Immersive waxing / it should be more popular
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I clamp an old wooden broom handle in my Feedback Sports Ultralight work stand, rotate the clamp so that the broom handle is horizontal (and parallel to the ground). I drape the chain over the broom handle and drag the chain over the broom handle while holding both ends of the chain. Flip chain over and repeat.
#402
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Honestly, it was hard to tell. Darkish for sure, but also the color of the crockpot is black so I didn't think anything of it. I set the chain on top of the cold wax and turned the crock pot on. When I came to get it out like 45 mins later it was that color...
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...the "JUMP POINT". This is the moment in the test where the chain wear rate measures change from zero or minimal wear, to a notable wear jump. This signifies when the lubricant treatment is effectively done. Whilst it may continue for some hundreds of km's from that point until it reaches wear rate limit, this JUMP POINT denotes when there will be a marked increase in friction losses for that lubricant. Once hardened steel parts begin to wear at a noticeable rate - friction losses have jumped.
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#405
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After reading through the thread, not as easy as this:
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This is an excerpt from Zero Friction Cycling - Lubricant Testing:
...the "JUMP POINT". This is the moment in the test where the chain wear rate measures change from zero or minimal wear, to a notable wear jump. This signifies when the lubricant treatment is effectively done. Whilst it may continue for some hundreds of km's from that point until it reaches wear rate limit, this JUMP POINT denotes when there will be a marked increase in friction losses for that lubricant. Once hardened steel parts begin to wear at a noticeable rate - friction losses have jumped.
...the "JUMP POINT". This is the moment in the test where the chain wear rate measures change from zero or minimal wear, to a notable wear jump. This signifies when the lubricant treatment is effectively done. Whilst it may continue for some hundreds of km's from that point until it reaches wear rate limit, this JUMP POINT denotes when there will be a marked increase in friction losses for that lubricant. Once hardened steel parts begin to wear at a noticeable rate - friction losses have jumped.
#407
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#409
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You are supposed to take the beef stroganoff out of the crock pot before you put your block of wax in it.
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For those of us that haven't tried waxing, what kind of a result is this? How close is it to a good job?
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Candle wax is cheaper and has more mineral oil in it but doesn't perform as well for chains. I don't recall why I just know that is one of the issues with DIY waxing.
Lab grade wax I read is the purest and supposedly is what some of the pre made chain waxing products are based on.
#413
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Here is a pic of two freshly waxed and dried chains
Haven’t ridden it yet but I found the process of cleaning/degreasing the drive train and chain a lot of work. The waxing of the chain wasn’t too bad actually but the loosening of the “frozen” waxed chain was annoying. The part that really was a pain was attaching the waxed quick link. I found I had to scrape off wax from several tight spots to get it to lock. Even then it took quite a while to get it to lock properly. I was using a KMC quick link. I tried and failed using SRAM’s quick link supplied with the chain.
To loosen the chain you can run it over a round piece of wood or plastic, like a broom handle, much quicker and easy on your hands if you have too much wax on the chain. If it's pulled out and dripped hot then breaking the links is much easier. As you can see in the image above, there aren't any long stalactites or fat drops forming at the bottom and the surface is coated but not caked.
I never wax the quick links. The hole the pins go into is waxed with the chain and will lubricate that link. If you don't wax these then you won't have to scrape the little grooves free and can just go ahead and connect it up.
To reduce the amount of flaking on your freshly coated chain, pull it from the hot wax and let it drip off immediately while the wax is very liquid. Some people do some semi-cooled pull-out or double dip method to get as much wax onto it as possible but that's just an external mess and won't change how much wax is retained inside as that is coated and stays in place even if you pull it out at its hottest. If you are doing that anyway then the amount of residue is just what you will have to live with, just don't backpedal it all off at home as it will fall off on the first ride anyway and then you can just brush the chainstays and RD to get rid of the flakes that landed there if they bother you.
Last edited by yaw; 09-13-22 at 12:25 AM.
#414
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It is absolutely abnormal, see my picture above how a normal waxed chain looks like. It also leaves the cassette and chainrings clean and does not change in appearance over time (i.e., does not darken or discolour).
Last edited by yaw; 09-13-22 at 12:50 AM.
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Don't Wax the Quick Link?
Polaris OBark yaw If I don't wax the chain with the Quick Link in place, would there be too much wax on the inner plates for me to install the Quick Link later?
For reference, I am using plain Gulf Wax with no additives. I also bought a bag of Silca Secret Chain Blend but have not opened it since the Gulf Wax seems to be doing OK.
For reference, I am using plain Gulf Wax with no additives. I also bought a bag of Silca Secret Chain Blend but have not opened it since the Gulf Wax seems to be doing OK.
#416
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Polaris OBark yaw If I don't wax the chain with the Quick Link in place, would there be too much wax on the inner plates for me to install the Quick Link later?
For reference, I am using plain Gulf Wax with no additives. I also bought a bag of Silca Secret Chain Blend but have not opened it since the Gulf Wax seems to be doing OK.
For reference, I am using plain Gulf Wax with no additives. I also bought a bag of Silca Secret Chain Blend but have not opened it since the Gulf Wax seems to be doing OK.
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I've never waxed the quick-link. I just remove the wax from the ends, put the pins in a few times to push out the residual wax, and then close it with the Park tool.
#419
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#422
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If i follow your method, i would need two slow cookers, one for the dirty chain, one with clean wax, and two more chains, that's a lot of money to invest. Is it really worth it? i might consider it some day... the idea does look promising.
#423
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I don't see what you did there.
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#424
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Conditions are mostly hot, dry and dusty, so waxing sounds like the better alternative, but if it's benefits were to last for a day or two, it does discourage me as i feel lazy after commuting to spend time for chain maintenance.
If i follow your method, i would need two slow cookers, one for the dirty chain, one with clean wax, and two more chains, that's a lot of money to invest. Is it really worth it? i might consider it some day... the idea does look promising.
If i follow your method, i would need two slow cookers, one for the dirty chain, one with clean wax, and two more chains, that's a lot of money to invest. Is it really worth it? i might consider it some day... the idea does look promising.
If you are still concerned about contamination, you can put a little metal steam rack in to keep the chains off the bottom where all the particles would settle. Every now and then you could also let the wax solidify a bit and collect the top layer, then discard the bottom of the pot wax and put the top layer back in. In practice I can't see a reason for the two pot method unless one has or wants two pots with enough space to just leave them set up side by side on a dedicated wax station.
If you hit the odd wet weather situation, the extra step would be to put the chain in a container and pour some boiling water over it to flush it, then you can just wax it as usual. I flush and wax wet ride chains right away to prevent rust. If that is inconvenient, a hard drying wax lube like the Silca Super Secret or UFO drip will be suitable to coat it for protection until you can get to hot waxing.
As for the multiple chain thing, unless you plan on hanging up your bike shoes any time soon, you will buy these chains anyway. So if you buy them all now and rotate them, you will use them in parallel and make your other drivetrain components last even longer because worn chains are the number one thing eating away on chainrings and cogs. It would take a seriously long time, even with your kms, to get 2-3 waxed chains to the 0.5 replacement mark. In terms of investment, basic crockpots can be had for incredibly low prices but I do use a digital Philips all-in-one multi cooker on 'Slow Cook Low Temp' because it heats up much faster.
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