What Sort of Gearing Works Best for your Needs?
#101
Senior Member
Right, different types of excersise will place emphasis on the two different types of muscle fibres. But both are involved.
Lately I've been focusing on a higher cadence, mainly due to wind everywhere I ride. So I'm sticking with the 40t chainring.
Im focusing on a cadence of around 75-80, which i take is still relatively low.
I'll try doing a 200m sprint and see how long it takes me just for fun 63rickert is it done on pavement? Or can I do it on a gravel 400m track?
I dont see much point in doing so, because the point of cycling is long distance endurance. But I do find myself using short bursts of energy often to keep up in traffic and what not.
Will have toget a video of me pedalling for you guys sometime soon.
Lately I've been focusing on a higher cadence, mainly due to wind everywhere I ride. So I'm sticking with the 40t chainring.
Im focusing on a cadence of around 75-80, which i take is still relatively low.
I'll try doing a 200m sprint and see how long it takes me just for fun 63rickert is it done on pavement? Or can I do it on a gravel 400m track?
I dont see much point in doing so, because the point of cycling is long distance endurance. But I do find myself using short bursts of energy often to keep up in traffic and what not.
Will have toget a video of me pedalling for you guys sometime soon.
Some here might remember the hillclimb course at Slatyfork. At top of main climb is a level ‘road’ which is rock outcropping and gravel. I did that at a steady 32mph, which would equate to about 14 seconds per 200 meters. Can’t even guess how long that section is, I was redlined, but longer than a sprint.
Long distance endurance is not the point of cycling. It is one thing you can do on a bike. Many things can be done on a bike.
#102
Junior Member
I set my bike up for loaded alpine touring 40 years ago. The same gearing was fine for hilly commuting, and now, on near-flatland, I still use bottom and top gears once a year on a windy day.
#103
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Right, different types of excersise will place emphasis on the two different types of muscle fibres. But both are involved.
Lately I've been focusing on a higher cadence, mainly due to wind everywhere I ride. So I'm sticking with the 40t chainring.
Im focusing on a cadence of around 75-80, which i take is still relatively low.
I'll try doing a 200m sprint and see how long it takes me just for fun 63rickert is it done on pavement? Or can I do it on a gravel 400m track?
I dont see much point in doing so, because the point of cycling is long distance endurance. But I do find myself using short bursts of energy often to keep up in traffic and what not.
Will have toget a video of me pedalling for you guys sometime soon.
Lately I've been focusing on a higher cadence, mainly due to wind everywhere I ride. So I'm sticking with the 40t chainring.
Im focusing on a cadence of around 75-80, which i take is still relatively low.
I'll try doing a 200m sprint and see how long it takes me just for fun 63rickert is it done on pavement? Or can I do it on a gravel 400m track?
I dont see much point in doing so, because the point of cycling is long distance endurance. But I do find myself using short bursts of energy often to keep up in traffic and what not.
Will have toget a video of me pedalling for you guys sometime soon.
And back when I was a Cat 5, I did plenty of 30 minute crit races. I don't think we covered "long distances."
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#104
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#105
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- mostly mountains w climbs ranging from 10min - 1.5 hr
- Specialized SWorks Tarmac
- Almost entirely up or down
- 52/36 - 10/32 12sp Campy Super Record
- only get into the 36-32 combo when the gradient is above 12% or so
- Feel like the spread between chainrings is big enough that there's little overlap on where I ride the chain on the cogs. If I'm on some terrain where I'm right in that overlap, I end up shifting the chainring back and forth a bit
Mtn
- entirely mountains
- Intense Tracer T275c
- Either up or down, w long (1-2.5hr climbs)
- 34 - 10/52 SRAM Eagle XX1
- only get into the 34 - 52 on the super steeps, like 18% +. I used to ride the same hills w a 34-42 combo, but I prefer a high cadence while climbing. The 52 doesn't work well for me on technical sections, as the amount of forward movement you get from half a pedal stroke is almost nothing, so I might have put a gear between the 52 and the next one down which is a 42
Last edited by stuff shredman; 11-30-20 at 03:14 PM. Reason: reformatting
#106
Junior Member
I'm old-school. My regular road bike is 11-speed. I run a 53/39T crankset with a 12/25T cassette in order to have a straight block that jumps only one tooth from cog to cog (12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25), in order to have the best fine-tuning for the cadence I want. My cruising speed is between 30 and 40 km/h. For example a cruising speed of 33 km/h at 90 RPM requires a 53/18 combination. And the only way to have an 18 is with the 12/25 cassette.
Longer hill near my home is a 3-km @ 8% which is totally fine on 39/25. Most hils are short, steep pitches.
Longer hill near my home is a 3-km @ 8% which is totally fine on 39/25. Most hils are short, steep pitches.
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#107
Senior Member
Thought this might make for some interesting conversation.. lets say you can spec your bike with any sort of ratios you want. What are you picking?
1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?
.
1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?
.
2 hybrid style Specialized Turbo Vado 4 SL e-bike
3. Frequent shallow grade hills
4. Stock 48t front, 11/42 Cassette
5. not sure of specific changes, but would like less low end and another high end gear as I never use the lowest speed and occasionally run out at the high end. Sometimes the shift to 5he highest gear is more of a jump - not as smooth as the other gear changes.
#108
Full Member
1. Paved
2. Carbon road bike
3. All hills (big ups, big downs, little flat)
4. 50/34, 11-28
5. I would keep the chainrings the same, but a closely spaced cassette with an extra bailout gear would be perfect (like a 14-30)
2. Carbon road bike
3. All hills (big ups, big downs, little flat)
4. 50/34, 11-28
5. I would keep the chainrings the same, but a closely spaced cassette with an extra bailout gear would be perfect (like a 14-30)
#109
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Pavement. Road bikes, last two are flat bar road bikes.
53/39 11-25 10spd
53/39 12-26 10 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
50/34 12-27 10 spd
50/34 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
50/24 12-25 10 spd
Not hard to find hills here but they aren't long climbs. If I'm not the first one up the hill, I'm pissed. And I like a narrow gear range.
53/39 11-25 10spd
53/39 12-26 10 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
50/34 12-27 10 spd
50/34 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
50/24 12-25 10 spd
Not hard to find hills here but they aren't long climbs. If I'm not the first one up the hill, I'm pissed. And I like a narrow gear range.
#110
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Thank you.
For me, the point of cycling (minus the fitness and commuting aspect) is maintaining a steady average cadence, whatever the terrain or your pace of choice may be. That could still use up your fast twitch fibres.
Doesn't change the fact that everybodys muscle structure is dispositioned with a different level of muscle fibres, and will choose to pedal at different cadences as such.
For me, the point of cycling (minus the fitness and commuting aspect) is maintaining a steady average cadence, whatever the terrain or your pace of choice may be. That could still use up your fast twitch fibres.
Doesn't change the fact that everybodys muscle structure is dispositioned with a different level of muscle fibres, and will choose to pedal at different cadences as such.
#111
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Anyone like having such a close ratio spacing on their road bike?
Literally 1 tooth count difference per cog. Its insane. Im sure it makes sense if you dont live in a hilly area though.
40t/34t being the lowest gear for me comes in super handy on a tough climb. I wouldn't want to have less gearing than that for hills.
How is it to have super close ratio spacing with 8,9,10,11 gears? I don't think that will work for everybody.
Literally 1 tooth count difference per cog. Its insane. Im sure it makes sense if you dont live in a hilly area though.
40t/34t being the lowest gear for me comes in super handy on a tough climb. I wouldn't want to have less gearing than that for hills.
How is it to have super close ratio spacing with 8,9,10,11 gears? I don't think that will work for everybody.
#112
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+1. My latest (cargo) bike adds a 22T to the front of that!! Nothing it can't climb, and it keeps up with the Hipsters (I'm 61) on the level. My road bike has 50/39 x 11-28 but I rarely take it to the big ring. I'm about to preach the gospel of the granny gear and warn those who will hear, about the evils of overgeared production roadbikes. They are a great evil loosed upon the land. Resist them with all thine resistance. When you are old enough to find the "Over Fifty" forum interesting you will see the sad, sad, testimonies of those who were rocking the 88" fixed gears in their mis-spent youth but now have no knee cartilage. A word to the wise is sufficient.
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#116
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#118
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#119
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Thought this might make for some interesting conversation.. lets say you can spec your bike with any sort of ratios you want. What are you picking?
1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?
- Mostly pavement, some gravel and dirt paths
- Road bike
- Mostly flat, some long hills, nothing crazy steep
- 40/52t front, 14-34t rear (2x5)
- 36/52t, 11-34t (2x8)
While my current gearing is totally sufficient for my needs and actually quite useful, I find myself being in top gear (52/14) all the time on flat terrain in non windy conditions. I'd like for slightly lower and slightly higher gearing on both ends of the spectrum. Something like 2x7 or 2x8 would offer some ideal spacing in terms of snatching through the gears while accelerating from a stand still.
Interestingly enough, I found a Biopace Mountain LX crankset made by shimano (28/38/48) . Never seen that sort of spacing before. Typically lower end mountain bikes come with 22/32/44. Woukd be interesting to give this unique ratio spread a try.
1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?
- Mostly pavement, some gravel and dirt paths
- Road bike
- Mostly flat, some long hills, nothing crazy steep
- 40/52t front, 14-34t rear (2x5)
- 36/52t, 11-34t (2x8)
While my current gearing is totally sufficient for my needs and actually quite useful, I find myself being in top gear (52/14) all the time on flat terrain in non windy conditions. I'd like for slightly lower and slightly higher gearing on both ends of the spectrum. Something like 2x7 or 2x8 would offer some ideal spacing in terms of snatching through the gears while accelerating from a stand still.
Interestingly enough, I found a Biopace Mountain LX crankset made by shimano (28/38/48) . Never seen that sort of spacing before. Typically lower end mountain bikes come with 22/32/44. Woukd be interesting to give this unique ratio spread a try.
#120
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I don't get the bouncing. Maybe tighten up the sprung seatpost? I use a sprung seatpost on my favorite touring bike but it doesn't flex unless I hit a bump. I liked a oval ring on the granny for awhile particularly when I hit really steep hills with all my gear. It seemed to hurry me through the non-power part of the stroke. Sprint training got me to 200 rpm and allowed me to dust some of the competition at the line 40 years ago. Now I couldn't get far without getting out of the saddle from time to time just to keep a reasonable cadence on the 42/23 low on my racing bike. I probably should go looking for a 13-26 freewheel. Yeah, I said freewheel.🤓
#121
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All my cassettes and cranks are stock.
Th Specialized is 52/36 with 11-30 I've climbed some longer passes and hills on it. Cayuse Pass and Sunrise Road.
The LeMond is 52/42/30 with 12-25 Same as above and also Doi Suthep in Thailand. Haven't tried Doi Inthanon yet. This bike lives in Thailand now.
The Fuji is 52/36 with 11-28 Haven't climbed any big or major hills. Mostly short steep hills.
I really like the 11-30 setup. So far I have been able to climb just about anything. If I were to switch out a cassette I would go with a 11-34. Ya know, just in case!
Th Specialized is 52/36 with 11-30 I've climbed some longer passes and hills on it. Cayuse Pass and Sunrise Road.
The LeMond is 52/42/30 with 12-25 Same as above and also Doi Suthep in Thailand. Haven't tried Doi Inthanon yet. This bike lives in Thailand now.
The Fuji is 52/36 with 11-28 Haven't climbed any big or major hills. Mostly short steep hills.
I really like the 11-30 setup. So far I have been able to climb just about anything. If I were to switch out a cassette I would go with a 11-34. Ya know, just in case!
#122
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Wow. A 34! That's pretty hard to find outside of a touring bike. I agree a 14 just doesn't do it. A change to a 13 doesn't seem like much but it does make a big difference. I typically run a 23 or 24 up front and get by with a 32 in back on my loaded touring bikes. I'm happy enough with a 48/13 on the high end. With the right tires you should be able to climb telephone poles with a 22/34. People with zip by you when walking though. I hate it when that happens! 🙄
I dont see anything wrong with the 14 gears. It works when you have this many teeth in the front chainring.. not only is the spacing in the freewheel improved, which helps for a smoother transition between ratios, but 14 is a more useful gear than 11 for the majority of average circumstances.
#123
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Does anyone here use those clip in pedals?
I've gradually increased my cycling cadence to around 84 RPM now. Changing the left crank arm back to 170 also seemed to help.
being able to lift one pedal up with your foot while pushing down with the other works noticeably more effective in a lower gear at a higher pedalling cadence. The Biopace crank seems a tiny bit pulsey with these clip in pedals though. I think it felt a bit better with round chainrings. I will maybe try to re orient the chainrings and see how that feels.
now I'm spinning faster at a lower gear and it feels great. I am curious to see how the gearing will change with larger crankarms.
I've gradually increased my cycling cadence to around 84 RPM now. Changing the left crank arm back to 170 also seemed to help.
being able to lift one pedal up with your foot while pushing down with the other works noticeably more effective in a lower gear at a higher pedalling cadence. The Biopace crank seems a tiny bit pulsey with these clip in pedals though. I think it felt a bit better with round chainrings. I will maybe try to re orient the chainrings and see how that feels.
now I'm spinning faster at a lower gear and it feels great. I am curious to see how the gearing will change with larger crankarms.
#124
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With the clip in pedals I notice the biopace cranks are particularly demanding with nailing your power stroke correctly and not overshoting the 6 o clock position.
I did try these pedals very briefly on a bike equipped with round chainrings and I think it felt a bit more natural.
I did try these pedals very briefly on a bike equipped with round chainrings and I think it felt a bit more natural.