Changing inner tube on road bike without run out?
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Changing inner tube on road bike without run out?
My inner tubes came today. My hats off to you guys than can change a tire on the side of the road in less than 10 minutes.
Tire/inner tube on/off. was easy. getting it even so one side is not higher than one side I still have not accomplished after about an hour.
Never had this issue changing bmx, mountain bike and car tires. These semi deep rims and tiny little 23mm are going to be the death of me.
Rims
Fulcrum Racing 400 DB, Alloy clincher, 35mm deep
Tires
Vittoria Rubino Pro Speed, 700 x 26mm (23c)
What is the trick to making the tire center? I must have let the air out of tire 10 times, then tried to seat the tire even all the way around.
Tire/inner tube on/off. was easy. getting it even so one side is not higher than one side I still have not accomplished after about an hour.
Never had this issue changing bmx, mountain bike and car tires. These semi deep rims and tiny little 23mm are going to be the death of me.
Rims
Fulcrum Racing 400 DB, Alloy clincher, 35mm deep
Tires
Vittoria Rubino Pro Speed, 700 x 26mm (23c)
What is the trick to making the tire center? I must have let the air out of tire 10 times, then tried to seat the tire even all the way around.
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First off don’t take the tire completely off the rim, no need. I first pump some air into the replacement tube so you know which tube is the good one. Use the tire levers to pop the bead on one side only, remove bad tube, remove full fingered gloves if wearing them and run fingers along the inside of the tire to try to find anything that penetrated and is still in the tire. Then visually inspect the outside of the tire to make sure there’s no glass of penetrating object.
Put enough air in tube so it’ll have some form when placing onto the rim. Push tube up and under tire, re-seat the bead of the tire. Push valve stem up and into and then down so the bead of the stem seats. Install valve nut. Pry back the tire on both sides along the entire wheel so you can inspect that the tube is not between the rim and the bead. Inflate. Tighten valve nut by hand.
Put enough air in tube so it’ll have some form when placing onto the rim. Push tube up and under tire, re-seat the bead of the tire. Push valve stem up and into and then down so the bead of the stem seats. Install valve nut. Pry back the tire on both sides along the entire wheel so you can inspect that the tube is not between the rim and the bead. Inflate. Tighten valve nut by hand.
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The skinnier the tire the finer the install needs to be WRT tube/bead problems. (Tire width question here...) Tricks like having the tube valve's freely open during the last bit of tire bear roll over during install can help. Gathering up the tire bead's slack by pushing the partially installed bead into the rim's center (hopefully of smaller diameter then the bead seat ledge of the rim) making that last bit of bead easier to get over the rim. Working the tire casing side to side so you can see between the bead and the rim, in case the tube is trapped between. Pushing the valve stem part way back into the rim/tire to make sure that the tube's thicker part, around the valve base, is fully up between both beads and not tight against the rim. Then inflate bit by bit watching the casing bead seat rib on both sides, confirming a good seat. Andy
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Some combinations are serious pains in the ass, used to hate Matrix rims with certain vittoria tires and just dealt with some Michelin 26x1.1 tires on velocity that after snapping some tire levers trying to get the tire onto the rim I just resorted to the careful use of a screwdriver, there's really no good reason for a tire to be that tight and it had the same problem you're having. Typically if the tire is about 30psi its possible to push in the highest point and pull out moving around the rim till its all even. A couple tires I only accomplished by inflating to about 140psi and putting on hearing protection just in case. There's also a tool for this purpose that I don't own but we used in the shop that grabs the tire and helps you to pull it out. There were a couple of special cases over the years where I needed bike polish and the tool to accomplish the job and those rare combos just sucked.
Last edited by cb400bill; 03-31-20 at 01:16 PM. Reason: you can say ass
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the valve stem is 52mm. The whole tire has to come off.
So I go check it five hours latter and it's 99% corrected itself. When I first changed it was obvious when you spun the wheel you could see a high spot. Now I can't see a high spot at all when I spin the wheel. When I look at the side walls the line is now 99% even all the way around.
That line right above my rim was not even when I first put my tires. I let the air several times.Tried to re-seat/center the tire. pump it back up etc.. rinse/repeat for like an 40/50 minutes. Now it looks 99% fine. I will look at again tomorrow in broad day light.
So I go check it five hours latter and it's 99% corrected itself. When I first changed it was obvious when you spun the wheel you could see a high spot. Now I can't see a high spot at all when I spin the wheel. When I look at the side walls the line is now 99% even all the way around.
That line right above my rim was not even when I first put my tires. I let the air several times.Tried to re-seat/center the tire. pump it back up etc.. rinse/repeat for like an 40/50 minutes. Now it looks 99% fine. I will look at again tomorrow in broad day light.
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Sometimes adding a liquid soap/water mix to the tire beads will help a lot for the tire to seat fully and properly.
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Tire talc works sometimes too. Rated pressure usually does it for me. Hearing protection is a great idea--some pump gauges are off.
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Some combinations are serious pains in the a$$, used to hate Matrix rims with certain vittoria tires and just dealt with some Michelin 26x1.1 tires on velocity that after snapping some tire levers trying to get the tire onto the rim I just resorted to the careful use of a screwdriver, there's really no good reason for a tire to be that tight and it had the same problem you're having. Typically if the tire is about 30psi its possible to push in the highest point and pull out moving around the rim till its all even. A couple tires I only accomplished by inflating to about 140psi and putting on hearing protection just in case. There's also a tool for this purpose that I don't own but we used in the shop that grabs the tire and helps you to pull it out. There were a couple of special cases over the years where I needed bike polish and the tool to accomplish the job and those rare combos just sucked.
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#9
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Just because the stem is 52mm does not mean the tire has to come off. Unseat one side and push the tire away from the stem, so you can push it out.
Using 50 psi was a mistake. Inflate to normal pressure, NOT 140. Many carbon rims have lower maximum pressure ratings.
Applying a little soapy water to the tire bead can't hurt. I've never had to do that in 30 years of changing tires, but I never had carbon rims either.
Using 50 psi was a mistake. Inflate to normal pressure, NOT 140. Many carbon rims have lower maximum pressure ratings.
Applying a little soapy water to the tire bead can't hurt. I've never had to do that in 30 years of changing tires, but I never had carbon rims either.
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I used to routinely change road bike inner tubes without using tire levers either for off or back on. Open Pro rims and Continental Armadillo tires using a CO2 cartridge I'd do the whole job in under 5 minutes, no problem.
NO WAY could I do that today. I don't know if rim extrusions have changed or tires have been made a little bit tighter or maybe I've just grown more feeble. I certainly have less practice than I used to.
NO WAY could I do that today. I don't know if rim extrusions have changed or tires have been made a little bit tighter or maybe I've just grown more feeble. I certainly have less practice than I used to.
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First, work your way around the rim pushing the sidewall of the tire towards the centre of the rim to ensure the tube is not trapped between the tire and the rim sidewall at any point.
Next, inflate to some non-zero amount of pressure, like 10 20 psi. Then give the wheel a spin to ensure the tire is generally seated and not trying to climb off the rim sidewall at any point.
Finally, inflate the tire to its max pressure and give the wheel another spin. If there are any points where the tire seems further down below the rim sidewall, add some more pressure - another 10 or 20 psi, and this should pop the bead into place.
Next, inflate to some non-zero amount of pressure, like 10 20 psi. Then give the wheel a spin to ensure the tire is generally seated and not trying to climb off the rim sidewall at any point.
Finally, inflate the tire to its max pressure and give the wheel another spin. If there are any points where the tire seems further down below the rim sidewall, add some more pressure - another 10 or 20 psi, and this should pop the bead into place.
#12
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I have read a guideline about ways to change a bike inner tube. To start, put the bike upside down and take the bike wheel off it and release the air pressure of the inner tube. Remove the dust cap from the valve body, then remove the lanyard, hooking part of the tire lever around the nearest spoke. Move the tire lever around the entire tire until the tube is completely out of the bicycle tire. Gradually retract the inner tube after pushing the valve back through its hole. Check for the cause of the puncture and install a new tube on your bike. Remove the threaded neck and slide the inner spool valve into the rim. Starting on the opposite side of the valve, begin to squeeze the tire over the rim with your thumb.
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Tubes with 52 mm valve stems seem a little short for 35 mm deep wheels; I use the same (which are slightly long) on 25 mm deep wheels.
Regardless of rim height and valve stem length only one bead has to come off the wheel to install a tube.
It is OK to initially inflate to only about 50 psi to check how things look. Thereafter, as andrewclaus and DaveSSS said, inflating to maximum rated pressure (>> tire pressure for actual riding) should be sufficient to properly seat tire beads, especially if done at least twice, i.e., inflate to maximum rated pressure, gently bounce the tire and wheel on the ground all around, let out some air, and inflate to maximum rated pressure again.
Regardless of rim height and valve stem length only one bead has to come off the wheel to install a tube.
It is OK to initially inflate to only about 50 psi to check how things look. Thereafter, as andrewclaus and DaveSSS said, inflating to maximum rated pressure (>> tire pressure for actual riding) should be sufficient to properly seat tire beads, especially if done at least twice, i.e., inflate to maximum rated pressure, gently bounce the tire and wheel on the ground all around, let out some air, and inflate to maximum rated pressure again.
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I have long switched to gp 5000s. not sure if I was just having a bad day or what but I have never had the problem again on this rim or my other 20 rims. Between the gf's bikes, my bikes and the extra wheel sets plus all my noob friends I have change an f-ton of tires/tubes.
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I've had this problem with Michelin Pro4 Endurance tires on Fulcrum Racing 6 wheels. I eventually found that pumping up good and hard - about 100 psi - sorted it. When I've had to change tubes on the road side my little portable pump can only get about 60 psi in, which left the ride feeling a little lumpy. However, on a longer ride recently, I found that it had sorted itself by the time I got home. So for others who are having this issue I'd say don't sweat it.
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cannot say this enough - using the center well of the rim to give the bead a little more slack is critical
as is thinner rim tape. Like "tire levers" the world has moved on from cotton tressostar
If you don't have confidence that you can repair a tire in the field you prolly should not go on a long ride with that combination
Tighter fit to accomodate "tubeless" is the root cause
/markp
as is thinner rim tape. Like "tire levers" the world has moved on from cotton tressostar
If you don't have confidence that you can repair a tire in the field you prolly should not go on a long ride with that combination
Tighter fit to accomodate "tubeless" is the root cause
/markp
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To start, put the bike upside down and take the bike wheel off it and release the air pressure of the inner tube.
Remove the dust cap from the valve body,
then remove the lanyard, hooking part of the tire lever around the nearest spoke.
Remove the threaded neck and
slide the inner spool valve into the rim.
Starting on the opposite side of the valve,
Remove the dust cap from the valve body,
then remove the lanyard, hooking part of the tire lever around the nearest spoke.
Remove the threaded neck and
slide the inner spool valve into the rim.
Starting on the opposite side of the valve,
1. Do not put the bike upside down.
2. Do not use valve dust caps.
3. Lanyard?
4. Threaded neck?
5. Inner spool valve?
6. Start at the valve, finish opposite the valve.