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thin wrench for hubs

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thin wrench for hubs

Old 07-02-22, 06:34 AM
  #26  
sweeks
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Since the lock nut is on the end, you don't need a thin wrench. (with the wheel removed).
This ^^.
Here's a possible exception. Nexus hubs have a 17mm nut on the non-drive side, which is amenable to a normal ("thick") wrench especially with the wheel out of the frame. However, with a roller brake module in place, and the wheel in the frame, only a cone wrench will fit. The nut has to be tightened *after* the brake module's torque link is attached to the chainstay, which has to be done after the wheel is positioned for proper chain tension. I suppose the nut could be left a bit loose, as it's not actually locking the NDS cone, but I like it to be tight. A 17mm Park wrench is ideal for this.
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Old 07-02-22, 12:48 PM
  #27  
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look at my post #9. on my wheel you need a thin wrench to hold the bottom nut in place so you can loosen the top nut. It will spin freely other wise.


kind of like this

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Old 07-02-22, 01:49 PM
  #28  
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The pair of Park wrenches were really soft. I can't recommend them. I found some in a garage sale that are chrome, hard enough not to deform like the Park tools.
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Old 07-02-22, 04:20 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by sean.hwy View Post
look at my post #9. on my wheel you need a thin wrench to hold the bottom nut in place so you can loosen the top nut. It will spin freely other wise.


kind of like this

That's an example of what was mentioned earlier in the thread - while a cone wrench is needed for the cone, a box wrench, or even an adjustable wrench, would work fine for the lock nut.
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Old 07-03-22, 07:36 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Since the lock nut is on the end, you don't need a thin wrench. (with the wheel removed).
But not always:
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Old 07-03-22, 09:37 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by sean.hwy View Post
look at my post #9. on my wheel you need a thin wrench to hold the bottom nut in place so you can loosen the top nut. It will spin freely other wise.


kind of like this

Which would be MUCH better served with a standard 17mm box wrench.
Less likely to slip off.
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Old 07-03-22, 09:40 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
But not always:
Which was kind of covered in post #12, but with this many posts over a simple cone wrench, who pays attention to what was already posted?
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Old 07-03-22, 09:47 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
Which was kind of covered in post #12, but with this many posts over a simple cone wrench, who pays attention to what was already posted?
Post #12 addressed thin wrenches for cones, not locknuts.
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Old 07-03-22, 10:35 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JohnDThompson View Post
Post #12 addressed thin wrenches for cones, not locknuts.
So you know what I was thinking and I don't?
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Old 07-04-22, 02:11 AM
  #35  
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Every day I browse the mechanics sub and am always amazed that this thread, which has long since solved the OPs issue, continues to gain new posts. When ever will it die?

Based on other comments, it seems likely that the OP knows when they can use a standard wrench. Id guess they also have some thoughts about the use of adjustable hammers, AKA adjustable wrenches.
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Old 07-04-22, 01:42 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by SJX426 View Post
The pair of Park wrenches were really soft.
I've used a 15mm Park cone wrench as a pedal wrench for the couplers on my MKS detachable pedals many times. There is no distortion.
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Old 07-05-22, 06:38 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Bill Kapaun View Post
So you know what I was thinking and I don't?
No, I only know what you wrote. And in post #12, all you wrote about locknuts is that "most (it seems) lock nuts are 17mm. Since the lock nut is on the end, you don't need a thin wrench. (with the wheel removed)." The Campagnolo Record hubs I referenced above use a 14mm cone wrench for both the cone and the locknut. The flats on the locknut are too narrow to accept anything else. Other high-end hubs are similar.
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