The importance of bicycle weight for the fifty plus
#26
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I don't know that you'll get a lighter bike that makes you materially faster. But you will accelerate faster, climb faster and be able to ride fast longer.
Light bikes are fun to ride. So for no other reason get one!
Light bikes are fun to ride. So for no other reason get one!
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#28
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I consider 9 kg as light for a road bike. Mine weighs 8 kg and is by far the lightest road bike I have owned. What I do like is that I can easily lift it up and put the front wheel over the hook in my garage to keep it out of the way when not in use. I have a 11.7 kg electric road bike and that I keep in a shed in a floor rack.
On the road the main difference is that the e-bike had too great a spread with the OEM 44t chainring and 11-42t cassette (which I changed for a 11-34t one), as compared to my Trek 5200 that has 53/39 chainrings and a 12-25 cassette. Bike weight matters when accelerating and going up hills but it matters far less than the gearing of the bike.
I bought the electric road bike because where I ride I often encounter 8-15 mph headwinds and with the e-bike I can maintain the same speed as with my regular road bike with no wind. I get more aerobic conditioning and enjoy the rides more.
Going up a grade the energy expended is recovered in large part on the downhill sections but with wind this is not the case. A side wind exerts two-thirds the vector force of a head wind so 75% of the time the wind is likely to an obstacle.
On the road the main difference is that the e-bike had too great a spread with the OEM 44t chainring and 11-42t cassette (which I changed for a 11-34t one), as compared to my Trek 5200 that has 53/39 chainrings and a 12-25 cassette. Bike weight matters when accelerating and going up hills but it matters far less than the gearing of the bike.
I bought the electric road bike because where I ride I often encounter 8-15 mph headwinds and with the e-bike I can maintain the same speed as with my regular road bike with no wind. I get more aerobic conditioning and enjoy the rides more.
Going up a grade the energy expended is recovered in large part on the downhill sections but with wind this is not the case. A side wind exerts two-thirds the vector force of a head wind so 75% of the time the wind is likely to an obstacle.
#29
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@hsea17 - the correct answer to the question (as always) is = "it depends".
very hilly terrain or mostly flat? Weight or aero proposition to decide.
then there is the 'personal cycling goal' aspect you must decide.
the value proposition? How light is light enough? CF bolts?
other hobbies where the $$$ are better spent?
and my personal killer = occasional impulsive buyer.
go for it.
the real question is = ¿Why not?
edit: Of course, you are not selling the 'old' bike so, nothing to lose! Go top level Dura Ace & nice CF wheels.
very hilly terrain or mostly flat? Weight or aero proposition to decide.
then there is the 'personal cycling goal' aspect you must decide.
the value proposition? How light is light enough? CF bolts?
other hobbies where the $$$ are better spent?
and my personal killer = occasional impulsive buyer.
go for it.
the real question is = ¿Why not?
edit: Of course, you are not selling the 'old' bike so, nothing to lose! Go top level Dura Ace & nice CF wheels.
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Vintage, modern, e-road. It is a big cycling universe.
Last edited by Wildwood; 02-13-23 at 10:17 PM.
#30
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I would encourage you to read Heft on Wheels by Mike Magnuson. He talks about climbing and accelerating faster by losing weight.
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#32
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Those used to be standard fare on every bike weight thread.
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#34
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Shedding bike weight is easy and permanent if one has the wallet for it.
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#35
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Frame geometry and proper adjustment for the rider are big factors and there is often a trade-off between optimum geometry for climbing and a bike that is comfortable and stable on steep downgrades. Bikes like the Trek Domane and the Specialized Roubaix have what I would want in a road bike that is great overall. The Giant TCR Advanced Pro 2 is another bike suited for climbing and a good value at $2500 and weighs less than 8 kg. The Trek and Specialized bikes have a wide variety of components so one can get the frame and put less money in the non-essentials to get a more reasonable price of around $3500 for the carbon frame models.
#36
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I used to bring food and water on my long rides but now I normally stop somewhere for a coffee and a sandwich. To do that requires me to bring a lock. So any weight savings just cancels out.
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#38
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That's an advantage of group rides, someone can watch the bikes while others get food. A friend had his bike stolen when he went into a mini mart while alone.
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#40
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Frame geometry and proper adjustment for the rider are big factors and there is often a trade-off between optimum geometry for climbing and a bike that is comfortable and stable on steep downgrades. Bikes like the Trek Domane and the Specialized Roubaix have what I would want in a road bike that is great overall. The Giant TCR Advanced Pro 2 is another bike suited for climbing and a good value at $2500 and weighs less than 8 kg. The Trek and Specialized bikes have a wide variety of components so one can get the frame and put less money in the non-essentials to get a more reasonable price of around $3500 for the carbon frame models.
So many different TCR Advanced with different components it's confusing. I could imagine one like the one in the link above, but I'm afraid it will be too aggressive in my usual M size as I should have a Toptube of only 535mm and a Hed tube of 155-160mm!
hsea17
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#42
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Would there be any benefits for a man well over 60 who exercises regularly but varies the week between slow jogging/swimming and cycling 3-5 hours with a lighter bike except when I carry it up the stairs? My current bike weighs about 9 kg + ! I can still cycle at a speed of 17 - 19 mph but then it's mostly flat road? I have a low/normal body weight versus height so not much to gain by losing weight and could actually like to gain a few kilos, but in muscle but that is not easy at this age.
Any input welomehsea17
#44
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Time for the moderators to close this tread before it slips out for more irrelevant nonsense answers. I have received some valuable input and take them with me.
hsea17
hsea17
#45
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Those are old school. A Fleet Enema (as anyone who has a rectal exam can testify) is a sure way to get rid of dead weight. (I don’t do this if the question comes up)
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#47
Old guy & bikes
IMO, reducing bike weight below 20 pounds is diminishing returns. Small performance improvement for big money. I personally don’t see the benefit, but my focus is on touring.
My only use for a light road bike is so I won’t finish a club ride when the last car is leaving the parking lot. I do get it, I was thinking about buying a road bike made in this century, with indexed gears. But I have to keep my spending in check. Anyway, I really like my 1980 Raleigh Pro.
My only use for a light road bike is so I won’t finish a club ride when the last car is leaving the parking lot. I do get it, I was thinking about buying a road bike made in this century, with indexed gears. But I have to keep my spending in check. Anyway, I really like my 1980 Raleigh Pro.
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After rereading the thread, I would take saddlebag, water bottles, helmet, shoes/everything for the ride down except the bike. Then, make a 2nd trip for the bike. The extra flight of stairs each ride will be benefical for your health. Might even put some more muscle on your legs. Win win.
Edit: It seems we had a similar thread where a guy was carrying his bike down a lot of stairs and wanted to do something about his shoes possibly slipping on the stairs. He didn't want to remove his shoes for the stairs and was asking for suggestions.
Edit: It seems we had a similar thread where a guy was carrying his bike down a lot of stairs and wanted to do something about his shoes possibly slipping on the stairs. He didn't want to remove his shoes for the stairs and was asking for suggestions.
Last edited by seypat; 02-17-23 at 10:36 AM.
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After rereading the thread, I would take saddlebag, water bottles, helmet, shoes/everything for the ride down except the bike. Then, make a 2nd trip for the bike. The extra flight of stairs each ride will be benefical for your health. Might even put some more muscle on your legs. Win win.
Edit: It seems we had a similar thread where a guy was carrying his bike down a lot of stairs and wanted to do something about his shoes possibly slipping on the stairs. He didn't want to remove his shoes for the stairs and was asking for suggestions.
Edit: It seems we had a similar thread where a guy was carrying his bike down a lot of stairs and wanted to do something about his shoes possibly slipping on the stairs. He didn't want to remove his shoes for the stairs and was asking for suggestions.
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My Technium comes in at 20 pounds and that is my long-distance bike. That's about the same weight as your bike. I'm 65 and it is light enough for me.
What kind of stretching do you do, and how do you feel after a long ride?
What kind of stretching do you do, and how do you feel after a long ride?
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