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The importance of bicycle weight for the fifty plus

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Old 02-13-23, 10:49 AM
  #26  
Iride01 
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I don't know that you'll get a lighter bike that makes you materially faster. But you will accelerate faster, climb faster and be able to ride fast longer.

Light bikes are fun to ride. So for no other reason get one!
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Old 02-13-23, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by rumrunn6
sounds like the OP's bike is pretty light, as it is. maybe he needs a heavier bike
I’d suggest a shiny brass bell like a Crane. They have a copper plated one that’s quite nice.
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Old 02-13-23, 01:44 PM
  #28  
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I consider 9 kg as light for a road bike. Mine weighs 8 kg and is by far the lightest road bike I have owned. What I do like is that I can easily lift it up and put the front wheel over the hook in my garage to keep it out of the way when not in use. I have a 11.7 kg electric road bike and that I keep in a shed in a floor rack.

On the road the main difference is that the e-bike had too great a spread with the OEM 44t chainring and 11-42t cassette (which I changed for a 11-34t one), as compared to my Trek 5200 that has 53/39 chainrings and a 12-25 cassette. Bike weight matters when accelerating and going up hills but it matters far less than the gearing of the bike.

I bought the electric road bike because where I ride I often encounter 8-15 mph headwinds and with the e-bike I can maintain the same speed as with my regular road bike with no wind. I get more aerobic conditioning and enjoy the rides more.

Going up a grade the energy expended is recovered in large part on the downhill sections but with wind this is not the case. A side wind exerts two-thirds the vector force of a head wind so 75% of the time the wind is likely to an obstacle.
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Old 02-13-23, 10:00 PM
  #29  
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@hsea17 - the correct answer to the question (as always) is = "it depends".

very hilly terrain or mostly flat? Weight or aero proposition to decide.

then there is the 'personal cycling goal' aspect you must decide.

the value proposition? How light is light enough? CF bolts?

other hobbies where the $$$ are better spent?

and my personal killer = occasional impulsive buyer.

go for it.

the real question is = ¿Why not?

edit: Of course, you are not selling the 'old' bike so, nothing to lose! Go top level Dura Ace & nice CF wheels.
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Old 02-15-23, 07:39 AM
  #30  
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I would encourage you to read Heft on Wheels by Mike Magnuson. He talks about climbing and accelerating faster by losing weight.
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Old 02-15-23, 09:42 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by boozergut
I would encourage you to read Heft on Wheels by Mike Magnuson. He talks about climbing and accelerating faster by losing weight.
In the OP he said he is light or below normal.
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Old 02-15-23, 09:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by big john
In the OP he said he is light or below normal.
It never fails:

On a BF thread about bike weight, the probability that someone will recommend losing body weight is one.
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Old 02-15-23, 10:11 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by terrymorse
It never fails:

On a BF thread about bike weight, the probability that someone will recommend losing body weight is one.
Surprisingly, the old recommendations of taking a dump before riding or leaving a water bottle at home have not appeared in a while.
Those used to be standard fare on every bike weight thread.
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Old 02-15-23, 10:20 AM
  #34  
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Shedding bike weight is easy and permanent if one has the wallet for it.
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Old 02-15-23, 12:00 PM
  #35  
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Frame geometry and proper adjustment for the rider are big factors and there is often a trade-off between optimum geometry for climbing and a bike that is comfortable and stable on steep downgrades. Bikes like the Trek Domane and the Specialized Roubaix have what I would want in a road bike that is great overall. The Giant TCR Advanced Pro 2 is another bike suited for climbing and a good value at $2500 and weighs less than 8 kg. The Trek and Specialized bikes have a wide variety of components so one can get the frame and put less money in the non-essentials to get a more reasonable price of around $3500 for the carbon frame models.
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Old 02-15-23, 12:01 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by big john
Surprisingly, the old recommendations of taking a dump before riding or leaving a water bottle at home have not appeared in a while.
Those used to be standard fare on every bike weight thread.
I used to bring food and water on my long rides but now I normally stop somewhere for a coffee and a sandwich. To do that requires me to bring a lock. So any weight savings just cancels out.
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Old 02-15-23, 01:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by terrymorse
It never fails:

On a BF thread about bike weight, the probability that someone will recommend losing body weight is one.
Originally Posted by big john
Surprisingly, the old recommendations of taking a dump before riding or leaving a water bottle at home have not appeared in a while.
Those used to be standard fare on every bike weight thread.
10 pounds lost in minutes with my Bilateral Orchiectomy thanks to Prostate Cancer. Made ALL THINGS bike riding more enjoyable but slowed me down 'cause of no *T*
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Old 02-15-23, 01:29 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Daniel4
I used to bring food and water on my long rides but now I normally stop somewhere for a coffee and a sandwich. To do that requires me to bring a lock. So any weight savings just cancels out.
That's an advantage of group rides, someone can watch the bikes while others get food. A friend had his bike stolen when he went into a mini mart while alone.
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Old 02-15-23, 01:38 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by OldTryGuy
10 pounds lost in minutes with my Bilateral Orchiectomy thanks to Prostate Cancer. Made ALL THINGS bike riding more enjoyable but slowed me down 'cause of no *T*
I'll pass but if mine were 10 pounds I might consider losing 1 of them.
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Old 02-16-23, 09:23 AM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by Calsun
Frame geometry and proper adjustment for the rider are big factors and there is often a trade-off between optimum geometry for climbing and a bike that is comfortable and stable on steep downgrades. Bikes like the Trek Domane and the Specialized Roubaix have what I would want in a road bike that is great overall. The Giant TCR Advanced Pro 2 is another bike suited for climbing and a good value at $2500 and weighs less than 8 kg. The Trek and Specialized bikes have a wide variety of components so one can get the frame and put less money in the non-essentials to get a more reasonable price of around $3500 for the carbon frame models.
Absolutely agree. Is this the Giant you refer to above Giant TCR Advanced Pro 1 Disc (2021) review - BikeRadar
So many different TCR Advanced with different components it's confusing. I could imagine one like the one in the link above, but I'm afraid it will be too aggressive in my usual M size as I should have a Toptube of only 535mm and a Hed tube of 155-160mm!
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Old 02-16-23, 09:33 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by LeeG
I’d suggest a shiny brass bell like a Crane. They have a copper plated one that’s quite nice.
I have one already gold plated that goes well with my 24 Karat "only when riding" bicycle necklace and ankle chain.
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Old 02-16-23, 11:45 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by big john
I'll pass but if mine were 10 pounds I might consider losing 1 of them.
You know, the average human head weighs about 10 pounds.

Not giving anyone ideas, mind you.
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Old 02-16-23, 11:53 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by hsea17
Would there be any benefits for a man well over 60 who exercises regularly but varies the week between slow jogging/swimming and cycling 3-5 hours with a lighter bike except when I carry it up the stairs? My current bike weighs about 9 kg + ! I can still cycle at a speed of 17 - 19 mph but then it's mostly flat road? I have a low/normal body weight versus height so not much to gain by losing weight and could actually like to gain a few kilos, but in muscle but that is not easy at this age.
Any input welome
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It strictly depends on the color. For instance, a black bike would be no help at all.
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Old 02-16-23, 07:14 PM
  #44  
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Time for the moderators to close this tread before it slips out for more irrelevant nonsense answers. I have received some valuable input and take them with me.
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Old 02-16-23, 08:00 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by big john
Surprisingly, the old recommendations of taking a dump before riding or leaving a water bottle at home have not appeared in a while.
Those used to be standard fare on every bike weight thread.
Those are old school. A Fleet Enema (as anyone who has a rectal exam can testify) is a sure way to get rid of dead weight. (I don’t do this if the question comes up)
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Old 02-16-23, 08:42 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by hsea17
Time for the moderators to close this tread before it slips out for more irrelevant nonsense answers. I have received some valuable input and take them with me.
hsea17
Irrelevant nonsense can be funny sometimes. It's how we keep it light (no pun intended).
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Old 02-17-23, 09:48 AM
  #47  
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IMO, reducing bike weight below 20 pounds is diminishing returns. Small performance improvement for big money. I personally don’t see the benefit, but my focus is on touring.

My only use for a light road bike is so I won’t finish a club ride when the last car is leaving the parking lot. I do get it, I was thinking about buying a road bike made in this century, with indexed gears. But I have to keep my spending in check. Anyway, I really like my 1980 Raleigh Pro.
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Old 02-17-23, 10:32 AM
  #48  
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After rereading the thread, I would take saddlebag, water bottles, helmet, shoes/everything for the ride down except the bike. Then, make a 2nd trip for the bike. The extra flight of stairs each ride will be benefical for your health. Might even put some more muscle on your legs. Win win.

Edit: It seems we had a similar thread where a guy was carrying his bike down a lot of stairs and wanted to do something about his shoes possibly slipping on the stairs. He didn't want to remove his shoes for the stairs and was asking for suggestions.

Last edited by seypat; 02-17-23 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 02-17-23, 10:45 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by seypat
After rereading the thread, I would take saddlebag, water bottles, helmet, shoes/everything for the ride down except the bike. Then, make a 2nd trip for the bike. The extra flight of stairs each ride will be benefical for your health. Might even put some more muscle on your legs. Win win.

Edit: It seems we had a similar thread where a guy was carrying his bike down a lot of stairs and wanted to do something about his shoes possibly slipping on the stairs. He didn't want to remove his shoes for the stairs and was asking for suggestions.
For 16 years I lived in a house with a ridiculously steep driveway which had a 90 degree turn in it. I could ride up it on my bikes but when I returned from a long ride it was a struggle and would send my HR through the red line. I could not walk up it in road shoes so sometimes I would stash my flip flops at the bottom of the driveway.
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Old 02-17-23, 02:04 PM
  #50  
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My Technium comes in at 20 pounds and that is my long-distance bike. That's about the same weight as your bike. I'm 65 and it is light enough for me.
What kind of stretching do you do, and how do you feel after a long ride?
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