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easton tempest II carbon clinchers vs modern day wheels

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easton tempest II carbon clinchers vs modern day wheels

Old 06-13-21, 10:46 AM
  #1  
halbj613
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need some wheel help (thanks)

first of all hi im new here, ( i live in london in case anyone was interested)

i am planning on upgrading my buckled mavic cosmic elites with a higher quality wheel
my friend offered me a set of easton tempest II carbon clincher wheels (perfect for my bike but around 12 years old)
he claims they are some of the best wheels he has ever ridden
he said he would give them to me for £300 (roughly 350$)
they seemed to be really good back in 2010 but i dunno how they compare to todays wheels (im not a super expert like some of you)
looking for something very durable most of all

if anyone could give some advice it would be super kind.

thanks so much

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Old 06-13-21, 11:44 AM
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i read multiple complimentary reviews about them
they weigh roughly 1.2kg and have the velomax hub (apperently very good)
they are later on when easton made the rims (not zipp which some people had issues with)

im more just wondering where they lie compared to similar priced used wheels today

he wanted to know if i was taking them soon so if anyone can give me a little bit of advice then that would be awesome

thanks so much
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Old 06-13-21, 04:58 PM
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seems expensive for a friendly deal. im sure theyre good wheels but surely u should be able score something similar + cheaper.
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Old 06-13-21, 05:47 PM
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Ask your friend what they cost new or google to find out. If the hubs are in good shape and the wheels otherwise cared for, then you aren't going to find new carbon wheels for that price. You'll have a hard enough time finding decent alloy wheelset for that price. We are talking 2 wheels for £300 total price, right?

Just make sure they work in your bike. Disc brake? Is the rotor the same size? Will your rotor fit that hub?

Maybe even take them to a wheel builder and let him give you a assessment of them. That can't cost but the price of a pint or two.

I'd have a problem with the way Easton splatters their name in huge print on the rims, but if you are okay with it, I'm not going to rib you for it if I see you.
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Old 06-13-21, 11:46 PM
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hi man thanks for the reply
gonna take that to a local expert to check them out

the price is £300 for 2 wheels and they seem to be quite good ones

just making sure i wasnt being ripped off and also that these wheels would actually be an upgrade from my past (mavic ksyriums elites)

these wheels are old so i cant find a new price but they seemed to cost roughly 1.5k back when they were sold
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Old 06-14-21, 04:58 AM
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Originally Posted by hose
seems expensive for a friendly deal. im sure theyre good wheels but surely u should be able score something similar + cheaper.
could you link something similar? all the ones i found for a similar price seemed to be way worse

also anyone got opinions on the velomax hubs? (think r3/r4 hubs)

thanks a lot
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Old 06-14-21, 05:53 AM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
could you link something similar? all the ones i found for a similar price seemed to be way worse

also anyone got opinions on the velomax hubs? (think r3/r4 hubs)

thanks a lot
You aren't going to find better or even equal wheels for less than what you plan to pay.
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Old 06-14-21, 05:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Germany_chris
You aren't going to find better or even equal wheels for less than what you plan to pay.
sorry maybe its just me being thick and not understanding but are you saying these are a good price for £300?

thanks so much
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Old 06-14-21, 06:02 AM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
sorry maybe its just me being thick and not understanding but are you saying these are a good price for £300?

thanks so much

Yes - i was incorrect - buy them before theyre gone.
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Old 06-14-21, 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
sorry maybe its just me being thick and not understanding but are you saying these are a good price for £300?

thanks so much
That wheelset costs less than my new rear hub.
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Old 06-14-21, 01:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Germany_chris
That wheelset costs less than my new rear hub.
maybe you got really expensive rear hubs...

thanks for the help. i went ahead and bought them
gonna have a local guy check out the bearings and everything. hope they work out well

the local bike guy said he cant check the carbon though (doesnt know if its got issues on the inside) is this something i should be concerned about?

thanks so much
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Old 06-14-21, 03:40 PM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
maybe you got really expensive rear hubs...

thanks for the help. i went ahead and bought them
gonna have a local guy check out the bearings and everything. hope they work out well

the local bike guy said he cant check the carbon though (doesnt know if its got issues on the inside) is this something i should be concerned about?

thanks so much
I wouldn't worry. If they look good and damage free except for normal wear and scratches then they should last you a long time.

The wheel guy does regularly work with carbon wheels doesn't he? I'm not a wheel person myself, but I'd think there may be some things a wheel person might do differently, or tension wise with carbon rims as opposed to alloy.

Maybe some of the knowledgeable carbon wheel types will pipe up about that.

But no, I wouldn't worry any more about carbon than my alloy as far as "hidden" damage thing biting you.

You might need to read up casually and find out the things to do and don't with carbon. And where they might give you grief if you like to do high speed mountain descents riding the brakes for miles on end. But that'd probably be bad for alloy too if these are rim brakes instead of disc.

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Old 06-14-21, 04:41 PM
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I'd pass on these. They're old, probably have narrow brake track. These retailed at $850 when they were released, this means they went for $800. And now, your friend wanna sell them for almost half price???
You my chinese carbon 50mm wheels I got for $550 shipped will blow these Easton away.
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Old 06-15-21, 04:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Iride01
I wouldn't worry. If they look good and damage free except for normal wear and scratches then they should last you a long time.

The wheel guy does regularly work with carbon wheels doesn't he? I'm not a wheel person myself, but I'd think there may be some things a wheel person might do differently, or tension wise with carbon rims as opposed to alloy.

Maybe some of the knowledgeable carbon wheel types will pipe up about that.

But no, I wouldn't worry any more about carbon than my alloy as far as "hidden" damage thing biting you.

You might need to read up casually and find out the things to do and don't with carbon. And where they might give you grief if you like to do high speed mountain descents riding the brakes for miles on end. But that'd probably be bad for alloy too if these are rim brakes instead of disc.
thanks for the advice really helpful (gonna do a whole lot more research)
the local guy works with carbon a lot so gonna help with the setting up and everything.
thanks

aclinjury i believe (though i may be wrong) the carbon easton tempest II retailed for well over 1500$ (seen people requesting to buy them back then at that price). maybe you are referring to the aluminium rim version?
the issue with the brake track is not one i had heard of before but they will be set up by a guy who knows what he is doing so i believe he should get it right.
(quote from 2009 (not mine)
Easton Tempest II is sold for 1299€ at Bike-Discount who's normally among the cheapest German webshops
Chain Reaction Cycles in the UK charges 1339€)

thanks so much

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Old 06-15-21, 05:15 AM
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oops

relaised above i said these were clinchers. they arent rather they are the tubular version. dont think that should make a difference (comes with tires installed)
just in case you wanted to know
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Old 06-15-21, 06:08 AM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
oops

relaised above i said these were clinchers. they arent rather they are the tubular version. dont think that should make a difference (comes with tires installed)
just in case you wanted to know
Put some sealant in the tubular which should solve most road issues but you're going to need to carry a pre glued spare tire. There is an art and a process to run tubulars but they can a rewarding tire but keep in mind that good tubulars are more expensive by about 50% than good clinchers.
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Old 06-15-21, 06:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Germany_chris
Put some sealant in the tubular which should solve most road issues but you're going to need to carry a pre glued spare tire. There is an art and a process to run tubulars but they can a rewarding tire but keep in mind that good tubulars are more expensive by about 50% than good clinchers.
any tubulars you can advise?

also how often are punctures gonna take place in tubulars? (way more of a pain to change tire)

thanks for the advice
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Old 06-15-21, 06:50 AM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
any tubulars you can advise?

also how often are punctures gonna take place in tubulars? (way more of a pain to change tire)

thanks for the advice
The puncture as much as any other bicycle tire..

If you've never changed a flat tubular they are far more of a pain than swapping the tube in a clincher. Tubulars also need stretched before being put on the wheel, then you have the glue v tape debate in the end you need to google all this.

I always got most of my tubulars from veloflex, you're going to discover brands like Tufo are cheaper but they also ride badly and a good ride is the reason to ride tubulars in the first place.
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Old 06-15-21, 06:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Germany_chris
The puncture as much as any other bicycle tire..

If you've never changed a flat tubular they are far more of a pain than swapping the tube in a clincher. Tubulars also need stretched before being put on the wheel, then you have the glue v tape debate in the end you need to google all this.

I always got most of my tubulars from veloflex, you're going to discover brands like Tufo are cheaper but they also ride badly and a good ride is the reason to ride tubulars in the first place.
thanks so much.
doing a ton of research into tubulars as this set is my first (tubular set. only had clinchers in past)
only issue i guess is if i have to change on the road.
gonna carry a spare one (i think people carry pre glued) but dunno if it will be easy to end up changing them

one last question which is pretty standard but gonna go ahead and ask is... is it ok to use carbon wheels for non race cycles. a lot of people online say they use carbons for races and intense cycles alone and aluminium ones for day to day cycling. is that a thing or these should be ok?

thanks so much to everyone who helped. really kind of you
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Old 06-15-21, 07:05 AM
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People that use tubulars mostly swear by them. I've heard of few that swear at them. But like tubeless tires, they are a little outside my desire to learn new things and new ways.

You should look at and understand what your tire choices will be if these are tubular rims. I feel that most tubular tires are going to be marketed to those that expect performance and will mostly be high dollar. But I may well be wrong on that. Just an imagination at the moment.
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Old 06-15-21, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by halbj613
thanks so much.
doing a ton of research into tubulars as this set is my first (tubular set. only had clinchers in past)
only issue i guess is if i have to change on the road.
gonna carry a spare one (i think people carry pre glued) but dunno if it will be easy to end up changing them

one last question which is pretty standard but gonna go ahead and ask is... is it ok to use carbon wheels for non race cycles. a lot of people online say they use carbons for races and intense cycles alone and aluminium ones for day to day cycling. is that a thing or these should be ok?

thanks so much to everyone who helped. really kind of you
Yea the tire needs to be pre glued, they're not super hard to get off and you can you a tire lever to pry if needed but generally a little torque from your thumbs will get you there. I'm not a big carbon guy but I'd imagine if they can stand to the demands of the pro's on cobbles and pro cyclocross they'll stand up to and average dude doing average things.

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Old 06-15-21, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Iride01
People that use tubulars mostly swear by them. I've heard of few that swear at them. But like tubeless tires, they are a little outside my desire to learn new things and new ways.

You should look at and understand what your tire choices will be if these are tubular rims. I feel that most tubular tires are going to be marketed to those that expect performance and will mostly be high dollar. But I may well be wrong on that. Just an imagination at the moment.
Quality tubies are ~90 each, good tubies are ~120 each.
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Old 06-15-21, 03:09 PM
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thanks so much for the replies Germany_chris and Iride01

so for the tubulars ive watched lots of videos on changing the tire and think i would manage it.
seen some quality tires mentioned at around 40-50£
i decided to go ahead and get these wheels. hopefully they turn out as well as i am hoping they will.
thanks so much for everybodies input and its been really kind of all of you.
will come back here if i got anymore questions
thanks so much
got lots more to learn but will use my google fu for that.
thank you
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