Need advice on re-installing rear wheel with RD-R800 derailleur
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Need advice on re-installing rear wheel with RD-R800 derailleur
Hi,
I recently built up a new road bike and decided to use an RD-R8000 rear derailleur since I’d read good things about them. The first time I needed to change a rear flat, however, I was amazed and frustrated at how difficult it was to re-install the wheel compared with the Ultegra 6800 that I’d used on my old bike. What’s the best way to deal with this? I dread having to change a flat on the road if I can’t find a better technique.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Bel Air, MD
I recently built up a new road bike and decided to use an RD-R8000 rear derailleur since I’d read good things about them. The first time I needed to change a rear flat, however, I was amazed and frustrated at how difficult it was to re-install the wheel compared with the Ultegra 6800 that I’d used on my old bike. What’s the best way to deal with this? I dread having to change a flat on the road if I can’t find a better technique.
Thanks in advance,
Mark
Bel Air, MD
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It's no different from any other rear derailleur. What's your order of operations? Bike right side up or upside down?
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Cxwrench,
Thanks for your reply. I have the bike in my repair stand.
I’ve worked with several derailleurs over the course of my cycling career, and this one is different. When the wheel is removed, the cage pulls up tight against the body with considerable spring tension holding it there. Whereas the usual procedure is to put the small cog on the chain and pull back until the axle is seated in the dropouts, this one required me to grab the cage by hand and pull it back far enough to get cog on the chain. It was not easy to keep everything in alignment and I got my finger caught in the works before I got it right.
My hope is that someone who works with these new derailleurs regularly has a technique that makes this operation relatively painless.
Mark
Thanks for your reply. I have the bike in my repair stand.
I’ve worked with several derailleurs over the course of my cycling career, and this one is different. When the wheel is removed, the cage pulls up tight against the body with considerable spring tension holding it there. Whereas the usual procedure is to put the small cog on the chain and pull back until the axle is seated in the dropouts, this one required me to grab the cage by hand and pull it back far enough to get cog on the chain. It was not easy to keep everything in alignment and I got my finger caught in the works before I got it right.
My hope is that someone who works with these new derailleurs regularly has a technique that makes this operation relatively painless.
Mark
Last edited by mpemburn; 10-22-21 at 04:55 AM.
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I haven't noticed any difference with mine, still aggravating to replace the rear wheel and hard to avoid greasy hands. The ones with a clutch may be different.
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I've always found it much easier to replace a wheel OFF the stand. You get a lot more leverage that way. I can swap between my trainer and wheel or vice versa in 15 seconds because they are on the ground.
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3:30 into this video. I use the same method on the stand, off the stand, and bike upside down.
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If your previous bike was 41 years old then it might be a slightly different set of slightly different things you just need to get use to.
And if it's not something you do regularly, then just join the club with the rest of us. I'll never be able to make it look as easy as the mechanics at the LBS make it look.
And if it's not something you do regularly, then just join the club with the rest of us. I'll never be able to make it look as easy as the mechanics at the LBS make it look.
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Thanks very much guys, but I don’t need the basics. I’ve been building and repairing my own bikes since the ‘70s, and no, my previous bike was not that old. It used the 6800 series Ultegra groupset, which is still pretty much up-to-date.
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What's 'useless'? The advice given?
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I found this on another bike repair forum where someone else had the exact same problem:
”Do you have the correct outer cable between frame and rear mech?
It’s a special super flexible outer (OT-RS900 from memory) that the new road shadow rear mechs need.
Without this, wheel installation is trickier, and shifting not optimal.”
I realized that I did, in fact install the wrong cable outer. I had one the right length already, so I use that instead of the one that comes in the box with the derailleur. Did anyone here know that?
”Do you have the correct outer cable between frame and rear mech?
It’s a special super flexible outer (OT-RS900 from memory) that the new road shadow rear mechs need.
Without this, wheel installation is trickier, and shifting not optimal.”
I realized that I did, in fact install the wrong cable outer. I had one the right length already, so I use that instead of the one that comes in the box with the derailleur. Did anyone here know that?
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Yes, the cable spec is mentioned several times in the instructions. https://si.shimano.com/api/publish/s...001-04-ENG.pdf
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If you included a pic, I’m sure someone would have caught that. From your experience level, I guess it was assumed you correctly installed the RD, in the first place.
Tim
Tim
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I'd really be curious how the wrong cable impacts the ease of installation of the wheel into the frame. I can easily see how it will impact shifting performance, but not installation.
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Not cable, it's the housing. The housing that is supplied w/ the derailleur is very flexible, it's basically 4mm brake housing. This is because the last piece of housing it pretty short given how it attaches to the derailleur. Since it's supplied w/ the derailleur I'm sure we all assumed the OP had used it. Not that it's impossible to put a wheel in if you used normal shift housing, it's just a little easier w/ the flexible housing.
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Not cable, it's the housing. The housing that is supplied w/ the derailleur is very flexible, it's basically 4mm brake housing. This is because the last piece of housing it pretty short given how it attaches to the derailleur. Since it's supplied w/ the derailleur I'm sure we all assumed the OP had used it. Not that it's impossible to put a wheel in if you used normal shift housing, it's just a little easier w/ the flexible housing.
1) good to just read random threads there is good stuff to be learned
2) need to think system, not component. the newer level of components you have, the lower the level of flexibiliyt. No more just throw it on, and it will work because you are friction shifting (i.e I changed a rear cog, chain and derailler in rain and hail, in a parking lot for the cino ride in about 15 minutes with 6 speed friction....not happening for me with indexed and i have done a fair number of indexed set ups)
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Not cable, it's the housing. The housing that is supplied w/ the derailleur is very flexible, it's basically 4mm brake housing. This is because the last piece of housing it pretty short given how it attaches to the derailleur. Since it's supplied w/ the derailleur I'm sure we all assumed the OP had used it. Not that it's impossible to put a wheel in if you used normal shift housing, it's just a little easier w/ the flexible housing.
But is there that much difference in how the cable flexes? I know there is a lot of difference in how it compresses. If anything, I'd think the proper housing might be stiffer for flex and make it harder to get the wheel in. However still I'd argue that with any bike that has different components and dropouts, it's more about re-training the person putting in the wheel to hold their mouth correctly and suck in air at the appropriate time as they install the wheel.
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You have to hold your head at the correct angle as well. The housing for these derailleurs is definitely way more flexible. That said I've worked on lots of bikes that don't have it for one reason or another and I've never thought for a second that I might have to change the housing to make it easier to get the wheel back on the bike. Show that bike who's boss and put the damn wheel on.
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Not cable, it's the housing. The housing that is supplied w/ the derailleur is very flexible, it's basically 4mm brake housing. This is because the last piece of housing it pretty short given how it attaches to the derailleur. Since it's supplied w/ the derailleur I'm sure we all assumed the OP had used it. Not that it's impossible to put a wheel in if you used normal shift housing, it's just a little easier w/ the flexible housing.