper arms are at right angles to your torso, back straight.

berner

If you decide to raise the nose of the saddle a bit, be aware that a bit means such a small amount as to seem negligible. It is often hard to believe that tiny changes in saddle position can have such large effects. A very little goes a very long way.

IK_biker

Wrong!
It is the other way around.

KD5NRH

Put a 3" construction screw up through the nose of the saddle at a 45 degree angle pointing backward. You won't slide forward twice after that.

fietsbob

I see the racers pushing hard to go fast , up on the nose of their saddles.. JRA , enjoying the day no reason to work that hard..

79pmooney

Yes. And a really good reason to use 2-bolt seatposts; the ones with two bolts in a line so you have to adjust both to adjust the tip. Sounds like a pain but it is not. YOu simply loosen the rear bolt and adjust the front bolt a small amount, say 1/4 of a wrench turn. Re-tighten the rear. Go ride. Like it? Great. Too much? Repeat the process but loosen the front bolt 1/8 of a turn.

One of the best features of 2-bolt posts is that you can do accurate, repeatable adjustments out on the road with no measuring tools or a carpenter's level. Another is that if you are (say) a racer or on a tour, get a saddle sore and HAVE to ride tomorrow, simple adjust the tip to get off that sore and ride. In a week when it is gone, going back to exactly where you started is easy.

Saddle tilt is the most important adjustment on the bike. It has the smallest tolerance between "right there" and bad. I suspect most of the reason they are not popular comes down to the fact that they are more time-consuming to set up so labor, both at the factory and the bike shop.

Ben

torger

Here's some reasons I can think about if you slide forward on the saddle:

* Saddle is too far back (in relation to bottom bracket)
* Saddle is too far forward (so when you put pressure on the pedals you push yourself even more forward).
* Too long reach to the handlebar
* Saddle height is off, usually too high
* Saddle too much tilted down

Regarding saddle tilt I think that should only be adjusted for comfort, not for keeping you in one place. But maybe the tilt is sub-optimal for comfort too so it's worth reviewing. And as some already have stated, when you change saddle tilt you should do it in very small increments. In terms of saddle tilt for comfort it's much more common to actually want to have some tilt down rather than tilt up, but there are exceptions.