phtomita

I removed the crown race after fighting couple days.
First I used the screwdriver + hammer method and banged quite hard and didn't come out, but notice it had moved a tiny bit.
I found an old knife and started using it, similar to the blade method. Once I got some more room, added a hacksaw blade and later another one.
After some 3 mm it finally came out hammering gently a screwdriver. I saw paint was between the race and steerer.
Now I am wondering how it will be to place it back later.

Inspecting closely the crown race, I can see spots where the ball bearing is sitting (I think it is called indexing).
From what I found here and on internet, it seems I can just add loose ball bearings that will improve the steering - just being careful when servicing since there is no more cage.
Did someone actually do this? Any issue afterwards?

Thanks in advance!

Steel1

Replacing cage with loose balls (higher quantity) does help. My commuter had some significant indexing, loose balls working fine last 6 months.

TPL

Replace retainer bearings with loose balls ( fill the cup ) ....this will solve your problem and 'indexing' headset / steering will no longer be evident

phtomita

Cool, thank you! Let me order some 3/16 ball bearings.

Dfrost 

Are you sure they’re 3/16”? Some headsets use 5/32”.

JohnDThompson 

Put some grease on the race seat, and it should install fine using a slide hammer or a piece of pipe.

Some versions of the 600 headsets used a full complement of balls in the retainer, so you may no be able to fit any additional balls. But removing the crown race (as you've done) and reinstalling it in a slightly different orientation can prevent the balls from falling into the indentations as easily.

There were several iterations of the 600 headsets; the HP-6400 "Ultegra" version used 5/32" balls, the HP-6500 "Ultegra" version used cartridges, the HP-6200 EX aka"Arabesque" and HP-6207 EX used 3/16" balls.

sd5782 

If the race is already off, isn’t that half the battle and lead to the installation of a new one?

TPL

Of course, the replacement loose balls should be the same diameter as those that were in your retainers
Measure with care ....the difference between 5/32 and 3/16 is not much ....but, quite important to get the correct diameter

phtomita

Measured with caliper and it was 4.76 mm or 3/16 in
Mine is the HP 6207EX headset

phtomita

Thank you - I will have some small repair/modification on the frame and powder coated before coming to this, so something in the future.
As for the pipe, do you round the internal edge where the pipe will touch the crown race to increase contact surface, or since the materials are different it really doesn't matter?

jdawginsc 

Try and find a pipe size where the rim of the pipe only contacts the non race top rim. In other words a tight fit. Crown race installers are reasonably cheap but I understand if you are not likely to do much else that you would consider alternate methods.

How did you get the pressed cups out?

phtomita

I see, make sense

Ahnn... didn't remove the cups yet - I am going to try hitting lightly with a long screwdriver and if doesn't work will get a metal pipe and split with a hand hacksaw as in RJ the bike guy.
For installing back the cups, I have a long bolt I used to coldset the frame and can use it to add pressure - maybe get some big washers.

jdawginsc 

You are likely near a bicycle co-op in Washington. They have tools usually, and welcome the opportunity to help. Unfortunately, there are no bike coops here though.

JohnDThompson 

A cheap 1" diameter steel seat post with slots cut to flare the end works well:

Dfrost 

@phtomita, it’s not in Redmond, but Bike Works (https://www.bikeworks.org) in Columbia City has Open Shop (bikeworks.org) opportunities on Saturdays. Plenty of tools and folks that will help you use them. Lots of available decent parts, too, at excellent prices. There might be something on the Eastside, but I’m not aware of it.

phtomita

Thank you! I stopped there few years ago to do some final adjustments to my first pair of wheels I built myself.
I tried gentle hitting the cups with the tip of the flat screwdriver and it came out easily . Now frame and fork are bare to go for change/fix and paint.
Finished truing the front wheel and now have the rear one that I notice I have to dish because is on NDR side.

phtomita

Digging out this thread.
Finally got the frame powder coated and installing the cups back was piece of cake - use two pieces of wood and long bolt/screw.
Now, as I struggled to remove the crown race, the other way is being a struggle too.
I got the PVC pipe that fits nice for the 1" steerer and banged quite hard but it doesn't want to go in and I made sure it is parallel.

Since it was in, it should fit.. but after a fight of 2 hours+ feel completely defeated.
Would it be ok to file/clean a bit the steerer since I see some paint there?

retroshifter

Sounds like the crown race is a very tight fit on your project. What works for me is to use a cast iron weight from a dumbbell. I don’t use it as a hammer but I do the reverse. I lay the weight flat on top of a open vise (any flat surface with a hole would work). Then I turn the fork upside down and slam it down with the steering tube through the hole in the weight (the hole diameter seems like a good fit). Kind of like a slide hammer in reverse. Good luck

nlerner

I use a piece of cast iron pipe as a slide hammer for steel races (not to be tried with alu!).

phtomita

Thank you for suggestion/advice
I've just cut the PVC pipe long enough for the steerer length + some and banged the pipe to the floor upside down holding the forks and crown race is in and took me less than 5 mins.

phtomita

Mission acomplished

BTinNYC 

Well done. Banged on it hard and didn't muss the new paint (like someone I know).