gideo8

As per a recommendation from an earlier thread I am posting what I am looking for and hoping folks can help me find a good deal for a great bike!


I am in the Boston area (Watertown to be specific, but I'm alright to drive a bit). I need to buy a bike this week to restart my regular commute, and I don't know bikes very well so I can't do work myself besides the very basic.


I'm 6'1" so I'm looking for a large bike (58 cms/23"/Large is what i was thinking) that is reasonably light because I like to ride fast. I am 100% a dropbar guy and I really like riding older bikes. Most recently I road a Shogun Tangaloy with 700c tires that I enjoyed (but it was my friends bike and I needed to give it back). Ideally I'd like to spend no more than $300, but $400 is as high as I'm willing to go. It probably makes sense to find something that can handle a fatter tire. I've also thought about a bit more of a conversion with some fenders and a rack so I'd love flexibility for that, but I've been using my commute as exercise and wearing a backpack for the last few years, so its not essential. The key is that it not be anywhere as heavy as the Schwinn Varsity I used to commute on before the Shogun. If it looks vintage cool that would certainly be a plus.


I've had the best luck finding options on Craigslist. Here are some I'm considering that I'd love opinions on (all are the listing titles on Boston Craigslist, I can't post links yet), but of course if anyone sees something else I'm totally open.

1. Fuji Roubaix Road Bike - $250 (Waltham)
   
2. Raleigh Technium SuperCourse Road Bicycle (Full Rebuild) - $300
   
3. Shogun Katana road bike - $125 (Amesbury) - its a bit far to go check it out though.
   
4. Cannondale Road Bike - $275 (Cambridge)
   
5. Trek 1000 road bike - $200
   
6. Miyata 721A Alumitech Road Bike for 5'-8" - 6'-0" - $320 (Foxboro)
   
7. 58cm. /23" FUJI S12S road bike. - $220 (Jamaica Plain / Boston)
   

Thanks for support and expertise here in making this decision!

3alarmer 

....you didn't metnion the distance of your commute, or the road conditions.

But generally speaking, for a commuter bike, any 70's or 80's road bike will work. You will be happier with something that has a slightly longer wheelbase and chainstays, and the wheel clearance and frame fittings to fit fenders and a rack. You will not be happy, long term, commuting with your stuff in a backpack, nor will you enjoy wet weather commuting without fenders.

This will eliminate some of your listed possibilities, right off the bat. So look for something that already has a rack and fenders fitted, if possible. IOW, something someone else has set up as a commuter. Often these are listed on CL as "touring" bicycles, or sometimes "randonneur". You don't need a full on, heavy duty touring bike, just something you can fit with rack and fenders. And you need lights, if you are going to commute year around.

bikemig 

The Fuji S12S is a pretty decent bike, the price is OK, and it will make a solid commuter. It gets a lot of love on this website for a reason. Replacement parts will be inexpensive especially if you hunt around in a bike co-op for used parts.



No pics but worth asking about, https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/bi...529372753.html If it is really one of Fuji's touring models, they tend to be pretty good quality (most are very good, some more middling). Touring bikes make good commuters.

I don't know what kind of mechanical skills you have. This Dawes Galaxy at $88 is worth considering it if you can pick it up for around $50. It will make a solid commuter assuming that the wheels and parts are serviceable. It will need new tires and tubes but pretty much any used bike you buy will need new rubber.

https://boston.craigslist.org/bmw/bi...526266829.html

gideo8

3alarmer The road conditions are pretty bad...Boston roads. I am commuting 4 miles each way right now, but it could become closer to 7 next year. I'm not sure how to determine which bikes have "slightly longer wheelbase and chainstays." Are any of these bikes in that category? I also already have a great set of lights!

bikemig You would go with the Fuji S12S over the Fuji Roubaix that zukahn1 had recommended in my original post?

wrk101 had suggested a fully rebuilt bike in my original post, which the listing says was done for the Raleigh Technium SuperCourse. But is that bike lower value than these other ones?

WGB in the original post I made about the Austro-Daimler you said you had seen some really great items on FB marketplace but I couldnt find any in the 58cm range (and I can't visually guess effectively), did you see anything in there better than these options above?

Thanks everyone! This is such a huge help in getting me back on the road!

bikemig 

The Fuji Roubaix is a newer bike than the S12S. Yeah I'd likely get the S12S as it can take a fatter tire but the Roubaix is a nice bike. I'd be tempted to buy the S12S and the Dawes if you can get it for $40 or so. You can take it to a bike co op and use it to learn how to work on a bike. If you're bike commuting, there is a lot to be said for having a back up bike.

Edit: In buying a used bike, do a visual inspection as well as a test ride. The paint should look smooth and the bike should looks straight. If the paint is crinkly that may be the sign of a crash. Also pick up the front wheel and spin it. Check to see if it looks reasonably straight using the brake block as a guide. If it is rubbing or too wobbly, that may be a problem. Do the same for the rear wheel. Parts can be replaced and bikes can be tuned up but the frame and the wheels are the heart of the bike

3alarmer 

.
...given your budgetary restrictions, would say that you ought to keep looking for something where the seller has already invested in fenders and a rack, but if youi want to buy something like that Fuji, you can buy a set on sale for $40-60 and spend some time learning to mount them. Likewise, look for something with a decent rack on it, mounted solidly, to which you can attach bags. This is because in a commuting to work situation, you often need to bring a change of shoes, or maybe carry some of your work clothing in the bags, because it's not comfortable to ride in.

All of my rear racks and bags have come used, from the bike co-op here. A longer wheelbase means that the distance between your wheel axles is longer. Longer chainstays mean that the distance between the rear wheel and the seat tube is greater.

Here is one of my bikes, set up as a summer commuter:




Here is one set up as a rainy season commuter (we have a long dry season here):



Here is one with a short wheelbase, and no accommodations for rack or fender mounting:



This is a full touring bike, with very long chainstays, and large clearance for larger tires and fenders :






So if you buy a bike with no mounting holes/tabs on the dropouts and fork ends, it will make a poor commuter. And the longer wheelbase will also make for a smoother ride on rough roads with a lot of patching and potholes. But for the distances you are talking about, you can probably commute on just about anything. 5 miles is a relatively short commute. Just remember to budget for anything additional you will need to add to your initial purchase, like new tires, fenders, rack, bags, and stuff that might need to be replaced. It's probably worth looking around to see if you can find a bike that has that stuff on it already. If you are someplace where you have to buy it new, it can add significantly to your initial cost.

WGB 

I had been looking at slightly larger bikes (59-61cm bikes) as well as 58cm ones. I didn't rely on the ads alone, some posters have no idea the correct size of their bikes. If I see one specifically, I will update you.

Ps. Seems to be a quirk in the system but when you type my name I didn't see any pop up advising me you had typed my name

gideo8

Thank you all!

I am hoping to try and test ride a few of these bikes you all have highlighted. The only one that has gotten back to me so far is the owner of the Roubaix. If I went with it, is there any reason why I couldn't do one of the racks that attaches without frame fittings, like what Cycling Kinetics sells? Would there just not be enough space on a bike like this and I would end up hitting the bags as I pedal? Also same thing with partial fenders that go around the brakes?

I am interested in something that's reasonably light with somewhat speed-oriented (hybrid?) geometry because I really try to get a workout on my commute (as a young parent it's one of the few times I have a chance to consistently break a sweat during the week).

I've also been looking around for 24"/61cm bikes that might be a better fit, but I haven't found too many. Are either of these two worth considering?

• Trek Road Bike - $300 (Roslindale)
• TREK 2100 composite; STI; triathlon; TALL FRAME; 5'10" to 6'2" - $300 (Cambridge or Winchester)

Thanks!

WGB 

When you find a bike and have questions, post a photo as it makes it easier than guessing, or having us search Boston, MA for say "Trek bike for $300".

If I found the right Trek at $300 (below), it has a rack, it has s triple and it's a 24 inch (looks like a 23 to me)

https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...526546343.html

I'd inspect carefully for damage as it's dirty and dirty doesn't suggest pride of ownership. Assuming that stem is raised to show it's not seized.



Posted 7 days ago for $225 near Danehy Park (whatever that is). I'd expect you want your head up at first when in heavy traffic and you can always by used bars for cheap
https://boston.craigslist.org/nos/bi...526897761.html



Posted 19 days ago in Foxboro for $300 . Its a 22 inch/58cm which seems small for you height. It's aluminum
https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/bi...521799806.html

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Same seller in Foxboro Pretty nice for $320. It's a 25 inch/63cm. I included it as my youngest is 6'1 and he had a 25 in frame but he rode with the seat post down.

​​​​​​https://boston.craigslist.org/sob/bi...528555475.html

​​​​​​

Lastly, another option for commuting on bad roads is a mountain bike. Get smoother tires and you get a smooth ride (albeit a slower one), you are in an upright position and your ride will survive potholes better. I just got my youngest a 24 inch frame and he's hit a pothole and the front wheel needs truing...

This one can take racks. Looks good, seller says he's 5'11 and had to slam the saddle so it should fit you.
It has been listed for a month and it's $220. Seller might deal. Cash is king.
Bike is in Salem so you can presumably bus there and ride back

https://nh.craigslist.org/bik/d/sale...512037703.html

1997 Mongoose Threshold Sport 21-speed mountain bike - $220 (Salem)

gideo8

Or these?

• Peugeot 1982 Centennial edition - $450 (Medford) (thinking I might be able to bargain him down a bit)
• Peugeot road bike 6’1”- 6’3” - $250 (Waltham)
• Vintage Mid 90s Specialized Sirrus Road Bike, 60cm Red & Yellow - $100 (Waltham) (and then take it to a shop for some work)
• Windsor Bike Classic - $125 (Newton)

WGB 

Again, outside of town in Norwell, but only $30. Tires clearly done. Clearly just a cheap bike but it might be all you need until winter comes. At $30 you could get some good tires and save money for a winter deal. Boston gets some nasty weather.
Seller means it shifts by friction 'cause it isn't index shifting.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...92230850870167

per ad:
1976 Raleigh Grand Prix For sale, i used it everyday as a daily commuter frame has cosmetic wear but indexes all gears and rides smooth, fits 5’6 to around 5’11 rider 10 speeds. Will probably need tires soon but they do work and hold air.


​​​​​​

LOL!

Buy the above frame (for $30) which should fit you.

Buy this for the parts (for $100) and with a few hrs work you'd have a heck of ride! Unsure which Elance model (400D maybe??)

I'll cross post this in the CL thread.

Posted 9hrs ago in Framingham, MA
​​​​​​https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...14336320797283


28” Trek Road Bike
$100
Listed 9 hours ago in Framingham, MA

• Condition
  Used – good
• Brand
  Trek

Trek Elance bike for sale in good condition

​​​​​​

3alarmer 

... there are no good racks that attach without frame fittings. There are a number of rack designs that attach to things lie seat posts and the like, that will not work very well. You will quickly figure out what works and what does not, when you try to use them. Partial fenders are fine if you don't mind getting wet. Even with full fenders, you get a little wet. But anyone who rides to work regularly will tell you that if you're buying a bike to commute, you should get one that will take full fenders.

I sense some resistance to these ideas on your part, as evidenced by :



I can only share my own experience. I commuted to a few different jobs here in California over the years by bike. We have a long dry summer, that usually goes through early fall. We have an average rainfall of about 20" yearly, that comes in regular intervals over the winter. Our winter lows are right about freezing. So cold enough to wear gloves and some sort of knit hat over your ears, under a helmet. In the winter, even on nice, rainless days when it is pleasant to ride your bike, the streets are wet. If you don't have full fenders, you will get wet from the spray off your tires. Which is unpleasant, especially at temps in the 30's.

People rode lugged steel bikes throughout the decades when they were made and sold, some of them were relatively lightweight, and we all got pretty good workouts. I can ride any of the bicycles I showed you in pictures at average speeds off 15-16 mph. You really do not need to go faster than that to commute, and traffic control devices will slow you down anyway. I sense you want some sort of more modern bicycle, advertised and sold as light and aggressive. Most bicycles that were designed like that are poor choices to commute, but like I said before, when your commute is 5 miles or less, you can probably do it on a beach cruiser. Unless you get enough posts that you can start posting links, just naming a bike in an ad won't get much helpful advice.

People learn a lot by actually doing something, and you'll probably figure out the bike commuting thing from doing it. I rode a three speed, step through Schwinn Collegiate (maybe it was a Breeze ?) for a couple of years as a commute bike in Merced, and it worked fine. I picked it because I had to park outside at work, and I didn't want something that would get stolen. Everyone's situation is a little different, but I would advise you to get past the idea that you need a gofast bike to get a decent workout. If you want your bike to go fast, the biggest determinants are the wheels, tires, and your own conditioning.

WGB 

When you find a bike and have questions, post a photo as it makes it easier than guessing, or having us search Boston, MA for say "Trek bike for $300".

Or these?

You have to add the links as you can't expect everyone to search based on clues!

I didn't see how many post you had to date. Unsure if you used 5 today or if you hit 10 with less than 5. If you can't post again today, starting tomorrow you can add photos and links

gideo8

Thanks for all these comments. I am really appreciating the dialogue, its helping me to think through what I really want. (I couldn't post links or photos because I was below 10 posts, but now I can, sorry about that!)

To clarify, as I have thought about it I have honed in on these priorities for my purchase right now:

1. Feeling fully setup without the need to work on my bike or take it to the shop anytime soon. (I am not at a phase of life where I have time for learning new skills or investing in projects, so WGB your idea with the Trek Elance and the Raleigh sounds brilliant, but not up my alley...it wouldn't be a few hours of work with my skill level).
2. Investing in a quality bike(s) that should last a while. (I don't need to get the best deal out there but I don't want to buy a low-end dud or something poorly maintained).
3. Exploring a more serious form of commuting (you have convinced me 3alarmer) with rack and fenders on a bike that can actually handle them but while still feeling like my bike is light enough to zoom around (I used to ride a Schwinn Varsity 10 years ago which I am scarred by, hence the prioritization of lightness).

In any case, the first person to respond to me was the owner of the Fuji Roubaix. I just went to see it and it seems to be in really good shape. He put new cables in it, the seatpost and handlebar stem both move and it just feels like a really nice bike. I do fit on it, but I have to put the saddletube almost all the way up.

As per this conversation, I told him I was leaning towards a larger bike (59-61cm) closer to a touring style that I could set up with a rack and fenders. It turns out he is also trying to sell this 60 cm Peugeot. He threw some fenders and a rack on it after we met this morning and he and is willing to keep the price at $250 with those additions. Here's what it looks like all setup:


I am seriously considering buying both bikes, as this gives me a chance to feel extra zippy on some days with the Fuji (and maybe even try out a group ride sometime) while also transitioning to a real commuter arrangement for much of the time with the Peugeot. $500 is a bit higher than I was originally planning to spend right now, but I can make it work, especially if these are good investments in bikes that might last me awhile.

So my remaining questions that I am hoping you all can help answer:

1. Does the Peugeot look like it hits the criteria of a more effective commuter? And does the fender/rack setup look sound?
2. I know the Roubaix is a good deal but is the Peugeot worth $250 provided it's also in pretty good shape?
3. How would I find out the largest tires I could fit on the Peugeot? It has 27 x1 1/4 right now, but I am wondering if I should go larger and how I would know it could take it?
4. Is there anything else I should think about? Do you all think that buying these two bikes is a decent strategy to meeting my priorities right now?

Here are some of the other bikes I am considering. Let me know if you think any of these might be a better choice than the Peugeot for the commuter bike:

1. The newer Fuji touring bike. It's pretty dirty and might need some work, so I am leaning away, but if its going to be a much superior commuter I would consider it. The owner sent these pictures:
   
   
   
   
   
2. This Peugeot 1982 Centennial Edition for $450
3. The Raleigh Technium SuperNova @WGB found for $235
4. This Trek 400 series.
5. The Univega Specialissima

Some of the other ready-to-ride bikes we've discussed have already gone, some of these move real quickly!

Thanks again for all the support!

3alarmer 

.
...first, cleaning up a bike like that Roubaix is a laborious process. There is no easy way to do it, even though most of the people who post here regularly do such dismantling, cleaning, and overhauls all the time.

So to a person with your stated time constraints and needs, I would venture you are better off finding a bike like that Peugeot, which is neither fancy or especially advanced in design, but does have a longer wheelbase, fenders and installed rack, and solid, if not exceptional, components. $250 seems like a pretty good deal for that bicycle, in that condition. And it ought to serve you well, if it is your size at 60cm. The tires look reasonably OK in your photo, you say it has new cables. 27x 1 1/4 is plenty fat enough for tires, even on fairly bad roads. I cannot tell from your photo, but the fenders might (and I only say might) be a little narrow for that size tire, but they might also be fine. Basically, you're looking for a fender that is wide enough to catch side spray off the tires. Wider tires than that will be heavier, and probably slow you down more. Those fenders might be fine, but you should be able to tell if they adequately cover the current tires in person. Here is a link to the Velo Orange blog about choosing fender widths. You will quickly tire of that saddle, which is probably original to the bike. It's not unusual to need to find a saddle that is comfortable for you, personally. some of us look for years to find the perfect saddle fit. Since it is a commuter, stay away from leather for this choice. Don't buy some ****** mattress saddle. There are a number of solid choices out there, and you will probably find the ones with a perineal relief cutout to be more comfortable.


Second, if you are going to get another, zippy bike, just look for another zippy bike. You probably won't be riding it in the rain, or carrying a lot of gear, so just go wild and get something that makes you happy as a race bike. There are plenty of them around, and there are some very nice stell lugged racing bikes in the used market that were the original owner's dream bike, when he bought it new. That lavender Gios compact is a full race frame, from back in the day. I am old now, and can't get it to go as fast as it ought to go, but is still feels pretty zippy.

I would say wait, and learn some stuff from your commute bike in terms of sizing and fit, before you buy anything else. Sometimes people have a preference for a slightly smaller frame for racing, because it puts you lower in the front. Thus more aerodynamic positioning. But it varies from person to person. A race bike (and how you fit it to yourself) and a commute bike (and how it fits you) are very different propositions. As a commuter, you want to be more upright, because it allows you a better view of all the cars and drivers, who are threats to your well being.

The rack on that Centennial edition Peugeot is one of the worst ever, and they were ubiquitous at one time. Might be OK, but you'd need to fit a new rack and buy fenders. It's hard to tell from pictures if it's well maintained.
The Univega Specialissima is a very fine bicycle for this purpose, but it appears to be a 25" frame, so it might be a little large for you. It's from the high point of Japanese touring bicycles, in era.
Trek 400 series are solid bikes, and I have set one up for commuting myself once, but I ended up using something else. I don't know jack about the Raleigh Technium's.

bikemig 

That Peugeot UO 10 will be a very solid commuter. That is a very serviceable bike with solid parts (Stronglight 99 crank, decent alloy wheels with weinmann concave rims, and largely decent parts other than the saddle). $250 is on the high end for that bike, though, but you're in Boston and prices aren't cheap there. The bike has clearance for ample volume tires and fenders. It has a very solid geometry. It is a well designed bike.

That said, I still like the Fuji S12S. It's around $30 less but you will need fenders and a rack.

StarBiker

Why does it have to be a road bike with crummy roads? Especially at that distance.

3alarmer 

...it's true that a hardtail mountain bike with fenders and a rack, in the right size. makes a wonderful commuter. I think we got off onto road bikes, because there was talk of wanting to go fast, and the whole business about the former experience with a Varsity. But yeah, anything probably works at that distance. It's ideal for an older Raleigh Sports, or something else with a SA 3 speed hub. But these threads go where they take us.

StarBiker

The only bike that made sense was the Mongoose but the price was BS, and it's 26 Inch wheels. The OP need a 90's Hybrid, Mountain, ATB Steel bike with 700 wheels and something he can get 40's, or 42's on.

If vintage roadies work for folks that's great, and they may work for the OP but they have never worked fro me. (That composite Trek will be a teeth chatterer)

Centurian Dave Scott Iron-Man, Trek 660 (Beauty but a neck breaker), Trek 1400, Bianchi Eros (Tron Decals), Gary Fisher Cobia 29'r (way to much bike, but perfect for $42), Cannondale Super V 400 (Thankfully I got all my money back on that goofy thing), Cannondale F 700 (The OP could commute on that) Trek Multi Track 750 that I foolishly flipped (Exactly what the OP needs) And now the Giant Innova. (I still have a couple of these) None of these counting brief owned flips.

A Trek FX would be perfect as well. Or something like that Innova. Trek Multi Track.

And the OP is around Boston? Like any eastern City he's not going to be peddling 20 miles one way.

But hey, if an old roadie works.........

gideo8

I tried to jump on the Fuji S12S but the lister never responded to my few emails and the post is gone. Must be a pretty popular model!

I don't like flatbars. Also the roads are partly crummy and partly recently paved protected bike lane! I did find this Innova, and it totally might be a more comfortable ride but historically I haven't enjoyed riding bikes like this or like a Raleigh Sports.

In any case sounds like the Peugeot could be a good option, and with it all set up I'm inclined to go for it rather than exploring something like that Trek 400 which I'd have to set up. I asked about the fender width and he said it fits (seems like he knows what hes talking about), but I'll make sure its around 45mm. I also asked if he has another saddle that might have a better shot of being decent for me and he's going to bring a selection I can choose from when I check it out tomorrow.

On the Roubaix, I think I may be able to get a deal on both bikes if I buy them together, and it looks like its in great shape, so I'm trying to better understand why it wouldn't be a good option.
It looked like the seller just overhauled it, so would that be an immediate concern? Would it just be more expensive than other road bikes to have a pro clean up yearly?
I'm not sure I've found any other race bikes in this price range that would make more sense, but maybe I haven't been looking well enough. Is it a bad deal?

StarBiker

Like I said an old Roadie might work. On bad roads I don't know how. (only part of the way)

I see folks riding road bikes on gravel rail trails all the time and wonder how they do it without a mouth piece.

I can't stand drops so we are in different camp.

Reaching around those damn things to access the brakes on vintage bikes has never worked with my body.

I have had a few of the bikes posted in this thread......

Also, you can use different bars. They don't have to be vintage drops, and they don't have to be vintage flat bars either.

Sounds like you want to lean into the bike so riding more upright isn't going to work. Good luck with your search.

(Pounding thrifts and yard sales might net you something for peanuts in good shape surprisingly quickly, but time constraints won't allow......)

3alarmer 

...I guess I haven't seen any photos of the Roubaix. I mistakenly thought that the photos of the kind of dirty Fuji "Touring" bike were that one. I don't know enough about the Roubaix to give you solid advice, with regard to serviceability, quality of components, etc. There is a phenomenon on a lot of the newer bicycles with more cogs in the back toward more expensive cogsets, chains, and if it is new enough to have disc brakes, those are more expensive to maintain. Maybe someone else can tell you about it, because it's out of my wheelhouse. I have some bikes with brifters, but generally prefer to ride older stuff when I want to go fast on the MUP. I know people buy them, and spend a lot of money on the new ones. I just personally am stuck back in an older time frame, and not anxious to progress.

On any bike like that, "overhaul" means different things to different people. And the wheels on something like that are harder to work on, because there are fewer spokes, so the spoke tensions are higher. It sounds ridiculously cheap, given the original cost. But that in itself doesn't mean there's something wrong with it. Specialized sells some good stuff, even if the company has a problematic business image.

Edit: or is this a Fuji Roubaix ? I think they once made and sold a bike under this name, too. Obvious confusion on my part.

StarBiker

Yeah, ask if the seller has cleaned, replaced, and greased the hub bearings, changed the bottom bracket (Doesn't always need it, but it can be a good idea depending on the bracket, and age of the bike), replaced the cables, clean, and re-greased the headset, possibly replacing the bearings as well, trued the rims (You need to make sure the seat post isn't stuck), and completed a general tune up afterwards and test road the bike........anybody not having done all of the above has not overhauled the bike. Including common sense consumable replacements.

gideo8

Yea these threads get long!

The bike with the pictures is the newer Fuji Touring bike. It definitely needs some care, not what I'm looking for.

This is the Fuji Roubaix I am thinking of buying tomorrow with the Peugeot. I think its an '87 or '88 based on this thread (the bike looks similar and has 105 parts). It's made in Japan old school Fuji. It's light and the owner definitely cleaned it up and replaced the brake lines but StarBiker I am going to ask him about each of the items you mentioned for a full overhaul.

And yea $250 may not be a steal for these bikes but as long as I know they aren't crap I feel good about it. The opportunity cost for trying to find a steal is just not worth it for me!

3alarmer 

.
...yeah, that's a solid, old school Fuji, and 105 from that time period is a very workable set of components. $250 for that, overhauled, is pretty cheap. He's probably got at least 8 hours into it, just in personal time. That combination of Shimano six (or is it seven ?) down tube indexed shifting and aero brake levers is probably my favorite riding setup, and I have used that configuration a lot. It's simple to work on, but it gives solid performance. I would probably pull off that spoke protector, but it doesn't hurt anything to leave it in place. You may or may not like the saddle. Somewhere along the line, if you want to ride fast, you'll need to invest in either pedals that accept clips and straps, or clipless and the shoes to fit them. If you ride on bumpy, potholed roads with that kind off pedal, and you lose a pedal at speed, it usually results in either a crash or a real wake up.

He probably just put those pedals on for people to test ride it.

Edit: I'm having trouble figuring out why it has a nutted rear wheel axle, instead of a hollow axle with a QR, which was original. It's not a big deal, but it means that you need to carry a wrench as part of your flat repair tools, which is a PIA. The wheels seem to match, so best guess is that the rear axle got bent, and this was what he had/chose to replace it. It's not a big deal to replace it with something closer to the original, but getting someone else to do it costs money.