Shimano Sora brifters vs. Microshift R9
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Shimano Sora brifters vs. Microshift R9
The 9 speed Shimano 105 brifters on my 2002 LeMond need to be replaced, and I don't want to spend too much. Which would be a better replacement- Sora or Microshift? I had 8 speed Sora brifters years ago on an entry level Giant road bike, and really liked them.
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Why not get some used Ultegra 6500 shifters?
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I just got a Cannondale Topstone with Shimano Sora. Flawless, indistinguishable from my 2016 endurance bike with Shimano 105.
I think at this point Claris and Sora are comparable to Dura Ace of 20 years ago, I can’t see why spend more. The only difference now is the brakes, rim vs mechanical disc vs hydraulic, and frankly they all work.
I think at this point Claris and Sora are comparable to Dura Ace of 20 years ago, I can’t see why spend more. The only difference now is the brakes, rim vs mechanical disc vs hydraulic, and frankly they all work.
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I replaced some 9 speed Shimano brifters on my daughters old Fuji. Advantages: Way cheaper, brake lever doesn't move sideways. More positive sounding (at least) shifting. Disadvantage; Harder to shift to larger sprockets/cogs since the lever arm is shorter.
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I just got a Cannondale Topstone with Shimano Sora. Flawless, indistinguishable from my 2016 endurance bike with Shimano 105.
I think at this point Claris and Sora are comparable to Dura Ace of 20 years ago, I can’t see why spend more. The only difference now is the brakes, rim vs mechanical disc vs hydraulic, and frankly they all work.
I think at this point Claris and Sora are comparable to Dura Ace of 20 years ago, I can’t see why spend more. The only difference now is the brakes, rim vs mechanical disc vs hydraulic, and frankly they all work.
I would spend more because I don’t want to constantly have to adjust the tension every other day. It shifts great, but my wife’s bike constantly goes out of alignment. 2021 Trek domane with Sora.
After my wife put about 75 miles on the bike I told her I was putting Tiagra on it. I was tired of messing with it after every ride.
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I would spend more because I don’t want to constantly have to adjust the tension every other day. It shifts great, but my wife’s bike constantly goes out of alignment. 2021 Trek domane with Sora.
After my wife put about 75 miles on the bike I told her I was putting Tiagra on it. I was tired of messing with it after every ride.
After my wife put about 75 miles on the bike I told her I was putting Tiagra on it. I was tired of messing with it after every ride.
Last edited by Camilo; 03-22-23 at 11:34 PM.
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I'm not disputing what you've written, but why would the Sora (or the Claris, whatever) go out of adjustment more than Tiagra? I've got lots of experience with my wife's old bike with Tiagra, and it always worked perfectly - as perfectly as new and old Ultegra, so know that what you're saying about it is true. But we've both used Sora quite a bit on rental bikes, one time, both of us, for over a week and 250 miles each. It never went out of adjustment. So it's not an assumption I would make. I've always assumed a different feel, heavier, maybe less durable, maybe less crisp, etc. with the cheaper components, but why would it actually lose adjustment more? Was it the indexing that got out or whack? The limits?
The indexing would somehow get off after every ride.
The actual shifters are probably fine. However, the OP is running 3x9 and I am pretty sure new Sora shifters do not come that way.
On my crit bike, I am running Ultegra 6500 3x9. For a 20 plus year old group set, it still works very well. It shifts beautifully, each shift is crisp, the FD, shifts well and trims well. Recently, started skipping but I think the cassette is bad.
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I have a 2004 Trek mountain bike with Shimano Alivio. Always worked perfectly with hardly any maintenance over all these years. As well as newer bikes with SLX and 105. At this point, I am very comfortable looking mainly at « entry » level bicycles.
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To add to a curernt thread drift discussion, modern Sora(so anything with 2 paddles and no thumb button) which is 2 generations and probably 8 years of product, shifts perfectly fine and stays correctly adjusted just fine. My family has 2 bikes with modern Sora shifting, 2 bikes with Tiagra 9sp shifting, and 2 bikes with Microshift 9sp shifting.
All of it works and stays perfectly aligned once it is properly set up and dialed in.
Further, I am responsible for keeping 6 road bikes in good working order that have modern Sora and modern Claris. The shifting accuracy of all these is probably the easiest thing to oversee- none of them go out of tune unless something happens like the bike is dropped on the drive side, a wheel bumps into an RD, or something similar like that.
I am not saying someone else is 'doing it wrong' or is incapable of setting up a bike properly. There could be some wonky 1 off issue that they were subjected to. My only point is that overall, Sora stays in tune for as long as anything else I have ever used or work on.
JochenRindt - if you buy Shimano R3000 shifters, they will work perfectly with your 9sp rear derailleur, but they will not work perfectly with your front derailleur. That model shifter requires a new front derailleur. I have read people have kludged together a setup that makes front shifting work well enough, but I have also read about others ultimately having to buy a compatible front derailleur.
As for which should you get of your listed 2 options...I would say the biggest differences are cable routing, shift paddle design, and cost.
- cable routing for R3000 shifters is under the bar tape while Microshift R9 shift cables come out the side externally, just like your current shifters. If you like one more than the other, then thats something to consider.
- shift paddle design is different. R3000 uses the shift lever to get to easier large cogs and the single paddle to get to smaller cogs. Microshift R9 has a dedicated brake lever and then 2 small paddles for shifting up and down. I like both styles, but if one appeals to you more, then that is also something to consider. Shimano shifting is more fluid/smooth. Microshift shifting is more abrupt and deliberate/solid feeling. Basically, they feel different and that matters to some.
- Shimano R300 shifters cost more and you will need to buy a front derailleur. Microshift and Micronew(effectively same thing) cost less and are fully compatible with your current derailleurs.
All of it works and stays perfectly aligned once it is properly set up and dialed in.
Further, I am responsible for keeping 6 road bikes in good working order that have modern Sora and modern Claris. The shifting accuracy of all these is probably the easiest thing to oversee- none of them go out of tune unless something happens like the bike is dropped on the drive side, a wheel bumps into an RD, or something similar like that.
I am not saying someone else is 'doing it wrong' or is incapable of setting up a bike properly. There could be some wonky 1 off issue that they were subjected to. My only point is that overall, Sora stays in tune for as long as anything else I have ever used or work on.
JochenRindt - if you buy Shimano R3000 shifters, they will work perfectly with your 9sp rear derailleur, but they will not work perfectly with your front derailleur. That model shifter requires a new front derailleur. I have read people have kludged together a setup that makes front shifting work well enough, but I have also read about others ultimately having to buy a compatible front derailleur.
As for which should you get of your listed 2 options...I would say the biggest differences are cable routing, shift paddle design, and cost.
- cable routing for R3000 shifters is under the bar tape while Microshift R9 shift cables come out the side externally, just like your current shifters. If you like one more than the other, then thats something to consider.
- shift paddle design is different. R3000 uses the shift lever to get to easier large cogs and the single paddle to get to smaller cogs. Microshift R9 has a dedicated brake lever and then 2 small paddles for shifting up and down. I like both styles, but if one appeals to you more, then that is also something to consider. Shimano shifting is more fluid/smooth. Microshift shifting is more abrupt and deliberate/solid feeling. Basically, they feel different and that matters to some.
- Shimano R300 shifters cost more and you will need to buy a front derailleur. Microshift and Micronew(effectively same thing) cost less and are fully compatible with your current derailleurs.
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To add to a curernt thread drift discussion, modern Sora(so anything with 2 paddles and no thumb button) which is 2 generations and probably 8 years of product, shifts perfectly fine and stays correctly adjusted just fine. My family has 2 bikes with modern Sora shifting, 2 bikes with Tiagra 9sp shifting, and 2 bikes with Microshift 9sp shifting.
All of it works and stays perfectly aligned once it is properly set up and dialed in.
Further, I am responsible for keeping 6 road bikes in good working order that have modern Sora and modern Claris. The shifting accuracy of all these is probably the easiest thing to oversee- none of them go out of tune unless something happens like the bike is dropped on the drive side, a wheel bumps into an RD, or something similar like that.
I am not saying someone else is 'doing it wrong' or is incapable of setting up a bike properly. There could be some wonky 1 off issue that they were subjected to. My only point is that overall, Sora stays in tune for as long as anything else I have ever used or work on.
JochenRindt - if you buy Shimano R3000 shifters, they will work perfectly with your 9sp rear derailleur, but they will not work perfectly with your front derailleur. That model shifter requires a new front derailleur. I have read people have kludged together a setup that makes front shifting work well enough, but I have also read about others ultimately having to buy a compatible front derailleur.
As for which should you get of your listed 2 options...I would say the biggest differences are cable routing, shift paddle design, and cost.
- cable routing for R3000 shifters is under the bar tape while Microshift R9 shift cables come out the side externally, just like your current shifters. If you like one more than the other, then thats something to consider.
- shift paddle design is different. R3000 uses the shift lever to get to easier large cogs and the single paddle to get to smaller cogs. Microshift R9 has a dedicated brake lever and then 2 small paddles for shifting up and down. I like both styles, but if one appeals to you more, then that is also something to consider. Shimano shifting is more fluid/smooth. Microshift shifting is more abrupt and deliberate/solid feeling. Basically, they feel different and that matters to some.
- Shimano R300 shifters cost more and you will need to buy a front derailleur. Microshift and Micronew(effectively same thing) cost less and are fully compatible with your current derailleurs.
All of it works and stays perfectly aligned once it is properly set up and dialed in.
Further, I am responsible for keeping 6 road bikes in good working order that have modern Sora and modern Claris. The shifting accuracy of all these is probably the easiest thing to oversee- none of them go out of tune unless something happens like the bike is dropped on the drive side, a wheel bumps into an RD, or something similar like that.
I am not saying someone else is 'doing it wrong' or is incapable of setting up a bike properly. There could be some wonky 1 off issue that they were subjected to. My only point is that overall, Sora stays in tune for as long as anything else I have ever used or work on.
JochenRindt - if you buy Shimano R3000 shifters, they will work perfectly with your 9sp rear derailleur, but they will not work perfectly with your front derailleur. That model shifter requires a new front derailleur. I have read people have kludged together a setup that makes front shifting work well enough, but I have also read about others ultimately having to buy a compatible front derailleur.
As for which should you get of your listed 2 options...I would say the biggest differences are cable routing, shift paddle design, and cost.
- cable routing for R3000 shifters is under the bar tape while Microshift R9 shift cables come out the side externally, just like your current shifters. If you like one more than the other, then thats something to consider.
- shift paddle design is different. R3000 uses the shift lever to get to easier large cogs and the single paddle to get to smaller cogs. Microshift R9 has a dedicated brake lever and then 2 small paddles for shifting up and down. I like both styles, but if one appeals to you more, then that is also something to consider. Shimano shifting is more fluid/smooth. Microshift shifting is more abrupt and deliberate/solid feeling. Basically, they feel different and that matters to some.
- Shimano R300 shifters cost more and you will need to buy a front derailleur. Microshift and Micronew(effectively same thing) cost less and are fully compatible with your current derailleurs.
About the constant need to adjust; I will be the defender of these modest products and say that until someone proves with detail that they have some exact and inherent design flaw that makes them somehow lose their adjustment, I will claim that there must be something wrong or unoptimal with the setup or the cable then. If you build a bike with exclusively Shimano Claris or Sora level components, with careful installation of good quality cables and with properly designed cable routing, you will have a setup that will stay functional for quite a long while. The only specific flaw I can think of are the derailleur pivots wearing out after some miles depending on conditions, causing slop in the system but even that should not effect the adjustment too much unless it goes really bad. Also, by then the pulleys are probably worn out too, and because the Claris/Sora derailleurs are so cheap you might as well buy a shiny new one instead of only changing the pulleys.

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The indexing would somehow get off after every ride.
The actual shifters are probably fine. However, the OP is running 3x9 and I am pretty sure new Sora shifters do not come that way.
On my crit bike, I am running Ultegra 6500 3x9. For a 20 plus year old group set, it still works very well. It shifts beautifully, each shift is crisp, the FD, shifts well and trims well. Recently, started skipping but I think the cassette is bad.
The actual shifters are probably fine. However, the OP is running 3x9 and I am pretty sure new Sora shifters do not come that way.
On my crit bike, I am running Ultegra 6500 3x9. For a 20 plus year old group set, it still works very well. It shifts beautifully, each shift is crisp, the FD, shifts well and trims well. Recently, started skipping but I think the cassette is bad.
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I threw it on this, as my first bike build. I had planned on building it and either making it permanently on the trainer or selling it, but I fell in love with this bike. Now I ride this more than anything else, and it’s turned into my crit bike.
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Resurrection or coincidence?

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Huge shoes to fill....


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^

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Where's the "select every picture that has a stoplight" security step?
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Yep, doesn't pass ZeroGPT

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To make a well-informed decision, I would recommend considering a few factors. Firstly, compare the features and specifications of both the Sora and Microshift brifters to ensure they are compatible with your bike's drivetrain and other components. Additionally, read reviews from other cyclists who have used these replacements to get a sense of their overall performance, durability, and ease of use. Lastly, if possible, try to test both options in person at a local bike shop to see which one feels more comfortable and suits your preferences.
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When confronted with the choice between Sora and Microshift, it would be wise to deliberate with care. While Sora is a well-known and dependable option, Microshift offers similar quality at a more reasonable price point. Ultimately, the decision should be based on your individual preferences and financial situation. If you have had positive past experiences with Sora, it may be worth revisiting. On the other hand, if you wish to economize, Microshift may be a viable alternative. It is essential to ensure that whichever option you select is compatible with your bike's components and is installed correctly to achieve optimal performance. Moreover also check some reviews here (https://truecarexpert.com/guide/microshift-vs-shimano/)
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When confronted with the choice between Sora and Microshift, it would be wise to deliberate with care. While Sora is a well-known and dependable option, Microshift offers similar quality at a more reasonable price point. Ultimately, the decision should be based on your individual preferences and financial situation. If you have had positive past experiences with Sora, it may be worth revisiting. On the other hand, if you wish to economize, Microshift may be a viable alternative. It is essential to ensure that whichever option you select is compatible with your bike's components and is installed correctly to achieve optimal performance. Moreover also check some reviews here (https://truecarexpert.com/guide/microshift-vs-shimano/)
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Yes, both their posts are AI.
