Kilroy1988 

Today I was putting an older pair of Tanaka fenders on my Mercian Campionissimo when I realized that the rear mount was too short to reach the frame eyelets... Frustrated, I almost gave up until I noticed a pair of unused toe clip backing plates among my spares. Et voilą!

-Gregory

gugie 

Great McGiver!

SpedFast

Wow! That's even better than duct tape or baling wire.

Insidious C. 

Reading the thread title, I thought for sure this would be another 650b conversion thread.

Andy_K 

I like it! And since @Insidious C. was looking for 650B content, here's a DIY drop bolt held together by the inserts from two Crank Brothers cleats with old bearings from rebuilt Crank Brothers pedals used as spacers on the lower part. And people say Crank Brothers stuff is no good!

52telecaster

Does that work pretty well?

Roger M

I'm all for using what's on hand to get the job done. On one fender installation, I didn't have any of the P clamps. Used to dabble in plumbing, so I cut up some pieces of copper plumbers strap.

Most recent fender job left me needing spacers. I used what I had, some small diameter copper tube.

52telecaster

Beautiful

Kilroy1988 

I'd like to mention that my fix is obviously temporary. I already purchased a replacement strut that should have plenty of reach. I believe I cut this one down after fitting it to another bike years ago... Won't do that again!

-Gregory

Andy_K 

I didn't use it long like that, switched back to 700c tires, but while I had this it seemed to do OK.

tricky 

Nice! Would also be useful as a way to bridge the gap to a fork bridge that is too far for a front fender to reach.

Andy_K 

At the risk of hijacking the thread (not my intention), I have to share this modification I made to use fenders on a Marin Muirwoods 29er that had way too much clearance at the fork.



This one I used for years with no problems.

Kilroy1988 

Not much to hijack, no worries! I was just bored and sharing some random doohickies used in the wrong sort of way.

-Gregory

79pmooney

Suggestion - find some thicker quality steel plate and cut to suit. The fender backup is both thin and only about a 1/4" or less at the midpoint. So, not stiff. Stiffness means less fender oscillation on rough roads. Having the stay come to an eye which is securely anchored to the frame with a bolt is a big plus.

So, congratulations. But keep your eye out for that perfect steel sheet.

Ben, who's been riding and modifying fenders for 50 years.

And edit: Just remembered, - I saw stays on the SKS website the other day as separate items. So, a shop, should be able to get them for you. (I've asked a local shop to inquire with SKS about making yellow fenders. SKS got back to them. No, they couldn't with their current plastics. Shucks. But kudos for listening and replying.)

Second edit! Andy K gets it! Stiff!

The rear fender of my avatar (that didn't go for the ride where the photo was taken) is an SKS Chromoplast cut in two ahead of the brake bridge. The rear portion was then stretched out by cutting the fender flanges to the "corner" at the top. Fender was then spread and fiberglass laid inside to make that stretched shape both permanent and stiff. Last. I made a River Cities like bracket for the rear section but out of heavy steel flatbar, not the light and sexy SS RC uses. End result looks a little ungainly but no oscillation at all, never rubs and I can use the entire 2" of dropout track with the biggest tires the bikes was designed to fit.

Kilroy1988 

Thanks, I already replied above stating that this is a temporary solution and I've already purchased a replacement strut.

-Gregory

rhm

Old Schwinn fenders (sometimes) had a Y-shaped piece of stamped sheet steel connecting the two fender braces to the one axle (this is before they invented those eyelet thingies). It gave you a lot of control over the fender line. More control points alas does not always translate to more control.