Shoes for toe clips
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Shoes for toe clips
Hi,
I’m getting my older road bike ready for this spring and it will have pedals with toe clips. Are there any bike shoes that are somewhat suitable for road riding with toe clips? All I’ve ever known are clipless pedals. Well, I used to use toe clips back when I was a kid and rode around in my runners, which isn’t what I’m looking to do here. Thanks.
I’m getting my older road bike ready for this spring and it will have pedals with toe clips. Are there any bike shoes that are somewhat suitable for road riding with toe clips? All I’ve ever known are clipless pedals. Well, I used to use toe clips back when I was a kid and rode around in my runners, which isn’t what I’m looking to do here. Thanks.
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Well, there are slotted cleats that will bolt into your clipless shoes. Be aware that modern bike shoes tend to have a much larger toe box than traditional bike shoes, so you may need to use off-road toeclips for them to fit.
Otherwise there are traditional bike shoes either used, NOS, or new production out there as well.
If you're not planning to use slotted cleats, you could look at some of the bike shoes marketed to modern fixed gear riders from e.g. Vans and such like.
Otherwise there are traditional bike shoes either used, NOS, or new production out there as well.
If you're not planning to use slotted cleats, you could look at some of the bike shoes marketed to modern fixed gear riders from e.g. Vans and such like.
#3
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Van's was a top choice when I shopped for toe clip shoes. Went with heavy, flat sole Fubu. The toe box was indeed too large for the clips and required a little manual adjusting of the clip.
Keeping eyes open for a 1970's style leather cycling shoe (sans cleats).
Keeping eyes open for a 1970's style leather cycling shoe (sans cleats).
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Bowling shoes maybe?
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I've been commuting with toe clips for 26 years. I've been using skateboard style shoes with a firm, flat sole. In my latest pair I put in a firm insole to give it more stiffness. Also, I look for "Vans" or traditional "Converse" style shoes where the sole doesn't stick out wider than the foot, and the "collar" at the heel is low. A stiff upper material works better for me, like leather...and man-made plastic-based uppers have not fared well as both metal and plastic toe clips have cut into the material rather quickly after a few rides. Canvas uppers work well, but leather, or suede uppers work best (although suede will scuff quickly, but holds up well).
The "blockier" the shoe and it's sole, the more difficult it is to slide in and out of the clips. That may be a plus for competitive riding, but not for commuting.
FWIW I keep my toe clips on the loose side of firm, especially in the winter, where blood circulation in the feet is important (so I keep my shoes a little looser then too).
The "blockier" the shoe and it's sole, the more difficult it is to slide in and out of the clips. That may be a plus for competitive riding, but not for commuting.
FWIW I keep my toe clips on the loose side of firm, especially in the winter, where blood circulation in the feet is important (so I keep my shoes a little looser then too).
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I've been using an old pair of Reeboks that are light, have a flat thin sole and leather top. But, I have heard elsewhere on the forum that indoor soccer shoes work well, so I plan on researching that for spring.
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If you're looking for shoes to use with cleats for toe clips, check out Scott Road Pro shoes. Only $59 at Jenson USA, lowest price around at the moment.
Just got a pair a couple of weeks ago. The fit is pretty close to my old Detto Pietros, including the relatively slim toe box. Not quite as slim as the Dettos but closer than some clipless shoes I've seen, with stiffer soles that the old Dettos. I have very narrow feet with long, skinny toes and the shoes are just about perfect for me, depending on whether I layer my socks.
But if you don't plan to install cleats the Scott shoes and most clipless shoes would be a pain in the neck. The soles are so hard and slick you'd have trouble keeping your feet on the pedals. The Detto Pietros had hard leather covered soles and were somewhat usable in toe clips even without cleats. But the only way to keep slick hard plastic soles like most clipless shoes on pedals without cleats would be to get some extra grippy rubbery textured platform pedals. Or modify the soles of the clipless shoes by adding a rubbery grip material -- maybe Plasti-Dip liquid rubber for tool handles, Shoe Goo or other tenacious liquid/adhesive covering.
I've tried makeshift alternatives on pedals intended for toe clips and the results were uncomfortable. Most casual shoes with small enough toe boxes and narrow enough to fit inside toe clips will have soles too thin for those jagged sawtooth pedal edges.
With more practical platform pedals, Power Grips pedal straps might work better. Although I wonder how many people actually use them. I've seen several folks with Power Grips on their pedals, but they rarely actually stick their feet through them. Seems dangerous to ride with big loops ready to snare road debris under the pedal.
Just got a pair a couple of weeks ago. The fit is pretty close to my old Detto Pietros, including the relatively slim toe box. Not quite as slim as the Dettos but closer than some clipless shoes I've seen, with stiffer soles that the old Dettos. I have very narrow feet with long, skinny toes and the shoes are just about perfect for me, depending on whether I layer my socks.
But if you don't plan to install cleats the Scott shoes and most clipless shoes would be a pain in the neck. The soles are so hard and slick you'd have trouble keeping your feet on the pedals. The Detto Pietros had hard leather covered soles and were somewhat usable in toe clips even without cleats. But the only way to keep slick hard plastic soles like most clipless shoes on pedals without cleats would be to get some extra grippy rubbery textured platform pedals. Or modify the soles of the clipless shoes by adding a rubbery grip material -- maybe Plasti-Dip liquid rubber for tool handles, Shoe Goo or other tenacious liquid/adhesive covering.
I've tried makeshift alternatives on pedals intended for toe clips and the results were uncomfortable. Most casual shoes with small enough toe boxes and narrow enough to fit inside toe clips will have soles too thin for those jagged sawtooth pedal edges.
With more practical platform pedals, Power Grips pedal straps might work better. Although I wonder how many people actually use them. I've seen several folks with Power Grips on their pedals, but they rarely actually stick their feet through them. Seems dangerous to ride with big loops ready to snare road debris under the pedal.
#8
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REW Reynolds in UK still hand makes old style leather touring shoes..for toe clip pedals,, https://reynolds-england.com/
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been getting a lot of use out of these Lake Cycling 2015 Men's MX100 Mountain Bike Shoes (Black/Grey - size 48) these work great for my size 13 foot
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They used to make shoes for toe clip pedals back in the 1980s. I still have mine - they're Specialized. These shoes are very comfortable and I will still use them when I ride with toe clips. Here is what makes them work so well and what you should look for in a shoe that you want to wear using toe clips:
Pointy toe - lets shoe slip into the clips easier.
Flat sole - treads get caught in the pedal.
Leather tops - it protects your toes which will hurt after a short ride if there is no protection.
You can probably find a cheap pair of shoes with these characteristics.
Pointy toe - lets shoe slip into the clips easier.
Flat sole - treads get caught in the pedal.
Leather tops - it protects your toes which will hurt after a short ride if there is no protection.
You can probably find a cheap pair of shoes with these characteristics.
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I use Nike Air Mavin low 2's. Not the best for power transfer because of the padding, but I solved that with a custom wood sole I made with a hinge for walkability. I have smaller feet, but the tip is rounded, the top is padded, and it doesn't look to dorky. It is a basketball shoe, so there is a little bit that sticks out. For me, I can pull the strap behind that and it "locks" into place, so that could be a pro or a con depending on what you like. It comes in all black.
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Oxfords, not brogues.
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Canklecat,
Thanks for the link. I am still riding my Detto's 30-plus years after purchase. They're starting to show their age. I was wondering what I was gonna' get to replace them. Now I know. Thanks.
Jon
Thanks for the link. I am still riding my Detto's 30-plus years after purchase. They're starting to show their age. I was wondering what I was gonna' get to replace them. Now I know. Thanks.
Jon
#14
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I'm still using my Specialized 'touring shoes' from the late '80s... They look like these:
Stiff thin soles, leather uppers where the tow clip/straps would interface, nylon otherwise.
I had Bata Bikers before those, bought in the '70s...
.
Stiff thin soles, leather uppers where the tow clip/straps would interface, nylon otherwise.
I had Bata Bikers before those, bought in the '70s...
.
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Your best bet is to try to find some 70-80's vintage ones on ebay. But if you wear a common size like 45 they're few and far between. If you have tiny feet or you're a bigfoot there's usually a lot of them for sale.
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I got these Louis Garneau Nickels at Nashbar for $39 on sale. They are very walkable off the bike, the toe box (Euro 47, US 11) is a little tight in the clips, so I use Velo Orange Half Clips which are a little taller, and don't have the straps to deal with. I only use the clips since Eroica demands them. The rest of the time I use Shimano MTB SPDs, and these shoes work great either way. They also supply black laces if the day-glo bling is too much. I also have Vittoria 1976, which look cool, accept vintage style, but plastic, traditional cleats, but aren't much good for walking, and cost a lot more.
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I use Lake shoes with their 3-bolt cleat system, Exustar aluminum track cleats (the $20 simple ones, not the $70 ones for velodrome sprinters), Shimano 600 semi-platform pedals and their plastic toeclips for all my fix gears. The shoes and cleats are available. Really high quality cleats. We would have died for a cleat and mounting system that good 40 years ago.
Keep in mind - I ride this system to be locked in more securely than with clipless, NOT so I can have good walking shoes. My setup is for serious rides and is as good as it comes for power transmission and ability to pull up on the pedals to go up step hills in very big gears. My knees cannot tolerate "float" so the slotted cleats give me exactly the degree of freedom my knees need. And, just as important, my feet stay on the pedals at RPMs over 200. Always. Even if I uncleat (which only happens if my cleats are worn, my straps are tired or I forgot to pull them tight. (Don't believe the 200 PRM? That's 40 mph riding 42-17, my usual gear. Car drivers have told me I've been going downhill faster.)
I don't know how big the OP's feet are. I have no issues with modern shoes and old-fashioned large (for a snug fit) of extra large Christophe toeclips. My feet are 43/US 10.
Ben
Keep in mind - I ride this system to be locked in more securely than with clipless, NOT so I can have good walking shoes. My setup is for serious rides and is as good as it comes for power transmission and ability to pull up on the pedals to go up step hills in very big gears. My knees cannot tolerate "float" so the slotted cleats give me exactly the degree of freedom my knees need. And, just as important, my feet stay on the pedals at RPMs over 200. Always. Even if I uncleat (which only happens if my cleats are worn, my straps are tired or I forgot to pull them tight. (Don't believe the 200 PRM? That's 40 mph riding 42-17, my usual gear. Car drivers have told me I've been going downhill faster.)
I don't know how big the OP's feet are. I have no issues with modern shoes and old-fashioned large (for a snug fit) of extra large Christophe toeclips. My feet are 43/US 10.
Ben
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I've had zero difficulty using modern Shimano MTB shoes with traditional cage pedals with toe clips and straps. I cannot imagine street cyclist using cleats with toe clips and straps. Track cyclists have someone to catch them after a sprint! I also ride a vintage Raleigh from the 80's and untightened toe straps (with clips) does not prevent a wide variety of footwear from being used.
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You could buy a pair of new Detto Pietros. 180€, or $225 or so.
Detto Shoes - Detto - Detto Pietro Store
Detto Shoes - Detto - Detto Pietro Store
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I was using Puma Speedcats. Very comfortable, and Academy sometimes has them discounted. Got mine for 30 bucks, but now I use them for fencing. Found a pair in a discount store (Ross)for 20 bucks that are just fine. Not familia with the name Perry Ellis, but they look well made.
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In doing some searching online for just such shoes I discovered a Belgian brand called Cycleur de Luxe. Anyone have any experience with these? They come in alotta different styles and look pretty nice, so I picked up a used pair on eBay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CYCLEUR-DE-...3/152911381678
When they arrived I was happy to find they fit perfectly! I can't wait till the weather is warm again so I can put the clips and straps back on my pedals and try these shoes out.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CYCLEUR-DE-...3/152911381678
When they arrived I was happy to find they fit perfectly! I can't wait till the weather is warm again so I can put the clips and straps back on my pedals and try these shoes out.
#24
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REW Reynolds in UK still hand makes old style leather touring shoes..for toe clip pedals,, https://reynolds-england.com/
Have to check with the bank tomorrow about a second mortgage.
#25
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I've had zero difficulty using modern Shimano MTB shoes with traditional cage pedals with toe clips and straps. I cannot imagine street cyclist using cleats with toe clips and straps. Track cyclists have someone to catch them after a sprint! I also ride a vintage Raleigh from the 80's and untightened toe straps (with clips) does not prevent a wide variety of footwear from being used.