Bruce27

Well, it's worth a look. I take it you are comfortable in your current set up? Looks like it would be...

52telecaster

I'm extremely comfortable. All my bikes are set up pretty similar but I have a bit of arthritis that makes me want to sit upright. I can still tour and do 50-70 miles loaded in this upright position. I'm not fast but I am mobile.

Bruce27

That's my objective here. May I ask if you changed both the stem and bar at the same time or did you start with one, then added the other?

52telecaster

First I started with technomic stems. Then later with upright bars. At this point I prefer porteur bars inverted to give a little rise and then the technomic stem will get the bar as high as I could ever want. Dirt drop stems will work too but they are hard to use with a bar that has sharp bends. I use bars that are road diameter so I can use barcons. The whole setup works great for me.

52telecaster

My 3 speed setup

The Golden Boy 

To tell the truth- during riding season you can make the change and actually ride it to see how it goes.

I know we've talked about bars and lever positions before- my left hand was crushed 10 years ago, so I have to be careful about how much weight it can bear and grip and strength and everything.

Have you considered things like Trekking bars? I have a set on a bike, I play with them from time to time- but the set I have doesn't seem to work for me. But there's BUNCHES of different shapes off the same theme out there.

Trekking Bars Cockpit. by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

1987 Schwinn High Sierra by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr



Wow those pix are old... the bars are wrapped and a little more angled now.

52telecaster

Great option!

Bruce27

I was just checking that stem option out TheGoldenBoy and trying to imagine the fit... probably be a bit crazy with drop bars.

52telecaster

I have knockoff stems like that and they give you a ton of rise.

Bruce27

Tempting. They are marketed for MTB's but I'd certainly be in a more upright position with that stem. Ever try them with dropbars?

52telecaster

Yes but it's hell getting the bars in on the kalloy version. You have to spring the clamp a bit.

Bruce27

Thanks for that. The MTB stem has added even more options. The upward slope combined with a long stem does look like it would add a lot of height and reduce the bar reach. It would be great if I could use the existing bar/brake levers and swap out the stem. Don't think I've ever seen a combination like that before.

Bruce27

Never heard of Trekking bars but keeping an open mind on options. One thing I've realized since this thread is there are way more handlebar designs than I knew. Trying to do a one and done, achieve the results, and not have a domino effect.

The stem vs handlebar change choice has added to the considerations.

mrv 

If you’re not RivBikes email list, pm me your email address and I’ll forward it to you.
They got lots of photos of staff bikes handle bar set ups. All are swept back and looking comfy. RivStyle.
It might be on the site, but I’m too lazy to look.

cheers.

https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/news/a...eid=82eb05e380

daywood 

I like to use a quill adapter because of the world of options it opens for stem length and angle. I’ll even use an adjustable stem sometimes to dial in what works for comfort and geometry, and then replace it with a fixed one that is close to that compromise. Using the quill adapter can also facilitate switching back and forth between a fixed bar setup and a drop bar setup if you want some variety over time on the bike. Chances are each will have a different stem angle and length.

52telecaster

I have done the same. Quill adapters are incredibly useful.

The Golden Boy 

I have a setup like that on my 620:

1985 Trek 620 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr

Bruce27

That looks very clean The Golden Boy . It looks like a natural for your bike. Not at all odd like I thought it would look. I'm guessing you replaced the original stem? Were you happy with increased comfort level with the upright stem?
Thanks

madpogue 

No one's mentioned another option, possibly in conjunction with a stem swap -- switch to conventional drop-bar "aero" levers (introduced mid '80s, so fairly period-correct), and include a set of those "cheater" levers that mount at about the point the tape terminates at the top of the bar. This will give you the tops as another position option.

sd5782 

[QUOTE=Bruce27;22444379]I was just checking that stem option out TheGoldenBoy and trying to imagine the fit... probably be a bit crazy with drop bars.
[/QUOTE

I used a couple of the cheaper mtn dirt drop stems on my bikes, but as stated they may not work easily. Perhaps that Nitto one would. It may have been designed for the conversion originally. I don’t think they look too bad.



1983 Trek 700



Old Kalloy stem with more room to raise

As stated, putting on around the bar curves is the problem. The couple I used were wider at the bar clamp area than the stock stem. My crude solution was putting on a belt sander to narrow to the same measurement as a standard stem, but then also there needs to be the corresponding angled section that follows the inside curve of the bars when installing. It is a barbaric operation that takes time and trial and error. Invariably nicks and gouges are made that need sanded and cleaned up at the end. This is not a solution for a show bike.



83 Peugeot UO14



Sanding marks more evident here

The mountain stems were wider at the clamp area, so sanding leaves a coarse edge. I wouldn’t really recommend this path unless you have the tools and get the stem for very cheap as I did at the co-op. The Nitto pictured in the other post would perhaps work as is. My photos for visualization for you.

52telecaster

[QUOTE=sd5782;22445767]I did the same on my bob Jackson world tour. The kalloy gave me as much rise as a technomic. I eventually went to porteur bars but kept the stem.

Bruce27

I'm checking out a Nitto that has an upward slope. It has a 25.4mm dia at the bar and 22.2mm stem dia. so I'm thinking it would fit. Not sure about the clamp width difference between the original and the Nitto though.

The Golden Boy 

Thank you!

Yes, this replaced the original stem (which had it's own issues), but the bars are different as well. There's the height, there's reach, and then the hand positions. I'm happy with the height. As I get older, I'm also playing with the idea of changing the reach. For bars, I'm using Nitto B177 bars on most of my bikes as well as a Nitto B132 Rando bar. I ride mostly on the corners, then tops, then ramps, then hoods- I'm only in the drops riding into the wind. When I look at your bars, I'm liking the idea of the upturned bars (hence my recommendation of the trekking/butterfly bars), but the brake lever position looks so anti-ergonomic- rotating the wrists and then reaching... With the bars turned up- that puts an "neutral-ish" lever position way out there. I'm using aero levers now which dramatically change braking ability from the hoods. Seriously- the Tektro RRL levers just fall under your fingers- they're more comfortable, you have more leverage not just because of your more neutral wrist position- but also from the whole aero lever aspect...

Here's the 720 with the Technomic:

IMG_1703 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr



I think this shows how the lever "zigs" towards your fingers- you don't have to reach as far to get purchase on the lever to pull. Of course, the look of the RRL levers is something to get used to...

IMG_0218 by Dave The Golden Boy, on Flickr


What I like: both the riser stem and the Technomic make riding much more comfortable for me. What I like about the B177 bars is the flat area at the corners (more surface area to rest my palm) and the longer ramp. They also have a rise from the tops- Again- I need to change hand positions a lot with my left hand and I do bear more weight with my right- so I need to change positions and spread that weight out as best I can. I realize I'm only going to be able to ride drop bars and use drop bar brake levers comfortably for a finite amount of time- so a few years ago I did get some really nice ATB brake levers for when I do have to go to flat/north road/porteur bars.

Remember there are riser stems that accept different diameter bars- there's no need to get a stem and then do the sanding.

What I would change now- like I mentioned- a little less reach. The top tubes on both the 620 and 720 are a little longer than the average bear- I could easily roll with an 80mm stem instead of the 90.

Good luck with this- This is your contact area with the bike- take the time to get it right for you. Don't try knocking it out of the park on the first try.

Bruce27

After receiving much appreciated ideas, here is the result of the change.
Contrary to the thread title, it’s the same handlebar, but, a new stem.
I ended up getting a Nitto MT 10-80. The stem is all the way down and at the stretched limit of the brake housing, but it's giving me about 3-4" in height using the existing cable and housing.
The bar clamp area is about 6mm wider than the original bar and went on without a problem… thank goodness.
The jury will be out until many miles are added, but first impression is positive.
The input from everyone was excellent. What started out as a handlebar change took a totally different direction. Thank you again to all.

Hobbiano 

I can't believe that is all the way down. You may need to clean the inside of your steerer tube to allow the full range of adjustability.