Retro roadies- old frames with STI's or Ergos
#7454
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#7459
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Location: Port Angeles, WA
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Bikes: A green one, "Ragleigh," or something.
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I agree. And I live by my word:
Yeah, it's just a lowly Trek 400, but it's got that orangey goodness thing going on. And a black seat post I added after taking the pic.
Yeah, it's just a lowly Trek 400, but it's got that orangey goodness thing going on. And a black seat post I added after taking the pic.
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● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
● 1971 Grandis SL ● 1972 Lambert Grand Prix frankenbike ● 1972 Raleigh Super Course fixie ● 1973 Nishiki Semi-Pro ● 1979 Motobecane Grand Jubile ●1980 Apollo "Legnano" ● 1984 Peugeot Vagabond ● 1985 Shogun Prairie Breaker ● 1986 Merckx Super Corsa ● 1987 Schwinn Tempo ● 1988 Schwinn Voyageur ● 1989 Bottechia Team ADR replica ● 1990 Cannondale ST600 ● 1993 Technium RT600 ● 1996 Kona Lava Dome ●
#7460
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Turned my Ken Legge from my single speed round town bike in to my winter road bike with a 5700 105 group, V-O Hammered Fenders, and my wife's wheels:
Singlespeed mode w/clubs for pitch 'n put friday.
Ken Legge Rain Bike
Ken Legge Rain Bike
Rides well this way. Incredible amount of toe overlap but has a lively feel, particularly for a bike with clearance for fenders (just). I'm a bit suspicious that the fork is bent but can't see any indications of it. Maybe Ken just likes a lively bike? White Flite, 46cm Noodles and 90mm quill stem are on their way for looks and fit, mid-reach dual pivots are likely as well, the 80's (?) 600 callipers aren't the strongest brakes I've ever used...
Singlespeed mode w/clubs for pitch 'n put friday.
Ken Legge Rain Bike
Ken Legge Rain Bike
Rides well this way. Incredible amount of toe overlap but has a lively feel, particularly for a bike with clearance for fenders (just). I'm a bit suspicious that the fork is bent but can't see any indications of it. Maybe Ken just likes a lively bike? White Flite, 46cm Noodles and 90mm quill stem are on their way for looks and fit, mid-reach dual pivots are likely as well, the 80's (?) 600 callipers aren't the strongest brakes I've ever used...
Last edited by tashi; 10-02-19 at 02:55 PM.
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#7461
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I am wanting to purchase a groupset to update my bike to modern. What should I look for to make sure I have the least amount of issues possible as far as compatibility?
#7463
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Main thing you will need to check is that you can run the cassette size (9, 10, 11, 12 speed) you want to use on the wheels you have, or be willing to replace the wheels as well.
#7464
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If I determine I can get a 9 speed on my current wheel, with the modern groupset how do I know it's a 9 speed?
#7466
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
#7467
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I'm almost afraid to open this thread anymore. The bikes are so hot, it might burn my eyes looking at them!
#7468
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Bikes: 1991 Schwinn 354, 1988 Schwinn Circuit, 1988 Schwinn Premis, 1987 Schwinn Tempo, 1987 Schwinn Super Sport, 1983 Schwinn Super Sport Custom, 1980 Schwinn Voyageur 11.8, 1974 Schwinn Sports Tourer and 2017 Niner RIP RDO
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#7469
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Bikes: 1986 KHS Fiero, 1989 Trek 950, 1990 Trek 7000, 1991 Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo, 1992 Trek 1400, 1997 Cannondale CAD2 R300, 1998 Cannondale CAD2 R200, 2002 Marin San Rafael, 2006 Cannondale CAAD8 R1000, 2010 Performance Access XCL9R
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These orange bikes are driving me nuts!!! I'm considering refinishing my 33 year old KHS, and I may consider a darker orange...
#7470
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Bikes: 1977 Trek Tx700, 1978 Trek 510, 1969 Raleigh Competition, 1985 Univega Viva Sport, 1991 Bridgestone RB-1, 1986 Schwinn Voyageur, 1987 Bianchi Limited, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 2019 Surly Karate Monkey
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Bridgestone RB-1
I'm not finished but it's a decent start. I have some handlebars ordered and some Sram Apex 2x10 brake/shifters waiting. Going to put some cushy Lizard Skin 3.2 tape one once I get everything dialed in.
Don't judge too much it't not done. I'm not sure how long the stem should be so I'm just using what I have. I don't really like the white stem on this bike. Pretty sure I'll stick with black or silver components. Also the seatpost is super high. Just wanted to get it on. I have pedals on a different bike I robbed the saddle from. I'm toying with getting a quill to threadless adapter from Velo Orange. They seem to have a much nicer and longer one that I currently have on it. or
Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...rbon-road-fork
I was going to order it through QBP but looking at the Ritchey website, it says the same fork only has clearance for 25mm tires. But QBP says clearance for 28mm. Anyone have this fork?
I'm open to other suggestions if anyone knows of a different option.
Don't judge too much it't not done. I'm not sure how long the stem should be so I'm just using what I have. I don't really like the white stem on this bike. Pretty sure I'll stick with black or silver components. Also the seatpost is super high. Just wanted to get it on. I have pedals on a different bike I robbed the saddle from. I'm toying with getting a quill to threadless adapter from Velo Orange. They seem to have a much nicer and longer one that I currently have on it. or
Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...rbon-road-fork
I was going to order it through QBP but looking at the Ritchey website, it says the same fork only has clearance for 25mm tires. But QBP says clearance for 28mm. Anyone have this fork?
I'm open to other suggestions if anyone knows of a different option.
#7471
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@gil_00000 It's a great start, especially with an RB-1 frame. 62cm I presume. Tall bikes FTW. Looks like you've got the quill stem conversion going on this--I very much approve of this! I'd keep the original fork because it matches, is original, and looks great! Velo Orange sells a polished/shiny silver threadless stem that would match your (extremely nice) Dura Ace seatpost. All bikes take a little bit of sorting out, not only in fit but also in color composition (if one is so inclined). When I do quill stem conversions, my stems are almost always black, and I find a matching black seatpost to go with it. I'll match saddle to bar tape as well.
If you have a bike or bikes that you love the fit on, take measurements of various parts/distances and copy them over to the RB-1. Mock up the current stem, the bars, and the hoods how you want them and then compare. That will let you know what to change to get it to that set 'ideal' setup. Stems obviously have reach differences, but so do handlebars (almost no one mentions or discusses this critical component) and brake/shifters.
The SRAM stuff will look sharp on that bike (black on red is always a winner). I roll Shimano or Campy like the other eleventy billion people in the world, but do fancy myself a carbon Red crankset (a generation or few back)--all that to say it looks like you're confident in the groupset and it should look and work well.
Black seatpost and stem in combo with a white saddle and bar tape would look devastating, IMO. But that's just one combo. It's hard to lose.
If you have a bike or bikes that you love the fit on, take measurements of various parts/distances and copy them over to the RB-1. Mock up the current stem, the bars, and the hoods how you want them and then compare. That will let you know what to change to get it to that set 'ideal' setup. Stems obviously have reach differences, but so do handlebars (almost no one mentions or discusses this critical component) and brake/shifters.
The SRAM stuff will look sharp on that bike (black on red is always a winner). I roll Shimano or Campy like the other eleventy billion people in the world, but do fancy myself a carbon Red crankset (a generation or few back)--all that to say it looks like you're confident in the groupset and it should look and work well.
Black seatpost and stem in combo with a white saddle and bar tape would look devastating, IMO. But that's just one combo. It's hard to lose.
#7472
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I'm not finished but it's a decent start. I have some handlebars ordered and some Sram Apex 2x10 brake/shifters waiting. Going to put some cushy Lizard Skin 3.2 tape one once I get everything dialed in.
Don't judge too much it't not done. I'm not sure how long the stem should be so I'm just using what I have. I don't really like the white stem on this bike. Pretty sure I'll stick with black or silver components. Also the seatpost is super high. Just wanted to get it on. I have pedals on a different bike I robbed the saddle from. I'm toying with getting a quill to threadless adapter from Velo Orange. They seem to have a much nicer and longer one that I currently have on it. or
Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...rbon-road-fork
I was going to order it through QBP but looking at the Ritchey website, it says the same fork only has clearance for 25mm tires. But QBP says clearance for 28mm. Anyone have this fork?
I'm open to other suggestions if anyone knows of a different option.
Don't judge too much it't not done. I'm not sure how long the stem should be so I'm just using what I have. I don't really like the white stem on this bike. Pretty sure I'll stick with black or silver components. Also the seatpost is super high. Just wanted to get it on. I have pedals on a different bike I robbed the saddle from. I'm toying with getting a quill to threadless adapter from Velo Orange. They seem to have a much nicer and longer one that I currently have on it. or
Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/us_en/bi...rbon-road-fork
I was going to order it through QBP but looking at the Ritchey website, it says the same fork only has clearance for 25mm tires. But QBP says clearance for 28mm. Anyone have this fork?
I'm open to other suggestions if anyone knows of a different option.
If you're convinced you want to try carbon, I've got an older Kestrel fork that might work for you. It was off of a 60cm Paramount, so we'd have to check the steerer tube length if your Bridgestone is indeed 62cm. I think my local bike co-op also has a Time or Look 1" threadless carbon fork with alloy steerer, too; I'd have to check the length.
If yours is 62cm, it's one I'd be interested in if you ever decide to move it along.
#7473
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I'm toying with getting a quill to threadless adapter from Velo Orange. They seem to have a much nicer and longer one that I currently have on it. or
Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
Does anyone have experience with 1" threadless carbon forks? Wondering specifically about the Ritchey 1" threadless carbon fork with aluminum steertube.
But I just hate the look of quill adapters and modern stems on retro race frames.
Oh, and Brooks saddles. :/
#7474
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Bikes: 1977 Trek Tx700, 1978 Trek 510, 1969 Raleigh Competition, 1985 Univega Viva Sport, 1991 Bridgestone RB-1, 1986 Schwinn Voyageur, 1987 Bianchi Limited, 1986 Trek 400 Elance, 2019 Surly Karate Monkey
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It it, of course, your bike and you're welcome to do with it what you want to -- but I'd stick with the original Bridgestone steel fork. I think that year was made with Ishiwata 019 tubing in the fork, which should give a nice flex to absorb bumps from the road. The '91 model should easily fit 28's, and possibly even a touch larger. I've heard rumors of 28's on truly wide rims fitting (where the tire ends up a true 31-32mm in width).
If you're convinced you want to try carbon, I've got an older Kestrel fork that might work for you. It was off of a 60cm Paramount, so we'd have to check the steerer tube length if your Bridgestone is indeed 62cm. I think my local bike co-op also has a Time or Look 1" threadless carbon fork with alloy steerer, too; I'd have to check the length.
If yours is 62cm, it's one I'd be interested in if you ever decide to move it along.
If you're convinced you want to try carbon, I've got an older Kestrel fork that might work for you. It was off of a 60cm Paramount, so we'd have to check the steerer tube length if your Bridgestone is indeed 62cm. I think my local bike co-op also has a Time or Look 1" threadless carbon fork with alloy steerer, too; I'd have to check the length.
If yours is 62cm, it's one I'd be interested in if you ever decide to move it along.
You are correct about 28mm tires fitting. They're tight but they fit. The brakes I have on there currently make it a tighter fit than the fork.
You are also correct about the Ishiwata tubing for the fork.
I got the Seam Apex because I was going to create a touring bike with new components but the frame was fighting me with the 27" to 700c conversion and the canti brakes. 10 speed Sram is the last (unless I'm mistaken) components where road and mountain shifters are compatible. I was going to get Apex front derailleur and shifters going with a mountain rear derailleur with a mountain cassette for easy loaded riding.