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C'est fini! -- PX-10 content

Old 06-16-22, 08:48 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
I'm not sure what to make of the upper bands here. Was it an attempt at the French colors by someone who is insufficiently skilled at heraldry? Or is it meant to be the Netherlands' colors? The Ireland sticker makes the Netherlands a possibility, I think, if a previous owner was tracking where the bike had been ridden. I've seen the bleu-blanc-rouge in this orientation, but if that's what it's meant to be they're in the wrong order, I think, and the proper French flag would have the colors vertical. I'm not sure my latent OCD will allow this to stay.
Originally Posted by Drillium Dude
Hah, my own OCD kicked in when I saw this, too, but for a different reason: r/w/b bands at the top just looks wrong - the World Championship bands should bracket on both ends. I don't know if that's how it originally left the factory, or if the r/w/b band was added by a PO, but it just looks wrong. Plus, it's foil while the rest of the ensemble appears to be normal water-slide decal.

The bike came out beautifully - one of your best builds in recent memory. If I could be so bold: how about a close-up of that purty rear derailleur?

DD
Yes,I caught that too, from the pic they appear to be non original "sticky" backs from a much later period...not water-slide etc. If really OCD I am sure you can source some that suit the build better.
Best, Ben
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Old 06-16-22, 09:11 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by oneclick
Re FW threads - If the has a groove machined around the section of the flange to which the freewheel attaches, it's imperial threaded.

Re the binder bolt - if you cannot find one with a longer tab, get one with a hex socket on both ends, use two keys to tighten it.
No groove on the hub. I tested it with a Regina freewheel with two grooves, which I'm told means it was French. Then I tested the Cyclo freewheel by trying to screw an ISO BB adjustable cup into it, which wouldn't fit. I think it's all settled.

The binder bolt I have has a socket on both end, but since the ears on the frame don't have a slot for the key I think it's pushing in the end of the ear and not enough on the side of the post. I'll probably just file the key off of the bolt.
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Old 06-16-22, 09:13 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by jdawginsc
Awesome! Did you use silver paint on the RD hanger to blend with the chrome?
No, I just left it bare. I guess eventually it'll need something to prevent rust, but I've got another bike that I left bare like this and it hasn't shown any rust after two or three years.
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Old 06-16-22, 09:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ehcoplex
Did you use the original Stronglight BB, or is that a V-O?
I used a V-O BB. My first attempt was with the 118mm BB that V-O recommends, but it put the big ring so far out that the Simplex FD wouldn't reach it. I had a 107mm V-O BB on the shelf, so I swapped that in. The gap between the crank and the BB fixed cup is miniscule, but otherwise it seems OK. If it doesn't feel too narrow when pedaling I'll leave it like this until the BB inevitably starts unscrewing.
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Old 06-16-22, 09:39 AM
  #30  
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PX-10s are gorgeous, and I am all for "sympathetic" builds. I also appreciate a fellow cyclist who sees no need for high gearing, although I do like something around the mid-90s, such as 45 or 46/13 or 49 or 50/14. Skipping the super-high gearing and going with a reduced-size outer chainring solves a lot of problems when you need low gears and don't have a super-long and low-mounted rear derailleur cage.
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Old 06-16-22, 09:50 AM
  #31  
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Ce n'est pas la fin. Ça ne fait que commencer.

(It's not the end. It's just starting.)
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Old 06-16-22, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
The binder bolt I have has a socket on both end, but since the ears on the frame don't have a slot for the key I think it's pushing in the end of the ear and not enough on the side of the post. I'll probably just file the key off of the bolt.
5 minutes with a jeweler's file will make a slot in the ear, then you won't have to worry about needing a bespoke bolt.
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Old 06-16-22, 09:56 AM
  #33  
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^^^^^ Oh No......What color is Peugeot White?
Best, Ben
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Old 06-16-22, 10:16 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by oneclick
5 minutes with a jeweler's file will make a slot in the ear, then you won't have to worry about needing a bespoke bolt.
Probably so, but I'm much more comfortable modifying a $6 binder bolt than cutting into the frame.
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Old 06-16-22, 10:19 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by xiaoman1
^^^^^ Oh No......What color is Peugeot White?
Don't even get me started. You clearly know how I get. I'm already afraid to wash this because I like the patina. I was very nervous wiping off the dirt that was left around the old shifter clamp. And somewhere it picked up a long scratch along the bottom of the downtube. I might have to accept a slight color mismatch there.
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Old 06-16-22, 10:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
Don't even get me started. You clearly know how I get. I'm already afraid to wash this because I like the patina. I was very nervous wiping off the dirt that was left around the old shifter clamp. And somewhere it picked up a long scratch along the bottom of the downtube. I might have to accept a slight color mismatch there.
OK, then I wont mention the black tape on the bars is not symmetrical.
The bike still looks fantastic and you will only notice the "BIG" scratch when laying resting after the DBL century!
Signing out on this one. Enjoy.
​​​​​​​Best, Ben
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Old 06-16-22, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Andy_K
Don't even get me started. You clearly know how I get. I'm already afraid to wash this because I like the patina. I was very nervous wiping off the dirt that was left around the old shifter clamp. And somewhere it picked up a long scratch along the bottom of the downtube. I might have to accept a slight color mismatch there.
Since you mentioned my PH-60, I'll tell you what I went through. The bike came to me from France fairly dirty, so I stripped it down to the bare frame. I carefully removed the grime, but the paint was still fairly oxidized. I carefully removed that layer with rubbing compound, but noticed that the pinstriping and decals would wear down, so I was very careful not to touch them. I think I worked on the paint for several days, it felt like I was touching up the Sistine Chapel.
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Old 06-16-22, 11:10 AM
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Originally Posted by gugie
Since you mentioned my PH-60, I'll tell you what I went through. The bike came to me from France fairly dirty, so I stripped it down to the bare frame. I carefully removed the grime, but the paint was still fairly oxidized. I carefully removed that layer with rubbing compound, but noticed that the pinstriping and decals would wear down, so I was very careful not to touch them. I think I worked on the paint for several days, it felt like I was touching up the Sistine Chapel.
I hadn't really thought about the likelihood that the paint itself has yellowed. I was thinking of it as a layer on the paint, but that's probably wrong.
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Old 06-16-22, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by gugie
Since you mentioned my PH-60, I'll tell you what I went through. The bike came to me from France fairly dirty, so I stripped it down to the bare frame. I carefully removed the grime, but the paint was still fairly oxidized. I carefully removed that layer with rubbing compound, but noticed that the pinstriping and decals would wear down, so I was very careful not to touch them. I think I worked on the paint for several days, it felt like I was touching up the Sistine Chapel.
The old Q-tip with a bit of T-Cut!
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