duckbuster

I haven't posted in a while as I have been out of the loop for a few years but am getting back into cycling, and have a question about updating the drivetrain on my bike. I currently have a 2005 Giant OCR1 with a full Ultegra 9 speed triple group. I would like to move to an 11 speed double. I have already bought most of the components that I think I will need. I have bought Shimano 105 11 speed RD7000 mid cage rear derailleur, a 105 11-32 cassette, an 11 speed 105 rd7000 front derailleur, 105 rd7000 11 speed shifters. where I'm stuck is the crank. I was looking at a FSA gossamer pro 48/32 and the issue I have is will the BB386EVO bottom bracket fit on my bike? I know that the bike bottom bracket is 68mm with an english thread. So the ten thousand dollar question is will the BB386EVO bottom bracket fit my bike. One of my goals is to get a bike geared low enough for the mountains where I live and my riding style. Any help would be appreciated.

shelbyfv

Not what you asked, but is your freehub 11 speed compatible? If not, you'll need to use the 11-34 cassette, it will fit the older freehubs.
If you go to the 34t, you can use a normal Shimano 50-34 and HT2 bottom bracket and have the same easiest gear.

spelger

I thought the issue with 11 speed was more about width.

shelbyfv

That's correct. The 11-34 and larger are offset to the inside and will fit on the older freehubs.

Iride01 

A BB386EVO is press fit isn't it? Your BB is probably threaded and you even say it's 68mm english threaded. I don't know if what you might be looking at saying it's a 386EVO might also be a converter or something that fits within the BSA threaded BB shell you appear to have. So if that's the case you need to say the exact make and model BB you are looking at.

You might look at some other cranks. Why not Shimano and keep all your components the same?

alcjphil

If your bike has a braze on type front derailleur hanger, you may not be able to position it low enough for a 48 tooth big ring. As well, your brake callipers may not work well with your new brake levers. You will find that it requires more effort to stop because the new levers have less mechanical advantage than your old ones.

SpedFast

Before upgrading that OCR1 I would look into buying a used bike with all the components and gear ratios that you want. There are a lot out there recently. Good luck,

duckbuster

Thank you for the replies, I figured which bb to get after a bunch of research on FSA’s website.

sweeks

This can be corrected by installing "travel agents"... a bit of a nuisance, but works well.



You can see the "travel agent" at the top of the brake arm. This makes the STI shifters compatible with the XTR brakes. BTW, this bike has an Ultegra 3x9 drivetrain which I have no plans to "update". :-)

alcjphil

OP's bike doesn't have v-brakes.

sweeks

Oops! Perhaps there's a different way to adapt? There used to be an "in-line" version. Even *more* of a nuisance, but better than weak brakes perhaps...

alcjphil

Solution is to use brake calipers that match the brake levers

Camilo

Or try the levers and calipers, they may be acceptable, of not optimal.

alcjphil

I suppose that depends on whether you want every stop to be white knuckle experience. Mating older Shimano brake callipers with current brake/shift levers means that you will need very strong hands to deal with the reduced mechanical advantage of the new levers. Current brake calipers are designed to work properly with them

Bike Gremlin

I was able to combine an 11-speed Shimano MTB cassette (with a rather large largest sprocket, can't remember the exact tooth count) and 11-speed Ultegra road STIs and RD.
Had to use a RD hanger extender (like those Wolf Tooth makes). A short video on that:

Pairing Shimano 11speed MTB cassette with a road groupset

That cassette (MTB 11-speed) fits the hubs that accept 9 speed cassettes. Some road 11-speed cassettes (with the largest sprocket of up to 34 teeth if memory serves me) need a wider freehub to fit, but those with large(r) largest sprockets, designated as MTB, don't need a wider freehub - the largest sprockets on those cassettes hang over (above) the flange a bit, they are far enough to not get stuck against the flange and the spokes coming out of it.

Regarding the BB386EVO cranks - as far as I know (haven't tested to 100% confirm), there are adapters. Like this one (Amazon affiliate link).
(my list of BB / Cranks compatibility combos - if one sources the right adapters)

sweeks

Yes; black anodized brake arms and natural aluminum levers just don't get along.

Seriously... match how? Isn't this a matter of relative "pull ratios" of the levers and arms? Travel agents are one way to address discrepancies that I'm familiar with. I'm not a professional bicycle mechanic, so I'm curious to know in what other ways brake components can "match". Thanks!

shelbyfv

The last couple of generations of Shimano road calipers and levers have some variations in pull. You have SLR, Super SLR, etc, etc. This is not as pronounced as the traditional V brake/road lever incompatibility but it exists.https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?t=141578

Camilo

Which is why I said they "may" be acceptable. If you've had an actual white knuckle experience with that combo, I would defer to that experience.

But, since I've not had experience with that exact combination, my tendency would be to give them a try before dismissing them as incompatible. I've actually had fine results mixing and matching road levers and calipers of different brands, different eras, etc. Might not have been perfect, but fine without unusual strength needed. Maybe this particular combination wouldn't work.. Note: not making any such claim about mixing road levers with something obviously incompatible like V brakes. That is distinctly not acceptable to me - without a travel agent.

sweeks

Thanks! That is helpful.

Bike Gremlin

I think similarly.

V-brake levers with road brakes provide such poor mechanical advantage that even the strongest grip of the levers doesn't produce high braking power.
LIkewise, V-brakes with road bike brake levers doesn't allow for enough brake-pad movement, so your lever hits the bars before the pads are pushed hard against the rim (if you could run the pads at just a fraction of a mm away from the rim, and make the whole system flex very little - like disc brakes - this could actually work well, providing a huge amount of mechanical advantage, but since that's not the case, it's a poor combination).

Those are the combos where the difference in lever's cable pull, and the brake caliper design (how much cable pull they are designed for) are vastly different.

With different road brakes (Shimano SLR plus, super, whatever), these differences aren't nearly as big. So you might get a bit lower brake pad travel (with a bit greater mechanical advantage) - and vice-versa (depending on the combo). But it's not that huge to prevent proper function and hard braking.

The way I see it, SLR stuff is designed in order to provide decent braking for people who brake from the tops (using their smallest few fingers to operate the brakes, with their hands on the tops of the levers). So if you have bars that are too low, and you ride on the tops most of the time, this road lever-road brake mismatch can be a problem. I see too many people with handlebars put so low, "racy" looking, that they aren't able to ride comfortably in the drops. If that's your setup - then compatibility is of great importance. If, on the other hand, your setup is such that you (can) use drops when braking hard, it's not a problem (unless your hands are really weak - no shame in that, there are options and they solve that problem).