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bent spoke

Old 10-14-21, 06:12 PM
  #26  
CliffordK
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun
I pick up 3cc hypo's at the pharmacy to use as a mini oiler. Chain lube, PO, whatever.....
Good idea. I've had issues buying syringes or needles for home projects, but I know a diabetic that may be able to get me good small syringes. I really wouldn't care if they were once used.
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Old 10-14-21, 06:46 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by CliffordK
Good idea. I've had issues buying syringes or needles for home projects, but I know a diabetic that may be able to get me good small syringes. I really wouldn't care if they were once used.
I don't have any trouble at Fred Meyer, just 40 miles or so up the road from you.
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Old 10-14-21, 09:09 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Funkywheels63
the bike company got back to me and they recommend two sizes in the park tool wrenches. will see when I get them on sat. in the meantime, will spray some penetrating oil on them. doesn't look like they've been touched in awhile.

Don't use too much lube on the nipples. Too much lube can get into the rim and make a mess on the protective tape that is installed to protect the tube. Just put some lube in a small container, dip a small stick (toothpick) into the lube and 'dot' a small amount at the spoke/nipple joint & also where the nipple enters the rim.

When trueing the wheel, if nipples seems stuck, you can add a little more lube where needed.
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Old 10-15-21, 08:50 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by KCT1986
Don't use too much lube on the nipples. Too much lube can get into the rim and make a mess on the protective tape that is installed to protect the tube. Just put some lube in a small container, dip a small stick (toothpick) into the lube and 'dot' a small amount at the spoke/nipple joint & also where the nipple enters the rim.

When trueing the wheel, if nipples seems stuck, you can add a little more lube where needed.
when you're referring to "lube", are you referring to lubrication, or are you using it as a general term. not sure if penetrating oil is the same. Thanks
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Old 10-15-21, 11:07 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Funkywheels63
when you're referring to "lube", are you referring to lubrication, or are you using it as a general term. not sure if penetrating oil is the same. Thanks
My reference to "lube" is whatever you may chose to apply. Most penetrating oil or similar, has some type of petroleum in it and can effect the adhesive of the rim tape.

My point is that not a lot is needed, the thread are only about 2mm. Putting a lot on it is unnecessary and will only get to places that it is not useful.
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Old 10-17-21, 07:39 AM
  #31  
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Good morning, got the spoke wrench from Parker tools. was checking to see where my brake pads were binding to the wheel rim. found three areas where it's binding. my questions are, do I work one area at a time and then move on to the next, and, do I work from the center outwards, or it doesn't make a difference. Thanks
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Old 10-17-21, 08:07 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Funkywheels63
Good morning, got the spoke wrench from Parker tools. was checking to see where my brake pads were binding to the wheel rim. found three areas where it's binding. my questions are, do I work one area at a time and then move on to the next, and, do I work from the center outwards, or it doesn't make a difference. Thanks
You should do a little reading up on "Wheel Truing" before you start twisting spoke nipples. It's not difficult, but a systematic approach will give you better results.
See Park Tools, Sheldon Brown (scroll down to "Tensioning and Truing"). A good, inexpensive, basic source of wheel-building information is Roger Musson's book on Wheelbuilding.
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Old 10-17-21, 08:20 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by sweeks
You should do a little reading up on "Wheel Truing" before you start twisting spoke nipples. It's not difficult, but a systematic approach will give you better results.
See Park Tools, Sheldon Brown (scroll down to "Tensioning and Truing"). A good, inexpensive, basic source of wheel-building information is Roger Musson's book on Wheelbuilding.
Thanks for responding. will do some reading. it's going to be some time before I tackle any "wheel building".
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Old 10-17-21, 08:49 AM
  #34  
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Ok. So you found 3 or 4 spots where it rubs. That sounds about do-able. Your question whether or not to fix one before moving on to the next is a smart one. As was the suggestion to read a book on wheel building.

The reason not to fix one rub before moving on to the next rub is that the wheel is a system. It is only a true flat plane when the system is under appropriate (ideally even) tension. As soon as one part or another is under less tension the rim will want to form the shape of a taco. That is to say It may only be a very small handful of spokes in one area that are the problem.

A truing stand will tell you where the deviation is worst. But you don't necessarily know if these spokes are the problem or where the sum of all problems is being made evident. Bring these spokes in line a quarter turn & recheck the wheels true. You may find the tacos bulge has moved. Bring those spokes in line. Re-check. Your taco bulge will move around the rim improving with each iteration until finally is is satisfactorily "flat enough."

It can sometimes be a very long process. Sometimes, it can be a minute or two. It really depends on skill is needed & how much the rim has been abused.

You can do it! Gool luck!
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Old 10-17-21, 09:24 AM
  #35  
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My method,
Locate problem area.
It can be 1 to a dozen spokes. Some people like to do 3 or 4 spokes at a time, but I grab a handful of spokes with the left hand and do them all.

I just go from one end to the other alternating tightening and loosening spokes.

Start with only adjusting spokes 1/4 to 1/2 turn.

If all spokes are loose, you may just tighten.

be wary of radial hops (just tighten or loosen).

also watch the dishing. On the rear, the drive side will be much tighter than the non drive side.

once I have adjusted a group of spokes, spin to check if true and go to the next worse spot which could be back at the same spot.
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Old 10-17-21, 11:31 AM
  #36  
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well, got it done. I just had to make sure that I was loosening and tightening the correct side. I corrected one area, and when I went to spin the wheel, there was no more binding anywhere else which surprised me. I read the articles and watched a couple of the part tool videos, I didn't realize how involved truing a wheel was. I thought there was only lateral truing. anyway, thanks for everyone's input. depending how much I get involved into this, might invest in a truing stand sometime in the future.
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