Any of these bikes worth buying? 1st road bike purchase
#1
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Any of these bikes worth buying? 1st road bike purchase
I know the prices for road bikes vary greatly and I'm unsure if I can get a good bike for my budget. I think $1,000 is the max that I would be comfortable spending. I'm not 100% sure if a road bike is what I should buy. I won't be riding on roads but on smooth trails (Don't want to be riding with traffic). I have a mountain bike but find it a little slow and would like to be able to go faster with less effort. Anyways, I have looked at the inventory for the shops in my area and these are my choices for bikes in my price range. Seeking advice on what to do, since I know nothing about bikes and want to avoid being taken advantage of in the shops. I think regardless of what bike I have, I'll have fun as long as the bike fits me properly. Thanks.
My options:
1) Cannondale CAAD Optimo 4 ($950.00 - $1,000.00)
Fork BallisTec Full Carbon, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" steerer, fender mounts, 100 x 9mm QR
Headset CAAD Optimo, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", 25mm top cap
Rims/Wheels RS 3.0, 24h front, 28h rear Hubs Front: Formula RB-31 Rear: Formula RB-32
Spokes Stainless Steel, 14g
Tires Vittoria Zaffiro, 700 x 25c
Crankset FSA Tempo, 50/34
Bottom Bracket Cartridge, square taper
Chain Shimano HG71, 8-speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Claris, 31.8 clamp
Rear Derailleur Shimano Claris
Cassette/Rear Cogs Shimano HG50, 11-30, 8-speed
Shifters Shimano Claris, 8-speed
Handlebars 6061 alloy, Compact
Tape/Grips Cannondale Bar Tape, 3.5mm
Stem 6061 Alloy, 31.8, 7°
Brake Levers Shimano Claris
Brakes Promax RC-452, dual pivot calipers
Pedals Wellgo w/Clip and Strap
Saddle Cannondale Stage CX
Seat Post Cannondale 4, 6061 Alloy, 27.2 x 350mm
2) Specialized Allez ($1,000)
SeatPost Alloy, 2-bolt Clamp, 12mm offset, 27.2mm, anti-corrosion hardware
Saddle Body Geometry Bridge Saddle, steel rails
Handlebars Specialized Shallow Drop, 6061, 70x125mm, 31.8mm clamp
Stem Specialized, 3D-forged alloy, 4-bolt, 7-degree rise
Seat Binder Bolt-type, 31.8mm
Tape Specialized S-Wrap
DRIVETRAIN
Chainrings 50/34T
Cassette SunRace, 8-speed, 11-32t
Crankset Shimano Claris R200
Rear Derailleur Shimano Claris, 8-speed
Chain KMC X8 w/ Missing Link™, 8-speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Claris, clamp-on
Shift Levers Shimano Claris 2000, 8-speed
Bottom Bracket Shimano
WHEELS & TIRES
Rear Wheel Axis Sport
Front Wheel Axis Sport
Inner Tubes Presta, 40mm valve
Rear Tire RoadSport, 700x26mm
Front Tire RoadSport, 700x26mm
BRAKES
Front Brake Tektro, alloy, dual-pivot
Rear Brake Tektro, alloy, dual-pivot
FRAMESET
Frame Specialized E5 Premium Aluminum, fully manipulated tubing w/ SmoothWelds, 1-1/8"- 1-3/8" tapered head tube, internal cable routing, threaded BB, 130mm spacing
SUSPENSION
Fork Specialized FACT carbon, 1-1/8" to 1-3/8" taper, fender eyelets
ACCESSORIES
Pedals
My options:
1) Cannondale CAAD Optimo 4 ($950.00 - $1,000.00)
Specs
Frame All-New SmartForm C2 Alloy, SAVE, tapered headtube, fender mounts, 130 x 9mm QRFork BallisTec Full Carbon, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4" steerer, fender mounts, 100 x 9mm QR
Headset CAAD Optimo, 1-1/8" to 1-1/4", 25mm top cap
Rims/Wheels RS 3.0, 24h front, 28h rear Hubs Front: Formula RB-31 Rear: Formula RB-32
Spokes Stainless Steel, 14g
Tires Vittoria Zaffiro, 700 x 25c
Crankset FSA Tempo, 50/34
Bottom Bracket Cartridge, square taper
Chain Shimano HG71, 8-speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Claris, 31.8 clamp
Rear Derailleur Shimano Claris
Cassette/Rear Cogs Shimano HG50, 11-30, 8-speed
Shifters Shimano Claris, 8-speed
Handlebars 6061 alloy, Compact
Tape/Grips Cannondale Bar Tape, 3.5mm
Stem 6061 Alloy, 31.8, 7°
Brake Levers Shimano Claris
Brakes Promax RC-452, dual pivot calipers
Pedals Wellgo w/Clip and Strap
Saddle Cannondale Stage CX
Seat Post Cannondale 4, 6061 Alloy, 27.2 x 350mm
2) Specialized Allez ($1,000)
Technical Specifications
COCKPITSeatPost Alloy, 2-bolt Clamp, 12mm offset, 27.2mm, anti-corrosion hardware
Saddle Body Geometry Bridge Saddle, steel rails
Handlebars Specialized Shallow Drop, 6061, 70x125mm, 31.8mm clamp
Stem Specialized, 3D-forged alloy, 4-bolt, 7-degree rise
Seat Binder Bolt-type, 31.8mm
Tape Specialized S-Wrap
DRIVETRAIN
Chainrings 50/34T
Cassette SunRace, 8-speed, 11-32t
Crankset Shimano Claris R200
Rear Derailleur Shimano Claris, 8-speed
Chain KMC X8 w/ Missing Link™, 8-speed
Front Derailleur Shimano Claris, clamp-on
Shift Levers Shimano Claris 2000, 8-speed
Bottom Bracket Shimano
WHEELS & TIRES
Rear Wheel Axis Sport
Front Wheel Axis Sport
Inner Tubes Presta, 40mm valve
Rear Tire RoadSport, 700x26mm
Front Tire RoadSport, 700x26mm
BRAKES
Front Brake Tektro, alloy, dual-pivot
Rear Brake Tektro, alloy, dual-pivot
FRAMESET
Frame Specialized E5 Premium Aluminum, fully manipulated tubing w/ SmoothWelds, 1-1/8"- 1-3/8" tapered head tube, internal cable routing, threaded BB, 130mm spacing
SUSPENSION
Fork Specialized FACT carbon, 1-1/8" to 1-3/8" taper, fender eyelets
ACCESSORIES
Pedals
#2
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You can always buy a good bike no matter what your budget. The problem is that you or someone else will compare it to a better bike that might be outside your budget.
Those bikes look fine. Make sure what ever you get fits you and that it has the appropriate range of gears for the terrain you are going to ride.
No matter what you get, someone will always find better out there.
Stick to a budget that will let you be able to get another bike later if you find this new bike doesn't quite fit the bill. Don't let yourself jack the high end of your budget up by trying to included bikes you might now perceive as better. They probably are, but if you buy such an expensive bike that you now can't afford to simply throw the new away and get another, then you probably will be stuck with the wrong bike no matter what you do.
Those bikes look fine. Make sure what ever you get fits you and that it has the appropriate range of gears for the terrain you are going to ride.
No matter what you get, someone will always find better out there.
Stick to a budget that will let you be able to get another bike later if you find this new bike doesn't quite fit the bill. Don't let yourself jack the high end of your budget up by trying to included bikes you might now perceive as better. They probably are, but if you buy such an expensive bike that you now can't afford to simply throw the new away and get another, then you probably will be stuck with the wrong bike no matter what you do.
Last edited by Iride01; 09-26-21 at 01:07 PM.
#3
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I would make sure you get a frame that can fit at least 32 mm tyres and preferably a bit more. I'm not sure what these particular frames can handle, but their stock tyres are a bit narrow, especially for off-road. You might want to look at "gravel" bikes, which have much more tyre clearance.
#4
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For packed-earth trails I would want 32 and probably more like 38-mm tires. I would not buy a bike for any sort of trail riding which could not fit at least 35 or 38-mm tires, because that is something you cannot change later. I can mount a 25-mm tire on a wider wheel, no problem, but I cannot fit a wider tire in a frame which is too narrow.
Sticking with trek, there is the Domane (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...ode=blue_black) but it takes a maximum 28-mm tire, and the Crosscheck, which is a little pricy but much more serious for off-road riding (https://www.trekbikes.com/us/en_US/b...orCode=reddark)
From Cannondale--Also a little outside your price range---the Topstone 3--(https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bik...loy/topstone-3) and the slightly less expensive Topstone 4 (https://www.cannondale.com/en-us/bik...loy/topstone-4)
These are more serious gravel bikes, with lower gearing more suitable to softer surfaces and the occasional short, steep climb, wide tires, and mechanical disc brakes which are not any better than rim brakes except---A.) they work when wet and dirty, and B.) you can fit wider tires easily, and C.) if you bend a wheel or break a spoke you can still have brakes for the ride home. You won't stop any faster, but you won't cross a stream and then find that your brakes don't work for a few seconds while the rim gets squeegeed dry.
You might not need a Serious gravel bike. If you know where you want to ride, and it is all pretty mild and tame and well-maintained, great. But in all cases you want At Least 32-mm of rubber on the road, IMO.
#5
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The budget alternative is to put some thinner tires (maybe 1.5") with a smooth tread on your MTB and see how that works out for you.
Brent
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Last edited by obrentharris; 09-27-21 at 09:55 AM. Reason: grammar
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#6
Banned
Downside of the Cannondale is its use of rim brakes. Even $600 bikes are available with disc brakes. The Trek Domane AL 3 Disc gravel bike sells for $1,350 but will be better on dirt and gravel roads and more options for changing rims and tires in the future should you decide to do so. Carbon forks also make bikes more expensive but also improve comfort on rough terrain with their pasive shock absorption.
#7
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If you are aware of road bikes the OP can buy that have disc brakes and cost $600, list em. I am sure the OP and others would be interested.
To be clear, I really dont think 25-26mm tires are a good decision for 'trails', assuming that means unpaved routes. Its obviously doable, but wont be as comfortable/fun/fast/confident as a 32-38mm tire, at which point disc brakes are likely needed.
#9
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Thread Starter
I saw this road bike, is it a good buy? Not sure if it would fit me though, I'm a male and 5'7" 30" inseam.
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3129026/
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3129026/
#10
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I saw this road bike, is it a good buy? Not sure if it would fit me though, I'm a male and 5'7" 30" inseam.
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3129026/
https://www.pinkbike.com/buysell/3129026/
A 51cm is probably too small. I am sure you could make it work with maybe a stem swap and seatpost swap, but its small.
It probably has 545mm of stack height and 370mm of reach. I am guessing its 30mm shorter in stack height 10mm shorter in reach than ideal. But thats a total guess since its a used 11 year old bike. You could look up geometry charts and compare to current typical endurance road bikes in your suggested size.
#11
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Thread Starter
Pretty nice components. A couple generations old, but quality.
A 51cm is probably too small. I am sure you could make it work with maybe a stem swap and seatpost swap, but its small.
It probably has 545mm of stack height and 370mm of reach. I am guessing its 30mm shorter in stack height 10mm shorter in reach than ideal. But thats a total guess since its a used 11 year old bike. You could look up geometry charts and compare to current typical endurance road bikes in your suggested size.
A 51cm is probably too small. I am sure you could make it work with maybe a stem swap and seatpost swap, but its small.
It probably has 545mm of stack height and 370mm of reach. I am guessing its 30mm shorter in stack height 10mm shorter in reach than ideal. But thats a total guess since its a used 11 year old bike. You could look up geometry charts and compare to current typical endurance road bikes in your suggested size.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/15458721521...2258%7Ciid%3A1
I am able to visit the shop and try the bike out.
I also saw these two bikes
https://www.ebay.com/itm/265296111213?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11051.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=e19c9dde2c9945cf81e31d256 c56354b&bu=44312346915&osub=-1%7E1&crd=20211011074209&segname=11051&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname %3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2014-Giant-Avail-1-Shimano-105-Medium/265302767875
Last edited by morgothaod; 10-11-21 at 09:27 AM.
#12
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What do you want to do with your bike? Road bikes aren't the only bikes meant to ride on pavement. Road bikes also are probably not the best bike for the road if your are only going to ride short leisurely rides.
At any rate, if you don't just pull the trigger and get a bicycle of some sort, you'll never know what kind of cycling you really want to do or why a particular style of bike is better for some uses but not other uses.
At any rate, if you don't just pull the trigger and get a bicycle of some sort, you'll never know what kind of cycling you really want to do or why a particular style of bike is better for some uses but not other uses.
#13
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Most important is the frame geometry which varies widely with bike models. Specialized has road and gravel bikes with head tube angles from their Sprint frame that has a head tube angle of 73.5 degrees and fork rake or offset of 48mm to their "gravel" bike frame with a head tube angle of 70 degrees and a fork rake of 55mm. The Sprint is more of a criterium race bike and the gravel bike is a more relaxed road bike comparable to one made for use with triathons. In between is the Specialized Domane endurance bike with a head tube angle of 71.9 degrees and a rake/offset of 48mm.
The only other thing of importance is the inner width of the rims as wider rims support wider tires which provide more traction and a smoother ride with no increase in rolling resistance. I would want to run with 28mm wide tires.
The only other thing of importance is the inner width of the rims as wider rims support wider tires which provide more traction and a smoother ride with no increase in rolling resistance. I would want to run with 28mm wide tires.