Show me your Raleigh 20?
Likes For Cyclespanner:
05-17-23, 04:10 AM
#77
55+ Club,...
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Somewhere in New York, NY
Posts: 4,322
Bikes: 9+,...
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1112 Post(s)
Liked 847 Times
in
591 Posts
People here try to get higher prices, but a knowledgeable individual can get a good deal with this. They wanted to negotiate, but I stated I wasn't going to purchase it. Too involved for me. LoL!
__________________
If it wasn't for you meddling kids,...
06-08-23, 01:16 PM
#78
Newbie
locking bolt for hinge mechanism?
Hi All!
I'm having trouble posting on this site, but it's my first bike forum foray, so I'll try again...
I just picked up a twenty from a friend. seems to be in mint condition, apart from the locking bolt, which someone replaced with a strait Hex-headed through-threaded bolt. After visiting the Sheldon Brown page, I sorta but not really understand how the bolt works, and there is a suggestion of how to machine the part yourself, and this leads to my questions:
--Has anyone machined the bolt successfully?
--Is there anywhere to buy one, used or NOS?
--Has anyone found good alternate solutions to the original bolt set-up?
The bike is perfectly rideable as is, but folding is its raison d'être, and I don't want to rob it of its potential...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
I'm having trouble posting on this site, but it's my first bike forum foray, so I'll try again...
I just picked up a twenty from a friend. seems to be in mint condition, apart from the locking bolt, which someone replaced with a strait Hex-headed through-threaded bolt. After visiting the Sheldon Brown page, I sorta but not really understand how the bolt works, and there is a suggestion of how to machine the part yourself, and this leads to my questions:
--Has anyone machined the bolt successfully?
--Is there anywhere to buy one, used or NOS?
--Has anyone found good alternate solutions to the original bolt set-up?
The bike is perfectly rideable as is, but folding is its raison d'être, and I don't want to rob it of its potential...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
06-09-23, 08:54 AM
#80
Senior Member
Can’t say I have ever heard or seen one machined for replacement. I’m sure it’s possible but the cost?
If you ask around, someone might have an extra bolt and nut that was original to the Raleigh.
keep us posted and after 10, pics can happen.
If you ask around, someone might have an extra bolt and nut that was original to the Raleigh.
keep us posted and after 10, pics can happen.
Likes For denkoz20:
Likes For denkoz20:
06-09-23, 01:37 PM
#84
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 177
Bikes: Several
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 164 Times
in
91 Posts
Hi All!
I'm having trouble posting on this site, but it's my first bike forum foray, so I'll try again...
I just picked up a twenty from a friend. seems to be in mint condition, apart from the locking bolt, which someone replaced with a strait Hex-headed through-threaded bolt. After visiting the Sheldon Brown page, I sorta but not really understand how the bolt works, and there is a suggestion of how to machine the part yourself, and this leads to my questions:
--Has anyone machined the bolt successfully?
--Is there anywhere to buy one, used or NOS?
--Has anyone found good alternate solutions to the original bolt set-up?
The bike is perfectly rideable as is, but folding is its raison d'être, and I don't want to rob it of its potential...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
I'm having trouble posting on this site, but it's my first bike forum foray, so I'll try again...
I just picked up a twenty from a friend. seems to be in mint condition, apart from the locking bolt, which someone replaced with a strait Hex-headed through-threaded bolt. After visiting the Sheldon Brown page, I sorta but not really understand how the bolt works, and there is a suggestion of how to machine the part yourself, and this leads to my questions:
--Has anyone machined the bolt successfully?
--Is there anywhere to buy one, used or NOS?
--Has anyone found good alternate solutions to the original bolt set-up?
The bike is perfectly rideable as is, but folding is its raison d'être, and I don't want to rob it of its potential...
Any help would be greatly appreciated...
06-10-23, 10:20 AM
#86
Tinker-er
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450
Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
183 Posts
One does not have to machine the bolt, per-se, you only need to stick the bolt into a drill then file off about 15mm of thread towards the head of the bolt. You just need to carry a wrench to loosen/tighten the bolt when you want to fold it up.
06-10-23, 11:20 AM
#87
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 177
Bikes: Several
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 164 Times
in
91 Posts
It's worth mentioning.....the 20's were designed using Imperial measurements (feet 'n inches).
So using a regular foot rule you'll find everything drops into place.
It isn't a metric machine in any way, though US and other markets did get the dimensionally smaller 'metric 15inch' rims and tyres!
So using a regular foot rule you'll find everything drops into place.
It isn't a metric machine in any way, though US and other markets did get the dimensionally smaller 'metric 15inch' rims and tyres!
06-11-23, 07:02 AM
#88
Newbie
Another question: is there an easy way to determine how old the Twenty is?
Likes For denkoz20:
06-11-23, 09:03 AM
#89
Schwinnasaur
You can get a close approximation by finding the year stamped on Sturmey-Archer rear hub. Year, just two numbers, then space and the month. While this is the date of just the hub, it should be close.
Likes For Schwinnsta:
Likes For Cyclespanner:
Likes For Cyclespanner:
06-25-23, 11:57 AM
#92
Tinker-er
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450
Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
183 Posts
Here's my green R20 from probably 1971, according to the Sturmey AW that came on the bike. What's left which is original are the frame, fork, mudguards, and bottom bracket. This bike came to me already a bit of a project, so I really went for it.
Next thing to go will be the chrome mudguards. I like them, but for riding, I really want a set of newer, lighter ones, so I'll be adding a set of Blumels sometime this week. Need to find some P-clamps to attach the stays to the fork.
The Redshift stem is a great addition to the bike and really helps with fatigue. I had a 3 speed on this prior and have taken a few 20 mile rides, and didn't experience the harsh vibration that the other R20 we have gives.
The Sturmey RXL-RD5 is a finicky beast. I've found that it's quite sensitive to chain tension, and likes to be ever so slightly looser than how I'm used to setting up an AW. If it's just a smidge too tight, it will automatically shift from 3 to 5 or 4 to 5. This happened the other night when on a test ride and I was not putting much force into the pedals, so I think I'm still good to go. Today's ride of a few miles gave me no bad noises, no auto-shifting, it was great. I set it up with a 20 tooth cog paired with my 46 tooth Williams ring and crankset, it will give a good spread of gears for my commute. I have a ~3 mile climb from the Schuylkill River up to my work in Germantown, Philly.
The bike is already heavy but I'm thinking of adding an Abus cafe lock so I could fold it up, wrap it around a pole, and secure it with the heavy chain compatible with the Abus. We'll see if I'm really up for that when I get the new mudguards on.
Both of the Twentys we have are fantastic bikes and ride so well, that I just want more excuses to use them.
Happy riding all, stay cool and hydrated.
Next thing to go will be the chrome mudguards. I like them, but for riding, I really want a set of newer, lighter ones, so I'll be adding a set of Blumels sometime this week. Need to find some P-clamps to attach the stays to the fork.
The Redshift stem is a great addition to the bike and really helps with fatigue. I had a 3 speed on this prior and have taken a few 20 mile rides, and didn't experience the harsh vibration that the other R20 we have gives.
The Sturmey RXL-RD5 is a finicky beast. I've found that it's quite sensitive to chain tension, and likes to be ever so slightly looser than how I'm used to setting up an AW. If it's just a smidge too tight, it will automatically shift from 3 to 5 or 4 to 5. This happened the other night when on a test ride and I was not putting much force into the pedals, so I think I'm still good to go. Today's ride of a few miles gave me no bad noises, no auto-shifting, it was great. I set it up with a 20 tooth cog paired with my 46 tooth Williams ring and crankset, it will give a good spread of gears for my commute. I have a ~3 mile climb from the Schuylkill River up to my work in Germantown, Philly.
The bike is already heavy but I'm thinking of adding an Abus cafe lock so I could fold it up, wrap it around a pole, and secure it with the heavy chain compatible with the Abus. We'll see if I'm really up for that when I get the new mudguards on.
Both of the Twentys we have are fantastic bikes and ride so well, that I just want more excuses to use them.
Happy riding all, stay cool and hydrated.
Last edited by PhilFo; 06-25-23 at 06:22 PM.
Likes For PhilFo:
06-25-23, 04:31 PM
#93
Newbie
got the key!
On a trip to London, could pick up the locking bolt, and now I just need to fly back to the states, post another couple of times, and can show some pics of the twenty--she's not bad for an old girl! thanks again for the ebay link!
06-26-23, 12:30 AM
#95
Newbie
...another thing
Well, I suppose this is just a way to add a post so when I get back to the states and my new twenty I can post some pics, but I couldn't help noticing the difference in the top of the forks between different twenty models. my question is: is there a function to that odd, tubelike bit that many twenties (including mine) seem to have? Are these older models, and did that feature disappear later on? Thanks
06-26-23, 02:52 AM
#96
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 177
Bikes: Several
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 164 Times
in
91 Posts
Well, I suppose this is just a way to add a post so when I get back to the states and my new twenty I can post some pics, but I couldn't help noticing the difference in the top of the forks between different twenty models. my question is: is there a function to that odd, tubelike bit that many twenties (including mine) seem to have? Are these older models, and did that feature disappear later on? Thanks
06-26-23, 05:21 AM
#97
Tinker-er
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Mid-Atlantic
Posts: 450
Bikes: 1956 Rudge Sports; 1983 Univega Alpina Uno; 1981 Miyata 610; 1973 Raleigh Twenty; 1994 Breezer Lightning XTR; V4 Yuba Mundo aka "The Schlepper"; 1987 Raleigh "The Edge" Mountain Trials; 1952 R.O. Harrison "Madison"
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 165 Post(s)
Liked 267 Times
in
183 Posts
It's just one way to build a fork crown that Raleigh used for many years.
06-26-23, 07:14 AM
#98
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 177
Bikes: Several
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 164 Times
in
91 Posts
denkoz20, do you mean the nylon top bush/bearing?
If so, that was common to ALL RSW/20models and the derivatives.
It was designed to act as a steering damper to eliminate front wheel shimmies.
As it was used for years, then Raleigh must have been happy with its function.
If so, that was common to ALL RSW/20models and the derivatives.
It was designed to act as a steering damper to eliminate front wheel shimmies.
As it was used for years, then Raleigh must have been happy with its function.
06-26-23, 10:07 AM
#99
Newbie
Since I can't post a photo yet, I mean the part of the fork most clearly seen in the third of PhilFo's pictures...right above the fender--it's round in profile. PhilFo has also kindly replied, calling it a fork crown. I can't refer directly to my Twenty, as she's some 6000 miles away, but I notice some of the bikes depicted here and elsewhere are without this particular feature.
06-26-23, 10:51 AM
#100
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2023
Location: Yorkshire
Posts: 177
Bikes: Several
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 74 Post(s)
Liked 164 Times
in
91 Posts
Ah! I see what you mean.
See my post #67, my 4 20's are none folders and don't have the same crown as PhilFo's example.
A quick search indicates that one was fitted to the folders. Never noticed the difference before.
My Triumph is an early one; the seat post clamp was part of the frame, not a separate fitting.
It also has a 'swan neck' steering column, where the later ones were straight.
The later U-frame 20's reverted to the 'swan neck'.
See my post #67, my 4 20's are none folders and don't have the same crown as PhilFo's example.
A quick search indicates that one was fitted to the folders. Never noticed the difference before.
My Triumph is an early one; the seat post clamp was part of the frame, not a separate fitting.
It also has a 'swan neck' steering column, where the later ones were straight.
The later U-frame 20's reverted to the 'swan neck'.