pbass

I have a 17/19 White Industries DOS Eno incoming--always thought it'd be interesting to try. This is gonna go on my ss Cross Check, currently with an 18t in the back. 3/32 chain, WolfTooth 110 BCD chainring up front. At some point I may try two chainrings up front for a true "dingle" but for starters I'm gonna stick w one.
Once I get it on there I'll see what I'm dealing with of course, but curious how the chainline has worked out for folks using these. Do you get your chainline dialed for the gear you envision you'll use most of time? Or, split the difference so to speak? Does it even matter that much? (I can see myself using both gears pretty frequently - we'll see about that).

veganbikes

Wouldn't a DOS eno and a Double Chainring make it s a "quingle gear"

I cannot speak to chainline because I doubt you will have too many issues as I think chainline is usually overhyped but you will figure it out I am sure with a little riding and tweaking if needed but probably not.

pbass

Yeah, I mean, my chainline as-is is not exactly "perfect" and I have no issues. We'll see how it goes.
As for terminology, I've had people tell me that a true dinglespeed is two gears in back, two chainrings up front. I have no idea. They also argue I won't be able to consider myself a "singlespeeder" any longer once I put this sucker on there. Oh well, can't please everybody!

seat_boy

I did this kind of setup on my old CC for many years. "Close enough" chainline works fine. Cross chaining from the inner chainring to the outer cog (or vice versa) had no noticeable impact.

If you have a flip/flop hub and can find a Surly dingle fixed cog, then you're really styling!

pbass

I do--I have never even tried fixed before. This could be a whole new adventure
Not sure why, but I hadn't even considered cross-chaining and the extra gear options that would offer - I was just thinking inner or outer for both. This will be a fun experiment....

seat_boy

I ended up making a little spreadsheet to look at total tooth counts and gear inches, so I could figure out what combos where usable and what gears they gave me.

IIRC, I ran a 40/34 up front, a 16t fixed cog, and a 17/19 WI FW. With a half link, the CC's dropouts could accommodate the 6 teeth of chainring difference, so I ended up with these usable gears:

40 x 16 - road fixed (67.5")
34 x 16 - off road fixed, rarely ever used (57")
40 x 17 - road FW
34 x 17 - road easy gear
34 x 19 - road really easy gear

Something like that. Just keep all the combinations (fr + rr cog) in a six tooth window, and play with the numbers. It makes me miss my CC!

pbass

Very cool - thanks for the info! My CC sees primarily offroad use, fair amount of steep fire roads and singletrack around here. Currently have a 34 up front, and was considering adding a 32 to keep the same teeth count, but maybe I'll go for a wider range so I can get a nice low climbing gear.

bwilli88 

DIngle speed has been given to a bike that has two cogs in the rear and two chainrings has been given the where the small cog/big chainring and the large cog/small chainring have the same tooth count technically giving 2 different gear ratios with straight chain lines using one length of chain.
I have a double dingle speed. Fixed on one side and free on the other 17-21 with 49x45 chainrings.

bwilli88 

I also saw this one in the wild this weekend while visiting Tokyo.

dphilips

Interesting timing - I'm currently building up a 130mm flip flop wheel to put a DOS Eno 17/19 on a Bianchi Volpe with 42/40 chainrings for 42x17 (68") and 40x19 (58"). This is a roadish/gravelish build with 700x38s.

I'm not planning on using the intermediate (cross-chained) ratios, but it's nice to know it shouldn't be a problem to do that. I'm also thinking of trying a 16t fixed cog on the flip side (for 40x16, 68") - because why not?

As for no longer being a singlespeed - you can still only use one ratio at a time without stopping and making a change and in this sense it is no different from a bike with a single chainring and freewheel/cog.

pbass

Got the DOS Eno 17/19 in - man, this thing is just nice to hold in your hand--gotta love a finely realized piece of machinery. Love the sound it makes too BTW.
Got 'er on the Cross Check - took a quick test spin in 17. Deliberately went looking for a long-ish climb, stopped and quickly popped it over to the 19. Took less than a minute. I've got a Surly Hurdy Gurdy on my CC too, which helps getting the tension where I want it with minimal fuss.
Pretty nifty. A second chainring is next....

veganbikes

It was more of a joke but yeah I guess if you do it like that it makes sense as a dingle but I was thinking about using all combinations hence the quingle speed joke. If you did a double dingle you could have a sexdecuple with 16 total combinations of gears all potentially being single or fixed though I suspect you would probably want a longer set of track ends and maybe even a eccentric B.B. as well with some of the combinations.

rustystrings61 

This one is my answer to that - 1973 Raleigh Competition Mk. II with 44/42T chainrings, a Surly Dingle 17/19T fixed cog on one side of the hub and a White Industries Dos Eno 20/22T on the other. Without cross-chaining I have four useful gears - 70-in fixed for pavement, 60-in fixed for gravel roads, 60-in freewheeling for general knocking about and a 51-in coastie setup for gentle singletrack, should I so desire. The Competition had the most tire clearance of the '70s Carlton-built 531 Raleighs, so 35 mm tires handle the surfaces around here and still have decent clearance. I replaced the solid rear axle in the Surly New Track hub with a hollow unit and a steel q/r skewer, and gear changes are around 30 seconds with practice.


This is actually a LOT of fun to ride, and I keep flirting with swapping out the tires to smooth 32 mm Paselas and having it kitted with bottle braze-ons, bosses for direct-mounting the Weinmann centerpulls, and maybe even a French rando rack up front. It may be an English bike, but it has classical French randonneuse geometry.

If you're really bored and like build threads, here you go!

Broctoon

I have an All City Nature Boy Disc with a White Dos freewheel. It also has a road double crank, so I can choose between two ratios and keep the chain line perfect. I could probably cross-chain it without serious problems. I think the chain line would be close enough. But there's no reason to do this.

My chain rings have a difference of two teeth, just as the Dos has. This means I can put the chain on the big ring and small cog or the small ring and big cog; the axle's position in the frame doesn't change. The Nature Boy has horizontal dropouts and a special brake caliper mount that allows easy adjustment when switching to different cog sizes, so I could use chain rings with a greater difference if I wanted to. It's a pretty cool setup. I like that freewheel.

pbass

Been really digging having this gizmo on there. Admittedly, I've been kinda gratuitously looking for situations where I change it mid-ride, just to see how fast I can switch it

highandlowrpm

Nice! Also really enjoying my DOS, and appreciate the build quality and satisfying freewheel click. Just went from greasing chains to using a chain wax (Maximo chain wax spray), and enjoying even more the smoothness and reduced dirt accumulation so far (but have only gone on a few rides with wax, so far).

seat_boy

I always ran my CC with a QR skewer and no chain tug--with a good (Shimano style) QR, I didn't have any issues with wheel slippage, and it made for a faster gear change.

pbass

Honestly, I don't need that Hurdy Gurdy on there. I rode that bike w/o it for years, no problem. I never worried about slippage. I just bought it out of curiosity and stuck it on. If anything, it slows me down when I swap the Dos Eno gearing (I have to loosen the bolt way more to get it out of the way enough). That said it is kinda cool to be able to give it a little twist and micro finesse the tension, and I suppose it's nice to know there's no way the wheel could slip.