Regina freewheels ranking, was Oro the best?
10-20-20, 03:17 PM
#26
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Not that I am an expert by any means, but I would put the CX-s against most of the Japanese freewheels from the same rough period...And I love the Sun Tour range. That was probably the best of the Regina products...America, in my opinion, a bit less so, but they were trying for something different with that one.
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1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
10-20-20, 06:40 PM
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Well, the bike arrived intact without my wife noticing and I took it right away to my LBS for unpacking, re-assembly, and tuning. Looked pretty pristine from what I could see when I peeked in the box. The one wheel that I pulled out was a beautiful Martano (wing decal) with what looks like the original Clement tire showing very little wear. I’d like to learn as much as possible about this bike - I’ll try to boost my post count so I can upload a bunch of photos in a new thread when I get it home. Thanks for sharing the collective wisdom - impressive group of experts here!
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10-20-20, 06:55 PM
#28
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My view on the matter is to NEVER assume the mechanic who last did the major assembly knew or cared.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
10-20-20, 06:55 PM
#29
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An off-topic question re early CA Masis. In addition to the serial number and size stamping on the bottom bracket, I noticed +CF+ stamped next the M cut-out. Anyone know what that means?
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10-20-20, 07:04 PM
#30
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My view on the matter is to NEVER assume the mechanic who last did the major assembly knew or cared.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
Hubs, bottom bracket, pedals, jockey wheels should be all be repacked.
You might get away with the headset, but best to do that too.
Every bike I purchased and took apart, had a "surprise". some were component fatal, some not.
If you are not fully "tooled' up or have the mechanical experience, seek out a vintage aware mechanic.
__________________
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
10-20-20, 08:32 PM
#31
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As long as we're on the subject I will put this here for posterity. Someone may find it useful in the future.
Brent
Brent
10-21-20, 10:40 AM
#32
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The casting house Georg Fischer
Still in business. I do not think they do bike components any more.
Depending on the depth in the casting and the amount of file effort, it goes from fully visible to missing.
10-21-20, 11:46 AM
#33
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this thread went completely off topic! the question was what was the best Regina freewheel not if you liked them!
I think think the answer is America, why else would they have marketed them in nice wooden boxes?
my '68 Masi Special sports a Mallaird 700 Corse freewheel (no wobble and a very precision sounding clack (no slipping ever)
and a Regina Record chain (lower plate height gives a more elegant look plus it shifts smoother and it looks COOL)
I think think the answer is America, why else would they have marketed them in nice wooden boxes?
my '68 Masi Special sports a Mallaird 700 Corse freewheel (no wobble and a very precision sounding clack (no slipping ever)
and a Regina Record chain (lower plate height gives a more elegant look plus it shifts smoother and it looks COOL)
10-21-20, 12:00 PM
#34
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^^^ So Atoms were a buck more than Reginas? 
I liked Atom freewheels too.
As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
I liked Atom freewheels too.As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 10-21-20 at 12:04 PM.
10-21-20, 05:33 PM
#35
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^^^ So Atoms were a buck more than Reginas? I liked Atom freewheels too.
As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
I liked Atom freewheels too.As an aside, my favorite vintage freewheel was the Cyclo Pans kit.
BTW, personally I'd go max 26T for good shifting. Though you could make it work with 28, it won't be optimal IMO.
Maybe so, but it's a zombie thread.
When it was awoken in post 20, the new question was what was most appropriate for the guy's '74 Masi.
Maillard had a good concept with the 700 freewheel kit, one or two threaded cogs and the rest slid on. Good in concept, but took too much time.
There was another racer lazy aspect, always best to set up the race and training wheels with the same brand/model of freewheel, no derailleur adjustment required.
That is if the mechanic double checked that the hub spacing was on the various wheels was uniform. Campagnolo made spacers in .5, 1.0 mm thickness if one needed.
Guys would have a training freewheel and a racing freewheel, or just swap out to race wheels.
10-21-20, 07:22 PM
#36
Senior Member
As to Campagnolo compatibility-
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
10-21-20, 09:30 PM
#37
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I actually like my Maillard and Maillard/Sachs Freewheels much more than my Reginas.
They are not really that bad, but, the only freewheel I ever had to fix because of bad internal tolerances between the inner and outer bodies was a Regina freewheel (I think it was a CX, IIRC.) that was knocking on me. Never had such ever happen with my other brand freewheels.
What also irritates me with Regina freewheels is, they all seem to really get stuck tight (Even if I greased the freewheel and rear hub threads) on to my hubs, requiring a whole lot of effort to take off my hubs. I actually broke one of my chain whips doing so, some years ago. First time it ever happened to me.
They are not really that bad, but, the only freewheel I ever had to fix because of bad internal tolerances between the inner and outer bodies was a Regina freewheel (I think it was a CX, IIRC.) that was knocking on me. Never had such ever happen with my other brand freewheels.
What also irritates me with Regina freewheels is, they all seem to really get stuck tight (Even if I greased the freewheel and rear hub threads) on to my hubs, requiring a whole lot of effort to take off my hubs. I actually broke one of my chain whips doing so, some years ago. First time it ever happened to me.
Last edited by Chombi1; 10-22-20 at 01:26 PM.
10-22-20, 06:33 AM
#38
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Having just serviced a Regina 5 speed Oro with buggered removal notches, I'd say my favorite two notch Regina is either a 
Suntour Perfect or ProCompe 5 speed. 
Jus' sayin'.
Suntour Perfect or ProCompe 5 speed. Jus' sayin'.
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Enjoying the GA coast all year long!
Thanks for visiting my website: www.freewheelspa.com
10-22-20, 07:35 AM
#39
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
10-22-20, 08:40 AM
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A little update on that Regina extra you built for my ItalVega , it is still working flawlessly and the "click" is music to my ears. The one you did for my daughter's Raleigh is also working very well. I also like SunTour Perfect or Winner, and Shimano(early) freewheels . I have a removal tool for the Regina that keeps the slots intact when removing. It employs a threaded retainer that accepts the skewer and keeps it snug when in the vise . Unfortunately most of the Regina FW's I have seen have buggered up slots and that can be a problem.
10-22-20, 08:44 AM
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10-22-20, 12:31 PM
#42
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As to Campagnolo compatibility-
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
If original hubs, the area between the threads and the flange will be blank
one groove, English threading
two, French threading ( most often )
if later the hub will have the thread type marked
Regina freewheels- blank back side Italian, one groove, English or small F.1 French - two grooves OR a small rectangular punch press mark. Atom did the same for a time.
all part of the secret Vintage code.
English thread Record hub example:
10-22-20, 02:00 PM
#43
Junior Member
Well, the bike arrived intact without my wife noticing and I took it right away to my LBS for unpacking, re-assembly, and tuning. Looked pretty pristine from what I could see when I peeked in the box. The one wheel that I pulled out was a beautiful Martano (wing decal) with what looks like the original Clement tire showing very little wear. I’d like to learn as much as possible about this bike - I’ll try to boost my post count so I can upload a bunch of photos in a new thread when I get it home. Thanks for sharing the collective wisdom - impressive group of experts here!
10-22-20, 02:15 PM
#44
Senior Member
Oftentimes if a Regina freewheel is really tight it's because it is an Italian threaded freewheel on an English threaded hub. Not always, but often.
Freewheel threads should always be very well greased. Use teflon if you have it.
AFA the mangled up two notches, that is caused by improper removal technique 99% of the time. Two notch freewheels of all types can be removed without mangling, if care is taken.* The splined bodies are more tolerant, but less convenient since the outer hub locknut usually needs to be taken off, unless you still have an old Phil spline tool. Mine disappeared somewhere along the line...
Downside of the Phil tools is they usually failed after a while, being so thin-walled in order to fit between the locknut and freewheel body.
*I realize that doesn't do anyone much good now, 30-40+ years later, when many of the remaining vintage freewheels are mangled.
Freewheel threads should always be very well greased. Use teflon if you have it.
AFA the mangled up two notches, that is caused by improper removal technique 99% of the time. Two notch freewheels of all types can be removed without mangling, if care is taken.* The splined bodies are more tolerant, but less convenient since the outer hub locknut usually needs to be taken off, unless you still have an old Phil spline tool. Mine disappeared somewhere along the line...
Downside of the Phil tools is they usually failed after a while, being so thin-walled in order to fit between the locknut and freewheel body.*I realize that doesn't do anyone much good now, 30-40+ years later, when many of the remaining vintage freewheels are mangled.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 10-22-20 at 02:26 PM.
10-22-20, 04:25 PM
#45
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This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
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Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
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Last edited by majmt; 10-22-20 at 04:28 PM.
10-22-20, 04:41 PM
#46
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Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that I do agree that the sound of the Regina is really sweet.
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Montana, where men are men and sheep are lying little tramps.
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10-23-20, 03:43 AM
#47
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I wish I could post a few photos but I’m still short on my post count after seven years. When I make it to 10 posts, I’ll put up some photos of the bike in a new thread. There are so many knowledgable members here that I would really love to hear their informed input.
This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
This bike was not ridden very much or very hard at all. Pretty much all original early ‘74 issue and sounds (and looks) like it was always stored inside. I want to build up a new set of wheels and keep the originals in their current condition. It’s interesting that it has a Regina Extra 14-28T freewheel and a Sidis chain although it sounds like it should have been delivered with Everest. So, a question for all, what might be a good wheel build to get this on the road next spring? If I understand correctly for the Regina line, the best options would be the CX or America or anything with an S. We already have snow on the ground so I’m in no hurry to get on it. And I don’t plan to spank it when I do get it out. I’m hoping to come up with something of the appropriate vintage or reliably modern with a vintage look and feel. Regina, Everest, SunTour, tubular or clincher - I’m willing to go any way. I just want to do it right so any ideas would be appreciated.
04-08-24, 10:55 PM
#48
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Do Regina America cogs with three splines fit on Sachs freewheels? I agree that Sachs freewheels are excellent and would like another source for compatible cogs. I have already found that certain Shimano Uniglide freewheel cogs fit.
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