grant40

I noticed that the bottom headset cup on this Rollfast is not in all the way in and it us spinning around in the headtube. Should it be pressed all the way in or is there too much rust?

FBinNY 

Gravity alone, or combined with the impact forces from potholes would have seated this cup long ago (after the first few miles, if that long). So, it's safe to assume it's seated as far as it can go, and is bottoming on something internal, ie. the end of the reamed area in the head tube.

Unless, or even if doing other work, clean this up as well as possible, then use either paint or grease packed into the gap to prevent more rust.

FBinNY 

BTW- I missed the part about the cup being able to move (spin) in the frame. I suspect that this isn't the original cup, and someone replaced it with one intended to fit a smaller head tube ID. That space is likely why water was able to enter gap can cause corrosion.

So, you might want to pull the headset and check. then either shim this cup, or buy a new headset made for 1" standard "American" headtubes. If there's a internal shoulder because the tube wasn't reamed deep enough, you can safely grind a bit off the front of the pressed in section so it will now bottom.

maddog34

your bike is at least 50 years old... the bearings rusted to the Bearing cup.. someone twisted the bars and the cup broke loose from the frame instead of the bearing balls. not sure if the bearing balls have now came loose from the cup.

You NEED to REPLACE all that rusted scrap.

the Decal instead of a metal head badge says that the bike is a newer, younger, less DESIRABLE bike from that now defunct company....

if you want to save it, start by applying a few ounces of Kroil oil and then walk away for a couple of days... reapply kroil, walk away again... THEN try loosening everything.

if you refinish everything, then rechrome or replace all chrome parts with new parts, re[place All the bearings, Repaint it as it was when new, Replace all the decals with decent reproductions, replace the tires and tubes and rim strips.and rebuild everything else, you will have a bike worth about $250 but cost you somewhere near or over a grand.... if you could find anyone that shares your passion.

just a guess.... and all of this will be done to a 50+ year old frame with heavy rust, it appears. How good is your Health and dental insurance?

oh, and you'll need about $200 worth of special Bicycle Tools to do the work, depending on what the bike is equipped with now.

are the spokes all rusted up too?

Andrew R Stewart 

With the mild grade of steel that this bike is likely made from its no surprise that a sort of press fit cup would loosen up. Seen it often enough with BB and headsets on bikes with similar components and construction (can you say Huffy/Murray?). The loose cup no cost solution is to take your drift punch and tap a few flat spots about the circumference and reinstall the cup (after derusting it and the frame). But a loose cup won't be a big deal given the wide tolerances these types of bike work with. Andy

grumpus

The head tube has probably stretched - it takes a hammering if the bearings are a bit loose, and low grade steel will deform easily. So it's probably time for a new head tube.

Andrew R Stewart 

I assume you are joking? Andy

zandoval 

OK... Now this is beginning to take on the aspects of a real challenge. Replacing a head tube? I know it can be done... Sounds like fun!

Andrew R Stewart 

If grumpus wasn't joking I might suggest that at least one here has never done a tube replacement. Maybe two if you aren't joking too. Andy

grumpus

I suppose so, in as much as it's probably not worth doing unless you have a tame frame builder, but I don't know - is this some sort of vintage classic machine? And there may be other ways of mitigating the problem, assuming my diagnosis is correct - deform the head tube in a few places so it "fits where it touches". Or deposit a bead of braze/weld in the tube and grind/ream it back to dimension. Secure the cup with J-B Weld. They're all bodges but may be good enough; I epoxied the bottom bracket in my Holdsworth when the shell distorted (a known weakness apparently) and it lasted a couple of years before I had it properly fixed at considerable expense - I wouldn't have bothered but it needed some other work, and I'd built another commuter/touring bike so I didn't need it on the road.

Andrew R Stewart 

Well if this frame was in my shop I would just "toss" another head tube on it Andy (who really dislikes terms that dismiss the skills, time and tools to do repair jobs)

I have had this "just toss on a..." from customers way too many times over the years. Generally I just go with their flow but I have actually thrown a part (inner tube as example) at their bike in front of them with a smile. When the bike fails to catch the part I mention that their bike isn't playing nice and that I'll have to use actual tools). Rant over.

I addressed the repair method I have used many times in post #5.

dedhed

Doesn't matter, you can't touch that bike.

Andrew R Stewart 

Thankfully you are correct. Andy