thook

yay!! i've successfully managed to stretch my bike budget around lately enough so that a big wish of mine came to pass; a new to me/used fork for the super le tour!! a nice tange champion with a nice sloping crown...like this

https://live.staticflickr.com/3101/2...18d20c9c_b.jpg

ever since i got the super i never liked the original fork and the way it was raked ....having a bit of a kink to an otherwise could-be smooth transition. nothing graceful about it my eyes. even the lowly le tour has a nicer curvature. anyway, the new fork and the frame color don't match and so i'm planning to repaint diy. however, before doing so, i'm taking time to research brands that give best results so it will hopefully look better than just a rattle can job. but, my other consideration is what to do about the decals. i haven't been able to find exact replacements for the past few months, so i'm wondering if there's a good way to feather around the originals so there's not that unsightly edge from taping them off. is it possible? anyone done that?

3alarmer 

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...no, I have never seen this done successfully.

What you might try is to carefully mask off the original decals when you do the color coat, then unmask them and cover the whole thing using one of the urethane clear coat products, which go on pretty thickly, in order to flow and achieve a high gloss finish. I have pretty much gotten over the whole "decals have an uneven line from the paint" business, because most of what I repaint is done with vinyl reproductions. I always have a line, and it doesn't bother me under the clear coat urethane.

thook

well, that just might work. the paint on the frame is in only "fair" condition. there's some surface rust, but that's concentrated mainly around the bottom bracket and a couple of lugs. otherwise, there's some pin sized pitting (a lot on the fork!!) sparsely scattered on the tubes and the paint's simply just dull from oxidizing. iow's maybe a light color passes to cover pitting and enliven the overall dullness and then concentrate heavier passes in the rustier areas. and, of course, then do as you suggest with the clear to really get the shine. sound about right?

3alarmer 

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...that's probably about what I would do if I absolutely could not get decals. Color matching can be a real PIA when you are trying to spot paint unless you paint an entire frame tube, or maybe the stays. So if I can, if I'm painting something over the original paint (assuming it is still pretty soundly attached ...most are). It is inevitably simpler to just sand off the original decals, rough everything, and then spray the whole frame. Masking can be quite tedious, depending on how much color shows through the decals.

But yes, get the color and labeling to your satisfaction, then clear over everything with something like Spraymax 2K clear is what I do now, mostly.

I would probably sand the fork separately, and maybe use a hi build auto primer product for the pitting. I can live without fork decals, assuming any are present. Then clear coat and as a final step, the same can of urethane paints both frame and fork.

randyjawa 

I did not remove the original decals on this old Torpado - "as found"...


..."as built"...


Rather than destroy the original art, I removed the paint right up to the decal. There was no need to feather paint or anything like that, Of course, there was no need for any paint since the entire frame was polished chrome. That said, I see no reason why one could not do the same thing with a painted bike.

I would remove all of the unwanted paint and use great care near decal edges. Then, I would use liquid latex to mask the decal (bottle with black top). This stuff is weird to use but works great...


Especially on intricate masking chores, such as the chrome lugs on this old German road bike...


As for no line left or even surface, this works reasonably well. The paint will meet the edge of the liquid mask, filling the seam. Then, assuming a product is safe to use over the decals, clear coat the entire frame. Why a clear that is safe to use? Some clears are not compatible with the ink used to color decals and/or stickers. Bleeding can result of the ink can result and make the whole effort a do it again thing.

Not sure if that is at all helpful but best of luck with the project.

dweenk

You can do it. First prep the very clean frame - maybe a little wet sand avoiding the decals. Then fill in chipped spots with liquid primer and paint. When the filled spots are dry, wet sand those down to remove ridges. Carefully mask the decals and spray the frame with an air brush if you have one(and know how to use it) or a rattle can. Wait for it to cure and that is long past when it feels dry. Finally use a polishing compound to blend the repainted areas near the decals.

repechage

I have, but done by Brian Baylis.
3M fineline masking tape. Scalpel, Luxo magnifier / Light. steady hand, patience, skill No Second chance.

thook

thank you kindly for the input. all very helpful

i want to keep this simple and easy as much as possible. so, i'll see what' materials can be acquired locally. as for air brush, i have compressor, but i'm not in position to buy and get fancy with a sprayer.

on that note, the frame is gunmetal gray. apparently an easy color in rattle can to acquire in various brands and similar enough shades. i saw some metallic....which might be nice, but the gray seems dark. hmmmm.... at any rate, plenty enough auto enamel grade selections without being pricey. i gather auto grade to be the durable stuff?? and, use gray primer (for chips) i assume?

Slightspeed

I have an opposite problem. I can live with the "patina" paint on my '78 Super Course, but the decals are trashed. How can I remove the old decals to apply new ones, without a double image if the new decal fit is off? The down tube "Raleigh" and seat tube stripes are especially bad (doesn't look that bad in picture). I don't want to damage what paint is left.

thook

light passes with a heat gun on low? maybe even a hair dryer

3alarmer 

...what you use for a color coat, even if you use auto paints, will not be all that durable if you don't clear coat it with urethane of some kind. There are a couple of colors available in spray cans that are 2 part paints that you mix in the can by puncturing an internal compartment, then shaking for a couple of minutes. the pot life is like 24-48 hours, then it hardens in the can.

You won't get the depth and gloss you get with a clear coat, but they work well. I think there's a beige primer, and a Satin Black available...not sure what else.

If you do use a final clear coat of urethane hardened paint, it doesn't much matter what you use for color, as long as it is well applied and firmly bonded to the surface.

markk900

Just a caution - did this on my Miele to remove the scratched and damaged decals and the new ones (NOS Miele) were slightly differently sized: after removing the old decals the paint fade was apparent and I didn't realize the slight difference in size until the decals were going on. I got used to it......

Oh and I used a hair dryer and patience......but the originals were vinyl. Not sure what the decals on yours are like.

thook

3alarmer i'm planning a clear coat ever since you suggested it. and, your saying there's different kinds of clear coat now? haha! well, i'll get the urethane and just concern myself with getting best match on color whether it's auto or otherwise. i mean, so long as it's for metal, eh.

yes...i do want a nice shine and depth.

a web image of the super le tour...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/s/...71015.JPG?dl=0

Insidious C. 

I've painted a couple frames where I left "panels" of original paint where the decals were.

thook

that's a very nice job!! i almost wish my decals were panels like that. it would sure make things easier.

3alarmer 

...there are all sorts of people making clear urethane 2 part paint finishes, that you have to mix and reduce, then spray with a compressor. You don't want any of those. Use this stuff, which will give you good results if you follow the mixing and spraying instructions. I'm saying that whatever paint you use for your color coat, as long as it's the right color to make you happy, doesn't much matter. You can use spray enamel from the Home Depot, or the many different auto paint enamel colors, or even hobby store spray enamels by Testors...they have some interesting paint effects available in metallic, pearlescent, and transparent.

My experience has led to pretty nice results with Urethane clear over any and all of those. Wear the best respirator mask you can afford to buy.

thook

3alarmer thanks once again for clarifying. i won't be able to start on this for a week or two. bike projects are best suited for the weekends right now and i haven't quite finished the current project (bontrager privateer). furthermore, the super is still intact, so gotta tear it down. i'm praying the bottom bracket will come out easy enough. i don't think it's ever come out judging by the looks.

btw, i'm not seeing any genuine pitting on the frame itself. the fork, though! maybe someone around here will want that since i have a new one on the way <<hint hint>> i mean, it's not bad bad, but it does need some work to look cosmetically good, again

Velo Mule

thook I would be interested in the fork. And I am not in a rush.

thook

noted!!