Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > General Cycling Discussion
Reload this Page >

What Sort of Gearing Works Best for your Needs?

Notices
General Cycling Discussion Have a cycling related question or comment that doesn't fit in one of the other specialty forums? Drop on in and post in here! When possible, please select the forum above that most fits your post!

What Sort of Gearing Works Best for your Needs?

Old 11-30-20, 07:11 AM
  #101  
63rickert
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 2,068
Mentioned: 44 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1090 Post(s)
Liked 329 Times in 245 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Right, different types of excersise will place emphasis on the two different types of muscle fibres. But both are involved.

Lately I've been focusing on a higher cadence, mainly due to wind everywhere I ride. So I'm sticking with the 40t chainring.

Im focusing on a cadence of around 75-80, which i take is still relatively low.

I'll try doing a 200m sprint and see how long it takes me just for fun 63rickert is it done on pavement? Or can I do it on a gravel 400m track?

I dont see much point in doing so, because the point of cycling is long distance endurance. But I do find myself using short bursts of energy often to keep up in traffic and what not.

Will have toget a video of me pedalling for you guys sometime soon.
Gravel is various. It depends. If we are talking about a normal running track it should make little difference if you have appropriate tires. There could be some slippage on acceleration, you will know if that happens.

Some here might remember the hillclimb course at Slatyfork. At top of main climb is a level ‘road’ which is rock outcropping and gravel. I did that at a steady 32mph, which would equate to about 14 seconds per 200 meters. Can’t even guess how long that section is, I was redlined, but longer than a sprint.

Long distance endurance is not the point of cycling. It is one thing you can do on a bike. Many things can be done on a bike.
63rickert is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 12:10 PM
  #102  
TricycleTom
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Spiritwood, Saskatchewan
Posts: 139

Bikes: Jeunet 12, Car-Cycle X-4, Aerovironment Charger

Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 36 Post(s)
Liked 14 Times in 11 Posts
I set my bike up for loaded alpine touring 40 years ago. The same gearing was fine for hilly commuting, and now, on near-flatland, I still use bottom and top gears once a year on a windy day.
TricycleTom is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 12:30 PM
  #103  
Koyote
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 7,769
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6882 Post(s)
Liked 10,876 Times in 4,639 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Right, different types of excersise will place emphasis on the two different types of muscle fibres. But both are involved.

Lately I've been focusing on a higher cadence, mainly due to wind everywhere I ride. So I'm sticking with the 40t chainring.

Im focusing on a cadence of around 75-80, which i take is still relatively low.

I'll try doing a 200m sprint and see how long it takes me just for fun 63rickert is it done on pavement? Or can I do it on a gravel 400m track?

I dont see much point in doing so, because the point of cycling is long distance endurance. But I do find myself using short bursts of energy often to keep up in traffic and what not.

Will have toget a video of me pedalling for you guys sometime soon.
In track cycling, 4km is considered an endurance event.

And back when I was a Cat 5, I did plenty of 30 minute crit races. I don't think we covered "long distances."
Koyote is offline  
Likes For Koyote:
Old 11-30-20, 01:15 PM
  #104  
Maelochs
Senior Member
 
Maelochs's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 15,453

Bikes: 2015 Workswell 066, 2017 Workswell 093, 2014 Dawes Sheila, 1983 Cannondale 500, 1984 Raleigh Olympian, 2007 Cannondale Rize 4, 2017 Fuji Sportif 1 LE

Mentioned: 144 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7628 Post(s)
Liked 3,453 Times in 1,823 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
...... the point of cycling is long distance endurance.
The point of cycling is riding a bicycle.
Maelochs is offline  
Likes For Maelochs:
Old 11-30-20, 01:57 PM
  #105  
stuff shredman
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Pasadena, CA
Posts: 58

Bikes: 2020 S-Works Tarmac - Sagan Edition /// 2016 Intense Tracer T275C ///

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 28 Post(s)
Liked 53 Times in 28 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?
Road:
  1. mostly mountains w climbs ranging from 10min - 1.5 hr
  2. Specialized SWorks Tarmac
  3. Almost entirely up or down
  4. 52/36 - 10/32 12sp Campy Super Record
    1. only get into the 36-32 combo when the gradient is above 12% or so
  5. Feel like the spread between chainrings is big enough that there's little overlap on where I ride the chain on the cogs. If I'm on some terrain where I'm right in that overlap, I end up shifting the chainring back and forth a bit

Mtn
  1. entirely mountains
  2. Intense Tracer T275c
  3. Either up or down, w long (1-2.5hr climbs)
  4. 34 - 10/52 SRAM Eagle XX1
  5. only get into the 34 - 52 on the super steeps, like 18% +. I used to ride the same hills w a 34-42 combo, but I prefer a high cadence while climbing. The 52 doesn't work well for me on technical sections, as the amount of forward movement you get from half a pedal stroke is almost nothing, so I might have put a gear between the 52 and the next one down which is a 42

Last edited by stuff shredman; 11-30-20 at 03:14 PM. Reason: reformatting
stuff shredman is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 02:12 PM
  #106  
SpinnerPC
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Quebec
Posts: 22

Bikes: Giant Propel SRAM Red; Cannondale Tandem; TM6 TT bike; Marinoni vintage; Nashbar Fatbike; Schwinn training

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I'm old-school. My regular road bike is 11-speed. I run a 53/39T crankset with a 12/25T cassette in order to have a straight block that jumps only one tooth from cog to cog (12-13-14-15-16-17-18-19-21-23-25), in order to have the best fine-tuning for the cadence I want. My cruising speed is between 30 and 40 km/h. For example a cruising speed of 33 km/h at 90 RPM requires a 53/18 combination. And the only way to have an 18 is with the 12/25 cassette.
Longer hill near my home is a 3-km @ 8% which is totally fine on 39/25. Most hils are short, steep pitches.
SpinnerPC is offline  
Likes For SpinnerPC:
Old 11-30-20, 02:58 PM
  #107  
BEC111
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 98

Bikes: Specialized Turbo Vado SL

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 21 Post(s)
Liked 20 Times in 15 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Thought this might make for some interesting conversation.. lets say you can spec your bike with any sort of ratios you want. What are you picking?

1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?
.
1. Rolling hills and flats paved MUP and local paved streets
2 hybrid style Specialized Turbo Vado 4 SL e-bike
3. Frequent shallow grade hills
4. Stock 48t front, 11/42 Cassette
5. not sure of specific changes, but would like less low end and another high end gear as I never use the lowest speed and occasionally run out at the high end. Sometimes the shift to 5he highest gear is more of a jump - not as smooth as the other gear changes.
BEC111 is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 03:08 PM
  #108  
jp911
Full Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Bend
Posts: 242

Bikes: Trek Madone 5.2 Dura Ace, Niner RLT9 aluminum, Santa Cruz 5010 CC, Niner Air 9 rigid 29er, Trek Farley alloy

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 70 Post(s)
Liked 52 Times in 36 Posts
1. Paved
2. Carbon road bike
3. All hills (big ups, big downs, little flat)
4. 50/34, 11-28
5. I would keep the chainrings the same, but a closely spaced cassette with an extra bailout gear would be perfect (like a 14-30)
jp911 is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 06:36 PM
  #109  
bikejrff
Senior Member
 
bikejrff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Fort Wayne, IN
Posts: 464

Bikes: No. 22 Bicycle Great Divide, Lynskey R260, Salsa Colossal Ti, Litespeed T5, Lynskey Peloton, Bianchi Vigorelli, CAAD 10, Giant FastRoad CoMax 1, C-Dale Quick 1

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 50 Post(s)
Liked 36 Times in 18 Posts
Pavement. Road bikes, last two are flat bar road bikes.

53/39 11-25 10spd
53/39 12-26 10 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
52/36 12-25 11 spd
50/34 12-27 10 spd
50/34 12-25 11 spd

52/36 12-25 11 spd
50/24 12-25 10 spd

Not hard to find hills here but they aren't long climbs. If I'm not the first one up the hill, I'm pissed. And I like a narrow gear range.
bikejrff is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 07:02 PM
  #110  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Originally Posted by Maelochs
The point of cycling is riding a bicycle.
Thank you.

For me, the point of cycling (minus the fitness and commuting aspect) is maintaining a steady average cadence, whatever the terrain or your pace of choice may be. That could still use up your fast twitch fibres.

Doesn't change the fact that everybodys muscle structure is dispositioned with a different level of muscle fibres, and will choose to pedal at different cadences as such.
Moisture is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 07:04 PM
  #111  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Anyone like having such a close ratio spacing on their road bike?

Literally 1 tooth count difference per cog. Its insane. Im sure it makes sense if you dont live in a hilly area though.

40t/34t being the lowest gear for me comes in super handy on a tough climb. I wouldn't want to have less gearing than that for hills.

How is it to have super close ratio spacing with 8,9,10,11 gears? I don't think that will work for everybody.
Moisture is offline  
Old 11-30-20, 09:20 PM
  #112  
sewupnut
Senior Member
 
sewupnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mountains and Plains of Colorado
Posts: 241

Bikes: 2005 Seven Odonata (DuraAce /Reynolds),1983 Trek 950 (Mavic/Suntour/Regina), 1986 Stumpjumper Shimano/Suntour/Regina), 1986 MASI 3V, (Campy/Mavic/Regina) 1995 Schwinn LeTour (Suntour/Wienmann/Phil/Shimano/Regina): All Brooks Saddles

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Leisesturm
+1. My latest (cargo) bike adds a 22T to the front of that!! Nothing it can't climb, and it keeps up with the Hipsters (I'm 61) on the level. My road bike has 50/39 x 11-28 but I rarely take it to the big ring. I'm about to preach the gospel of the granny gear and warn those who will hear, about the evils of overgeared production roadbikes. They are a great evil loosed upon the land. Resist them with all thine resistance. When you are old enough to find the "Over Fifty" forum interesting you will see the sad, sad, testimonies of those who were rocking the 88" fixed gears in their mis-spent youth but now have no knee cartilage. A word to the wise is sufficient.
73 Myself and still push most hills in the large (53 or 50 depending upon the bike) chainring to keep the racing muscles. No knee problems in the 45 years I've competed. Also keeps you on the rivet.
sewupnut is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 06:27 AM
  #113  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Originally Posted by sewupnut
73 Myself and still push most hills in the large (53 or 50 depending upon the bike) chainring to keep the racing muscles. No knee problems in the 45 years I've competed. Also keeps you on the rivet.
Using which gear in the rear? Must not be a very steep hill
Moisture is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 11:39 AM
  #114  
tomato coupe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,880

Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3907 Post(s)
Liked 7,183 Times in 2,906 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Anyone like having such a close ratio spacing on their road bike? Literally 1 tooth count difference per cog.
I haven't seen a real corn cob cassette in a long time. Does anyone make an 11-21 11-spd or 12-21 10-spd cassette?
tomato coupe is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 11:45 AM
  #115  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
I haven't seen a real corn cob cassette in a long time. Does anyone make an 11-21 11-spd or 12-21 10-spd cassette?
I've seen a 13/19t 7 speed by suntour on ebay. Not sure how useful that would be.
Moisture is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 11:52 AM
  #116  
tomato coupe
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,880

Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey

Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3907 Post(s)
Liked 7,183 Times in 2,906 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
I've seen a 13/19t 7 speed by suntour on ebay. Not sure how useful that would be.
7-spd is more than 30 years old. It's not very relevant for a present-day discussion of gear spacing.
tomato coupe is offline  
Likes For tomato coupe:
Old 12-01-20, 11:55 AM
  #117  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Originally Posted by tomato coupe
7-spd is more than 30 years old. It's not very relevant for a present-day discussion of gear spacing.
I wouldn't say its irrelevant either.

Its a good amount of spacing for the vast majority of riding needs.
Moisture is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 12:04 PM
  #118  
sewupnut
Senior Member
 
sewupnut's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Mountains and Plains of Colorado
Posts: 241

Bikes: 2005 Seven Odonata (DuraAce /Reynolds),1983 Trek 950 (Mavic/Suntour/Regina), 1986 Stumpjumper Shimano/Suntour/Regina), 1986 MASI 3V, (Campy/Mavic/Regina) 1995 Schwinn LeTour (Suntour/Wienmann/Phil/Shimano/Regina): All Brooks Saddles

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 25 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Using which gear in the rear? Must not be a very steep hill
Still able to get up Lookout Mountain with no less than 53x23, a 60 mile out and back from my house. Entire 5 miles is 5% average with some 7- 8 % switchbacks. A lot more fun than weigh training.
sewupnut is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 05:37 PM
  #119  
Cycle Tourist
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 660
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 206 Times in 125 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Thought this might make for some interesting conversation.. lets say you can spec your bike with any sort of ratios you want. What are you picking?

1. What sort of terrain do you ride on?
2. What sort of bike is it?
3. How hilly is the area you ride in
4. Whats your current ratio spread and how does it suit your needs?
5. How would you change it?

- Mostly pavement, some gravel and dirt paths
- Road bike
- Mostly flat, some long hills, nothing crazy steep
- 40/52t front, 14-34t rear (2x5)
- 36/52t, 11-34t (2x8)

While my current gearing is totally sufficient for my needs and actually quite useful, I find myself being in top gear (52/14) all the time on flat terrain in non windy conditions. I'd like for slightly lower and slightly higher gearing on both ends of the spectrum. Something like 2x7 or 2x8 would offer some ideal spacing in terms of snatching through the gears while accelerating from a stand still.

Interestingly enough, I found a Biopace Mountain LX crankset made by shimano (28/38/48) . Never seen that sort of spacing before. Typically lower end mountain bikes come with 22/32/44. Woukd be interesting to give this unique ratio spread a try.
Wow. A 34! That's pretty hard to find outside of a touring bike. I agree a 14 just doesn't do it. A change to a 13 doesn't seem like much but it does make a big difference. I typically run a 23 or 24 up front and get by with a 32 in back on my loaded touring bikes. I'm happy enough with a 48/13 on the high end. With the right tires you should be able to climb telephone poles with a 22/34. People with zip by you when walking though. I hate it when that happens! 🙄
Cycle Tourist is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 05:59 PM
  #120  
Cycle Tourist
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 660
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 195 Post(s)
Liked 206 Times in 125 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Right , OK, will see how the bike feels after I switch out the left crank arm.

I feel quite efficient on this bike. There really is practically no bouncing, especially compared to other bikes I have been riding.
I don't get the bouncing. Maybe tighten up the sprung seatpost? I use a sprung seatpost on my favorite touring bike but it doesn't flex unless I hit a bump. I liked a oval ring on the granny for awhile particularly when I hit really steep hills with all my gear. It seemed to hurry me through the non-power part of the stroke. Sprint training got me to 200 rpm and allowed me to dust some of the competition at the line 40 years ago. Now I couldn't get far without getting out of the saddle from time to time just to keep a reasonable cadence on the 42/23 low on my racing bike. I probably should go looking for a 13-26 freewheel. Yeah, I said freewheel.🤓
Cycle Tourist is offline  
Old 12-01-20, 10:14 PM
  #121  
SpeedyBlueBiker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Redmond, WA & Bangkok, Thailand
Posts: 555

Bikes: 1999 Giant ATX MTB, 2002 Lemond Zurich, 2018 Fuji Transonic 2.3, 2019 Specialized Tarmac Disc Expert

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked 387 Times in 223 Posts
All my cassettes and cranks are stock.
Th Specialized is 52/36 with 11-30 I've climbed some longer passes and hills on it. Cayuse Pass and Sunrise Road.
The LeMond is 52/42/30 with 12-25 Same as above and also Doi Suthep in Thailand. Haven't tried Doi Inthanon yet. This bike lives in Thailand now.
The Fuji is 52/36 with 11-28 Haven't climbed any big or major hills. Mostly short steep hills.

I really like the 11-30 setup. So far I have been able to climb just about anything. If I were to switch out a cassette I would go with a 11-34. Ya know, just in case!
SpeedyBlueBiker is offline  
Old 12-03-20, 11:49 AM
  #122  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Originally Posted by Cycle Tourist
Wow. A 34! That's pretty hard to find outside of a touring bike. I agree a 14 just doesn't do it. A change to a 13 doesn't seem like much but it does make a big difference. I typically run a 23 or 24 up front and get by with a 32 in back on my loaded touring bikes. I'm happy enough with a 48/13 on the high end. With the right tires you should be able to climb telephone poles with a 22/34. People with zip by you when walking though. I hate it when that happens! 🙄
Its classified as a "sport touring" bike... Im quite thankful for the 34 gear.

I dont see anything wrong with the 14 gears. It works when you have this many teeth in the front chainring.. not only is the spacing in the freewheel improved, which helps for a smoother transition between ratios, but 14 is a more useful gear than 11 for the majority of average circumstances.
Moisture is offline  
Old 12-03-20, 08:44 PM
  #123  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
Does anyone here use those clip in pedals?

I've gradually increased my cycling cadence to around 84 RPM now. Changing the left crank arm back to 170 also seemed to help.

being able to lift one pedal up with your foot while pushing down with the other works noticeably more effective in a lower gear at a higher pedalling cadence. The Biopace crank seems a tiny bit pulsey with these clip in pedals though. I think it felt a bit better with round chainrings. I will maybe try to re orient the chainrings and see how that feels.

now I'm spinning faster at a lower gear and it feels great. I am curious to see how the gearing will change with larger crankarms.
Moisture is offline  
Old 12-03-20, 08:46 PM
  #124  
Moisture
Drip, Drip.
Thread Starter
 
Moisture's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Southern Ontario
Posts: 1,575

Bikes: Trek Verve E bike, Felt Doctrine 4 XC, Opus Horizon Apex 1

Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1034 Post(s)
Liked 193 Times in 163 Posts
With the clip in pedals I notice the biopace cranks are particularly demanding with nailing your power stroke correctly and not overshoting the 6 o clock position.

I did try these pedals very briefly on a bike equipped with round chainrings and I think it felt a bit more natural.
Moisture is offline  
Old 12-03-20, 09:22 PM
  #125  
SpeedyBlueBiker
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Redmond, WA & Bangkok, Thailand
Posts: 555

Bikes: 1999 Giant ATX MTB, 2002 Lemond Zurich, 2018 Fuji Transonic 2.3, 2019 Specialized Tarmac Disc Expert

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 169 Post(s)
Liked 387 Times in 223 Posts
Originally Posted by Moisture
Does anyone here use those clip in pedals?
All I use is clip in pedals. MTB or Road pedals, I use them both with the appropriate bikes.
SpeedyBlueBiker is offline  

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.