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[Brompton] Adding a front derailleur: Clamp?

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[Brompton] Adding a front derailleur: Clamp?

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Old 10-21-16, 01:01 PM
  #26  
fietsbob
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Of course Da Hon folds to the left, away from the drive train , Brompton Covers it with the front wheel..

And OP did Buy a Light aluminum Piece Made for The Da Hon Bikes and put it on a Brompton.
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Old 10-21-16, 04:37 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by badmother
.. or break the derailer bottom....

Do`nt ask me how I know this..
Bummer.

BTW, the "nasty woman" blurb cracks me up. FWIW, this election cycle has made me revisit a few priors regarding sexism and racism in the US.
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Old 10-21-16, 05:19 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
mine came thru the original Brompton dealer in the US, Fold a Bikes, in Palo Alto Cal. he has since retired , selling the house probably gave him a fortune, given the real estate bubble in that area..
Channell Wasson's clamp is no longer available, unlike LitePro's, which is. Pick your poison.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/nwben/...impmybrompton/
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Old 10-22-16, 01:36 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
Bummer.

BTW, the "nasty woman" blurb cracks me up. FWIW, this election cycle has made me revisit a few priors regarding sexism and racism in the US.
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Old 10-22-16, 03:38 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
Removing the bottom of the cage certainly looks important given where the chainring is in the photo relative to the derailer bottom. Without removing it, the chain would be hanging on it. A "fast" fold would probably bend the derailer or mount over time.
The LBS where I bought the Tiagra doesn't recommend cutting off the derailleur cage, although it's been done:
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Old 10-22-16, 10:26 AM
  #31  
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Any How I Got Mine from Channell. several Years ago , then went with the Mountain Drive, Instead On my Brommy.
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Old 10-22-16, 11:54 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by invisiblehand
Bummer.

BTW, the "nasty woman" blurb cracks me up. FWIW, this election cycle has made me revisit a few priors regarding sexism and racism in the US.
i wonder what you meant by this.
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Old 10-22-16, 11:56 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by badmother
i've never thought of you as a nasty woman. that's terrible.
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Old 10-22-16, 02:00 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by smallwheeler
i've never thought of you as a nasty woman. that's terrible.
Oh, but I am baaad

Good girls can go to heaven but bad girls can go wherever they want, did you not know??

Not going anywhere. Staying home and deciding what bikes get studded tyres this winter. First snow came today..
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Old 10-22-16, 02:13 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Any How I Got Mine from Channell. several Years ago , then went with the Mountain Drive, Instead On my Brommy.
The FD is a cheaper option, although the SpeedDrive is nicer:Total ≈ €150

SpeedDrive licensed to ATS : £230 + shipping ≈ £250/€280
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Old 10-22-16, 03:14 PM
  #36  
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Mountain drive (mine) is a Reduction gear (130-54) the Speed drive 110 is an overdrive 34-'54',

but the frame BB edges must be Chamfered That is where the torque transfer is..
and So you need the shop tool facing cutter.
.(in France shopt that used to set Up Mavic equipped bikes needed one for that company's BB installations)

The Mk4 BB edges are somewhat faced with a Bit of a Taper , just not enough for the needed grip of the SD installation.

because of the Torque transfer needing to be More solid, the B version MD has a Knob sitting on top of the Frame
behind the BB where the rear Fold Pivot is, .. on the end of a Lever .
so It turned out to be more User Installable . on my Mk 3 & moved to My Mk4.

[if you got the version for other bikes that torque arm has a bolt hole and you wrap a coaster Brake type strap around the right chainstay. ]

Of course the big difference between a derailleur and an Internal gear is shifting, you cannot push a chain off a sprocket while you are stopped .




'/,

Last edited by fietsbob; 10-22-16 at 03:18 PM.
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Old 10-24-16, 10:01 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by smallwheeler
i wonder what you meant by this.
I assume "Mr T" is Trump from badmother's signature.

As you know, I'm an economist. I am pretty familiar with research on race-ethnicity/sex/age wage and income discrimination literature. Long story short, I've revisited some of my conclusions from that literature as a consequence of the present election.

Anyway, this is the wrong forum for this.
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Old 10-24-16, 11:05 AM
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There is the Actor that starred in the A Team . had quite a Career in "the Business", as my LA friends call it..

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mr._T https://www.imdb.com/name/nm0001558/
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Old 10-24-16, 12:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Mountain drive (mine) is a Reduction gear (130-54) the Speed drive 110 is an overdrive 34-'54',

but the frame BB edges must be Chamfered That is where the torque transfer is..
It's no longer the case for the SpeedDrive sold under license by ATS from Taiwan:

Welcome to ATS

https://bikegang.ecwid.com/#!/Brompt...ATS/p/60194073

In terms of price, a SpeedDrive comes between a front derailleur and a Alfine/Rohloff built by Kinetics.
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Old 10-25-16, 11:52 AM
  #40  
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Quote your Link :
Milling cutter (A)
- Chamfering the bottom bracket, for cone installation required
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Old 10-25-16, 12:01 PM
  #41  
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NB Overdrive gear, the torque in the Gear train from the planetary gear is just pushing against air resistance

since you kick it in to Go Faster..

The High speed Drive (non Standard splined vs 5 bolt chainrings) is a 2.5X overdrive

the 2.5 reduction gear needs a more rigid torque transfer because the resistance Is Gravity.
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Old 10-25-16, 02:20 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
There is the Actor that starred in the A Team . had quite a Career in "the Business", as my LA friends call it.
Clubber Lang!
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Old 10-25-16, 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by fietsbob
Quote your Link :
"Brompton New Non-Chamfer BB Shell ATS Speed drive Gearing System"
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Old 10-25-16, 03:02 PM
  #44  
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Hamster wheel continues
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Old 11-05-16, 02:18 PM
  #45  
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Also works with LitePro's P clamp + derailleur kit.
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Old 01-07-21, 04:15 PM
  #46  
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Since it's supposed to be a sturdier alternative, I got a B-series LitePro clamp, and noticed that the part where the derailleur is attached sits further out than a K-series: At rest, ie. on the smaller chainring, a LitePro two-speed derailleur sits above the outer chairing.

Can someone confirm? And in that case, what two-speed derailleur would work with a B-series clamp on a Brompton?



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Old 01-07-21, 05:50 PM
  #47  
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An important factor limiting the front derailleur operation is of the cage coming close to the seat tube and the derailleur mount itself. When the mounting point is above the band around the seat tube, the cage hits the band. When the point is near the band, the cage can go under the band, closer to the tube. For the K-Series Lightpro you have a proximity window to the seat tube, when you put the mounting point at the very top of the holding finger, as in your photo. However, then the torque bending the finger ends up being the highest then. Also the window narrows and maybe disappears if you get the angle right in the vertical plane for the derailleur - different for Brompton than Dahon. Litepro has a new edition of the mount for K Series, with a stronger finger, but that finger is pretty much free to rotate in the azimuth - no clue here why they mass manufacture flawed designs. In B Series, the mounting tab is presumably secured to the band with one screw. You need to add a second screw and secure both with threadlocker.

As to the specific derailleur, I got a used 105 off Ebay. Ultegra also worked in my memory. Given the challenging geometry and large difference in ring sizes I wanted, I was looking for a long steel cage that could be deformed. To get the angle right, you will need to get the Sram asymmetric washer. You will also need to push the bottom bracket axle out on the drive side, by whatever means, longer axle and/or spacers. For my 3 rings, I use a Suntour derailleur as I found their derailleurs to be slimmer allowing for a better fit against the seat tube.

Last edited by 2_i; 01-07-21 at 07:10 PM. Reason: 105
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Old 01-07-21, 07:48 PM
  #48  
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would like to know this as well...
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Old 01-09-21, 08:23 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by 2_i
Litepro has a new edition of the mount for K Series, with a stronger finger, but that finger is pretty much free to rotate in the azimuth - no clue here why they mass manufacture flawed designs
Thanks much. From a picture, is there a way to tell what K clamp it is (generation 1/2)?

So you used a B clamp + Shimano 105 for a double,and a B + Suntour for a triple?

Indeed, the K clamp I've been using for years with a Shimano Tiagra derailleur is slightly bent outwards, but it's working fine. At worst, you can slide a ziptie through the window:

Last edited by Winfried; 01-09-21 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 01-09-21, 02:42 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Winfried
From a picture, is there a way to tell what K clamp it is (generation 1/2)?
Below is a photo of 4 adapters. From left to right, they are the earlier Litepro, the more recent Litepro, Ridea and CM Wasson. Then there is Litepro B-Series with modified Suntour triple mounted. The earlier Litepro got bent and straightened several time as its holding finger is too feeble. The second has a more sturdy finger, like in the cheap, common, no-name adapter with a more coarse band, not shown here. The problem is that the finger is secured with just one bolts and is prevented from rotating with a small tab sticking out, that does not fit well and that will be sheared off in no time. The Ridea has a shorter sturdier finger, but the mounting point gets shifted farther away from the seat tube. CM Wasson is sturdy, but is basically overbuilt and heavy. The best for the purpose is the Litepro for Birdy.

Originally Posted by Winfried
So you used a B clamp + Shimano 105 for a double,and a B + Suntour for a triple?
I used the B-Series both with double and triple. With double there is though more flexibility and the cheap adapter, not shown, also worked.



4 adapters: 2 x Litepro, Ridea, CM Wasson


Litepro f/Birdy w/triple Suntour. The chain is on the smallest ring in the photo.
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