iab

Whatever the LBS has on their point of purchase display. Used some this morning on some hubs. Don't recall the brand, it don't matter.

BFisher

Any quality grease is more than sufficient for bicycle maintenance. Lucas red grease is about ten bucks a pound. Park is almost double that. Spend what you want, but don't fool yourself.

I've never tasted any of them, so I have no favorite.

Mr. Spadoni 

And as I was almost home today, in a pile of free stuff at a neighbors, was a tube of Quicksilver! Maybe I’ll find the green grease on tomorrow’s ride.

SurferRosa

"It's a floor wax!"

"No, it's a dessert topping!"

rjhammett

I mentioned that it (Lucas x-tra heavy duty grease) was identical to a bike specific grease in my post above. I didn't mention that it was Park brand. I think I paid about $5 for a pound of the Lucas grease at Menards.

Chombi1 

Has anyone tried Super Lube Synthetic grease on their bike components?
asking, because I just bought some to lube the poly bushings on the aftermarket antisway bar I just installed on my car..... now I have lots of it and I'm looking for other uses for it.....
Surprised how light the grease is. Kinda similar to Phil Wood grease in consistency.

brian3069

I would of know that if I actually read the thread before posting.

KLiNCK

Either or ither...

Chuck M 

I've worked with enough machinery in my life that I agree with you. I suppose someone will come out of the woodwork to say how many watts you can gain from spending more for bike specific grease. But maybe not, forum users don't seem to be as passionate about grease as they are chain lube.

etherhuffer 

Yes, I did the exact same thing, replaced all the bushings on my 1984 Mazda diesel pickup. I have Super Lube and Marine Grease. I use marine grease in areas that will be wet regardless, like bearings. And of course, never forget the other essentials, anti-seize paste and Lock Tite.
The lubricity, viscosity, shear strength numbers on most greases are for automotive use. What may matter more is that greases and lubes that are well formulated often have ph stabilizers or anti-oxidant products in them. For fun, look up the history of Ballistol. I use that stuff on my black powder rifle and dueling pistol.

sdn40

Pretty much. If the Dollar Store has grease I'm sure it can handle any bike bearings. If there has been any bike bearing failures due to excessive heat surpassing the grease specs I haven't heard of it.

canklecat

I've used Phil's green grease since the 1970s, just because it was available in a toothpaste sized tube that was enough for my occasional needs. It's always seemed fine in wheel hubs, bottom brackets, headsets, pretty much anything that needed grease.

But more recently I've noticed some Shimano 600 Tricolor and later Ultegra hubs with original Shimano grease feel smoother, spin longer and more quietly. However, this is on a bike stand. No idea whether that translates to any measurable advantage when riding. Can't say I see any difference in my middling-speed riding.

In comparison, when I spin a hub or wheel with Phil's grease, after a few spins I can feel less... I'm not sure what the word is... it's less cohesive and buttery. And if there's any play in the bearings, however slight, I can hear a slight metallic sound. It sounds as if Phil's liquefies and loses some cohesion even with the relatively small amount of friction and heat in bicycle bearings. But I can't say that characteristic has caused any problems in bearing wear, or rolling qualities on the road.

Still, I'm kinda tempted to spend a bit more for Shimano premium grease next time I do overhaul these 600 Tricolor and Ultegra hubs. Reminds me, I need to open up the 600 Tricolor hub for a late-1980s rear wheel from an Ironman, one of those with the Wolber Alpine Super Champion rims. The rear rim cracked a year or so ago -- same month the Araya CTL-370 rear rim from my '89 Ironman cracked. Seems to be a thing with those lightweight low profile hard anodized rims after a few decades of perfectly fine service. I can salvage the hub and spokes from both wheels for another project, especially if I ever get around to trying to build my own wheels.

Reminds me, I didn't realize how much variation there is in greases until about 25 or so years ago when I overhauled a few spring piston airguns and bought a sample of every grease and lubricant sold by Beeman's back in the 1980s-'90s. Beeman's just bought specialty greases and lubes in bulk and repackaged them in small containers suitable for hobbyists. There was a red gel type grease with a lighter body, a very stiff waxy white paste, messy moly in synthetic grease, etc. A small 1 oz container could last a hobbyist a lifetime. But each was intended for specific purposes, especially to prevent dieseling inside spring piston compression chambers from grease residue contaminating the compression chamber. Some users would deliberately add inappropriate greases and oils to compression chambers to induce dieseling, which could significantly boost the power and velocity of a tiny lead pellet... at the cost of eventually damaging the airgun and injuring anyone nearby in a worst case scenario.

And I had a bunch of traditional and modern lubes intended for black powder guns. Discharged black powder residue can be very messy and damage the metal if neglected. Some folks just used old fashioned lard, which did work pretty well, but there were newer lubes with wintergreen odorants added which also worked well and reduced the sulfur smell.

I misplaced or inadvertently discarded most of those lubes during a move about 15 years ago, but still have a few samples. Might be interesting to see if I can identify them in the catalog of an industrial lube supplier to determine the characteristics. Or maybe just try 'em and see what happens. Bicycle bearings aren't a very intensive usage so I'd suspect pretty much any grease, lube, lard, wax, etc., will work for awhile.

Narhay

I have some red stuff but recently bought some blue stuff and I can figure out when I last did maintenance because the last tube was green.

I think clean, liberally applied and regularly changed is the best type of grease. I have one of those little grease guns pictured above and have to say they are the bees knees.

P!N20

Things You Won't Read in the C&V Forum

Bianchigirll 

DiegoFrogs

I don't think I've ever exhausted any one that I've bought. Typically I toss or donate whatever is left of what I have when I move (to another state or country) due to the risk of making a giant mess and buy something new when I arrive in the new place.

I've learned that I don't use much. I pretty much rebuild one bike's worth of bearings about once a year, plus lubing some stems and seatposts. In the past I've had small tubes with tiny applicator nozzles and tight fitting caps, tubes intended for grease guns that usually have a loose fitting cap, tiny tins with a loose fitting cap, and giant tubs like a small coffee can.

Honestly, I like the stuff in a tube with a tiny applicator. It's more efficient, cleaner and since I'm not worried about the cap coming off, I'd take it with me when I move. The form factor and user experience is more important to me than the specific grease.

Coaster brakes are the one application where I have to think carefully about what type I'd use, and I no longer have a bike with a coaster brake.

Mr. Spadoni 

Wait! You can buy bacon grease? And pass up the opportunity to cook and eat bacon? Madness, just madness.

Bianchigirll 

I was a bit surprised to see it on the store at the Kroger last holiday season. I don't eat enough bacon to collect a usable amount of grease, but was tempted to buy some for the little baking I did last year. They also have duck fat and I think some other animal.

squirtdad

phil's

bluesteak 

I have a can of Phil wood grease that I use for most things, and a tube of “moly” grease that I put on threads, and (this is not approved) a chain lube. I use wd40 as a solvent, and then give a light coat of moly grease, wiping of the excess.

mechanicmatt

I used to Use Phil's and Park blue for years. But they both break down in the hot Kansas summers and bleed out. Then bought this, 10 years in, no troubles. It's very, very good. I think now it goes by Valvoline synthetic grease. It's a moly-synthetic blend, never had a heat failure with it. Anyone use the various branded marine rated red grease?

tjfastback66

scarlson 

Duck fat is soooo goood!!
I have been making duck confit in my crock pot pretty regularly since the covid shutdowns. It is my absolute favorite food and you get so much fat leftover after you're done with the duck. Oven fries made with duck fat are absolutely to die for. In order not to die from them, you gotta ride! I also like to use duck fat to fry up the venison I get from hunters in my family. Helps to compensate for how lean it is. When I run out of fat, it is time to make duck again.

I have thought about using animal fat as bicycle grease, but of course I would not waste good fat on bicycles. I bet beef tallow would work best in warm temperatures. Cooler temperatures call for something less stiff, like chicken or duck fat. I do wonder if it would break down in use, and run out of the bearings.

You ever hear about those mountain bikers getting attacked by bears? Maybe this is why... The bears just wanted the grease in the hubs!

The Thin Man 

Motorex for all around grease. Great stuff! I've been using it for years.

Finish Line premium with Teflon for headsets, BB's and wheel bearings.

Shimano Premium for my personal rigs.

RustyJames 

This is the most civilized oil/grease discussion I’ve ever read on the internet!