t2p

agree

was fortunate to get a used Topstone at a flea market this past summer - great price - and it was more than $200 ... much more ...

livedarklions

You're fine, you just have a few things going on at the same time that make your choices a bit tougher--having a lot of questions isn't being a nuisance.. Trying to answer questions for each other is what these forums are supposed to be for.

The people who get marked as nuisances are the ones that start insulting people when they don't like the answers they're getting.

IN the meantime, are you still going to buy a cheap bike to put on the trainer? I think you'll save yourself a lot of aggravation if you give up on that one being a gravel bike. If all it's going to do is hang out indoors, you don't really need that.

Hope your health continues to improve.

70sSanO

This is a good plan, especially since we are a month and a half from Christmas and the weather in Delaware right now is probably not prime for riding. It gives you plenty of time to research the various mfg's you have been given.

An important part of this is process is determining where you think you will be in terms of this becoming a big part of your life. While it is impossible to know exactly, you probably have a good idea based on other similar activities you have tried in the past with varying degrees of longevity.

The next step is to figure out what size you need, and how you think you will ride in what terrain. The idea is to match the bike to your current and usable future ability. If you can test ride a bike, for more than around the parking lot, that might give you an idea. I think Smyrna is fairly flat so that does help in opening up your choices.

You can buy used if you get an idea of what to look for. Generally my advice is to find an slightly older bike, 5+ years old, on your want list that has not really been used very much. This isn't looking for a $200-$300 offering, but maybe closer to $1000 that has good components, at least 105, but not the latest groups. Tire width is an issue, but I don't know that asphalt trails require tires wider than 32's.

Good luck,

John

Quijote

I know you are looking for new because you don't know enough to spot if a bike is a good deal or a lemon, but you can also look into co ops around you. Many of them get bikes donated, will check to make sure they are in good working order and then sell them. The only issue is finding one that has the gravel bike you want and in your size.

RH Clark

This would be my choice in a budget gravel bike if buying new.
https://www.poseidonbike.com/collect...ucts/dropbar-x

veganbikes

Save up the 2k and you will be much happier in the end. At the 2k mark I would make sure I had Shimano 105 or GRX 600 or SRAM Rival/Force, Hydraulic disc brakes and a carbon fork (ideally if not a steel frame and steel fork). I would want some wide-ish tires at least 35s or a wider 650b.. Some brands can also be a bit pricey for what you get and might be paying for a big logo (Trek Cough Cough) rather than better components but in some cases you can get lifetime warranties on frame and fork which can easily make up for it.

Many shops do offer financing so you could potentially get something even nicer or just stick around the 2k mark and just pay it off in 6 months or more. The shop I work at does a 6 or 12 month program with no interest if paid on time, I did it last year and so glad I did. If you know what you want to do and want to ride more often get a nice bike and enjoy it for a long period of time.

Lombard

Frame warranties are only as good as the company that provides them. Trek is known for trying to get out of paying while claiming user error. Not to mention warranty or crash replacement doesn't come with shop labor to move all the components to the new bike which would probably run around $400.

veganbikes

Correct, that is why I wouldn't recommend Trek, they are expensive billboards with less than ideal components on some of their stuff and from various stories do not have an excellent track record for warranty (amongst other issues). Specialized for instance does really support warranty claims quite well and has done some crash replacement work for stuff that they really should not have. There are some other companies who have also done this but Specialized sticks out a lot but then again I do warranty work and have worked with Specialized a lot.

Herzlos

The advanced is the carbon fibre frame (for $3000),but you can get the aluminium one for half of that : https://www.giant-bicycles.com/us/revolt-2

I've got the Revolt 1 and love it.

Senathon

The main idea was to buy a cheap Walmart bike and put on a trainer and use it for the winter. When spring came along I would take the bike out(we have a lot of old roads) and start getting in better shape. Once I feel that I need a "good" bike( and have the extra money) I would upgrade to something like a Canyon Grail or Eduance Bike.

There are many reasons(one is a doctor's excuse- ) I can provide why I am doing it this way, but the short version is to get me into some basic training and start doing something now.

Herzlos

Buying bikes used can be a bit harder but it's mostly about condition - all but the cheapest and most obscure bikes can be repaired by a bike shop if something turns out to be broken.
Does the seller seem to be interested in bikes and know anything about it? Are they and the property well presented? Stay away from sale posts where the bike isn't described with at least a size. Stuff like "Trek - $400" is almost certainly stolen.

On the bike itself, it's just about judging the condition.
Do the brakes work? Squeeze each brake in turn and see if you can push the bike back or forwards. With the front brake on the front wheel should stay put and the back of the bike will lift, and visa versa.
Do the gears work? Have the seller hold the back wheel off the ground, then you can turn the pedals and change the gears, you should see the gears change up and down. If it doesn't quite reach the ends then it's a simple adjustment, but if it seems a mess then get another bike.
Is the bottom bracket OK? Can you move the pedals/cranks side to side? There should be no movement that way.

Once you're satisfied it's safe to use, adjust the seat to the right height (put the pedal to the bottom of the rotation, put your heel on the pedal and lift the seat until it's under your butt), and then give it a quick ride along the street and back. Does anything seem loose? Does it seem comfortable?


Personally, if I was completely new to cycling, I'd be looking for a fairly simple bike from someone who seems to have looked after it, and try not to spend too much money. Then once you've had it for a while and have a better idea of what you want and what to look for, then go nuts.

Alternatively, if it's just to get a feel for it, I'd have a look at hybrid bikes (like a gravel bike but with a flat bar), since they tend to be a lot cheaper and simpler. Gravel bikes are a lot more expensive (because they are fairly new and super popular, and drop bar levers are much more expensive).

Herzlos

I think that's a good plan. Walmart bikes are looked down on by "bike people" because they are build down to a cost (quite aggressively) so tend to have some pretty low end and near impossible to replace parts. But if it's just to see how you get on and for use on a trainer, and you set your expectations accordingly (that you'll probably give it away to someone within a year), then you're all good.

However, if you've got a sports chain nearby, like Dicks or Decathlon, then I'd try and go there instead as they should at least be a bit better.

Lombard

I would at least step up to an REI Coop bike. Their bikes are pretty decent and won't break the bank. I wouldn't even bet that a Wal-Mart bike would survive the trainer for 1000 miles.

Lombard

Cannondale has excellent support as well.

I know a shop that sells both Specialized and Cannondale. Funny how if you go in there looking at Cannondales, they will always try to bait and switch you to a Specialized. I have to wonder if Specialized has sales volume requirements in order to remain a Specialized dealer.

dedhed

Lots of people have been happy with bikes from Bikes Direct even after paying the LBS to assemble and adjust

Branko D

Decathlon. Not sure about availability in the USA, it’s big in Europe.

If I was ever on a strict budget, I'd buy a Decathlon bike and kit. Hell, their top end cycling kit is 95% as good as the top tier stuff which costs 50% more, and their budget stuff is serviceable, good stuff at really affordable prices.

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GeezyRider 

I agree this is a good option for a new entry level gravel bike such as: Save Up to 60% Off Disc Brake Road Bikes - Motobecane Gravel X1 Gravel Bikes

If you want to go with a Walmart Bike check out KevCentral on YouTube who is famous for testing and reviewing Walmart Bikes like this gravel bike:
Best of luck in your search.

prj71

https://www.framedbikes.com/collections/gravel-bikes

Trakhak

Good recommendation. Looks like a great bike for $500 with free shipping.

On the topic of Bikes Direct: I worked in bike stores on and off over the course of about 20 years and got used to buying bikes at employee discount prices. So when I wanted to buy my first aluminum road bike (after decades of riding and racing high-end steel bikes), Bikes Direct's pricing made them the obvious choice. Still happy with that aluminum bike, and with the carbon bike I bought from them later.

(My only complaint: the aluminum bike was missing the head tube decal. When I emailed the company, the guy who replied amused himself by saying that the decal was left off to save weight. I then emailed the owner of BD, who sent me a complete decal set.)

Tomm Willians

I’ll add a +1 on searching CL. I’m currently selling my 2011 full carbon Orbea Terra Cyclocross bike on Sacramento CL for $750 which includes wheelsets for road or gravel, a mixture of 105 (crank) and DuraAce everywhere else and in good shape. Used is your best bet.

skinz0506

Decathlon's website for the U.S. ships from CA. https://www.decathlon.com/

veganbikes

Good to know. They had a lot of issues back in the day. They became known as Crackandfail or BeerCan-nondale

Not really sure. The shop I worked at was a Cannondale dealer but well before I started but I never got stats on them. Like most companies there are sales volume requirements. Some have lower ones some have higher ones but I would imagine CD has similar they are a large enough company some of the smaller tier ones are just happy for business and want more shops to carry their stuff.

Lombard

Cannondale has come a long way since then. One of their most notable failures was their attempt at motorsports which forced them into Chapter 11 in 2003.

Trakhak

No, Cannondale didn't have "a lot of issues back in the day." I worked in a couple of Cannondale dealerships over the years, including during the first year Cannondale bikes were available. I did see lots of high-end steel bikes with issues: cracked seat clusters, cracked rear dropouts, cracked down tube or seat tube at the bottom bracket---you know, the usual steel frame failure points. Compared to those, Cannondale frame failures were exceedingly rare.

And the term "Crack'n'fail" was just another example of the usual run of sophomoric bike shop joking; cf. "Cramp-and-go-slow," "Shi*mano," and---way before your time---"Flexxon Lafftek." ( = Exxon Graftek, if I have to explain it.)

veganbikes

I have talked with a quite a few mechanics who were in a similar boat and saw the issues maybe I oversold it and yes they have certainly changed over the years. Not saying what you said is not valid but I do have to go with folks I have worked with as well because I knew them personally. I do like the Flexxon Lafftek and no you didn't have to explain.