50+ Thoughts on going tubeless.
#51
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 5,879
Bikes: Colnago, Van Dessel, Factor, Cervelo, Ritchey
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3906 Post(s)
Liked 7,182 Times
in
2,905 Posts
A 50+ thread about going tubeless? This is about vasectomies, isn't it?
#52
Veteran, Pacifist
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Seattle area
Posts: 13,305
Bikes: Bikes??? Thought this was social media?!?
Mentioned: 284 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3876 Post(s)
Liked 4,782 Times
in
2,206 Posts
#53
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 53
Bikes: 2020 S-Works Roubaix, Infinity seat
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times
in
14 Posts
The bike is an Argon 18 Disc Di2 with carbon wheels and the original 25’s needed 125 psi. The bike isn’t designed for comfort, but my 67year body was fine with it. It really is much more comfortable with the 28’s at 80. I ride longer because I’m less tired and I think I might be a bit faster,
It might say 125 on the tire sidewall, but that refers to the pressure it might blow off the rim. In other words, the maximum allowable pressure. Not the recommended riding pressure.
If you weigh 350 lbs, including your bike/gear/clothes, Silca's respected calculator says to ride 98 front/100 rear psi. They don't offer calculations over 350 lbs
I ride 85/89 on my Conti 25's w/latex tubes. I weigh 145. Bike 18. Plus 12 for gear/clothes/shoes
https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form?sub...6-619a2df01982
Last edited by bfaIllini; 05-24-21 at 08:41 PM. Reason: Spelling error
#54
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Minas Ithil
Posts: 9,337
Mentioned: 66 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2432 Post(s)
Liked 638 Times
in
395 Posts
https://us.muc-off.com/collections/n...-puncture-plug
#55
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,178
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4274 Post(s)
Liked 4,716 Times
in
2,912 Posts
These replace your bar end plugs. Kind of cool. It even has a trimming knife.
https://us.muc-off.com/collections/n...-puncture-plug
https://us.muc-off.com/collections/n...-puncture-plug
#56
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Central Fl
Posts: 137
Bikes: Argon 18 Gallium, GF 29er, old Trek Madone
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 31 Post(s)
Liked 47 Times
in
29 Posts
With all due respect, you don't "need" 125 psi unless you're a whale.
It might say 125 on the tire sidewall, but that refers to the pressure it might blow off the rim. In other words, the maximum allowable pressure. Not the recommended riding pressure.
If you weigh 350 lbs, including your bike/gear/clothes, Silca's respected calculator says to ride 98 front/100 rear psi. They don't offer calculations over 350 lbs
I ride 85/89 on my Conti 25's w/latex tubes. I weigh 145. Bike 18. Plus 12 for gear/clothes/shoes
https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form?sub...6-619a2df01982
It might say 125 on the tire sidewall, but that refers to the pressure it might blow off the rim. In other words, the maximum allowable pressure. Not the recommended riding pressure.
If you weigh 350 lbs, including your bike/gear/clothes, Silca's respected calculator says to ride 98 front/100 rear psi. They don't offer calculations over 350 lbs
I ride 85/89 on my Conti 25's w/latex tubes. I weigh 145. Bike 18. Plus 12 for gear/clothes/shoes
https://silca.cc/pages/sppc-form?sub...6-619a2df01982
Btw, the tires were great. Over 4,000 miles with one flat on a debris laden road after a strong storm.
#57
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 53
Bikes: 2020 S-Works Roubaix, Infinity seat
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times
in
14 Posts
Thanks for your reply. In the case of Vittoria, on their website, they specifically recommend staying within the range printed on the side of the tire. And of course, a range of 100 - 130 by its nature, isn’t a “maximum allowable pressure”. I’m 6’ 3” / 200 lbs and chose to stay toward the higher end of recommended range. I’m sure I could have gone much lower, but chose to stay with the range recommended by both Vittoria and my lbs.
Btw, the tires were great. Over 4,000 miles with one flat on a debris laden road after a strong storm.
Btw, the tires were great. Over 4,000 miles with one flat on a debris laden road after a strong storm.
I apologize if I came off as a know it all. Whatever works for you is the best for sure.
There is a definite acceptance now, even amongst pros, that softer is better, both for speed and comfort. Pinch flats are the concern of too low, but following the Silca pressure chart, which was designed with input from pro cyclists, probably protects you against those.
Some more good reads:
https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...or-not.356627/
https://www.renehersecycles.com/myth...ure-is-faster/
Enjoy the riding!
Likes For bfaIllini:
#59
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Boulder, CO
Posts: 53
Bikes: 2020 S-Works Roubaix, Infinity seat
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked 25 Times
in
14 Posts
True, but pinch flats are non-existent if tires are properly inflated. That's why, imho, it's important to use the tire pressure guides like Silca, Wahoo etc and not the from the hip methods
#60
Newbie
Some good answers in these Threads. I just got some Stan's Darts but haven't used them.
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...nner-tube.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...-flat-kit.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/road-cycl...nner-tube.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...-flat-kit.html
Likes For alandmor:
#61
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 313
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 123 Post(s)
Liked 83 Times
in
63 Posts
I spent a year with tubelss (or maybe less, I can't remember exactly) before I quit...for me, they were way more trouble than they were worth. Maybe the ones I had were just crappy ones (they were Mavic, that came with a wheel set) but in that year i destroyed THREE of them.
The lower pressure was softer, but no big deal. Since I went back to tubes, I've never once thought of going tubless again.
The lower pressure was softer, but no big deal. Since I went back to tubes, I've never once thought of going tubless again.
#62
Full Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 313
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 123 Post(s)
Liked 83 Times
in
63 Posts
I resisted tubeless for about 5 years and flatting 6-8 times a year. After a particularly bad period of several flats in a short time, I took the plunge. My wheels were tubeless ready so it was just a matter of getting the tires, valves, and sealant. Was a bit of a hassle to set the bead on the first try but i don't expect that to be much trouble going forward. I know from finding sealant on my seatpost, that I have prevented at least one roadside repair so far.
Just to be clear, I would not bother with tubeless if I was getting 1-2 flats a year or less.
Just to be clear, I would not bother with tubeless if I was getting 1-2 flats a year or less.
#63
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 2,028
Bikes: addict, aethos, creo, vanmoof, sirrus, public ...
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1272 Post(s)
Liked 1,382 Times
in
707 Posts
wow, and here i was all set and eager to go tubeless!
i’m riding on 700x32 conti gator hardshells, 50-80psi depending on the ride. 99% road riding. 195lb + 30lb bike and stuff. usually do 20-50 miles, speeds from 10-40, never so far from civilization that i couldn’t uber/lyft my way back from a total disaster, but i got the hardshells because a lot of my riding is through the city, the usual debris in the road, broken glass etc. no flats yet on this setup (about 1000 miles in), knock on wood.
i was planning on going to some lighter, lower RR tires in the same size and setting them up tubeless... but this thread has me thinking it’s too much hassle.
i’m riding on 700x32 conti gator hardshells, 50-80psi depending on the ride. 99% road riding. 195lb + 30lb bike and stuff. usually do 20-50 miles, speeds from 10-40, never so far from civilization that i couldn’t uber/lyft my way back from a total disaster, but i got the hardshells because a lot of my riding is through the city, the usual debris in the road, broken glass etc. no flats yet on this setup (about 1000 miles in), knock on wood.
i was planning on going to some lighter, lower RR tires in the same size and setting them up tubeless... but this thread has me thinking it’s too much hassle.
#64
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 2,343
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 680 Post(s)
Liked 946 Times
in
553 Posts
so if I use stans in my tubes do I need to replace it each year? I know it has plugged some leaks as the tube was stuck to the tire. a couple of times Once I had the wrong pump sealed the tube before I took the tire off when I got home.
#65
Full Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 487
Bikes: Historical: Schwinn Speedster; Schwinn Collegiate; 1981 Ross Gran Tour; 1981 Dawes Atlantis; 1991 Specialized Rockhopper. Current: 1987 Ritchey Ultra; 1987 Centurion Ironman Dave Scott Master; 1992 Specialized Stumpjumper FS
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 207 Post(s)
Liked 178 Times
in
111 Posts
No tubeless for me - I do not flat that much. Kind of like disc brakes - I do not ride in muddy or wet conditions, and know how to use my rim brakes if I do get caught. So I don't see much need for either.
Likes For Chinghis:
#66
Newbie
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Tubeless
On both bikes I put tubeless and replaced OEM wheels on my bianchi with i9 for tubeless. The ride is smooth (can operate at lower pressure if you want) and I've had a few punctures that have filled and allowed me to continue ride and get back home without problem. Peace of mind is one big factor. But I also find with current tires (Hutchinson Sector) I'm getting a very nice ride for long distances. Cons would include that they are slightly more challenging to change with the sealant. I'm sold on tubeless.
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,178
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4274 Post(s)
Liked 4,716 Times
in
2,912 Posts
Yeah, I thought it was "50 thoughts". Ya know, like "50 Ways To Leave Your Lover."
No tubeless for me - I do not flat that much. Kind of like disc brakes - I do not ride in muddy or wet conditions, and know how to use my rim brakes if I do get caught. So I don't see much need for either.
No tubeless for me - I do not flat that much. Kind of like disc brakes - I do not ride in muddy or wet conditions, and know how to use my rim brakes if I do get caught. So I don't see much need for either.
#68
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,178
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4274 Post(s)
Liked 4,716 Times
in
2,912 Posts
Thanks for your reply. In the case of Vittoria, on their website, they specifically recommend staying within the range printed on the side of the tire. And of course, a range of 100 - 130 by its nature, isn’t a “maximum allowable pressure”. I’m 6’ 3” / 200 lbs and chose to stay toward the higher end of recommended range. I’m sure I could have gone much lower, but chose to stay with the range recommended by both Vittoria and my lbs.
Btw, the tires were great. Over 4,000 miles with one flat on a debris laden road after a strong storm.
Btw, the tires were great. Over 4,000 miles with one flat on a debris laden road after a strong storm.
Likes For PeteHski:
#69
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 529 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 255 Times
in
185 Posts
So sealant in a tube probably provides slightly better flat prevention.
Add to this, little mess normally, as the sealant is contained in the tube, and the ability to change the tire, while reusing the tube with sealant in it, instead of needing new sealant.
#70
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,178
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4274 Post(s)
Liked 4,716 Times
in
2,912 Posts
I don't have scientific proof, but my gut feeling is, there would be a small number of punctures that would seal in a tire and tube, but not in a tubeless tire. This is because the sealant would collect in the space between the tire and tube, forming the seal.
So sealant in a tube probably provides slightly better flat prevention.
Add to this, little mess normally, as the sealant is contained in the tube, and the ability to change the tire, while reusing the tube with sealant in it, instead of needing new sealant.
So sealant in a tube probably provides slightly better flat prevention.
Add to this, little mess normally, as the sealant is contained in the tube, and the ability to change the tire, while reusing the tube with sealant in it, instead of needing new sealant.
#71
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 529 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 255 Times
in
185 Posts
Yes.
I have small punctures which the sealant seals, approximately once a month, and large punctures that need to be patched, approximately once a year.
To only need a puncture repair approximately once a year is a real benefit.
With the amount of riding I have been doing recently, I wear out the back tire in a little over a year. The front tire lasts a little longer. So I am talking about one puncture repair in the life of the tire.
The future is unknown. There is a possibility I might have a bad run, with a lot of large punctures in a short time.
I know, different people ride in different environments, and have different numbers of punctures.
I have small punctures which the sealant seals, approximately once a month, and large punctures that need to be patched, approximately once a year.
To only need a puncture repair approximately once a year is a real benefit.
With the amount of riding I have been doing recently, I wear out the back tire in a little over a year. The front tire lasts a little longer. So I am talking about one puncture repair in the life of the tire.
The future is unknown. There is a possibility I might have a bad run, with a lot of large punctures in a short time.
I know, different people ride in different environments, and have different numbers of punctures.
Last edited by alo; 05-28-21 at 04:20 PM.
#72
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,178
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4274 Post(s)
Liked 4,716 Times
in
2,912 Posts
Yes.
I have small punctures which the sealant seals, approximately once a month, and large punctures that need to be patched, approximately once a year.
To only need a puncture repair approximately once a year is a real benefit.
With the amount of riding I have been doing recently, I wear out the back tire in a little over a year. The front tire lasts a little longer. So I am talking about one puncture repair in the life of the tire.
The future is unknown. There is a possibility I might have a bad run, with a lot of large punctures in a short time.
I know, different people ride in different environments, and have different numbers of punctures.
I have small punctures which the sealant seals, approximately once a month, and large punctures that need to be patched, approximately once a year.
To only need a puncture repair approximately once a year is a real benefit.
With the amount of riding I have been doing recently, I wear out the back tire in a little over a year. The front tire lasts a little longer. So I am talking about one puncture repair in the life of the tire.
The future is unknown. There is a possibility I might have a bad run, with a lot of large punctures in a short time.
I know, different people ride in different environments, and have different numbers of punctures.
One thing I’ve always liked about tubeless tyres is the ability to plug them from the outside if you do get a large puncture that the sealant can’t handle. I’ve only ever had to do that with mtb tyres when not running any sealant on Mavic UST rims. Much quicker than changing a tube. But since running sealant I’ve never had to plug any holes since.
#73
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 529 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 255 Times
in
185 Posts
I will explain some more.
When doing this, you get small punctures which seal with sealant. When you do have a large puncture and need a puncture repair, you take the tube out and inflate it to see where the leak is. The tube stretches, and the small holes which have sealed with sealant leak. So instead of patching one just puncture, I have patched several of the larger punctures. I have left the very small ones to seal again with sealant.
I replaced a tire recently and used the same tube. It took several days to stop leaking. Whenever I have that tube out again, I plan to patch the larger holes.
When doing this, you get small punctures which seal with sealant. When you do have a large puncture and need a puncture repair, you take the tube out and inflate it to see where the leak is. The tube stretches, and the small holes which have sealed with sealant leak. So instead of patching one just puncture, I have patched several of the larger punctures. I have left the very small ones to seal again with sealant.
I replaced a tire recently and used the same tube. It took several days to stop leaking. Whenever I have that tube out again, I plan to patch the larger holes.
#74
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Posts: 1,060
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 529 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 255 Times
in
185 Posts
Well since running road tubeless with sealant I haven’t had a single puncture in 18 months. The tubeless tyres I’m running are pretty tough though, so that does help a lot. I don’t think the sealant has had to do any work yet, other than seal around the tyre beads.
One thing I’ve always liked about tubeless tyres is the ability to plug them from the outside if you do get a large puncture that the sealant can’t handle. I’ve only ever had to do that with mtb tyres when not running any sealant on Mavic UST rims. Much quicker than changing a tube. But since running sealant I’ve never had to plug any holes since.
One thing I’ve always liked about tubeless tyres is the ability to plug them from the outside if you do get a large puncture that the sealant can’t handle. I’ve only ever had to do that with mtb tyres when not running any sealant on Mavic UST rims. Much quicker than changing a tube. But since running sealant I’ve never had to plug any holes since.
Maybe you are in an area where there are few things to puncture tires.
Maybe you have had more seal with sealant than you think.
Where I am, there are several types of plants with sharp spikes on them. They are impossible to avoid, if you go where I go.
#75
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Posts: 8,178
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4274 Post(s)
Liked 4,716 Times
in
2,912 Posts
Maybe your tires are more resistant to punctures.
Maybe you are in an area where there are few things to puncture tires.
Maybe you have had more seal with sealant than you think.
Where I am, there are several types of plants with sharp spikes on them. They are impossible to avoid, if you go where I go.
Maybe you are in an area where there are few things to puncture tires.
Maybe you have had more seal with sealant than you think.
Where I am, there are several types of plants with sharp spikes on them. They are impossible to avoid, if you go where I go.