Sealant Choice for Sewups and Tubed Clinchers
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Sealant Choice for Sewups and Tubed Clinchers
I purchased some Continental Revo sealant recently, thinking it would be the best formulation to use in some Conti Sprinter sewups and maybe also in some Conti tubes for my clinchers (Conti tubes seem to always have replaceable valve stems). The plan is to use it for prevention, 1 or 2 ounces.
Wondering what others are using, Stans, Vittoria, MuckOff, Caffelatex, Orange Seal, even Slime for bicycles (readily and cheaply available at Walmart) and whether they are using it for clincher tubes and/or sewups. Not running tubeless, so not interested in how sealant is being used for those.
thanks.
Wondering what others are using, Stans, Vittoria, MuckOff, Caffelatex, Orange Seal, even Slime for bicycles (readily and cheaply available at Walmart) and whether they are using it for clincher tubes and/or sewups. Not running tubeless, so not interested in how sealant is being used for those.
thanks.
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I have some Muc-Off Inner Tube Sealant that I'm trying this season. I tried Stan's in the inner tubes last year and wasn't real happy with it. I had a couple of flats that it didn't seal. I think it had more to do with the pressure of a road tire than the size of the puncture since both were pin-pricks from tiny wires. Made for a messy tube replacement.
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I purchased some Continental Revo sealant recently, thinking it would be the best formulation to use in some Conti Sprinter sewups and maybe also in some Conti tubes for my clinchers (Conti tubes seem to always have replaceable valve stems). The plan is to use it for prevention, 1 or 2 ounces.
Wondering what others are using, Stans, Vittoria, MuckOff, Caffelatex, Orange Seal, even Slime for bicycles (readily and cheaply available at Walmart) and whether they are using it for clincher tubes and/or sewups. Not running tubeless, so not interested in how sealant is being used for those.
thanks.
Wondering what others are using, Stans, Vittoria, MuckOff, Caffelatex, Orange Seal, even Slime for bicycles (readily and cheaply available at Walmart) and whether they are using it for clincher tubes and/or sewups. Not running tubeless, so not interested in how sealant is being used for those.
thanks.
A little over 2 years ago when I first started riding tubulars, a young racer employee at LBS told me not to use Stans in latex tubes. He said it has ammonia which will eventually dissolve latex. I have no idea if this is true, have not heard it from any other source but, as he lost a sale as a result (not having anything but Stans), I decided to heed his advice. I think I have read in BF of others using Stans without reporting dissolved tubes.
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my vote is caffelatex. it seems to have worked for me in a tubed setup and haven't had any flats on my tubular...... I ride at pretty high pressures with does not seem really a good mix with sealant and tube set up (made a lot of messes with orange seal) I tried slime a long time ago and it was a total disaster.
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A little over 2 years ago when I first started riding tubulars, a young racer employee at LBS told me not to use Stans in latex tubes. He said it has ammonia which will eventually dissolve latex. I have no idea if this is true, have not heard it from any other source but, as he lost a sale as a result (not having anything but Stans), I decided to heed his advice. I think I have read in BF of others using Stans without reporting dissolved tubes.
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No opinions yet for Continental Revo? Guess I will be the guinea pig and report back.
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That's good to know. I was just starting out with tubulars and therefore very impressionable. Good to have more options!
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I've used Orange sealant in the tubes of one of my commuting bikes; just one puncture over a year's use which was caused by a sharp stone and ripped the tyre. I binned the tube, it made a bit of a mess. For information the tyres are Conti Ultra Sport 700x25, inflated to about 100PSI at the back and 95 front.
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I have some Muc-Off Inner Tube Sealant that I'm trying this season. I tried Stan's in the inner tubes last year and wasn't real happy with it. I had a couple of flats that it didn't seal. I think it had more to do with the pressure of a road tire than the size of the puncture since both were pin-pricks from tiny wires. Made for a messy tube replacement.
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My experience is that thicker stuff works better (stans race, oko magic milk hi-fibre) and only with latex tubes. Butyl tubes seem to be initially sealed but when put back to motion, they leak again almost immediately.
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Do you need to refresh the sealant? Does it harden up? Are punchers obvious while riding the bike, air presser lost?
Can't seem to find much about the life of the tube hidden inside the tire, were as a tubeless tire, life is more clear.
#13
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Sealant behaves quite the same as with tubeless setups, so it will eventually dry up in the tube. I’ve re-added sealant few times before tossing the tube. Oko is water based, so there should be a possibility to refresh dried sealant to some extent by adding water, but ymmv.
I’d say a puncture will always result to air loss and depending on how long it takes to seal, pumping tire back to preferred pressure might or might not be needed. Most often I notice there’s been a puncture only after the fact, when my front tire and steering starts to get squirmy.
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Punctures are quite the same experience with ”proper” tubeless and latex tubes with sealant. First there’s a hiss/spray and then there’s not. With butyl tubes, all I’ve got is a hiss/spray and a disappointment. I guess with tubeless it’s possible to survive larger punctures, but it’s just a guess, I have no experience having mtb style gaping holes in my tires.
Sealant behaves quite the same as with tubeless setups, so it will eventually dry up in the tube. I’ve re-added sealant few times before tossing the tube. Oko is water based, so there should be a possibility to refresh dried sealant to some extent by adding water, but ymmv.
I’d say a puncture will always result to air loss and depending on how long it takes to seal, pumping tire back to preferred pressure might or might not be needed. Most often I notice there’s been a puncture only after the fact, when my front tire and steering starts to get squirmy.
Sealant behaves quite the same as with tubeless setups, so it will eventually dry up in the tube. I’ve re-added sealant few times before tossing the tube. Oko is water based, so there should be a possibility to refresh dried sealant to some extent by adding water, but ymmv.
I’d say a puncture will always result to air loss and depending on how long it takes to seal, pumping tire back to preferred pressure might or might not be needed. Most often I notice there’s been a puncture only after the fact, when my front tire and steering starts to get squirmy.
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I have patched some sealant filled butyl tubes after sealant did not work and it can be bit more messy, especially if there are multiple punctures. I figure it could be harder to make the patch to stick due sealant residue, but fixing one hole at a time, I’ve had no problems. I’ve never patched a latex tube with sealant, so cannot say but it’s probably the same story there.
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I have some Muc-Off Inner Tube Sealant that I'm trying this season. I tried Stan's in the inner tubes last year and wasn't real happy with it. I had a couple of flats that it didn't seal. I think it had more to do with the pressure of a road tire than the size of the puncture since both were pin-pricks from tiny wires. Made for a messy tube replacement.
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Talking to the guys using Tubulars I have found most in the Central Texas area using Caffelatex or Stans. Never Slime or Mukoff. Truly considering what a good set of Tubulars or even regular tires are costing these days I would not skimp on unproven tire sealant...
I find allot of riders have false expectations of the effectiveness of tire sealants.
I find allot of riders have false expectations of the effectiveness of tire sealants.
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