Finding correct chainring NUT size
08-28-21, 05:10 PM
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Finding correct chainring NUT size
One of the chainring nuts on my 2005 FSA G-2, 39/53 teeth crank is stripped to the point I cannot get the park chainring nut tool to properly seat on it. How can I find the proper size replacement? The nut is loose and when I stand up to pedal I hear creaking coming from the crank area.
08-28-21, 05:17 PM
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Which side are you turning? I'd think the inside would be what you want held still. If you are trying to turn the slotted, then you are doing it wrong. You should be turning the outside bolt with a torx.
I might be wrong. Maybe someone else will say.
Don't know about replacements, but I'd just go to my bike shop, chat up the mechanic or owner and probably come home with a free nut from their parts bins.
I might be wrong. Maybe someone else will say.
Don't know about replacements, but I'd just go to my bike shop, chat up the mechanic or owner and probably come home with a free nut from their parts bins.
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08-29-21, 04:40 AM
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Which side are you turning? I'd think the inside would be what you want held still. If you are trying to turn the slotted, then you are doing it wrong. You should be turning the outside bolt with a torx.
I might be wrong. Maybe someone else will say.
Don't know about replacements, but I'd just go to my bike shop, chat up the mechanic or owner and probably come home with a free nut from their parts bins.
I might be wrong. Maybe someone else will say.
Don't know about replacements, but I'd just go to my bike shop, chat up the mechanic or owner and probably come home with a free nut from their parts bins.
08-29-21, 09:25 AM
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The bolt and nut are probably somewhat crank specific in their external shape and size. So you might have to search through a bunch of them in spare parts bins of several shops. I've never had cranks with that type bolt and nut.
Is the nut turning when you try to tighten the bolt? Usually I only have to hold the nut till it starts to snug. But like I said, I don't have that particular type.
Is the nut turning when you try to tighten the bolt? Usually I only have to hold the nut till it starts to snug. But like I said, I don't have that particular type.
08-29-21, 10:59 AM
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Yeah the nut is turn when I'm turning the torx. The slots on the nuts are stripped a bit so I can't really get it tight. And if I turn with just the torx the whole assembly spins.
08-29-21, 11:20 AM
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/26525675784...pid=1775927467
You drill out the inside threaded piece and it falls apart. These alloy components have to be kept clean or else you end up with the problem you presently have.
You drill out the inside threaded piece and it falls apart. These alloy components have to be kept clean or else you end up with the problem you presently have.
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08-29-21, 01:52 PM
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Thanks for the link.
08-29-21, 03:18 PM
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Fortunately, chainring bolt sizes are pretty standard. You just need to buy a set of double chainring bolts.
FSA does use torx and slotted backs. Others use 5mm/6mm hex. I prefer bolts that have a 6mm back over the slotted ones.
FSA does use torx and slotted backs. Others use 5mm/6mm hex. I prefer bolts that have a 6mm back over the slotted ones.
08-29-21, 06:13 PM
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Same here. My FSA double chain ring bolt and nut set has both hex bolts and hex nuts. But all the single chain ring bolt and nut sets I have seen have the slotted nuts.
