Schwalbe Pro One tubeless
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Schwalbe Pro One tubeless
Hey everyone,
Just started running Schwalbe pro one tubeless 700x28 on my Tarmac. Any recommendations on what kit to carry? spare tube? dynaplug racer, stans dart tool? No spare tube?
Just started running Schwalbe pro one tubeless 700x28 on my Tarmac. Any recommendations on what kit to carry? spare tube? dynaplug racer, stans dart tool? No spare tube?
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I don't carry tubes, but I do carry Dynaplug. If you are going to carry a tube, how easy is it for you to get the tire off? Have you tried it?
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Thanks for the reply!
Just got the bike few days ago, Have not had to remove tires yet. I like the idea of not having to carry an extra tube. trying to decide between dynaplug and stans dart for my kit. Seems like a disaster trying to change a tube on the road with sealant spraying everywhere.
Just got the bike few days ago, Have not had to remove tires yet. I like the idea of not having to carry an extra tube. trying to decide between dynaplug and stans dart for my kit. Seems like a disaster trying to change a tube on the road with sealant spraying everywhere.
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I had Stan's Alpha wheels and those tires. Perfect fit and it would have been easy to put a tube in without levers.
Not that I ever had to, I did top them up once after a pretty big cut, but it did seal and I rode it a long time after that.
It's the only road tubeless tire that is supple enough and light enough to justify the switch from tubes. Imo.
Not that I ever had to, I did top them up once after a pretty big cut, but it did seal and I rode it a long time after that.
It's the only road tubeless tire that is supple enough and light enough to justify the switch from tubes. Imo.
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I carry tubes with my tubeless setup. Have used them twice, and other than a little puddle of sealant, they weren't much more hassle than a normal flat. FWIW, for those two times, sealant has saved my ride twice, getting me home (30 miles out in one case) without needing to do a repair. Combined with lower rolling resistance, I'm pretty sold on the technology.
BB
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Tube.
Method of filling tube. (CO2, pump, or both.)
Tire lever(s).
Tire boot(s).
Optional: plug kit.
Optional: small rag for cleaning up the sealant when inserting tube.
Method of filling tube. (CO2, pump, or both.)
Tire lever(s).
Tire boot(s).
Optional: plug kit.
Optional: small rag for cleaning up the sealant when inserting tube.
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Always carry a tube or be within range of someone you can call to pick you up if the sealant and plugs fail. Sealant doesn't spray out when the tire is flat. You just unseat the bead and pour any remaining sealant out on the ground before installing your tube. Yes, it will be a bit wet with sealant and it takes longer than changing a tube on a clincher, but it happens very rarely.
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#8
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I have the same tires in 30mm. I carry both a tube and DynaPlug. Never used the tube so far, my prior back tire had three DynaPlugs in it when it finally wore out. My current rear tire has one, they work fine and seem to stay put, I’d call them a permanent fix as long as they are a tight fit in the hole. The Stans dart is intriguing, but I don't have any experience with them. I do know some people have had problems with bacon strips working their way out of a tire that the dart might solve.
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I carry the following:
Tube
Leavers
CO2
Strips of bacon
Hope that helps. Cheers.
Tube
Leavers
CO2
Strips of bacon
Hope that helps. Cheers.
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I will most likely carry a tube and dynaplug pill. My tubeless schwalbe are 28mm. I was told you can run a smaller tube 23-25mm and would work? lighter and not as bulky?
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i would switch to the regular pro one with a tube , there is no way those tires will hold up , maybe you will have better results with the newer version with that extra layered of what ever , but as far as road tubeless goes , you will have to run that at 75 or 80 psi , and even then there is nothing that will plug them , i would just carry the extra skinny tubes 18c one metal tire lever and one plastic tire lever thats all , you can try worms , bacon , or dyna plugs , but they will never hold long term , if you are set on running these tires for long term riding , and not just one day races or weekly group rides only , then you will want to buy a jar of rubber cement and cut some tube up for patches , rthe hole will need to be patched , even then they might still leak , or burst , road tubeless is just flawed in so many ways , when they work they are great i loved mine , but they dont last , i got hole in one first day first ride , tiny little hole that sealed , but it was super tiny , im super happy with tubed version they seem to be fine , although i have thrown my bike and screamed into the turn at 25 mph on the them , i did race at a race track on them and took sweeping elevated turns around 28 mhp and they felt solid
#12
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On my 30mm Pro Ones I run 75-78 lbs rear and 64-66 front. The DynaPlugs work fine at these pressures. I’ve got probably 1800 miles on one in my rear tire right now. And these are the older version of these tires that I picked up on sale when they came out with the new ones.
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Thanks for the info, I purchased the bike a few days ago. First bike with tubeless and schwalbe pro ones. I ran michelin pro race for years (no flats). Tubeless entirely new for me. Im going to give these a shot and see how they do on longer rides. Ill carry the dynaplug and a tube. what size tube do you carry for your 30mm?
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I always patch my holes from the inside after using a plug. Do I have to? Probably not, but that's just something I choose to do.
#15
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I think my spare tube is a 32-35. I have pretty wide rims so my mounted 30s measure 31.8 inflated. My other wheels have 38mm G-One All Arounds, so I figured the 32-35 is close enough to get me home in either tire and I don’t have to bother switching out my spare tube when I change wheels.
#16
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I carry a spare tube/self-adhesive patches/Dynaplug kit,and a mini-pump along with a couple of Co2 cartridges. Co2 is near freezing when it comes out of the cartridge (freezes the sealant) so a mini-pump can sometimes help if the hole is close to the valve.
Also, don't rely too heavily on the plug kits - they do work but the last time I used one, it failed after a few miles. A spare tube comes in handy even with tubeless tires on occasion
Also, don't rely too heavily on the plug kits - they do work but the last time I used one, it failed after a few miles. A spare tube comes in handy even with tubeless tires on occasion
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Do any of these tires stretch out over time after being installed?
I recently installed 32mm GP5000TL's on my bike and it took some serious effort. I am not confident that I could get one of them off and get a tube inserted while on the side of the road. With this in mind, I'm wondering if carrying a spare tube even makes sense.
I recently installed 32mm GP5000TL's on my bike and it took some serious effort. I am not confident that I could get one of them off and get a tube inserted while on the side of the road. With this in mind, I'm wondering if carrying a spare tube even makes sense.
#18
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The do stretch a little bit not that much. I had my own battles with GP5000’s but decided it wasn’t worth the risk of getting stranded 30 miles from home with a flat. They might be good tires but only if they fit your rims. They’re certainly not a good fit for my Mavics
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Thanks for the info. When I purchased my bike, the previous owner put Schwalbe pro one 28mm tubeless on. The rims are Roval C38. Tubeless is all new to me. Not sure how compatible tubless are with Roval C38's but so far no flats. The ride is very smooth.
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i would switch to the regular pro one with a tube , there is no way those tires will hold up , maybe you will have better results with the newer version with that extra layered of what ever , but as far as road tubeless goes , you will have to run that at 75 or 80 psi , and even then there is nothing that will plug them , i would just carry the extra skinny tubes 18c one metal tire lever and one plastic tire lever thats all , you can try worms , bacon , or dyna plugs , but they will never hold long term , if you are set on running these tires for long term riding , and not just one day races or weekly group rides only , then you will want to buy a jar of rubber cement and cut some tube up for patches , rthe hole will need to be patched , even then they might still leak , or burst , road tubeless is just flawed in so many ways , when they work they are great i loved mine , but they dont last , i got hole in one first day first ride , tiny little hole that sealed , but it was super tiny , im super happy with tubed version they seem to be fine , although i have thrown my bike and screamed into the turn at 25 mph on the them , i did race at a race track on them and took sweeping elevated turns around 28 mhp and they felt solid
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shwalbes new pro ones come in tubeless and tubed , i have been running the tubed version and i they work great , there i no point to running pro ones tubeless outside of races or serious rides on your dedicated tubeless wheels , the tube version will be easier and more cost effective .
if you race on tubeless you will be running higher psi and nothing will seal properly over 80 psi .
if you are set on running tubeless road , go for it , just giving you my POV , when i tried to run the original pro ones , as training tires , they failed me !
Last edited by BillyD; 09-28-20 at 08:52 PM.
#22
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Where did you get the idea that tubeless sealant doesn't work over 80 psi? I've been running tubeless since 2018 at 87 psi and have had a total of 3 flats. The sealant works just fine at those pressures unless the hole is abnormally large.
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[QUOTE=Toespeas;21654234]if you race on tubeless you will be running higher psi and nothing will seal properly over 80 psi ./QUOTE]
I'm not sure whether to laugh out loud or be puzzled as to where you came to such a bizarre conclusion. Tubeless tires will seal just fine above 80 PSI.
On a related note, racers don't use higher pressures unless they're in the velodrome or on the rollers. On the road, 70-80 is a big sweet spot for average sized riders.
BB
I'm not sure whether to laugh out loud or be puzzled as to where you came to such a bizarre conclusion. Tubeless tires will seal just fine above 80 PSI.
On a related note, racers don't use higher pressures unless they're in the velodrome or on the rollers. On the road, 70-80 is a big sweet spot for average sized riders.
BB
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[QUOTE=bbbean;21655071]
ok buddy the hundreds of people that have had problems with tubeless sealing are just making it up , thats why shwalbe release a tubed version because their sales where tanking , no real racer i know would rely on tubeless seriously , they use tubulars , or they use latex tubes , the ones that have tried it usually dont last or swear by them , good luck getting a real puncture to seal over 80 psi , i have not with pro ones , maybe the new ones are better , maybe plugs are better , i haven't bothered in about a year , dont see myself bothering anytime soon , its not worth the effort , if you want serious race day tires you run tubs , if you want some amateur bank for buck hack try tubeless , i really dont care !
if you race on tubeless you will be running higher psi and nothing will seal properly over 80 psi ./QUOTE]
I'm not sure whether to laugh out loud or be puzzled as to where you came to such a bizarre conclusion. Tubeless tires will seal just fine above 80 PSI.
On a related note, racers don't use higher pressures unless they're in the velodrome or on the rollers. On the road, 70-80 is a big sweet spot for average sized riders.
BB
I'm not sure whether to laugh out loud or be puzzled as to where you came to such a bizarre conclusion. Tubeless tires will seal just fine above 80 PSI.
On a related note, racers don't use higher pressures unless they're in the velodrome or on the rollers. On the road, 70-80 is a big sweet spot for average sized riders.
BB
#25
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I had an early version if the Schwalbe Pro One Tubeless and although they were fast & smooth they were horrible with punctures. On almost every ride I was getting sealant spattered on my frame from small punctures.
I took them off for a year & tried them again, and they were much better (more time to cure?), but still had too many leaks.
I may try another brand.
Was there a problem with early versions of this tire?
Thanks
I took them off for a year & tried them again, and they were much better (more time to cure?), but still had too many leaks.
I may try another brand.
Was there a problem with early versions of this tire?
Thanks