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Tenacious stem

Old 09-19-22, 06:56 PM
  #1  
ConnoisseurEqua
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Tenacious stem

Hi
I have a tenacious stem which refuse to leave its hole.
It moves, up and down, turns right or left, but refuses to come out.
I tried gentle, I tried some force.
Nothing.
Any ideas?
Thanks
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Old 09-19-22, 06:57 PM
  #2  
jethin
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Try a lil tenderness?
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Old 09-19-22, 07:55 PM
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How far up does it go? Could it be the wedge is catching on the headset locknut? Maybe tighten the stem bolt a little (but not too tight to move) so the wedge nut stays in line with stem shaft, or try unscrewing the headset locknut?
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Old 09-19-22, 08:26 PM
  #4  
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It's an extra long stem. It goes all the way in. The nut must be 40cm long. Most of it comes out.

I've removed the wedge nut. No change.
I've removed the headset locknut. Removed all bearings for access. No change.

It could be as you said the wedge catching on something but can't see what.

Last edited by ConnoisseurEqua; 09-19-22 at 08:29 PM.
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Old 09-19-22, 09:58 PM
  #5  
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Could you post a couple of pics? I’m stumped. Maybe head badge rivets?
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Old 09-20-22, 06:57 AM
  #6  
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Based on the title, I was expecting to see a photo of the mega-rare Phil Wood handlebar stem.

Seriously though, it seems strange that the stem comes most of the way out, then stops.
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Old 09-20-22, 07:25 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by noobinsf View Post
Maybe head badge rivets?
How would head badge rivets pass through the head tube and into the steerer??
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Old 09-20-22, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua View Post
It's an extra long stem. It goes all the way in. The nut must be 40cm long. Most of it comes out.

I've removed the wedge nut. No change.
I've removed the headset locknut. Removed all bearings for access. No change.

It could be as you said the wedge catching on something but can't see what.
40cm might be the length of the quill not a nut. Pictures would help. Your quill stem has a binder bolt and a wedge, both now removed, correct? You have removed the headset locknet, any spacers/keyed washers and the headset threaded top race from the steerer, correct?
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Old 09-20-22, 10:11 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by smd4 View Post
How would head badge rivets pass through the head tube and into the steerer??
Oh good lord, it was a long day -- clearly a brain fart. Whoops.
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Old 09-20-22, 10:15 AM
  #10  
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This is the stem I'm trying to remove.
I cannot find them anymore so it has to come out.
I will take pics of the stem with everything removed.

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Old 09-20-22, 10:16 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by noobinsf View Post
Oh good lord, it was a long day -- clearly a brain fart. Whoops.
We've all had those.
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Old 09-20-22, 10:17 AM
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Old 09-20-22, 10:17 AM
  #13  
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Are the cables keeping it from lifting out?
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Old 09-20-22, 10:29 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by RustyJames View Post
Are the cables keeping it from lifting out?
Those brake cables are stretched to their limit. Cables can be surprisingly restrictive. I'd unhook those cables and go from there.
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Old 09-20-22, 10:33 AM
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It looks like this type of Humpert stem (taller than the one in the pic I’m posting, which comes from evilbay). Looks like a traditional wedge, no surprises. Yes, if you have not disconnected the cables yet, I agree that this is likely the cause, since you’re able to get all kinds of movement.


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Old 09-20-22, 10:44 AM
  #16  
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Old 09-20-22, 10:46 AM
  #17  
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As one can see all cables removed. Nothing should stop it to come out.
As I mentioned earlier, it moves free, not without effort though.
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Old 09-20-22, 10:55 AM
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If you put the bolt back in, does it drop down all the way?
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Old 09-20-22, 10:58 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by ConnoisseurEqua View Post
As one can see all cables removed. Nothing should stop it to come out.
As I mentioned earlier, it moves free, not without effort though.
Well, you should have said so! You are holding back some details! Have you already used penetrant? It looks like that rust is wet with something.

When you thread the bolt in, are you able to tell if the wedge is loose? If not, smack the bolt with a hammer (with some wood inbetween if you want to keep the bolt looking nice) to get it fully loose. It might be stuck to the bottom of the stem just enough to be keeping the stem locked in the steerer.
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Old 09-20-22, 10:59 AM
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For me, this would be the time to man-handle that thing out.
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Old 09-20-22, 11:07 AM
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I applied WD-40 on both side. The rust is the WD-40 with some rust dust.

I will try to bold it in again and use my rubber mallet. But I don't recall hearing the bottom of the stem moving freely.
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Old 09-20-22, 11:16 AM
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If aesthetics arenít paramount, lots of WD-40 and spin and pull. Iím leaning towards rust on the stem or inside the steerer tube holding things up.
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Old 09-20-22, 03:54 PM
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I thought 40cm was a typo...
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Old 09-20-22, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tricky View Post
...When you thread the bolt in, are you able to tell if the wedge is loose? If not, smack the bolt with a hammer (with some wood inbetween if you want to keep the bolt looking nice) to get it fully loose. It might be stuck to the bottom of the stem just enough to be keeping the stem locked in the steerer.
This is my guess also. Stems like this are locked in place by a wedge-shaped piece of steel which slides on an angled cut at the bottom of the stem. The way to remove the stem is to loosen the stem bolt three or four turns then give the bolt head a good downward smack with a hammer.

At this point you should thread the bolt back into the wedge a few turns and then smack it with a hammer to loosen the wedge. Your rubber mallet may not work, but a dead-blow hammer or a steel hammer should do the job. As mentioned above you can protect the finish on the bolt head with a piece of lumber between the hammer and the bolt.
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Old 09-20-22, 06:43 PM
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Wait, I thought the wedge was already out of the equation, based on post # 4. But now it's sounding more like a garden-variety broken stem. If the wedge has NOT been removed (well, "released" would be more accurate, I suppose), and is still engaged with the bolt, AND the stem proper is broken in two pieces below what we can see, you'll experience just what you're describing. The bottom bit of the broken stem will "affiliate" with the wedge and not want to turn or come out, even while you're lifting and wrestling with the rest of the stem. It's happened to me, but only with aluminum stems, never with steel. That said, never say never....

Try this - Pull upward gently on the stem, and continue turning the bolt counter-clockwise. That upward pressure should (well, might) hold the broken bit / wedge from rotating, and you might eventually get the bolt to unthread entirely from the wedge, releasing it, and the busted bit of stem, to fall into the steerer. Then the main part of the stem should just pull out, and you should be able to flip the bike over and the rest will drop out.

If that's not it, you might also shed some light on your situation by looking from underneath; you may even want to remove the brake bolt, just for a better visual sense of what's going on.
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