bent spoke
#26
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18320 Post(s)
Liked 4,489 Times
in
3,338 Posts
Good idea. I've had issues buying syringes or needles for home projects, but I know a diabetic that may be able to get me good small syringes. I really wouldn't care if they were once used.
#27
Really Old Senior Member
I don't have any trouble at Fred Meyer, just 40 miles or so up the road from you.
#28
Senior Member
Don't use too much lube on the nipples. Too much lube can get into the rim and make a mess on the protective tape that is installed to protect the tube. Just put some lube in a small container, dip a small stick (toothpick) into the lube and 'dot' a small amount at the spoke/nipple joint & also where the nipple enters the rim.
When trueing the wheel, if nipples seems stuck, you can add a little more lube where needed.
#29
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Don't use too much lube on the nipples. Too much lube can get into the rim and make a mess on the protective tape that is installed to protect the tube. Just put some lube in a small container, dip a small stick (toothpick) into the lube and 'dot' a small amount at the spoke/nipple joint & also where the nipple enters the rim.
When trueing the wheel, if nipples seems stuck, you can add a little more lube where needed.
When trueing the wheel, if nipples seems stuck, you can add a little more lube where needed.
#30
Senior Member
My point is that not a lot is needed, the thread are only about 2mm. Putting a lot on it is unnecessary and will only get to places that it is not useful.
Likes For KCT1986:
#31
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Good morning, got the spoke wrench from Parker tools. was checking to see where my brake pads were binding to the wheel rim. found three areas where it's binding. my questions are, do I work one area at a time and then move on to the next, and, do I work from the center outwards, or it doesn't make a difference. Thanks
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Chicago area
Posts: 2,541
Bikes: Airborne "Carpe Diem", Motobecane "Mirage", Trek 6000, Strida 2, Dahon "Helios XL", Dahon "Mu XL", Tern "Verge S11i"
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 978 Post(s)
Liked 574 Times
in
395 Posts
Good morning, got the spoke wrench from Parker tools. was checking to see where my brake pads were binding to the wheel rim. found three areas where it's binding. my questions are, do I work one area at a time and then move on to the next, and, do I work from the center outwards, or it doesn't make a difference. Thanks
See Park Tools, Sheldon Brown (scroll down to "Tensioning and Truing"). A good, inexpensive, basic source of wheel-building information is Roger Musson's book on Wheelbuilding.
#33
Senior Member
Thread Starter
You should do a little reading up on "Wheel Truing" before you start twisting spoke nipples. It's not difficult, but a systematic approach will give you better results.
See Park Tools, Sheldon Brown (scroll down to "Tensioning and Truing"). A good, inexpensive, basic source of wheel-building information is Roger Musson's book on Wheelbuilding.
See Park Tools, Sheldon Brown (scroll down to "Tensioning and Truing"). A good, inexpensive, basic source of wheel-building information is Roger Musson's book on Wheelbuilding.
#34
I am potato.
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 3,074
Bikes: Only precision built, custom high performance elitist machines of the highest caliber. 🍆
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1765 Post(s)
Liked 1,578 Times
in
910 Posts
Ok. So you found 3 or 4 spots where it rubs. That sounds about do-able. Your question whether or not to fix one before moving on to the next is a smart one. As was the suggestion to read a book on wheel building.
The reason not to fix one rub before moving on to the next rub is that the wheel is a system. It is only a true flat plane when the system is under appropriate (ideally even) tension. As soon as one part or another is under less tension the rim will want to form the shape of a taco. That is to say It may only be a very small handful of spokes in one area that are the problem.
A truing stand will tell you where the deviation is worst. But you don't necessarily know if these spokes are the problem or where the sum of all problems is being made evident. Bring these spokes in line a quarter turn & recheck the wheels true. You may find the tacos bulge has moved. Bring those spokes in line. Re-check. Your taco bulge will move around the rim improving with each iteration until finally is is satisfactorily "flat enough."
It can sometimes be a very long process. Sometimes, it can be a minute or two. It really depends on skill is needed & how much the rim has been abused.
You can do it! Gool luck!
The reason not to fix one rub before moving on to the next rub is that the wheel is a system. It is only a true flat plane when the system is under appropriate (ideally even) tension. As soon as one part or another is under less tension the rim will want to form the shape of a taco. That is to say It may only be a very small handful of spokes in one area that are the problem.
A truing stand will tell you where the deviation is worst. But you don't necessarily know if these spokes are the problem or where the sum of all problems is being made evident. Bring these spokes in line a quarter turn & recheck the wheels true. You may find the tacos bulge has moved. Bring those spokes in line. Re-check. Your taco bulge will move around the rim improving with each iteration until finally is is satisfactorily "flat enough."
It can sometimes be a very long process. Sometimes, it can be a minute or two. It really depends on skill is needed & how much the rim has been abused.
You can do it! Gool luck!
Likes For base2:
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Eugene, Oregon, USA
Posts: 27,600
Mentioned: 217 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 18320 Post(s)
Liked 4,489 Times
in
3,338 Posts
My method,
Locate problem area.
It can be 1 to a dozen spokes. Some people like to do 3 or 4 spokes at a time, but I grab a handful of spokes with the left hand and do them all.
I just go from one end to the other alternating tightening and loosening spokes.
Start with only adjusting spokes 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
If all spokes are loose, you may just tighten.
be wary of radial hops (just tighten or loosen).
also watch the dishing. On the rear, the drive side will be much tighter than the non drive side.
once I have adjusted a group of spokes, spin to check if true and go to the next worse spot which could be back at the same spot.
Locate problem area.
It can be 1 to a dozen spokes. Some people like to do 3 or 4 spokes at a time, but I grab a handful of spokes with the left hand and do them all.
I just go from one end to the other alternating tightening and loosening spokes.
Start with only adjusting spokes 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
If all spokes are loose, you may just tighten.
be wary of radial hops (just tighten or loosen).
also watch the dishing. On the rear, the drive side will be much tighter than the non drive side.
once I have adjusted a group of spokes, spin to check if true and go to the next worse spot which could be back at the same spot.
Likes For CliffordK:
#36
Senior Member
Thread Starter
well, got it done. I just had to make sure that I was loosening and tightening the correct side. I corrected one area, and when I went to spin the wheel, there was no more binding anywhere else which surprised me. I read the articles and watched a couple of the part tool videos, I didn't realize how involved truing a wheel was. I thought there was only lateral truing. anyway, thanks for everyone's input. depending how much I get involved into this, might invest in a truing stand sometime in the future.
Likes For Funkywheels63: