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sram omniums = best track cranks to choose?

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Old 06-13-12, 01:35 PM
  #26  
FixedFiend626
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Originally Posted by FKMTB07
If you're having longevity issues with your external cup bottom brackets (regardless of the brand), check out your frame. You probably need to have your bottom bracket shell faced. Of the bikes I ride that have external cup bottom brackets there are 2 mountain bikes (both shimano), 1 road bike (Sram), one cyclocross race bike (Sram), one gravel endurance bike (Shimano), one track bike (with Omniums and stock bottom bracket). No longevity or durability issues, but all have had proper frame prep done before being built up.

Sram and Shimano external cup bottom brackets have a fair amount of bearing seal drag when new, but you can't really feel it unless you're spinning the cranks while the bike is on the work stand. The bearing seals break in and the cranks spin very smoothly after that. It's a pretty well-designed and reliable setup, IMO. That being said, I've got a couple of bikes with square taper cranks, one with Octalink, and one with a PF30. No complaints with any of those systems either.
Holy Jesus, how many bikes do you have, 10? I thought my 5 were overkill...
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Old 06-13-12, 01:37 PM
  #27  
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That Look is pretty nuts. Saddle-to-bar drop looks painful, great paintjob though, so French..
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Old 06-13-12, 01:40 PM
  #28  
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i got my omniums used from a buddy and the bb creeks like a mother ****er
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Old 06-13-12, 04:08 PM
  #29  
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Getting your BB faced is a good idea, but it will not solve most people's issues with the GPX. Sram has a long history of putting out stuff before it is ready. I would bet with one more update the GPX will be a very nice set up. But Sram is really good at being the first to do something, and then playing catch up with quality.
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Old 06-13-12, 04:22 PM
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are they even updating it on new omniums anymore? seems like the 2012 changes include some paint on a chainring and the 11 crossed out and a 12 put in its place
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Old 06-13-12, 05:31 PM
  #31  
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Phil/Omniums

Originally Posted by FixedFiend626
The stock BB is actually quite good on these.
Probably not as good as Chris King, but what is..


https://www.philwood.com/products/bbpages/outboard.php#
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Old 06-13-12, 05:39 PM
  #32  
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Ya, good point. Forgot about those. I wonder how the SRAM Red model stacks up against these two, as far as I know the PW and CK don't use ceramic bearings (not that they need to).
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Old 06-14-12, 03:56 AM
  #33  
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Sorry about my late reply. Anyways, here we go:

Originally Posted by carleton
Will you answer these?:

Originally Posted by carleton
Are you racing with these?

Are you strong enough to flex crank sets?
Explain "handling"?

Why are you preoccupied with stiffness? Again, if you aren't strong enough to flex a lesser crankset, then you won't feel the difference of a strong crankset.

This seems like a "I want the best because it's the best" thread. I'm going to move this to SSFG.
I am a competitive rower. We train 10 - 12 times per week. As you might know, most of the power moving the boat (single scull in my case) is coming from the legs, which is why we include 3 - 4 strength sessions per week. Right now my squat is at 153 kilos, which is well over 1.5 times my body weight (87 kilos). I did my last 2k erg test in 6 minutes and 13 seconds, which equals an average power output of about 550 watts. I usually ride my bike to every training session (morning, evening), but now Id like to add in a couple hours of track cyclying per week, as an addition to our regular program and for a bit more variety.
Too many times Ive bought ****ty equipment which failed on me, which is why I am going for quality from the beginning this time. And yeah I can afford it.

Plus, rowers haven broken oars and snapped ergo chains. Why shouldnt we be able to flex crank sets?


But, back to one of my questions, whats up with the Rotor 3D track cranks? Like i wrote they are even more expensive than campy and dura ace. Do they back up their price with quality and performance?

Last edited by BlackPowder; 06-14-12 at 04:38 AM.
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Old 06-14-12, 07:55 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by BlackPowder
Sorry about my late reply. Anyways, here we go:



I am a competitive rower. We train 10 - 12 times per week. As you might know, most of the power moving the boat (single scull in my case) is coming from the legs, which is why we include 3 - 4 strength sessions per week. Right now my squat is at 153 kilos, which is well over 1.5 times my body weight (87 kilos). I did my last 2k erg test in 6 minutes and 13 seconds, which equals an average power output of about 550 watts. I usually ride my bike to every training session (morning, evening), but now Id like to add in a couple hours of track cyclying per week, as an addition to our regular program and for a bit more variety.
Too many times Ive bought ****ty equipment which failed on me, which is why I am going for quality from the beginning this time. And yeah I can afford it.

Plus, rowers haven broken oars and snapped ergo chains. Why shouldnt we be able to flex crank sets?


But, back to one of my questions, whats up with the Rotor 3D track cranks? Like i wrote they are even more expensive than campy and dura ace. Do they back up their price with quality and performance?
Yes, you are strong enough to flex normal cranks I know what you mean about breaking stuff all the time.

Go for Dura-Ace.

The verdict is still out on Rotor. I only know one sprinter who uses them. I think they are expensive simply because of the manufacturing process. I don't think they are better than the current offerings. The Q-factor may be wider than most.
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Old 06-14-12, 09:34 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by BlackPowder
I am a competitive rower.
Where do you row?
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Old 06-14-12, 02:41 PM
  #36  
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Harvard with his twin
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Old 06-14-12, 02:46 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Buy:
- 1 set of steel single chainring bolts with knurled backs (the female part)
- 1 set of steel DOUBLE chainring bolts (MTB guys use these)
- strong super glue. I used Gorilla Glue but any would work I guess.

Use the backs from the singles set and the bolts from the doubles set. The bolts will poke through, but they won't harm anything. Test first though to make sure. I used longer bolts than singles to make sure I got enough purchase on the threads as the crank spider is so thick.

If the knurled backs don't set (probably won't) then glue them in.

That's what I did. Worked fine after that.
Thanks, man!
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Old 06-14-12, 03:03 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by hamfoh
Harvard with his twin
lol'd
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Old 06-14-12, 05:27 PM
  #39  
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Rotor

Originally Posted by BlackPowder

But, back to one of my questions, whats up with the Rotor 3D track cranks?
Like i wrote they are even more expensive than campy and dura ace.
Do they back up their price with quality and performance?
Originally Posted by carleton

Go for Dura-Ace.

The verdict is still out on Rotor.
I only know one sprinter who uses them.
I think they are expensive simply because of the manufacturing process.
I don't think they are better than the current offerings.
The Q-factor may be wider than most.
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...1#post13822909



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Old 06-15-12, 09:10 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Yes, you are strong enough to flex normal cranks I know what you mean about breaking stuff all the time.

Go for Dura-Ace.

The verdict is still out on Rotor. I only know one sprinter who uses them. I think they are expensive simply because of the manufacturing process. I don't think they are better than the current offerings. The Q-factor may be wider than most.

Thanks. Yes I will go for Dura-Ace. I think I will be happy with them.

Where do you row?
Im swiss .. I row for the Lucerne Rowing club, my home town. --> https://rc-reuss.ch/
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Old 06-15-12, 12:15 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by BlackPowder
Sorry about my late reply. Anyways, here we go:



I am a competitive rower. We train 10 - 12 times per week. As you might know, most of the power moving the boat (single scull in my case) is coming from the legs, which is why we include 3 - 4 strength sessions per week. Right now my squat is at 153 kilos, which is well over 1.5 times my body weight (87 kilos). I did my last 2k erg test in 6 minutes and 13 seconds, which equals an average power output of about 550 watts. I usually ride my bike to every training session (morning, evening), but now Id like to add in a couple hours of track cyclying per week, as an addition to our regular program and for a bit more variety.
Too many times Ive bought ****ty equipment which failed on me, which is why I am going for quality from the beginning this time. And yeah I can afford it.

Plus, rowers haven broken oars and snapped ergo chains. Why shouldnt we be able to flex crank sets?


But, back to one of my questions, whats up with the Rotor 3D track cranks? Like i wrote they are even more expensive than campy and dura ace. Do they back up their price with quality and performance?
Jesus, I forgot how bad 2K tests sucked. I think my fastest was 7:07. Then again, I was 15. Then again, again, I was in the best shape of my life. Feels bad, man.
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Old 06-15-12, 12:17 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by carleton
Further...

If you have the budget to afford Sugino Grand Mighty cranks, then you can also get Dura Ace cranks.

If you aren't racing get the ones that look best and match your build because you'll never have to do standing starts, high RPM work, or deal with multiple gear changes during a training session. Changing gears using the stock Omnium bolts is a pain in the butt. Plus knurled chainring bolts don't work on them either. Only superglue.
I would like to know more, I almost bought the omnomnoms
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Old 06-15-12, 12:18 PM
  #43  
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reeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaad
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Old 06-15-12, 12:26 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Nagrom_
reeeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaaad
+1
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Old 06-15-12, 12:48 PM
  #45  
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you are changing your main chainring on the fly? dizamn

I thought I had read in a thread that the octalink bb wasn't ideal for brakeless start/stop riding or something. did I imagine that? is it true?
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Old 06-15-12, 12:50 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by hamfoh
you are changing your main chainring on the fly? dizamn
On the track, you might change it a couple times a session, and this thread started in the track sub, so it was a relevant concern.

Here, not so much.
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Old 06-15-12, 01:09 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by hamfoh
you are changing your main chainring on the fly? dizamn

I thought I had read in a thread that the octalink bb wasn't ideal for brakeless start/stop riding or something. did I imagine that? is it true?
Probably an old thread. Back in 2004/2005 people thought that. It's not true.
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Old 06-15-12, 06:11 PM
  #48  
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Octalink

Originally Posted by BlackPowder
Thanks. Yes I will go for Dura-Ace. I think I will be happy with them.
make sure you carefully line up the splines.fyi.
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Old 06-16-12, 10:04 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by solipsist716
Jesus, I forgot how bad 2K tests sucked. I think my fastest was 7:07. Then again, I was 15. Then again, again, I was in the best shape of my life. Feels bad, man.
Yeah 2k erg test are the most painful thing Ive ever done. Ever. Nothing even comes close. Still, after youre all done and showered it feels great =)
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Old 06-16-12, 02:32 PM
  #50  
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one last thing, anybody know how much the Grand Mighty Crankset weighs? .. google wouldnt answer it / I only found the shipping weight..
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