Upgrade to 'new' bike or upgrade current?
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Upgrade to 'new' bike or upgrade current?
Hi guys, c&v bicycles are too addicting! I currently have an early 90s Centurion made Diamondback Prevail. Exage 500ex through out, have worked most of the kinks out etc. Frame is made out of OS tange. I have also found a 1976 Nishiki Pro for a couple of hundred. It's been slightly modernized with an assortment of parts. Suntour superbe and Shimano 600 tri color, Nashbar crank, Phil Wood hubs, modern stem/bars and I think campy aero brake levers. It looks to be in great shape, the current owner has had it for many years.
I'm just looking for opinions. The lure of a 'high end' frame is tempting even though my current bike works just fine. I can afford both but it is not ideal. If I buy the Nishiki, the DB has to go. Plus it with match my 78 International.
I'm just looking for opinions. The lure of a 'high end' frame is tempting even though my current bike works just fine. I can afford both but it is not ideal. If I buy the Nishiki, the DB has to go. Plus it with match my 78 International.
Last edited by Azekii2; 07-08-16 at 10:03 AM.
#2
Senior Member
With the British pound taking a nosedive, Shimano groupsets are very cheap now. You'd just have to get compatible wheels.
Shimano 105 (5800) Black 11 Speed Double Groupset - Components - Ribble Cycles
Shimano 105 (5800) Black 11 Speed Double Groupset - Components - Ribble Cycles
#3
PeopleCode delaminator
I went from a 1984 Centurion Elite RS with all original parts to a 1986 Trek Elance 310.
The Centurion has a 62cm frame and is too large for me. The Trek is a 58cm, and I built it up with a new 105 (5800) groupset and new wheels.
The biggest benefit (aside from a properly sized frame) was no longer worrying about how to find/fix old parts while on vacation or out on a group ride. Most any shop you roll into will be able to deal with new Shimano parts, not so much a 30+ year old Suntour.
There's also 11 speeds on the rear cassette and being able to shift gears while keeping your hands on the bars is nice.
How you see yourself riding the bike may help determine your answer. Is this a bike to ride a few times a year on a gentle outing, or will you be riding it at least 1 to 2 times a week with lots of saddle time?
If you want the bike equivalent of an MG convertible, I would keep the Centurion as is or get the Nishiki. If you want a 'daily driver', swap out the parts on the Centurion. Even if the new 105 group is as soulless as a minivan.
These wheels are very similar to the set I put on my bike:
Mavic CXP Elitte Shimano 5800 105 Hubs Road Bike Wheelset 10 11s [640297] - $169.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
The Centurion has a 62cm frame and is too large for me. The Trek is a 58cm, and I built it up with a new 105 (5800) groupset and new wheels.
The biggest benefit (aside from a properly sized frame) was no longer worrying about how to find/fix old parts while on vacation or out on a group ride. Most any shop you roll into will be able to deal with new Shimano parts, not so much a 30+ year old Suntour.
There's also 11 speeds on the rear cassette and being able to shift gears while keeping your hands on the bars is nice.
How you see yourself riding the bike may help determine your answer. Is this a bike to ride a few times a year on a gentle outing, or will you be riding it at least 1 to 2 times a week with lots of saddle time?
If you want the bike equivalent of an MG convertible, I would keep the Centurion as is or get the Nishiki. If you want a 'daily driver', swap out the parts on the Centurion. Even if the new 105 group is as soulless as a minivan.
These wheels are very similar to the set I put on my bike:
Mavic CXP Elitte Shimano 5800 105 Hubs Road Bike Wheelset 10 11s [640297] - $169.00 Velomine.com : Worldwide Bicycle Shop, fixed gear track bike wheelsets campagnolo super record vintage bike
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I read the OP's post. Appears he's pretty much talked himself into the Nishiki.
With those components and a pretty frame, plus his other '70's bike, I don't see why not.
Sell the DB to offset any costs.
With those components and a pretty frame, plus his other '70's bike, I don't see why not.
Sell the DB to offset any costs.
#5
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Which frame fits you best? How about ride quality and handling?
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Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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This exactly. I haven't rode the Nishiki yet but if I like it better I'm buying. I just wanted some sort of outside affirmation. Good to know there are good and inexpensive ways of modernising a bike though. Thanks guys.
#7
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IMFAO neither are particularly amazing so go with what makes you happy. Or do what you said and chase the allure of a higher end frame and build it up with decent parts.
The best part about the Nishiki is the Phil hubs followed (distantly) by the frame. The mixed drivetrain contains nothing that should make anyone salivate. 600 Tri Color and Superbe has cachet value but really is nothing special in terms of function... the Nashbar crank I shouldn't have to say anything about, and the brake levers are just brake levers.
The best part about the Nishiki is the Phil hubs followed (distantly) by the frame. The mixed drivetrain contains nothing that should make anyone salivate. 600 Tri Color and Superbe has cachet value but really is nothing special in terms of function... the Nashbar crank I shouldn't have to say anything about, and the brake levers are just brake levers.
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My opinions are usually ****ing adorable.
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My opinions are usually ****ing adorable.
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Commence to jigglin’ huh?!?!
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Nice looking Diamond Back --- personally I have no interest in modernizing a machine from the 70's, but that DB may already have 130mm dropout spacing being early 90's --- If not, its easy to spread from 126 if you would like to add a modern drivetrain - like the 10 and 11 speed late model 105 and Ultegra stuff someone mentioned
I normally keep things "period correct" , but I just did my first "modernization" of a Centurion for a friend and it is a really cool machine
The Nishiki Pro likely started out with a 120 back end and may be able to spread to 126 but may never be able to run a modern drivetrain
But like so many C&V dilemma's -- there's really no bad choice
I normally keep things "period correct" , but I just did my first "modernization" of a Centurion for a friend and it is a really cool machine
The Nishiki Pro likely started out with a 120 back end and may be able to spread to 126 but may never be able to run a modern drivetrain
But like so many C&V dilemma's -- there's really no bad choice
Last edited by DMC707; 07-10-16 at 03:32 PM.
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