Bikes/Frames to avoid...?
10-18-09, 07:24 PM
#1
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Bikes/Frames to avoid...?
Looking to get back into road bikes after riding BMX for many years...
Found a 56cm Roadmaster Scorcher but I've heard they suck....is this true? It's 50 bucks, missing front brakes. It's the only "ready to ride" that I can find under a strict budget of $100....
I have found some others, but they're going for up to $250, and I'm waiting on a buyer for my 80's Redline BMX bike, among other things I'm selling...
Found a 56cm Roadmaster Scorcher but I've heard they suck....is this true? It's 50 bucks, missing front brakes. It's the only "ready to ride" that I can find under a strict budget of $100....
I have found some others, but they're going for up to $250, and I'm waiting on a buyer for my 80's Redline BMX bike, among other things I'm selling...
10-18-09, 07:27 PM
#3
ka maté ka maté ka ora
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you could try stealing one.
10-18-09, 07:28 PM
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Yes it is true. Keep looking.
10-18-09, 07:29 PM
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For $100 or less you are probably looking at a Schwinn Varsity, World Sport, or Sprint from the 70's or early 80's. They weigh a ton but are virtually bullet proof.
Best of luck,
Mike
Best of luck,
Mike
10-18-09, 07:58 PM
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So I take it I should run from the Roadmaster like it's the plague?
10-18-09, 09:17 PM
#7
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yes. You may already be infected. I'm taking a chance just posting in your thread...
10-18-09, 09:19 PM
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What kind of BMX bikes did you use to ride? How much money did you spend on them?
10-18-09, 10:06 PM
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First BMX was (and still have, up for sale now) a 80's Redline w/ a 19"TT. I recently put a new caliper brake, brake cable and seat, along with a pair of new tires. I chopped 1/2" off each end of the bars. It's a 1" threaded fork/headset. I bought this one for $25 complete. Rode it for quite awhile and a few years ago had to swap out the chainwheel and rear wheel. Maybe spent $150 over the 9 years of ownership...
Had a Specialized TJ Lavin 20.5"TT frame'd bike that I just disassembled (too small, hit knees too many times..) for a Premium frame w/ a 21" TT. I'm pretty much transferring all the parts, but I came to find out the seatpost and post clamp are too big, the bb wasn't the same and I need another spacer for the headset. Other than that, it was a pretty easy "rebuild". I'm using a newer chainwheel, I had to switch to 9/16" pedals (now using a euro bb w/ a 3pc crank). I am NOT using the detangler this time around. I spent probably close to over a $1,000 on these two frames and associated parts. Frame I got off "a friend of a friend" deal and a parts package from Dan's COMP.
For my other BMX, I have a '09 Haro X24 (24" wheels, 21.7"TT). Had to get a longer seatpost, and changed the tires from Kenda K-Rads to a wider front Maxxis Holy Roller and another Holy Roller out back. Other than that, it's OEM. I'm debating on getting higher rise bars (they use a Haro High Ten bar that uses a 5.25" rise). This bike I got at my LBS for $330 out the door w/ a year free tune-ups, which I already may have ran out. I spent 20 on the longer seatpost and another 40 for the tires.
I did get a hand-me-down 70's Nishiki International roadbike from a good friend. Not sure of the frame size now, but it fit pretty good. I didnt' buy a single thing for it. It had the quick release wheels and brake calipers front and back...IIRC it was either a 10 or 12 speed.
Also I did get a Sears Spaulding MTB in my late elementary/high school years and the spindle snapped. So I never bought any more "department store" bikes since then.
Had a Specialized TJ Lavin 20.5"TT frame'd bike that I just disassembled (too small, hit knees too many times..) for a Premium frame w/ a 21" TT. I'm pretty much transferring all the parts, but I came to find out the seatpost and post clamp are too big, the bb wasn't the same and I need another spacer for the headset. Other than that, it was a pretty easy "rebuild". I'm using a newer chainwheel, I had to switch to 9/16" pedals (now using a euro bb w/ a 3pc crank). I am NOT using the detangler this time around. I spent probably close to over a $1,000 on these two frames and associated parts. Frame I got off "a friend of a friend" deal and a parts package from Dan's COMP.
For my other BMX, I have a '09 Haro X24 (24" wheels, 21.7"TT). Had to get a longer seatpost, and changed the tires from Kenda K-Rads to a wider front Maxxis Holy Roller and another Holy Roller out back. Other than that, it's OEM. I'm debating on getting higher rise bars (they use a Haro High Ten bar that uses a 5.25" rise). This bike I got at my LBS for $330 out the door w/ a year free tune-ups, which I already may have ran out. I spent 20 on the longer seatpost and another 40 for the tires.
I did get a hand-me-down 70's Nishiki International roadbike from a good friend. Not sure of the frame size now, but it fit pretty good. I didnt' buy a single thing for it. It had the quick release wheels and brake calipers front and back...IIRC it was either a 10 or 12 speed.
Also I did get a Sears Spaulding MTB in my late elementary/high school years and the spindle snapped. So I never bought any more "department store" bikes since then.
10-18-09, 10:11 PM
#10
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I think I may have actually lucked out. Found a local who's selling two 58cm Univega Nuovo Sports. Both have quick release wheels and brake calipers, CroMo frame, Shimano components, downtube shifting. Also both 12 speeds. One's brown and the other's a darkish pink. Either way, it's getting repainted. Both are firm at $165. And the best thing is that they're ready to ride. Maybe a minor tuneup, but nonetheless, ready to ride....hehe
10-18-09, 10:18 PM
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You may be able to find a good deal on Craigslist. I would stay away from Huffy, Roadmasters, and some Schwinns. Definitely stay away from Walmart bikes.
10-18-09, 10:30 PM
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I think I may have actually lucked out. Found a local who's selling two 58cm Univega Nuovo Sports. Both have quick release wheels and brake calipers, CroMo frame, Shimano components, downtube shifting. Also both 12 speeds. One's brown and the other's a darkish pink. Either way, it's getting repainted. Both are firm at $165. And the best thing is that they're ready to ride. Maybe a minor tuneup, but nonetheless, ready to ride....hehe
10-19-09, 12:53 PM
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LOL, I just realized that.....anyway, hope I can acquire the brown one. At least I can just hop on and ride. The dark pink I'd have to repaint before riding in public! LOL
10-19-09, 01:33 PM
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avoid Cannondale...(I've never even seen one, but this is according to just about everyone on these forums)
10-19-09, 02:28 PM
#18
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Cervelo's are nothing more than rebadged Murray's. Go get yourself a good Murray
10-19-09, 02:32 PM
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First BMX was (and still have, up for sale now) a 80's Redline w/ a 19"TT. I recently put a new caliper brake, brake cable and seat, along with a pair of new tires. I chopped 1/2" off each end of the bars. It's a 1" threaded fork/headset. I bought this one for $25 complete. Rode it for quite awhile and a few years ago had to swap out the chainwheel and rear wheel. Maybe spent $150 over the 9 years of ownership...
Had a Specialized TJ Lavin 20.5"TT frame'd bike that I just disassembled (too small, hit knees too many times..) for a Premium frame w/ a 21" TT. I'm pretty much transferring all the parts, but I came to find out the seatpost and post clamp are too big, the bb wasn't the same and I need another spacer for the headset. Other than that, it was a pretty easy "rebuild". I'm using a newer chainwheel, I had to switch to 9/16" pedals (now using a euro bb w/ a 3pc crank). I am NOT using the detangler this time around. I spent probably close to over a $1,000 on these two frames and associated parts. Frame I got off "a friend of a friend" deal and a parts package from Dan's COMP.
For my other BMX, I have a '09 Haro X24 (24" wheels, 21.7"TT). Had to get a longer seatpost, and changed the tires from Kenda K-Rads to a wider front Maxxis Holy Roller and another Holy Roller out back. Other than that, it's OEM. I'm debating on getting higher rise bars (they use a Haro High Ten bar that uses a 5.25" rise). This bike I got at my LBS for $330 out the door w/ a year free tune-ups, which I already may have ran out. I spent 20 on the longer seatpost and another 40 for the tires.
I did get a hand-me-down 70's Nishiki International roadbike from a good friend. Not sure of the frame size now, but it fit pretty good. I didnt' buy a single thing for it. It had the quick release wheels and brake calipers front and back...IIRC it was either a 10 or 12 speed.
Also I did get a Sears Spaulding MTB in my late elementary/high school years and the spindle snapped. So I never bought any more "department store" bikes since then.
Had a Specialized TJ Lavin 20.5"TT frame'd bike that I just disassembled (too small, hit knees too many times..) for a Premium frame w/ a 21" TT. I'm pretty much transferring all the parts, but I came to find out the seatpost and post clamp are too big, the bb wasn't the same and I need another spacer for the headset. Other than that, it was a pretty easy "rebuild". I'm using a newer chainwheel, I had to switch to 9/16" pedals (now using a euro bb w/ a 3pc crank). I am NOT using the detangler this time around. I spent probably close to over a $1,000 on these two frames and associated parts. Frame I got off "a friend of a friend" deal and a parts package from Dan's COMP.
For my other BMX, I have a '09 Haro X24 (24" wheels, 21.7"TT). Had to get a longer seatpost, and changed the tires from Kenda K-Rads to a wider front Maxxis Holy Roller and another Holy Roller out back. Other than that, it's OEM. I'm debating on getting higher rise bars (they use a Haro High Ten bar that uses a 5.25" rise). This bike I got at my LBS for $330 out the door w/ a year free tune-ups, which I already may have ran out. I spent 20 on the longer seatpost and another 40 for the tires.
I did get a hand-me-down 70's Nishiki International roadbike from a good friend. Not sure of the frame size now, but it fit pretty good. I didnt' buy a single thing for it. It had the quick release wheels and brake calipers front and back...IIRC it was either a 10 or 12 speed.
Also I did get a Sears Spaulding MTB in my late elementary/high school years and the spindle snapped. So I never bought any more "department store" bikes since then.
10-19-09, 02:40 PM
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10-19-09, 04:31 PM
#22
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10-19-09, 06:25 PM
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Avoid anything carbon - they explode. Avoid aluminum, especially CAAD9 - they should be recycled back into the beers cans from whence they came.
10-19-09, 06:46 PM
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Aluminum bikes aren't made of beer can alloy! And CF bikes aren't made of the brittle CF found on tennis racket handles! Surely you jest! 
