CanCruiser

Hi All,
My 10-spd Sekine has center pull brake calipers (on steel rims), similar to these




The calipers take the standard old-style pads like these. And they are in dire need of replacement. Each pad measure approx 50mm long




I'm considering new modern pads, preferably the cartridge style, and found those ones and wondering if anyone with similar caliper successfully installed this kind of shoes. Any issues you foresee??
Thanks..

branko_76 

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I like Kool-Stop for my vintage bikes...

CanCruiser

Thanks branko..
Are you referring to those? (note, I'm in Canada)

https://www.amazon.ca/Kool-Stop-Bicy...dp/B001SYM690/

Bad Lag

My advice -

1. Replace the steel rims with aluminum rims. Braking performance will be dramatically better and that includes during the rain, especially in the rain/wet.

2. Get out your belt sander and taper the pad from the rear to the front (front touches rim first). This will also cut thru the hardened rubber material, exposing fresh rubber with dramatically better performance.

albrt 

The Kool-Stops are a big improvement, especially for steel wheels. Yes, the ones in the ad are the ones everybody here likes.

That said, if you are open to modifications, getting a pair of used aluminum wheels from the local co-op will also make the bike remarkably lighter and more responsive. Probably not as shiny, though.

Classtime 

I have a set of these waiting in the wings.
https://www.porkchopbmx.com/scott-ma...d-vintage.html

branko_76 

Yes, that's it

branko_76 

I've done the same with a piece of sandpaper flat on the workbench and simply working the pad back and forth a few times. Belt sander will do it for sure but can also ruin them if not careful

Bad Lag

Sure, sand paper works, too. I've done it that way, too. Anything that removes the old, hard rubber exposing fresh material. The tapering prevents squeal. It makes a HUGE difference.

CanCruiser

Thanks fellas for all the replies. I'd like to stick with the steel rims for now, but I will place a couple of Kool Stop pad sets on order.They seem to be the most recommended from your replies. Made in USA too.. Yeah..

As for adjusting the pads for toe-in, I found this video quite helpful. At 8:48, the presenter tilted the caliper pad holder a bit to introduce toe-in during braking. This way the front end of the pad will contact the rim first before the back end, even if the pad is flat with use.

dddd

Allow me to play contrarian for a moment.

Usually if the pads are old and hardened, sanding down to a fresh surface will only buy a little bit of time before the surface re-glazes. Many times, I've discovered fresh shards of rim material in pads that were recently re-surfaced.

Steel rims are perfectly fine (and look great) if the braking surfaces aren't uneven from dings or from a poor rim joint weld.
Fine in dry-weather riding that is.
Be cautious as well of riding across wet grass, which might severely reduce braking effectiveness for some time in cool and/or humid weather.

Surfacing brake pads to effect a "toe-in" condition needs to take into account that the caliper often isn't perfectly perpendicular to the wheel, as many bikes have either forks that have been previously tweaked or that weren't perfectly straight at the caliper mounting hole to begin with.
Sometimes all that is needed to eliminate squeal is to get both pads perfectly flat with the rim, since one pad may be very slightly toe-out while the other pad is very slightly toe in!

So I always start by using an accelerated break-in process that machines both pads flat to the rim as installed. This also improves the feel at the lever, giving a more-solid point of contact in the middle of the lever's travel (at the end of the free travel, as the pads first contact the rim).
If squealing occurs after breaking-in the pads, usually it's a matter of too high a friction between the particular pad and rim, so I may choose a different pad material in lieu of applying any temporary toe-in to the pad/rim interface. I say temporary, because toe-in always wears away over time.

Visualize forcing the wheel forward with the belt-sandpaper moving past the brake pad with the brake lightly applied, which re-surfaces the pad and levels the pad surface to the rim at the same time. Very fast pad "alignment" for traditional pads having no swivel washers!

Steel rims often don't work with pad materials intended for alloy rims, so don't be surprised if the brakes are grabby or noisy or if the pad material melts onto the rim surface!

Older DiaCompe and Suntour calipers used pads which seem to never harden (and which are usually friendly to chromed steel rims)! I hoard these precious parts!!!
Weinmann, Universal and Shimano caliper pads, NOT SO MUCH.

Aardwolf

I used to get regular brake squeal on my Weinmann 500 sidepulls with old Weinmann pads (I'd had the bike 3 months).

Then I got some Kool Stop Salmon Weinmann-X pads (https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/brake-bl...pound-2-pairs/)
I fitted the new pads and then bent the brake calipers to set the toe in.
That's the 'traditional' way and can break the arms if you're not careful (https://www.sheldonbrown.com/rim-brakes.html).

They've been completely silent since then

(Edit) Forgot to mention: I marked the front edge of the pad holder with a drill so whenever I take the pads off they go back on the same way round.

dddd

Replying to my own earlier post, forgot to include the picture of my accelerated break-in process, forcing the wheel and sandpaper forward (with brake applied) to machine the pad flat to the rim:

John E

KoolStop pads. Accept no substitute.

tjfastback66

Raleigh Twenty - original steel rims with Kool Stop pads (Kinda tough inserting them into the original Weinmann pad holders).

smd4

What is that triangular bit of metal above the caliper pivot bolt? A way to center the brake?

tjfastback66

Great Question!
The Raleigh Twenty (R-20) is / was very popular back in the day and visible in this picture, against the lower steering bearing, is the chrome-plated stop that prevents the forks being reversed.