New Bike Day - Colnago Elegant
#26
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Update pic - I got new pedals, tires, tubes, and bar tape installed, dropped the stem a bit, and repaired the wheel with a busted spoke. I polished the deep scratches from the Campagnolo seat post and I'll reinstall it once I get a new saddle. Maiden voyage this morning went well, I picked up 1.5mph average over the Dawes Galaxy on a route I did 9/16. This bike is FAST and responsive. I hope the paint scheme grows on me I do think I may take it to Alan Wanta in Clearwater and let him repair the dent, chrome, etc. I just want to give it a few more rides before I decide.
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The whole fork was not intended to be chrome. The fork blades were painted at one time. The only parts of the fork that were supposed to show any chrome after it was painted was the fork crown and dropouts. The reason that the middle of the fork is chromed is because it is much easier to dunk the whole fork in the tank than doing it twice on each end and then trying to taper where the chrome ends on each end. You will notice that the fork blades are not polished because there was no need because that part gets painted.
My guess is that the paint on the fork got badly chipped and it looked a lot better to take all the paint off. Paint doesn't stick well to chrome so it will chip more easily.
My guess is that the paint on the fork got badly chipped and it looked a lot better to take all the paint off. Paint doesn't stick well to chrome so it will chip more easily.
OP: if this is indeed the case (and I've seen this dull look as a result of the steel wool approach a time or two), it will probably not come back; I'd go the route of matching the frame paint, painting the legs, and leaving the crown chrome.
DD
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Update pic - I got new pedals, tires, tubes, and bar tape installed, dropped the stem a bit, and repaired the wheel with a busted spoke. I polished the deep scratches from the Campagnolo seat post and I'll reinstall it once I get a new saddle. Maiden voyage this morning went well, I picked up 1.5mph average over the Dawes Galaxy on a route I did 9/16. This bike is FAST and responsive. I hope the paint scheme grows on me I do think I may take it to Alan Wanta in Clearwater and let him repair the dent, chrome, etc. I just want to give it a few more rides before I decide.
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
#30
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Looks really good as-is at this point in time!
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Update pic - I got new pedals, tires, tubes, and bar tape installed, dropped the stem a bit, and repaired the wheel with a busted spoke. I polished the deep scratches from the Campagnolo seat post and I'll reinstall it once I get a new saddle. Maiden voyage this morning went well, I picked up 1.5mph average over the Dawes Galaxy on a route I did 9/16. This bike is FAST and responsive. I hope the paint scheme grows on me I do think I may take it to Alan Wanta in Clearwater and let him repair the dent, chrome, etc. I just want to give it a few more rides before I decide.
I think you're really getting the hang of this.
looks like it cleaned up plenty ok and looks good from here.
I would paint the fork and ride it like you stole it, which I hope you did at least a bit.
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hah, thanks! It was a blast to ride today, just a quick hour trip as I had to catch a flight this afternoon. I think I need to make some fit adjustments once I replace the saddle (move the seat forward or aft) but otherwise consider it a success. I do want to try to find some period correct bottle cages, maybe the Elite Ciussi in silver or black? I don’t think carbon would look right
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Gonna disagree and say I'm sure the fork is in its original, fully-chromed condition. However, at some point in its life, the fork was neglected and ended up rust-spotted along the legs in the dull middle portion - I think somebody tried to "fix" it by using too coarse a grade of steel wool or perhaps even sandpaper. The dull look is a result of using the wrong material to knock down the rust.
OP: if this is indeed the case (and I've seen this dull look as a result of the steel wool approach a time or two), it will probably not come back; I'd go the route of matching the frame paint, painting the legs, and leaving the crown chrome.
DD
OP: if this is indeed the case (and I've seen this dull look as a result of the steel wool approach a time or two), it will probably not come back; I'd go the route of matching the frame paint, painting the legs, and leaving the crown chrome.
DD
I believe you are correct, there are some deep scratches on the forks. I may see what Alan thinks, I’ve been doing a little bit of research and it “appears” there is a spray on chrome finish that could be applied. If that is an option I may do that just to keep it in its original appearance. If not, then I may paint it at some point but will probably ride it for a while as is
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This always gets compliments, light purple, dark pink, you decide.
It is fantastic in person, IMO.
Both Merz, and then Gordon (after he hung out with Jim while he was in Eugene) had their sponsored riders on pink bikes.
Last edited by merziac; 10-03-22 at 05:35 PM.
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My go to in these situations is to take bike to an automotive paint shop.
I watched a video of a guy using wet-dry sandpaper (1500 but recommended 2000) but I'm afraid to do it. Trying the turtle wax for now, at least for a couple of days, then will go to the evaporust next. Will incrementally try to fix it. I need to find some touch-up paint (purple) for where it is chipping off. Is that something I can get at Auto-Zone, etc. or is there a specific place you all go for bicycle specific touch up paint?
#37
framebuilder
Just so you know, paint used on bicycle frames often has some kind of translucent to it. The primer and the sealer (if they used a sealer after the primer was applied) can effect the top color. In fact an undercut of white is often used to give the top color more pop. That is why it can be difficult to match a paint color (since paint colors are usually not totally opaque blocking out what is underneath) without applying the right color of undercoat first. I don't have any special insight into Italian paints but I'd place odds to get this color tight, you will have to lay down a white primer before the dark blue. In fact Italians at one time liked to use chrome as an undercoat to enhance the top coat. Of course that made the paint chip more easily since the top color wouldn't have the adhesion qualities of a primer.
This is why I'd recommend taking it to Alan and have him experiment with options he has in stock. He might have to try out several combinations before it comes out right.
This is why I'd recommend taking it to Alan and have him experiment with options he has in stock. He might have to try out several combinations before it comes out right.
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#38
framebuilder
Gonna disagree and say I'm sure the fork is in its original, fully-chromed condition. However, at some point in its life, the fork was neglected and ended up rust-spotted along the legs in the dull middle portion - I think somebody tried to "fix" it by using too coarse a grade of steel wool or perhaps even sandpaper. The dull look is a result of using the wrong material to knock down the rust.
OP: if this is indeed the case (and I've seen this dull look as a result of the steel wool approach a time or two), it will probably not come back; I'd go the route of matching the frame paint, painting the legs, and leaving the crown chrome.
DD
OP: if this is indeed the case (and I've seen this dull look as a result of the steel wool approach a time or two), it will probably not come back; I'd go the route of matching the frame paint, painting the legs, and leaving the crown chrome.
DD
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Oh, I know how the paint process goes for finishes such as this. I also know the various ways chrome is done; no stranger to how these two-wheeled machines are finished. The reason for my suggestion: the early Precisa forks were predominantly chrome, and a frame with a 3/4 chromed rear triangle would sport a fully-chromed fork at Colnago. A partly-painted fork, in the case of the OP's frame, wouldn't fit the aesthetic. Also, I've used steel wool and sandpaper on chrome in experimentation during a refinish and the results looked exactly like the OP's fork. Note, too, the same exact kind of brushed finish on the driveside seatstay surrounding the dent. I bet the dent-less other side has pristine chrome.
It looks like it spent some hard time on a trainer, and was put away wet a number of times.
Just pointing out the details I see in the photos and what they tell me based on experience. And this photo seems to support my chrome-to-paint ratio claim:
Edit: Added photo
DD
It looks like it spent some hard time on a trainer, and was put away wet a number of times.
Just pointing out the details I see in the photos and what they tell me based on experience. And this photo seems to support my chrome-to-paint ratio claim:
Edit: Added photo
DD
Last edited by Drillium Dude; 10-04-22 at 12:21 AM.
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I think I would have the fork rechromed by a reputable plater. That bike would really benefit and I think the other imperfections could be addressed by the owner. The wonderful ride from this bike is good no matter what and no matter what , it will still ride the same. I have patina bikes , but my Colnago was the first bike I wanted to have done. I purchased it from another BF member and knew the good and not so good going in. I rode it for a year, perfect fit , fun to ride with no structural issues. I loved the color , even though it showed many chips , scratches , and dullness. While I was putting it together I just polished as best as I could. When I decided to get it painted , I went with Franklin Frames in Ohio and had the color matched . Jack knows them well and has a source for the correct decals.
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hah, thanks! It was a blast to ride today, just a quick hour trip as I had to catch a flight this afternoon. I think I need to make some fit adjustments once I replace the saddle (move the seat forward or aft) but otherwise consider it a success. I do want to try to find some period correct bottle cages, maybe the Elite Ciussi in silver or black? I don’t think carbon would look right
Beautiful bike though.
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@ericlowney
This is my go to, scrub, slather, let dry, slather again, let dry and scrub with fresh, repeat as necessary.
This is my go to, scrub, slather, let dry, slather again, let dry and scrub with fresh, repeat as necessary.
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#43
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Brass wool is useless in many nasty cases but certainly has its place.
It depends, of course you don't want to use steel wool on nice or decent chrome, nobody was advocating that but you can use 0000 and 00000 in many cases if you know what you're doing and have perfected a certain process as some do.
I have used it with every medium for many different materials to great effect in many cases,, steel wool, scotch brite, brass, stainless and plastic brushes on all forms of chrome, aluminum and steel.
It and many other products can really improve some very crappy surfaces once you find a good technique and process.
Elbow grease is the one true constant, that and starting out easy, often the chemical will do the work, if not, then you lean in slowly and carefully until you start to get results then back off and make sure you don't need to go more aggressive.
I have salvaged and made presentable again scores of parts and surfaces with so many different combinations of the above, very often times with great results.
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Another nice, modern cage - which has a vintage vibe - are the tubular Ti and stainless steel versions by Blackburn. Crazy light (especially the Ti version), and the perfect minimalist shape. Here's a pic of them with the parts which went back onto the Casati:
They look a lot like these Elite Ciuissi cages, also in stainless steel - another good choice:
DD
They look a lot like these Elite Ciuissi cages, also in stainless steel - another good choice:
DD
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Another nice, modern cage - which has a vintage vibe - are the tubular Ti and stainless steel versions by Blackburn. Crazy light (especially the Ti version), and the perfect minimalist shape. Here's a pic of them with the parts which went back onto the Casati:
They look a lot like these Elite Ciuissi cages, also in stainless steel - another good choice:
DD
They look a lot like these Elite Ciuissi cages, also in stainless steel - another good choice:
DD
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#46
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Just wanted to share an update picture. Cages, saddle, seat post, seat bag, stem, and handlebars are all changed and the bike is it’s final form! Hope to ride tomorrow to see how much better it feels with the shorter reach.
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Resurrecting this thread as I've finally got around to looking to frame/chrome/paint repair - I emailed with Allan Wanta and he doesn't think he can get someone to redo the chrome (which is the worst part on the bike). Anyone know somewhere that can redo the chrome, roll or fill the dent, and redo the paint? I don't want to leave it as it sits, so my options I think are to either paint the entire bike any color scheme I want (including painting over the chrome), try to find someone to fully restore the chrome and repaint it, or sell it off to someone who doesn't mind the appearance... I'm probably somewhere in the vicinity of $1k in parts/materials and Allan was going to be another $450 without being able to fix the chrome.
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Yeah I get it, my buddy has won many, many shows and awards, cars, mc's, boats and more, his show jobs were often worked over without replacing or rechroming anything that could be reworked and restored. He is a master of making it right and reworking lackluster factory finishing and aesthetics. He worked with show chromers along the way as well, got plenty of help and developed techniques along the way.
He runs the only semi size wind tunnel in North America at Freightliner here in Portland and paints many of the R+D prototype trucks with Imron which he has also used for decades.
His day to day pedestrian work has always been better than most supposed "high quality" work, he's pretty good at what he does and there's very little he doesn't do.
He runs the only semi size wind tunnel in North America at Freightliner here in Portland and paints many of the R+D prototype trucks with Imron which he has also used for decades.
His day to day pedestrian work has always been better than most supposed "high quality" work, he's pretty good at what he does and there's very little he doesn't do.
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If I find all the Cuissis (should be four of them), I might put them up here or on evilbay.