What bike style is easiest on wrists? (recovering roady here)
#1
King of the Plukers
Thread Starter
What bike style is easiest on wrists? (recovering roady here)
Been a while, BF peeps!
I had surgery last year to rebuild the scafo-lunate ligament in my left wrist. The doctor said that the ligament popped most likely while riding many miles on a road bike with wrists in a less-than-neutral position. Years pass, the bones float away from each other, hurts lots, and then surgery.
I want to get back into riding but because of a now forever compromised wrist I don't think the roady position is going to work well. I see people riding the straight bar bikes and wonder if that's better. And are they slow as molasses?
Recommendations?
I had surgery last year to rebuild the scafo-lunate ligament in my left wrist. The doctor said that the ligament popped most likely while riding many miles on a road bike with wrists in a less-than-neutral position. Years pass, the bones float away from each other, hurts lots, and then surgery.
I want to get back into riding but because of a now forever compromised wrist I don't think the roady position is going to work well. I see people riding the straight bar bikes and wonder if that's better. And are they slow as molasses?
Recommendations?
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,949
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6177 Post(s)
Liked 4,794 Times
in
3,306 Posts
If you weren't riding your drop bar bike with your hands and wrists in a neutral position, then don't blame the drop bars. That's all on you!
If I wasn't on a drop bar which offers 4 different hand positions, then I'd be using a bar that looks like the old roadster style bikes of the 50's and early 60's. The ones that the bar ends point almost straight back. Otherwise mustache bars, trekking bars or anything that gives you multiple hand positions. Not a flat bar with one hand positon that will let your wrist sag and give you the very bent wrist/hand position I'm supposing you may have had in the drops.
If I wasn't on a drop bar which offers 4 different hand positions, then I'd be using a bar that looks like the old roadster style bikes of the 50's and early 60's. The ones that the bar ends point almost straight back. Otherwise mustache bars, trekking bars or anything that gives you multiple hand positions. Not a flat bar with one hand positon that will let your wrist sag and give you the very bent wrist/hand position I'm supposing you may have had in the drops.
#3
ignominious poltroon
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 3,996
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2222 Post(s)
Liked 3,407 Times
in
1,779 Posts
I ride drop bars primarily to avoid the wrist pain inflicted by flat bars. So I am a bit curious about what position lead to your injury.
Likes For Polaris OBark:
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 3,947
Bikes: Trek 1100 road bike, Roadmaster gravel/commuter/beater mountain bike
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2281 Post(s)
Liked 1,710 Times
in
936 Posts
I ride flat bars, but always with bar ends which give me additional hand positions. I was getting pain in my hands and elbow from the drop bars on my 30 year old road bike, plus it wasn't really that comfortable because the hoods are not like modern hoods which give you plenty of room to rest your hands on. So I took the flat bars from my old bike and put them on this one, then added some new bar ends. It's a much more comfortable ride and I'm not slow as molasses. I know I am giving up some aero advantage but the tradeoff is worth it in my mind if I can ride further without so much discomfort.
#5
Senior Member
I ride bikes with drop bars, I like Nitto Noodles and I like randonneur bars. I also have taller stems. The drop bars allow for more hand positions, and the taller stems take more weight off my hands. I do not ride a narrow racing saddle..
Likes For ironwood:
Likes For Pratt:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,801
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
1,323 Posts
If I might ask, what is a neutral position?
John
John
Likes For 70sSanO:
#8
ignominious poltroon
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 3,996
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2222 Post(s)
Liked 3,407 Times
in
1,779 Posts
#9
Banned
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Lincoln Ne
Posts: 9,924
Bikes: RANS Stratus TerraTrike Tour II
Mentioned: 46 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3352 Post(s)
Liked 1,056 Times
in
635 Posts
Been a while, BF peeps!
I had surgery last year to rebuild the scafo-lunate ligament in my left wrist. The doctor said that the ligament popped most likely while riding many miles on a road bike with wrists in a less-than-neutral position. Years pass, the bones float away from each other, hurts lots, and then surgery.
I want to get back into riding but because of a now forever compromised wrist I don't think the roady position is going to work well. I see people riding the straight bar bikes and wonder if that's better. And are they slow as molasses?
Recommendations?
I had surgery last year to rebuild the scafo-lunate ligament in my left wrist. The doctor said that the ligament popped most likely while riding many miles on a road bike with wrists in a less-than-neutral position. Years pass, the bones float away from each other, hurts lots, and then surgery.
I want to get back into riding but because of a now forever compromised wrist I don't think the roady position is going to work well. I see people riding the straight bar bikes and wonder if that's better. And are they slow as molasses?
Recommendations?
Likes For rydabent:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Posts: 2,674
Bikes: too many sparkly Italians, some sweet Americans and a couple interesting Japanese
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 567 Post(s)
Liked 563 Times
in
405 Posts
I have osteoarthritis in my wrists and as said many trikes like my Catrike Expedition have padded wrist rests so there is zero loading on the wrist. A trike will be slower overall.
Likes For easyupbug:
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Kentucky
Posts: 2,599
Bikes: 06 Lemond Reno, 98 GT Timberline mtn.bike
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 426 Post(s)
Liked 696 Times
in
435 Posts
I have a metal plate with 8 screws in my wrist from a break 3 months ago. Riding on the hoods of my road bike is by far more comfortable and a more neutral position than my mtn. bike flat bar. Road bike gets my vote! Only short rides so far, but easy to tell the difference, all rides on pavement so far--doc says no trail riding for a while longer,
Likes For freeranger:
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,801
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
1,323 Posts
Been a while, BF peeps!
I had surgery last year to rebuild the scafo-lunate ligament in my left wrist. The doctor said that the ligament popped most likely while riding many miles on a road bike with wrists in a less-than-neutral position. Years pass, the bones float away from each other, hurts lots, and then surgery.
I want to get back into riding but because of a now forever compromised wrist I don't think the roady position is going to work well. I see people riding the straight bar bikes and wonder if that's better. And are they slow as molasses?
Recommendations?
I had surgery last year to rebuild the scafo-lunate ligament in my left wrist. The doctor said that the ligament popped most likely while riding many miles on a road bike with wrists in a less-than-neutral position. Years pass, the bones float away from each other, hurts lots, and then surgery.
I want to get back into riding but because of a now forever compromised wrist I don't think the roady position is going to work well. I see people riding the straight bar bikes and wonder if that's better. And are they slow as molasses?
Recommendations?
Since you are looking to get back on the road, at some acceptable speed, maybe a butterfly or reversed, or some derivative that allows arm rests and ride with your palms down while stretched out. You would still need a neutral position for tight turns/sketchy situations, but for wide open riding it might give you what you want.
John
#13
ignominious poltroon
Join Date: Jan 2022
Posts: 3,996
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2222 Post(s)
Liked 3,407 Times
in
1,779 Posts
Nobody has mentioned the most obvious answer:
Likes For Polaris OBark:
#15
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Everyone knows that this should align perfectly with a set of properly positioned Record brake levers, or the drops of a 40-42cm 3TTT Olympic.
The only people who can possibly be comfortable on a straight handlebar, or another of those misshapen aberrations are somehow mobility challenged, genetic mutants, or those born after 1970, who have fallen from The One True Way.
#16
Dirty Heathen
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: MC-778, 6250 fsw
Posts: 2,182
Bikes: 1997 Cannondale, 1976 Bridgestone, 1998 SoftRide, 1989 Klein, 1989 Black Lightning #0033
Mentioned: 19 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 889 Post(s)
Liked 906 Times
in
534 Posts
Do you still have the road bike? I've had good success with "Albatross" style swept bars on older road bikes to make a comfortable but still 'fast' ride in the Roadster/ Path-Racer style
They come in a wide range of widths and bends, so you may be able to find one to fit your particular needs.
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,801
Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1943 Post(s)
Liked 2,164 Times
in
1,323 Posts
Likes For 70sSanO:
#18
Senior Member
City or dutch bike style.
https://www.rei.com/product/100808/electra-loft-7d-bike
or, get a hybrid/MTB and put sweep bars on it.
Example: the Surly Moloko
https://www.rei.com/product/100808/electra-loft-7d-bike
or, get a hybrid/MTB and put sweep bars on it.
Example: the Surly Moloko
#19
Senior Member
#20
Grupetto Bob
Join Date: Sep 2020
Location: Seattle-ish
Posts: 6,182
Bikes: Bikey McBike Face
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2565 Post(s)
Liked 5,595 Times
in
2,903 Posts
The bars on the bike above should be ideal for your wrists. My wife has deteriorating wrist bones and can not ride a drop bar bike any longe. She has found that a bike with beach cruiser style bars is very forgiving. Best of luck
__________________
Road 🚴🏾♂️ & Mountain 🚵🏾♂️
Road 🚴🏾♂️ & Mountain 🚵🏾♂️
#22
King of the Plukers
Thread Starter
I have a metal plate with 8 screws in my wrist from a break 3 months ago. Riding on the hoods of my road bike is by far more comfortable and a more neutral position than my mtn. bike flat bar. Road bike gets my vote! Only short rides so far, but easy to tell the difference, all rides on pavement so far--doc says no trail riding for a while longer,
#23
Palmer
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Parts Unknown
Posts: 8,601
Bikes: Mike Melton custom, Alex Moulton AM, Dahon Curl
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1659 Post(s)
Liked 1,806 Times
in
1,052 Posts
Likes For tcs:
#24
Senior Member
The suggested bars @ #16 above, or anything similar, will do the job.
On any handlebar, pull on the handlebar. Do not passively lean on the bar. Be active when you ride. No need to weight the bar more than you would riding a unicycle. In some control situations you might load the handlebar but that is always short term.
It is not what you ride. It is how you ride.
I have been recommending the above for decades and then had a wrist injury. Doctor knew I was a cyclist, told me no bikes for a year or a certainty of meeting the hand surgeon. Telling me not to ride is like telling me not to breathe. I rode daily, paying more attention than usual to pulling on the bar. Had the one year followup and doc told me OK to ride again. It is always OK to ride.
On any handlebar, pull on the handlebar. Do not passively lean on the bar. Be active when you ride. No need to weight the bar more than you would riding a unicycle. In some control situations you might load the handlebar but that is always short term.
It is not what you ride. It is how you ride.
I have been recommending the above for decades and then had a wrist injury. Doctor knew I was a cyclist, told me no bikes for a year or a certainty of meeting the hand surgeon. Telling me not to ride is like telling me not to breathe. I rode daily, paying more attention than usual to pulling on the bar. Had the one year followup and doc told me OK to ride again. It is always OK to ride.
#25
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 14,949
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6177 Post(s)
Liked 4,794 Times
in
3,306 Posts
Having the wrong width bars for many different types might cause one to have very bent or otherwise incorrect hand/wrist position that is not a somewhat neutral position. The 42 cm wide bars on my new bike were making it difficult to keep my wrists straight with my hands and forearms, so I changed to 38 cm wide drops and haven't had an issue with that since.
In the days prior to STI's... which for me was 2016, I'd ride frequently with my hands on the horizontal part of the drop bar and frequently would find my hands rotated down with the wrists very bent and getting sore. That's perhaps why I see no benefit for a flat bar on a bike intended to be ridden for several hours at a time.
In the days prior to STI's... which for me was 2016, I'd ride frequently with my hands on the horizontal part of the drop bar and frequently would find my hands rotated down with the wrists very bent and getting sore. That's perhaps why I see no benefit for a flat bar on a bike intended to be ridden for several hours at a time.