Go Back  Bike Forums > Bike Forums > Bicycle Mechanics
Reload this Page >

Suntour XC Pro Hub, Axle Replacement or Cold set frame?

Notices
Bicycle Mechanics Broken bottom bracket? Tacoed wheel? If you're having problems with your bicycle, or just need help fixing a flat, drop in here for the latest on bicycle mechanics & bicycle maintenance.

Suntour XC Pro Hub, Axle Replacement or Cold set frame?

Old 06-07-22, 10:38 PM
  #1  
Piff 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Piff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,018
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 469 Post(s)
Liked 227 Times in 147 Posts
Suntour XC Pro Hub, Axle Replacement or Cold set frame?

Hi,

Haven't been on here for a while! But, back into the fray.

There's a 90s mountain bike I'm interested in that has 135mm. Unfortunately, the wheelset I'd like to use with it is 130mm OLD. Plus, the hub is a Suntour XC Pro (freewheel variety), which I'm assuming may take a special axle?

Would it be recommended to simply cold set the bike from 135mm to 130mm? Or is the axle swap easy?

Thanks.
Piff is offline  
Old 06-08-22, 12:19 AM
  #2  
icemilkcoffee 
Senior Member
 
icemilkcoffee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,527
Mentioned: 8 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 884 Post(s)
Liked 781 Times in 471 Posts
Axle swap is easy enough. But are you sure you want to run a freewheel hub on a mountain bike? These are prone to bent axles even on road bikes.
icemilkcoffee is offline  
Likes For icemilkcoffee:
Old 06-08-22, 06:06 AM
  #3  
JohnDThompson 
Old fart
 
JohnDThompson's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 23,926

Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.

Mentioned: 146 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3119 Post(s)
Liked 2,345 Times in 1,389 Posts
If the axle is sufficiently long, you could just use spacers to fit the wheel into your frame. @icemilkcoffee's point about bent axles is valid, but you could minimize this risk by putting the spacers on the non-drive side and re-dishing the wheel.
JohnDThompson is offline  
Likes For JohnDThompson:
Old 06-08-22, 06:43 AM
  #4  
delbiker1 
Mother Nature's Son
 
delbiker1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Sussex County, Delaware
Posts: 2,610

Bikes: Early 90's Ochsner road, 2006 Schwinn SS DBX, 2014 Orbea Avant MD30, 2004 Airborne Zeppelin TI, 2003 Lemond Poprad, 1989? Fuji Ace, 2001 Lemond Tourmalet, 2014? Soma Smoothie

Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 694 Post(s)
Liked 1,011 Times in 593 Posts
I do not know mountain bikes, but is the frame steel?
delbiker1 is offline  
Old 06-08-22, 10:56 AM
  #5  
esasjl
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Posts: 59

Bikes: '84 Chas Roberts, '91 Peugeot Galibier, '90 Gitane Leader, '51 Dayton Elite, '90 Verago ATB, '08 Dawes Sardar

Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 13 Post(s)
Liked 100 Times in 27 Posts
Respacing the non-drive side and redishing as suggested will also even up spoke tensions and improve wheel robustness. I'd also consider an outrigger bearing supporting the freewheel.
esasjl is offline  
Old 06-08-22, 09:08 PM
  #6  
Piff 
Senior Member
Thread Starter
 
Piff's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Southern California
Posts: 1,018
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 469 Post(s)
Liked 227 Times in 147 Posts
Originally Posted by icemilkcoffee View Post
Axle swap is easy enough. But are you sure you want to run a freewheel hub on a mountain bike? These are prone to bent axles even on road bikes.
The bike won't be used really as a mountain bike, so I'm not worried. Mostly intended as a do-anything commuter, pleasure rides, and fire roads.

Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
If the axle is sufficiently long, you could just use spacers to fit the wheel into your frame. @icemilkcoffee's point about bent axles is valid, but you could minimize this risk by putting the spacers on the non-drive side and re-dishing the wheel.
Good to know, would this be serviceable? New Shimano Rear QR Axle for 135mm Drop-outs w/ Cones & nuts Y3CE98020 Y3CC11000 | eBay

Originally Posted by delbiker1 View Post
I do not know mountain bikes, but is the frame steel?
Yep, steel! Though quite thin steel...probably best not to bend it I suppose.

Originally Posted by esasjl View Post
Respacing the non-drive side and redishing as suggested will also even up spoke tensions and improve wheel robustness. I'd also consider an outrigger bearing supporting the freewheel.
The outrigger bearing is an interesting idea...but perhaps a bit beyond me. Re-dishing sounds like a good idea.
Piff is offline  
Old 06-08-22, 09:44 PM
  #7  
WelcomeSir
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2022
Posts: 10
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Liked 11 Times in 5 Posts
I've cold set 2 different road bike frames from 126mm to fit modern 130mm hubs. One of the frames I actually bent from 126mm to 130mm, back to 126mm, and recently back to 130mm. If I did that within a 5 minute period I'm sure it would be a bad story, but I've ridden it extensively without a problem. Steel is real!

Check out RJ the Bike Guy's video titled "Check and Align a Bike Frame" on Youtube. It shows how to make sure the frame is evenly spaced after cold setting. I would have more confidence making the chainstay and seatstays smaller in your case than to "bow" them outward like I have. Road bike chain/seat stays are more likely thinner walled and diameter tubes than a mountain bike so you should be OK. Just my opinion, though.

The long axle and washer/spacer idea is a good idea as well.

Good luck!
WelcomeSir is offline  
Old 06-08-22, 10:00 PM
  #8  
70sSanO
Senior Member
 
70sSanO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Mission Viejo
Posts: 5,410

Bikes: 1986 Cannondale SR400 (Flat bar commuter), 1988 Cannondale Criterium XTR, 1992 Serotta T-Max, 1995 Trek 970

Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1797 Post(s)
Liked 1,927 Times in 1,185 Posts
I’ve re-dished a number of wheels doing a 126/130 conversion. I have yet to run out of spoke threads, but I don’t have the background re-dishing 2.5mm. Since it has been suggested by others, I would have to assume it will work.

Re-dishing with NDS spacers to 135mm OLD definitely makes a stronger wheel.

Since you can do whatever you want, you don’t have to go to 130mm or 135mm. Some mfg’s made frames to accommodate both by setting the dropouts to 132.5mm; they also did this at 128mm in the late 70’s.

You can build a wheel to 132mm or 133mm (with NDS spacer(s)) and not change the bike’s dropouts. You’ll just re-dish a little less. You have to get a new axle anyway. Cut it to the length you need.

John

Last edited by 70sSanO; 06-08-22 at 10:03 PM.
70sSanO is offline  

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2022 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.