Is this safe for 100 miler?
#1
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Is this safe for 100 miler?
Hi all. I am brand new to Bike Forums so hope this is the right place. I just restored an old '80s Fuji Palisade and am planning on biking (my first) century very soon. I am hoping to do it on this bike, but I'm not sure if this is safe (see photo). If the wheel is placed all the way in, then it is no longer lined up with the frame. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Sorry if there is no photo, I am struggling to attach it. The rear tire axle does not fit all the way into the groove on the frame. Instead, one end is at the edge of the groove. I've screwed in the axle exceedingly tight and it does not appear to be going anywhere, but I want to make sure it is okay. It doesn't appear right that the axle is not all the way inside the groove.
Sorry if there is no photo, I am struggling to attach it. The rear tire axle does not fit all the way into the groove on the frame. Instead, one end is at the edge of the groove. I've screwed in the axle exceedingly tight and it does not appear to be going anywhere, but I want to make sure it is okay. It doesn't appear right that the axle is not all the way inside the groove.
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maybe 99.5 miles.
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You might check out this topic of wheel alignment in bike mechanics. If you're not comfortable with the way it's set, you could try using a rat tail file on the opposite side to move eveything back in a little tighter while keeping it aligned. You want to go easy though, because that metal is really soft and it won't take but a couple of smooth strokes. Still, I would go. I have an old vintage giant that I put on more than 100 a week without issue. Good luck to ya,
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If you are truly interested in this forum and all it has to offer then go around and post in different threads, look around at the different sub forums. Forget about post numbers if you enjoy bikes and talking about them and sometimes arguing about them you will quickly get more than enough posts. This is a fun place but it only works if you stick around. Nobody cares about your question if you aren't really invested in the forums at least a little.
Heck I can get 10 posts in one sitting without having to post 1 2 3...Shoot there are some threads that get started that you could spend a long time in going back in forth about bikes or tools or other related stuff.
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As @alo suggests, post a comment in a few other threads .... there are two dozen topics and thousands of threads
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Jeez, some people need to take a chill pill! He/she could be a ten year old kid trying to learn about computers, bikes, and life and you guys are just....Well, I guess you guys are working on the life part.
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That's OK, but are you working the quick release right?
Adjust the quick release screw with the lever open, and then close the lever tight enough that it makes a dent in your palm. Adjust the nut opposite the lever as needed to get this amount of tension.
Adjust the quick release screw with the lever open, and then close the lever tight enough that it makes a dent in your palm. Adjust the nut opposite the lever as needed to get this amount of tension.
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Hi all. I am brand new to Bike Forums so hope this is the right place. I just restored an old '80s Fuji Palisade and am planning on biking (my first) century very soon. I am hoping to do it on this bike, but I'm not sure if this is safe (see photo). If the wheel is placed all the way in, then it is no longer lined up with the frame. Any advice is greatly appreciated!
Sorry if there is no photo, I am struggling to attach it. The rear tire axle does not fit all the way into the groove on the frame. Instead, one end is at the edge of the groove. I've screwed in the axle exceedingly tight and it does not appear to be going anywhere, but I want to make sure it is okay. It doesn't appear right that the axle is not all the way inside the groove.
Sorry if there is no photo, I am struggling to attach it. The rear tire axle does not fit all the way into the groove on the frame. Instead, one end is at the edge of the groove. I've screwed in the axle exceedingly tight and it does not appear to be going anywhere, but I want to make sure it is okay. It doesn't appear right that the axle is not all the way inside the groove.
This is likely to be caused by the frame slightly out of alignment, or the hub off center. It could also be that what you call the 'groove on the frame' is longer one side than the other.
Line it up so the wheel is in the center and ride it.
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Look at the rear dropout, fellows! It appears that someone has gouged the dropout, creating a cratered part into which the quick release lever head will sit. As though to accommodate too short of a rear skewer or something. Yikes! Would not ride, would not keep. Take to a skilled welder and have him build that back up, grind and polish the flat to match the opening on the other side. It'll ruin the paint, but save the frame.
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That's not safe at all.
You might be able to bandaid it with a nutted axle and a big washer but that bike/dropout is done
You might be able to bandaid it with a nutted axle and a big washer but that bike/dropout is done
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Get a new bike .... even if it is a new old bike. That frame looks unsafe.
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I would use your other bike for your upcoming century.
John
John
#18
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This passes the safety test. The quick release was at some point loose enough to slip and just scraped some paint. There is no gouging of metal that’ll need welding up. To the poster, slide the right side of the axle back against the axle stop and hold that with one hand and then just center the wheel in the frame and close the quick release lever. It should start to feel snug at about 50 percent closed.
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Did you look at that photo full-screen? To me the gouging of metal looks clear.
In any case ... to the OP .... if it is indeed just paint scraped off, ride on and enjoy. if it is indeed that the edges of the dropout are beveled .... well, if you don't post again we will know what happened.
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Look at the rear dropout, fellows! It appears that someone has gouged the dropout, creating a cratered part into which the quick release lever head will sit. As though to accommodate too short of a rear skewer or something. Yikes! Would not ride, would not keep. Take to a skilled welder and have him build that back up, grind and polish the flat to match the opening on the other side. It'll ruin the paint, but save the frame.
Sorry, I don't see anything worse than paint damage to the dropout face. That's a forged steel dropout, about 7mm thick across the faces. It's not going to fail in anybody here's lifetime.
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I'm seeing depth and shadow, and not the marks of a quick release or wheel nut clamping, but of someone using a rotary tool to grind inward, creating a cratering effect. Note the texture, which, to my eye, looks like the rough scarring that a small rotary bit makes when one is an amateur grinder. I've done quite a bit of grinding and milling, and have fixed some boogered-up bubba work, and this looks like it to me. It has depth. At least to me.
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We have a requirement of 10 meaningful posts before you can post a link or a picture. That's to combat spammers, sorry. Respond in some other threads or other subforms and before you know it you will reach your 10 posts. Also, only 5 new posts per day until you reach your 10.
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I'm in the "don't ride that around the block" camp. Someone butchered that dropout.
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I'm seeing depth and shadow, and not the marks of a quick release or wheel nut clamping, but of someone using a rotary tool to grind inward, creating a cratering effect. Note the texture, which, to my eye, looks like the rough scarring that a small rotary bit makes when one is an amateur grinder. I've done quite a bit of grinding and milling, and have fixed some boogered-up bubba work, and this looks like it to me. It has depth. At least to me.
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That dropout is messed up.