Show Us Your 650B Conversions
#701
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Speaking of one color powder for rider frames with rough paint...
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#702
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Hmmmm, early 720?
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#703
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#704
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Yeah but what about all the cool stereo gear in pic? Inquiring minds would like to know . . .
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#705
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Nice!!! Can’t wait to see the build!
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
#706
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Another thread that is new to me. And timely, since I have two 650b conversions in-process at the moment. One of them is a `78 Motobecane Grand Touring, and the other is a Trek (531) 400 Elance, not sure which year. I've done one already, and it has featured here in a few threads. But here are a couple images I don't think I published:
This bike, with its comfy Col de la Vie tires, is a real mile-eater. When the day calls for a long ride, I usually reach for my Sequoia.
.
This bike, with its comfy Col de la Vie tires, is a real mile-eater. When the day calls for a long ride, I usually reach for my Sequoia.
.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
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Roulez pour la joie, jamais pour la douleur.
USMC 1981-1991 Semper Fi!
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#707
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Nothing special, really. Some cheap-ish Sanyo receiver, an Audio-Technica LP120 turntable, a thrift store cassette deck, and some 8" two way speakers. It sounds good enough for me though I really need to raise those speakers up about a foot or two, though.
Last edited by abshipp; 02-01-20 at 01:26 PM.
#708
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Done
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^ Very nice! Ready to rando!
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#711
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That's the plan!
I've put a 6-pack in there before and nothing gets weird. I do have a 63mm offset fork on there, and with the 73.5° head angle I have around 33mm of trail. So this is absolutely a low trail bike and should handle front loads very well.
I currently have battery lights, I just didn't include them in the picture. I think I might go with a dynamo hub on the next wheelset for this. I've got a pair of Velocity A23 rims that I plan on running on this bike.
I currently have battery lights, I just didn't include them in the picture. I think I might go with a dynamo hub on the next wheelset for this. I've got a pair of Velocity A23 rims that I plan on running on this bike.
#713
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#715
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Dang! That is one sweet looking ride!! My wife’s and my 710’s haven’t been so heavily modified, but are set up Rando-style as well. Some off the best tidings bikes we have!
Post up over in the “show your Trek” thread too!
Post up over in the “show your Trek” thread too!
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1970 Gitane TdF; 1973 Gitane TdF
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
1979 Trek 710; 1981 Trek 412; 1981 Trek 710
1984 Specialized Stumpjumper Sport; 1985 Specialized Allez SE; 1988 Specialized Sirrus; 1989 Specialized Rock Combo
1984 Ross Mt. Hood
1988 Centurion Ironman Expert
1991 Bridgestone RB-1
1992 Serotta Colorado TG
2015 Elephant NFE
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#716
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abshipp what front rack and bag are those?
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
#717
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Thanks Miguel! One of the upcoming changes is on your recommendation - a SR Apex 86bcd crank.
Thanks jlaw! I’m actually back to a non three pulley cyclone. I don’t need the extended range where I live, I’ve changed my crank setup a bit.
Thanks jlaw! I’m actually back to a non three pulley cyclone. I don’t need the extended range where I live, I’ve changed my crank setup a bit.
#718
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abshipp what front rack and bag are those?
Bag is a large Swift Ozette from the discontinued "Cascade" collection. They had been blowing these out for a while, but I guess they finally sold out of them.
The bag color was actually the reason this bike is now silver. I didn't like how the green and the original blue looked, and it ended up being much more economical to change the bike color instead of finding a new bag
#719
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That is the Nitto rack made for the now defunct Granary Bicycles.
Bag is a large Swift Ozette from the discontinued "Cascade" collection. They had been blowing these out for a while, but I guess they finally sold out of them.
The bag color was actually the reason this bike is now silver. I didn't like how the green and the original blue looked, and it ended up being much more economical to change the bike color instead of finding a new bag
Bag is a large Swift Ozette from the discontinued "Cascade" collection. They had been blowing these out for a while, but I guess they finally sold out of them.
The bag color was actually the reason this bike is now silver. I didn't like how the green and the original blue looked, and it ended up being much more economical to change the bike color instead of finding a new bag
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
#720
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Thanks. Are those racks still available anywhere? I like that the platform is a little bigger than your average Nitto thing. I have a similar Trek 650b project going, and I'm hung up on the rack situation right now. I have a Berthoud bag for recreational rides, but it's not big enough for commuting with a salad jar and a laptop. I was going to TIG weld a rack with some sort of modular system with a porteur platform or basket that bolts on, but that's a lot of work. Your system looks great for both commuting and riding recreationally, and would not require any fabrication.
This Swift Industries bag is huge. Definitely bigger than I need, but it's the size that works best aesthetically.
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#721
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That's a real beauty. I'm curious how it handles on corners. That bottom bracket looks really low.
Always a key concern in 650B modifications.
: -)
Always a key concern in 650B modifications.
: -)
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1959 Hilton Wrigley Connoisseur (my favorite!)
1963 Hetchins Mountain King
1971 Gitane Tour de France (original owner)
* 1971 Gitane Super Corsa (crashed)
* rebuilt as upright cruiser
1971 Gitane Super Corsa #2 (sweet replacement)
1980 Ritchey Road Touring (The Grail Bike)
1982 Tom Ritchey Everest
(replacing stolen 1981 TR Everest custom)
1982 Tom Ritchey McKinley (touring pickup truck)
1985 ALAN Record (Glued & Screwed. A gift.)
#722
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On my recent '50s Follis conversion I did just that, except it was made for road racing tubulars, prolly more like 21 or 22 mm. But then I put 180 mm cranks on it, and wide Lyotard 460 pedals which do not have a cutaway underside for cornering clearance. Still haven't caught a pedal yet.
Reminds me of this interview I saw with Greg Lemond. He said he favored a bike with a low bottom bracket, and someone asked him "but what about when you pedal through corners?"
He replied "Why would you pedal through a corner?" This is a guy who won way more than his share of criteriums. If you're not racing, then pedaling through a high speed corner is inept.
The only practical downside to the lower BB is scraping your toke lips if you pedal a stroke or two before flipping the pedal and getting into the clips. So (1) don't do that! Get into the clips before pedaling even one circle -- not difficult. Or (2) use clipless pedals, problem solved.
Mark B in Seattle
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#723
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I might quibble with "always". If you convert from 700c x 23 mm tires to 650b x 42 mm, the bottom bracket height stays exactly the same. Well OK the wider tires will be used at lower pressure so there's more squish. But almost any bike can stand to be lowered by that much.
On my recent '50s Follis conversion I did just that, except it was made for road racing tubulars, prolly more like 21 or 22 mm. But then I put 180 mm cranks on it, and wide Lyotard 460 pedals which do not have a cutaway underside for cornering clearance. Still haven't caught a pedal yet.
Reminds me of this interview I saw with Greg Lemond. He said he favored a bike with a low bottom bracket, and someone asked him "but what about when you pedal through corners?"
He replied "Why would you pedal through a corner?" This is a guy who won way more than his share of criteriums. If you're not racing, then pedaling through a high speed corner is inept.
The only practical downside to the lower BB is scraping your toke lips if you pedal a stroke or two before flipping the pedal and getting into the clips. So (1) don't do that! Get into the clips before pedaling even one circle -- not difficult. Or (2) use clipless pedals, problem solved.
Mark B in Seattle
On my recent '50s Follis conversion I did just that, except it was made for road racing tubulars, prolly more like 21 or 22 mm. But then I put 180 mm cranks on it, and wide Lyotard 460 pedals which do not have a cutaway underside for cornering clearance. Still haven't caught a pedal yet.
Reminds me of this interview I saw with Greg Lemond. He said he favored a bike with a low bottom bracket, and someone asked him "but what about when you pedal through corners?"
He replied "Why would you pedal through a corner?" This is a guy who won way more than his share of criteriums. If you're not racing, then pedaling through a high speed corner is inept.
The only practical downside to the lower BB is scraping your toke lips if you pedal a stroke or two before flipping the pedal and getting into the clips. So (1) don't do that! Get into the clips before pedaling even one circle -- not difficult. Or (2) use clipless pedals, problem solved.
Mark B in Seattle
It's often mentioned as the first thing to check, but I've only had one (1) bike that had a smidgen of an issue with low BB height. The pedals would scrape when I rode in the speedbump cutout through an apartment parking lot shortcut on my commute home. The bumps were a bit high, I just learned to keep the pedals horizontal when riding through there.
Rarely an issue.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#724
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I might quibble with "always". If you convert from 700c x 23 mm tires to 650b x 42 mm, the bottom bracket height stays exactly the same. Well OK the wider tires will be used at lower pressure so there's more squish. But almost any bike can stand to be lowered by that much.
On my recent '50s Follis conversion I did just that, except it was made for road racing tubulars, prolly more like 21 or 22 mm. But then I put 180 mm cranks on it, and wide Lyotard 460 pedals which do not have a cutaway underside for cornering clearance. Still haven't caught a pedal yet.
Reminds me of this interview I saw with Greg Lemond. He said he favored a bike with a low bottom bracket, and someone asked him "but what about when you pedal through corners?"
He replied "Why would you pedal through a corner?" This is a guy who won way more than his share of criteriums. If you're not racing, then pedaling through a high speed corner is inept.
The only practical downside to the lower BB is scraping your toke lips if you pedal a stroke or two before flipping the pedal and getting into the clips. So (1) don't do that! Get into the clips before pedaling even one circle -- not difficult. Or (2) use clipless pedals, problem solved.
Mark B in Seattle
On my recent '50s Follis conversion I did just that, except it was made for road racing tubulars, prolly more like 21 or 22 mm. But then I put 180 mm cranks on it, and wide Lyotard 460 pedals which do not have a cutaway underside for cornering clearance. Still haven't caught a pedal yet.
Reminds me of this interview I saw with Greg Lemond. He said he favored a bike with a low bottom bracket, and someone asked him "but what about when you pedal through corners?"
He replied "Why would you pedal through a corner?" This is a guy who won way more than his share of criteriums. If you're not racing, then pedaling through a high speed corner is inept.
The only practical downside to the lower BB is scraping your toke lips if you pedal a stroke or two before flipping the pedal and getting into the clips. So (1) don't do that! Get into the clips before pedaling even one circle -- not difficult. Or (2) use clipless pedals, problem solved.
Mark B in Seattle
+1
It's often mentioned as the first thing to check, but I've only had one (1) bike that had a smidgen of an issue with low BB height. The pedals would scrape when I rode in the speedbump cutout through an apartment parking lot shortcut on my commute home. The bumps were a bit high, I just learned to keep the pedals horizontal when riding through there.
Rarely an issue.
It's often mentioned as the first thing to check, but I've only had one (1) bike that had a smidgen of an issue with low BB height. The pedals would scrape when I rode in the speedbump cutout through an apartment parking lot shortcut on my commute home. The bumps were a bit high, I just learned to keep the pedals horizontal when riding through there.
Rarely an issue.
I can drag my heel if I try to even on level ground, so yes, the BB is quite low. But for the style of riding that this bike inspires that's really not an issue.
#725
Senior Member
I haven't had a pedal strike yet. Using SPD pedals and not pedaling through corners is probably why.