67tony 

...after being sandblasted, primed, colored and clear-coated. It's a '71 Schwinn Super Sport that I am "re-purposing" with lighter and (sometimes) newer parts.

Here's my decal dilemma:
I did not use water transfer decals under the clear-coat because of a recommendation. Now, I have to decide whether to use vinyl or the water transfer type on top of the clear-coat. I'd rather use water transfer but worry they will scratch easily without being protected by a layer or three of clear-coat.

I see the water transfer type on ebay, but do not see vinyl.
Who would be the source for vintage vinyl decals?

Thanks for any help you can give me with this renovation stage!

sloar 

Check velocals

rhenning

These are vinyl decals put on the bikes after powdercoating and have 4 in one case and 6 in the other years of wear. Roger

RobbieTunes

Many decal makers are now insisting on the 1ml layer of vinyl to hold the decal and make it easier to apply. I'm not a big fan, but I just used some on a powder-coated bike, and I'm much less nervous about decal damage, and part of that is due to the 1ml vinyl layer. I see no need to clear on those. You can see the edges, though. Now, if you wet-sand and apply the decals, even with the vinyl, when you clear-coat, the edges pretty much disappear.

buldogge

How about using vinyl (ie Velocals) and laying 2-4 additional coats of clear (scuff all clear first before laying decals)...???

67tony 

The prepping, painting, and clear-coating was done by a shop. I am not equipped (or inclined!) to apply a high-quality clear-coat onto this frame.

So, is there a dramatic decrease in durability by using water transfer decals? They are actual paint, right, and thus should be somewhat hard. Assuming water transfer looks better, is a slight drop-off in scratch resistance worth giving them a try?

Also, I think I've read about masking off the rest of the bike and just rattle-can spraying clear-coat over just the vinyl decals. Has anyone done this and, if so, how did it turn out?

buldogge

Any reason it can't go back to the painters for additional clear after you install the decals???

Alternatively, Velocals offers vinyl decals with an additional clear layer for protection. I used this type on my Pinarello Treviso, over existing decent paint...FWIW.

JRrestore

I would recommend that you stay with the clear vinyl as your base material. The water slide type deal will need a clear coat to make them durable. You can mask around the decals and rattle-can clear over the top, but you will have to polish out any edge that appears after you remove the masking tape.

JRrestore

Here is a picture with the additional clear layer.

calstar 

What....a new paint job and no pics to share! Let's see it 67tony.

orangeology

+1

67tony 

Pictures added...sorry!

DsmBerg

The SS decal below is the velocals version of what you would be picking up, without clear coat. I don't think clear coat is necessary and I'm quite happy with how they have held up to a bit of abuse.

If I had to do this again, I would have trimmed some of the excess a little closer to the letters - in certain light you can see the vinyl edging around the words. I have used Motobecane decals from Cyclomondo that came nicely pre-trimmed but I don't know if he does Schwinn decals.

Also -DO NOT rattle can over your fresh professional paint for the love of god. If you really want a clear, have it professionally sprayed over your decals after they have dried for a few weeks (if vinyl). But again, clear coat seems like overkill.

BobHufford

And Velocals is having a sale.

Bob

67tony 

Yup, velocals it is. ..the $5 coupon sealed the deal.

Thanks for the help, I'll post pics when things get put back together.