n2t

First ride in, only 4 miles but it handled a lot better. On the downhill I used to ride my brakes on, I was able to peddle down for more speed with confidence. It's just a dirt road, but I think I may have gotten the right tool for the job now. It's not as fast top end on blacktop, but that's not what I'm looking for or most of my riding. Perhaps I made the right choice. I bet the 7 would be outstanding as well. I bet every step up, you think the next step up is better...I'm probably going to ride this for a LONG time..

Kapusta

Yes, you did. You can always spend more and get a better bike. If you bought the $1800 one you’d might be wondering if the $2400 one would have been even better.

Enjoy what you got, you did fine for the money, and it is designed for what you want to do.

katsup

What I was trying to get at is that the Roscoe 6 is a fine bike, but it is a beginner bike with outdated geometry and specs (rear non boost). With the Roscoe 7, you have the same frame as the 9 so it's worth upgrading.

In any case, enjoy your bike, I do like the color.

n2t

I'm aware, it uses an older frame design not shared by the levels above it, a has ten gears instead of 12, a Suntour instead of Rockshocks and 27.5" wheels instead of 29". But I'm just starting so a lot of that won't translate for me. Maybe I stick to the trails I know and my back yard and never advance to a harder riding style. In that case, this bike probably lasts me for a LONG time. At 43, I'm not sure I'm going to decide to go all out on jumps and technical trails. But I did spend most of my time off pavement, so the Verve was showing it's limits. Figure, worst case, I pick up a used Roscoe 7 or higher in five years for half the price. Or maybe I lean what I like and become a bit more educated with time on the bike. I'm not good enough to know outdated geometry from cutting edge, no idea what boost even is. So I figured right now, having a bike that works where I ride and racking up miles is a good place to start.

PeteHski

I think you made the right choice here. You now have a reasonable budget hardtail mtb at least capable of riding these kind of trails. The rest is mostly down to the rider. BTW being 43 is not really much of a handicap in itself. There are world class competitive riders of that age group! Just ride and work on developing your technique and fitness. That's where the big gains will come from. Then maybe consider a further bike or fork upgrade along the way.

Milton Keynes

Well, obviously you need two bikes. A road bike for riding pavement, and a wider tire bike for gravel & trails. At least two bikes...

freeranger

Nice bike for your use, and don't worry about your age. I'm still riding trails with rocks, roots, and stream crossings. No jumps or drops, but at 71 y.o. on a "98 (frame-rest upgraded) mtn.bike, don't think most would expect me to ride that now! I've met several just a few years younger riding modern, full susp. bikes, so you should have plenty of time to accumulate off-road skills and decide if or what you may eventually want to upgrade. Have a blast with the new bike!

biker128pedal

If you do more road riding or smooth rail trails just max the tire pressure or try a narrower tire. And rougher terrain lower the air pressure. Those wide tires will smooth it out. Get a good tire pressure gauge and pump. Bet you could run down to 25 psi rear and 20 psi front.

s

70sSanO

The geometry is really in what and how you ride. 10 years ago 29ers were still around 70* head angle. The modern mid-60* head angle gives you more speed and an in the bike feel than a steeper on the bike.

The downside of a slacker head angle happens on flat road/trail riding. Your 27.5 with a 67* will be better on flat trail and road riding while not maxing out riding performance more technical mtb trails.

Probably good at more stuff but not great at any one thing. For a beginner that “might” be a better choice. The downside “might” be a little tougher to ride technical stuff at speed.

I’d just ride it and have fun.

John

n2t

I'm not experienced enough to notice geometry to that amount. Which is why I didn't need the next level up. Maybe someday, but by then I can get the old geometry that's good now cheap.

biker128pedal

Sorry I think I was unclear. N+1 rule. Upgrade to a better bike.

n2t

No, I think I'm good until I learn what I want in a bike. Silly to upgrade before I know enough about the item to be able to actually tell a difference. Going from a 400 dollar bikes direct bike to this is night and day. I'm going to enjoy it, then when other people upgrade to a better bike, pick up a used one in my size for a decent price. Three, four years, I will probably be able to find a used Roscoe 7. By then, maybe I know what I'm looking for.

big john

With similar tires I run 15psi in front and 17-20 rear unless I ride pavement, then I might raise the rear up to 25. I'm 200 pounds and have ridden through lots of sharp rocks with 15 in the front.
2.8 tires are great in loose rocks and on slippery hard pack.
With these tires a few psi makes a difference. Definitely get a low pressure gauge.

big john

Boost refers to the spacing of the rear axle. If you take the wheel out of the frame and measure across the gap where the wheel was, it would be 148mm.

When through axles came out the standard was 142mm. Then came boost @ 148 which gives more room for gears and discs plus allows a stronger wheel because of the spoke angle. There is also "super boost" @ 157mm. This is mostly used on downhill bikes but a few enduro type bikes come with it. This uses a different crank because of the chainline.

I think boost on the front is 110mm.

CliffordK

I don't do a lot of MTB riding, but one thing one learns with climbing on slippery surfaces with my road bike is to keep one's seat firmly planted on the saddle. Keep the weight on the rear wheel for traction. Shift down enough that one keeps the cranks spinning smoothly rather than standing on the pedals with the weight forward (off of the rear wheel), and with more jerky movements that can break the wheel loose.

Likely with your hybrid you just ran out of gears to do the tough climbs.

n2t

Ran out of gears, not the right tires, and I'm not sure it was the right tool considering how little pavement was in my life. I feel a LOT more in control of the bike now, even on just dirt roads. I don't have to ride the brakes and can peddle through most spots, I'm not slidiing out on corners. And climbing is a LOT easier. Seems like the right bike for my needs. Where the hybrid was lacking in some situations. Maybe better tires and more skill would have fixed it. But I was considering taking out the 400 dollar bike over the 800 dollar bike and that wasn't confidence inspiring. Now the 400 dollar bike is up for sale because I always grab the Roscoe.

biker128pedal

I run tubes and have pinch flatted the read running 20 psi. Could be my extra 10 pounds.

big john

Running 2.8s? I run tubes and 2.8 tires on 35mm internal width rims. Of course at my age (68) I don't jump but I have slammed into rocks and square edges. I found 20 psi in the front to be chattery on washboard stuff. I have the low end Fox 36, might be a little more plush with an update.