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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

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Show Your Vintage MTB Drop Bar Conversions

Old 11-24-21, 06:22 AM
  #7251  
Byebyebayern
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Originally Posted by cb400bill View Post
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Thanks, i already was a bit frustrated because of the "10-post-limitation". I appreciate it.

Now you can see my beauty
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Old 11-24-21, 01:47 PM
  #7252  
ofajen
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Originally Posted by himespau View Post
How do they feel? I have a pair, but haven't mounted them yet. I pulled them out of the packaging and they seemed a bit plastick-y
Iíve tried out the RRLs recently on my SS road bike.

The positives were that they gave me several good semi-aero options, and worked very well for those positions.

The negatives are that they ended up giving a longer reach in a more standard hood position than I wanted for a given bar reach and that they didnít suit my hands as well for riding out of the saddle. That latter thing is key for SS.

So, oddly enough, Iím back to using non-aero levers from an old Schwinn, since they give the right reach and really suit my hands for riding out of the saddle. YMMV. Some people really like the RRLs.

Otto
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Old 11-25-21, 09:41 AM
  #7253  
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Originally Posted by Byebyebayern View Post
Moreover these maxxis crossmark look good but feel like glue on the street. Which ones Do you think i should take? Conti speed king or Conti Grand Prix? I really want it as fast as possible.

It's bit small so a drop bar would make it even more uncomfortable for me. But damn that would look amazing.
Personally, Iíd go with Speed King. Your bike was designed for roughly 2Ē wide tires and the handling will be different with skinny tires.

I have a RockHopper that is running a Speed King in back and a Race King in front (for stability in loose or soft conditions) and they are about as fast as you can get.

If you are a glutton for punishment, you can use the RH Rat Trap Pass, but be prepared for an ordeal any time you need to install or remove a tire. My Speed King, in contrast, comes off without tire levers.

As far as bars go, I ran the RockHopper with drops for a few years but it always seemed to handle sluggishly and then when I switched to single speed I really noticed my leverage wanting when riding out of the saddle.

For the last year and a bit, Iíve been running it with a long stem (150mm) and North Road style touring bars. I have them set down about 2 to 3 inches below the saddle, and it really works out great for riding on roads and smooth trails.







Otto

Last edited by ofajen; 12-08-21 at 10:43 PM.
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Old 11-25-21, 09:42 AM
  #7254  
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Some great looking bikes

I done a budget conversion of an old steel mtb to a single speed with bullhorns earlier this year, but decided I'd prefer to have a drop bar. Internet searches on drop bar mtb's landed me on around page 170 of this thread and I've spent the last few weeks reading and looking at all the nice conversions and finally made it to the end!

I had a set of Shimano Claris brifters but wasn't sure if they would work with my brakes. The info in this thread helped me determine that they would as I have cantilevers.

The bike is now built up, just waiting on some cheap 26x1.95 tyres to arrive.

I'll ride it a bit as a single speed drop bar, but will probably put gears on.

Info on here says that my 8 speed claris brifters should work with an 8 speed lx rear derailleur? I still have the triple chainset up front but will probably just use the big ring and leave it as 8 speed.

Will post some pics when I get my 10 posts.
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Old 11-27-21, 03:03 PM
  #7255  
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Reynolds 531 frame as single speed.

Added drop bars. Since this photo I've flipped the stem and have a bit more coming out of the frame as the drops were very low.
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Old 11-29-21, 04:16 AM
  #7256  
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Originally Posted by lhill View Post
When you do a drop bar conversion, how do you handle the V brake cable pull? I have read that the STI levers used with the drop bars do not pull enough cable to activate the V brakes versus a road bike center mount caliper type rim brake. Thanks for any info!
You have a few options.

Tektro RL520 V-brake specific drop bar levers.

Swap out the V-brakes for cantis and use your brifters.

Keep your V-brakes and use Ďtravel agentsí to pull more cable with your brifters.

Swap out your V-brakes for Ďmini-Vsí, if you have the tyre clearance.


If you want to keep your drivetrain with its existing shifters, there are drop bars available with MTB tubing diameter that will enable you to mount them. Typically road drop bars are a wider tubing gauge and MTB shifters wonít fit (without some serious grinding)

Best of luck!
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Old 11-29-21, 07:44 AM
  #7257  
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Originally Posted by grosey View Post
Reynolds 531 frame as single speed.

Added drop bars. Since this photo I've flipped the stem and have a bit more coming out of the frame as the drops were very low.
That is a nice old steel MTB. Any idea of the make and model? 531!?
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Old 11-29-21, 08:24 AM
  #7258  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
That is a nice old steel MTB. Any idea of the make and model? 531!?
Peugeot made the 531-tubed Europe Express in the '80s but the one I had sported a chainstay-mounted U-brake. No idea if later versions (if any) went to a rear canti.

I thought the original trek 850, which this bike resembles, was built of 531.
*edit*
Nope. Tange.

Last edited by thumpism; 11-29-21 at 08:28 AM.
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Old 11-29-21, 12:19 PM
  #7259  
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Originally Posted by Classtime View Post
That is a nice old steel MTB. Any idea of the make and model? 531!?
I've no idea of the make and model. I've looked but cannot see any numbers on the frame.

The bike was pulled from a skip around 2005 by my dad and fixed up and used on the road. I took it then in 2013 for commuting for a few years, then resurrected it again this summer and decided to convert it.
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Old 11-29-21, 12:26 PM
  #7260  
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Originally Posted by lhill View Post
When you do a drop bar conversion, how do you handle the V brake cable pull? I have read that the STI levers used with the drop bars do not pull enough cable to activate the V brakes versus a road bike center mount caliper type rim brake. I converted my vintage Peugeot from down tube shifting to MicroShift levers, but the brakes were a non-issue. I would love to convert my hybrid to drop bar, but the brakes are holding me back. Thanks for any info!
I convert from V brakes to cantilevers since the mounting posts work for either. I then just add a cable stop that attaches to the seat post clamp for the rear brake, and one on the steerer tube for the front.
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Old 12-04-21, 07:18 PM
  #7261  
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Iíve this cool Raleigh sitting around. Attempting a drop bar.

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Old 12-05-21, 10:53 AM
  #7262  
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I posted my 83 Stumpjumper before, this is how it ended up, for now anyway.
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Old 12-05-21, 04:16 PM
  #7263  
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My recent auction puchased Moab 2, with a drop conversion. I pulled the Rockshox and installed this trials fork with the same ACD. Stem is an On-one UK version of the VO Cigne, flared bars are the house-branded ones off my Polygon. Long-pull Tektro levers and 8spd Shimano barcons round out the changes from stock. Will have to swap to a rd FD at some point if I keep it, or set it up as a wide double; since the barcons don't pull enough for the old STX FD.
Ride-wise, it really, really reminds me of when the Fargos first came out. It's stupidly comfy on the road getting to the trails and was not bad offroad. Still, I don't know if I'll keep it this way. The compact geometry and yard-long seatpost is just too aesthetically radical for me.



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Old 12-06-21, 01:05 PM
  #7264  
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Originally Posted by Kdogbikes View Post
Iíve this cool Raleigh sitting around. Attempting a drop bar.
I like the aesthetic, but I feel like you're asking for a bike to fall over and break something - a picture, a stereo component or LP, an aquarium...
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Old 12-08-21, 08:55 PM
  #7265  
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Anyone have a retrofit derailleur recommendation to replace my oh-so-fancy 100GS mech? It's 30 years old, friction shifted; however, the springs are tired enough that it won't grab the fastest gear. Figured it's time for an upgrade
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Old 12-08-21, 08:57 PM
  #7266  
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Or, on a completely different note: I have a 12spd derailleur collecting dust in my parts bin and was wondering if anyone has tried putting a derailleur from a wide-range drivetrain onto an 8 spd cassette?
Indexing won't be an issue since I'm friction shifting, and the chain looks like it should fit.
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Old 12-08-21, 09:37 PM
  #7267  
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Originally Posted by cjm1347 View Post
Or, on a completely different note: I have a 12spd derailleur collecting dust in my parts bin and was wondering if anyone has tried putting a derailleur from a wide-range drivetrain onto an 8 spd cassette?
Indexing won't be an issue since I'm friction shifting, and the chain looks like it should fit.
12 speed? do you mean from a 12 speed bike...ie. 2 gears up front and 6 in the back? or a derailleur for a 12 speed cassette?
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Old 12-08-21, 10:25 PM
  #7268  
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
12 speed? do you mean from a 12 speed bike...ie. 2 gears up front and 6 in the back? or a derailleur for a 12 speed cassette?
12 spd meaning 1x12. Itís a GX mech. Iím planning on trying it out as the width does look like it will accommodate an 8spd chain. I think the main issue will be the longer cage causing binding in the easiest gears on the current 8 speed cassette, at least until I get a longer chain.
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Old 12-08-21, 10:36 PM
  #7269  
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Originally Posted by cjm1347 View Post
12 spd meaning 1x12. Itís a GX mech. Iím planning on trying it out as the width does look like it will accommodate an 8spd chain. I think the main issue will be the longer cage causing binding in the easiest gears on the current 8 speed cassette, at least until I get a longer chain.
ah! thanks for clarifying unfortunately, i have no experience with 11 or 12 spd technology. in short, i can't advise you the derailleur. sorry. anything before that, i can help..lol. someone here will be able to, though. you might try over in the bicycle mechanics subforum, too. the folks that frequent there deal mostly with modern equipment
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Old 12-08-21, 11:17 PM
  #7270  
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
ah! thanks for clarifying unfortunately, i have no experience with 11 or 12 spd technology. in short, i can't advise you the derailleur. sorry. anything before that, i can help..lol. someone here will be able to, though. you might try over in the bicycle mechanics subforum, too. the folks that frequent there deal mostly with modern equipment
Not entirely clear on your intent but some things to consider... (food for thought)

The 1x12 derailleur will work as a friction derailleur BUT shifting between more than 7 or 8 cogs requires a lot of precision. So a 1x12 friction drivetrain would require accurate shifting and trimming.

The freehub body for a 12 speed cassette is much wider than 8 speed which is wider than 7 speed. SRAM 12 speed cassettes require the XR freehub body which would not fit on any of the vintage hubs. Shimano 11 speed cassettes have the same splines as 7 speed so maybe one could fit 9 or 10 of the 11 speed cogs onto a 7 speed freehub???

12 speed chainrings & cogs are MUCH narrower than the 7 speed chainrings & cogs so the 12spd chains are much narrower. The derailleur's jockey wheels are designed to match the chain width. So putting a 12

The pull ration of 12 speed derailleurs is incompatible with 7 speed shifters - indexing would not work.
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Old 12-08-21, 11:20 PM
  #7271  
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Originally Posted by NocoRider View Post
Not entirely clear on your intent but some things to consider... (food for thought)

The 1x12 derailleur will work as a friction derailleur BUT shifting between more than 7 or 8 cogs requires a lot of precision. So a 1x12 friction drivetrain would require accurate shifting and trimming.

The freehub body for a 12 speed cassette is much wider than 8 speed which is wider than 7 speed. SRAM 12 speed cassettes require the XR freehub body which would not fit on any of the vintage hubs. Shimano 11 speed cassettes have the same splines as 7 speed so maybe one could fit 9 or 10 of the 11 speed cogs onto a 7 speed freehub???

12 speed chainrings & cogs are MUCH narrower than the 7 speed chainrings & cogs so the 12spd chains are much narrower. The derailleur's jockey wheels are designed to match the chain width. So putting a 12

The pull ration of 12 speed derailleurs is incompatible with 7 speed shifters - indexing would not work.
my intent was to try and help the fellow with the questions. iow's, i'm not the one in need of advice. however, your post is certainly informative and i will learn something i didn't know
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Old 12-08-21, 11:49 PM
  #7272  
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Originally Posted by thook View Post
my intent was to try and help the fellow with the questions. iow's, i'm not the one in need of advice. however, your post is certainly informative and i will learn something i didn't know
Sorry my bad. I grabbed the wrong text in the quote. My comments were intended for the original question.
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Old 12-09-21, 12:44 AM
  #7273  
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Originally Posted by NocoRider View Post
Sorry my bad. I grabbed the wrong text in the quote. My comments were intended for the original question.
lol...ahhh, okay. no problem
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Old 12-10-21, 01:46 PM
  #7274  
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Originally Posted by cjm1347 View Post
Anyone have a retrofit derailleur recommendation to replace my oh-so-fancy 100GS mech? It's 30 years old, friction shifted; however, the springs are tired enough that it won't grab the fastest gear. Figured it's time for an upgrade
I keep an eye out for the late 1980s Deore XT, DX, and LX product line. I find them on donor bikes or at co ops. Last upgraded my 1988 Cimarron with a 1990 Shogun Prairie Breaker donor bike. It was full Deore XT. I. have since changed the brake calipers to Pauls that came off another donor, and changed the levers as well. The Cimarron started as a $15 garage sale bike in slap wore out/deplorable condition. Still has original paint with my noticeable touch up work.



Last edited by wrk101; 12-10-21 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 12-12-21, 08:44 AM
  #7275  
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Ready to ride. 1996 Trek Singletrack 930

With 3x7 microshift levers, bars and new Cinelli bar tape. Total budget on this one came in at $245 which includes $80 worth of labor at the LBS not including the brooks saddle.




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