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2013 Cervelo R3, is it still good?

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2013 Cervelo R3, is it still good?

Old 10-09-20, 02:34 PM
  #26  
Iride01 
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Originally Posted by s14_kev
Okay I’ll give that a shot. Also, I’ve read to go lower pressure in the front vs the rear due to less weight being on the front end. Do you think 80f / 90r is a good place to start? Or even lower?
Just try it and see. No one can see or feel what you do on the roads you ride. You'll know pretty quick if it's too low a PSI and you bottom out the tire against the rim when you go over a sharp rise in the pavement. Or if your rear seems to slide out from under you on a fast curve.

I'm only 170 lbs and I put 100F/120R in my tires. I've tried lower several times and never have good times or good feeling legs when I do. But that is not to say that you won't. So give it a try for a dozen or so rides at that PSI. Record your ride data. And take notes of your perceived effort. Then after trying differing pressures, you'll know what works for you.

If your roads are very smooth, higher pressures might be for you. If your roads are rough chip seal then lower pressures might be for you.
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Old 10-09-20, 04:25 PM
  #27  
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The tire pressure is too low when either: the bike feels "squishy" to ride, or you start getting pinch flats.

Definitely the front should get less pressure unless you almost always ride a very aggressive position with a lot of your weight front and low. Because of weight distribution, like you said.

I'd do a series of shorter rides, let 5 psi out between each of them, see what feels best.
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Old 10-09-20, 05:41 PM
  #28  
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Try downloading the Mavic phone app. It has a tire pressure calculator that should give you a good place to start. Options include tire size, rim width, rider weight, tubes vs tubeless, and optimizing for lowest rolling resistance or most comfort/traction.

Is it perfect? No. But it provides a safe place to start. For instance, with tubes it recommends higher pressures (to prevent pinch flats) compared to tubeless. It's all pretty sensible.
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Old 09-07-21, 04:10 PM
  #29  
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2014 Cervelo R3 105 for $1000?

Hi was wondering if I could get some input on a 2013 (not 2014) R3 that I'm considering buying used. Assuming that the size and geometry fits me, is this bike a good deal at $1000? Everything seems to be stock Shimao 105 except for the saddle. The current owner says she bought it new, rode it around 100 miles and has had it in storage for several years. Not sure how easy it is to tell by looking at the wear on the cassette and crank if 100 miles makes sense? She says that the bike is too fast for her which is why she doesn't ride it. She did drop the bike when she tried to get out of the clipless peddles and the bike sustained some cosmetic damage to the right shift as seen in the picture. She says there is no other damage but I would definitely have it inspected by my LBS to make sure as it is full carbon. Bicycle Bluebook has the bike valued around $800-$900 for an excellent condition 2014 R3. Thanks!

Last edited by Mencius101; 09-07-21 at 04:18 PM. Reason: change model year
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Old 09-07-21, 04:38 PM
  #30  
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I had a black R3 with blue stripe and silver logos it was built in in 2014 but it may have been a 13 model year frame, don’t recall. I fit 25’s on it with HED Belgium rims which were considered wide at the time, and then Boyd carbon rims. The tires fit fine but I cant say if 28’s would fit. Get 25’s at least.
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Old 09-07-21, 07:11 PM
  #31  
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I would love to buy a near mint-condition 2013 R3. The only issue is how badly it was hurt in the fall. I can well imagine a person crashing once and being scared of it----it has some pretty sharp handling, I used to joke about how if you sneezed you would find yourself in the opposite lane .....

Check the tires, as well as the cassette and chain rings. 100 miles, I would expect basically no wear .... maybe a tiny amount of the anodizing scraped off on a few chain ring teeth, but no noticeable wear at all ... every tooth should be exactly the same profile, with crisp edges and such.

The big issue is the damage---and until you have ten posts you cannot post pictures. if you have trusted mechanics at a local shop, though, you should be fine.

Of course, offer her $700 or whatever .... maybe $600 and bargain up .... but it all comes don to your preference. if you really want the bike, and really trust it ..... well then,. If it is just okay, lowball her, start at $500 .... after all it is an 8-year-old bike with visible damage and possible invisible damage, etc .... all that bargaining stuff
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Old 09-07-21, 08:59 PM
  #32  
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Thank you for your input and advise regarding the component wear. It does bring more clarity on how I should approach this.
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Old 09-07-21, 11:28 PM
  #33  
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Beauty!!
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