How long before a drivetrain needs to be replaced?
#1
Sucking Wheel at the back
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bristol, VA
Posts: 779
Bikes: Lynskey Helix Sport, Lynskey M290, Cervelo S3
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
How long before a drivetrain needs to be replaced?
I have a dura-ace 7800 group that is 3 years old.
Having problems with smooth shifting on the FR Derailleur and a little less than perfect on the rear.
Just had it tuned up by my LBS mechanic who is really good. He said he had a really hard time getting the FR DR to shift correctly.
As in shifting fine on stand but throwing over when on the bike.
This is the reason I took it to them to tune on it. I could not figure it out and neither could he.
Having the itch to buy a SRAM Red group.
Also, how long should a set of chainrings last?
Having problems with smooth shifting on the FR Derailleur and a little less than perfect on the rear.
Just had it tuned up by my LBS mechanic who is really good. He said he had a really hard time getting the FR DR to shift correctly.
As in shifting fine on stand but throwing over when on the bike.
This is the reason I took it to them to tune on it. I could not figure it out and neither could he.
Having the itch to buy a SRAM Red group.
Also, how long should a set of chainrings last?
#2
Should Be More Popular
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,032
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 560 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22579 Post(s)
Liked 8,919 Times
in
4,153 Posts
I have a dura-ace 7400 drivetrain on my roadbike, it is 25 years old with at least 35,000 miles on it.
So a good drivetrain should last a LONG time.
So a good drivetrain should last a LONG time.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Northern Nevada
Posts: 3,811
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Front derailleurs really don't have to do much. I might be concerned about a shop that couldn't make mine work.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 914
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
The only things I have worn out on my 7800 is the chain and cassette. If I wear the items down until they're no longer usable, then (for me) it's ~8K miles for the chain and ~$10K miles for the cassette. The FD cage is about half-way worn through, so I guess I probably expect maybe 30K miles from it. Not sure about the chainrings, both still look pretty good. There seems to be very little wear on the pulley wheels on the RD. My previous crank (not 10 speed) lasted around 50K miles before the performance degraded, and became totally unusable at around 75K miles (chains will slip under power). My previous RD had the spring wore out (got too weak) before the pulley wheels, but I changed them out at 75K miles.
#7
Senior Member
I hate drivetrain problems so do what I can to avoid them.
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Santa Cruz Mountains
Posts: 6,169
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I have DA 7800 on my #1 bike that is 3.5 years old. The RD is even older, it's a 7700 that I used for a couple years before I got the 7800 bike. It can handle the 12-30 cassette that I use for the Everest Challenge. I put about 6000-6500 miles a year on this bike. Everything works fine. I have replaced the crank once (to a lighter and cheaper crank, demoting the one that came on the bike to my #2 bike) and replaced the chainrings on that crank once.
I do replace the chain frequently, around 2500 miles or so, when the shifting starts going downhill. And the cables get replaced a lot- inners twice a year, outer housing once a year. Shimano 10sp cables wear out fast, and are the first thing to look at when you have shifting problems. You can inspect the inner cables inside the shifter, which is where they break, using a flashlight and looking through the insertion hole. If you see any fraying, replace. Replace if it's been more than 5000 miles or 1 year since they were replaced last.
If you maintain it, it'll last a long time.
I do replace the chain frequently, around 2500 miles or so, when the shifting starts going downhill. And the cables get replaced a lot- inners twice a year, outer housing once a year. Shimano 10sp cables wear out fast, and are the first thing to look at when you have shifting problems. You can inspect the inner cables inside the shifter, which is where they break, using a flashlight and looking through the insertion hole. If you see any fraying, replace. Replace if it's been more than 5000 miles or 1 year since they were replaced last.
If you maintain it, it'll last a long time.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 122
Bikes: 2007 Giant OCR1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have 3k miles on my current bike. A shift cable broke last week so I took it to LBS to fix and asked the owner to check my chain while he was at it. He said the chain was badly stretched (I had been having some shifting issues) and needed to be replaced. He also said the cassette and chain wear together so I needed to replace the cassette. I had him do it, but it seems odd to me that you would have to replace a cassette every time you replace a chain. I'm wondering what others think about that.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern NY...Brownville
Posts: 2,568
Bikes: Specialized Aethos, Specialized Diverge Comp E5
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 237 Post(s)
Liked 451 Times
in
263 Posts
Until it or parts of it fail. It depends on the part, the care, how it is used, etc.
My old Ultegra shifters, rear shifter, began to fail in one gear after 5 years of very hard use. One of the detentes was wearing and needed a bit of extra trimming when shifting. It still worked but not perfectly. I replaced the drive train with Campy Carbon Record/Chorus and for the past 10 years has been flawless. The old Ultegra wound up on my cross bike and was used hard for the next 5 years before I sold the bike.
My old Ultegra shifters, rear shifter, began to fail in one gear after 5 years of very hard use. One of the detentes was wearing and needed a bit of extra trimming when shifting. It still worked but not perfectly. I replaced the drive train with Campy Carbon Record/Chorus and for the past 10 years has been flawless. The old Ultegra wound up on my cross bike and was used hard for the next 5 years before I sold the bike.
#11
Older, but not 'senior'
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: West coast of Ontario
Posts: 213
Bikes: Marinoni Trek
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
sounds like you are looking for a reason to justify SRAM red and the mechanic probably picked up on that.
#12
Lost
lots of people think their local bike mechanic is "awesome". if he cant make 3 year old DA stuff work perfect, he's much less than "awesome". i do all of my own bike work, but if i did use a mechanic and he told me " i had a hard time with..." anything - that would be the last time he saw me. bikes are very simple machines, someone getting paid to work on them should be dumbfounded by anything.
in other words - if you want sram red go for it, but know that your DA set-up is probably fine. lots of opinions on the forums, but DA and Sram Red are round about equal on performance, so you wont be gaining much.
p.s. - if you do get red, dont let your current "awesome" mechanic set it up.
in other words - if you want sram red go for it, but know that your DA set-up is probably fine. lots of opinions on the forums, but DA and Sram Red are round about equal on performance, so you wont be gaining much.
p.s. - if you do get red, dont let your current "awesome" mechanic set it up.
#13
out walking the earth
I have 3k miles on my current bike. A shift cable broke last week so I took it to LBS to fix and asked the owner to check my chain while he was at it. He said the chain was badly stretched (I had been having some shifting issues) and needed to be replaced. He also said the cassette and chain wear together so I needed to replace the cassette. I had him do it, but it seems odd to me that you would have to replace a cassette every time you replace a chain. I'm wondering what others think about that.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 122
Bikes: 2007 Giant OCR1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thanks. I realize that I should have mentioned in my post that the cassette and chain were both 105 and were both brand new 3000 miles ago. Should a 105 cassette really go bad after 3000 miles if it's kept fairly clean and well lubricated?
#15
Medicinal Cyclist
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Mohawk Valley/Adks, NYS
Posts: 2,807
Bikes: 2003 Klein Q Carbon Race; 2009 Giant OCR-1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My LBS said the same thing: Replace both at 2,000 miles or when the chain is stretched. I checked here, and the consensus seemed to be that if you replace the chain every 2,000 miles or so (again, when it is stretched 1/16th of an inch), then you should get more than 6,000 miles out of the cassette with multiple chains.
One thing to remember is that those chain-wear gauges don't work very well. Or, to put it another way, they work to the LBS and Shimano's advantage. Use a steel ruler instead.
Secondly, what gsteinb said.
One thing to remember is that those chain-wear gauges don't work very well. Or, to put it another way, they work to the LBS and Shimano's advantage. Use a steel ruler instead.
Secondly, what gsteinb said.
#16
I eat carbide.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Elgin, IL
Posts: 21,627
Bikes: Lots. Van Dessel and Squid Dealer
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1325 Post(s)
Liked 1,306 Times
in
560 Posts
I didn't read all of the responses but they probably said the same thing. Barring unforseen circumstances your DA 7800 should be fine for many more years to come.
First - new cables, housings and chain.
If that doesn't work then pin it down to exactly what component is failing or causing the problem. If you ran your chain too long then you might be needing new cassette and or chainrings. You would most likely notice skipping though instead of "imperfect shifting".
Also....times when I have had OK shifting in the stand but not while riding it has been the following:
Cables - friction - put a drop of oil on the cable carrier under the bottom bracket
Worn out derailler.
only about 3 times in 20 years has it been the shifters.
Even then 7800 is one of the best groups of all time IMHO. Get replacement parts and keep riding it.
First - new cables, housings and chain.
If that doesn't work then pin it down to exactly what component is failing or causing the problem. If you ran your chain too long then you might be needing new cassette and or chainrings. You would most likely notice skipping though instead of "imperfect shifting".
Also....times when I have had OK shifting in the stand but not while riding it has been the following:
Cables - friction - put a drop of oil on the cable carrier under the bottom bracket
Worn out derailler.
only about 3 times in 20 years has it been the shifters.
Even then 7800 is one of the best groups of all time IMHO. Get replacement parts and keep riding it.
__________________
PSIMET Wheels, PSIMET Racing, PSIMET Neutral Race Support, and 11 Jackson Coffee
Podcast - YouTube Channel
Video about PSIMET Wheels
Podcast - YouTube Channel
Video about PSIMET Wheels
#17
Senior Member
40,000 miles on my 2005 DA7800 group. While I do swap chains at around 3,000 miles
my cassetes are rarely ever replaced. I do replace all cables
at least once a year and usually more often than that. My bike still shifts and
stops as good as new.
my cassetes are rarely ever replaced. I do replace all cables
at least once a year and usually more often than that. My bike still shifts and
stops as good as new.
__________________
BMC Roadmachine
Kona Jake the Snake
BMC Roadmachine
Kona Jake the Snake
#18
TWilkins
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Springfield, MO
Posts: 352
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
In a word...NO. If you never cleaned and lubed your chain, it's possible that it might have worn enough to damage the cassette as well, but with cleaning and lube mine have all lasted at least that long if not longer.
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Gatineau, Quebec
Posts: 347
Bikes: Rocky Mountain
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
As long as you don't run a worn chain far too long the rest of the drivetrain should last a long, long time.
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Warrenton, VA
Posts: 122
Bikes: 2007 Giant OCR1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Thank you for the responses regarding the need for cassette replacement. I think I'll be more careful about measuring my chain to prevent premature wear of the cassette. Maybe the LBS was erring on the side that would bring it more revenue, but I had been thinking for a while about getting a smaller cassette and this gave me a good opportunity to do so.
#21
Senior Member
My 1991 Dura-Ace 8-spd drivetrain has about 60,000 miles on it and going strong. Mileage spread out between 4 different sets of wheels. I regularly clean and oil my chain every 500 miles or so. I get about 4-6k miles out of a chain. Cassette replaced every 10-15k miles or so. Although I did have an aluminium freewheel on the race-wheels that only lasted about 6,000 miles.
#23
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: My family and I -- wife and two young children -- live in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
Posts: 723
Bikes: TST ti 'cross bike (commuter); Guru ti road bike; recumbent; Airnimal Chameleon folding racing bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#24
gmt
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Binghamton, NY
Posts: 12,509
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 45 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
this.
I had a chain stretch by more than .25 with less than 1000 miles on the cross bike due to conditions and corrosion. It nearly ruined the drivetrain but I managed to catch it before it did too much damage.
I had a chain stretch by more than .25 with less than 1000 miles on the cross bike due to conditions and corrosion. It nearly ruined the drivetrain but I managed to catch it before it did too much damage.
#25
Administrator
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Delaware shore
Posts: 13,557
Bikes: Cervelo C5, Guru Photon, Waterford, Specialized CX
Mentioned: 16 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1106 Post(s)
Liked 2,171 Times
in
1,462 Posts
I get about 2500 miles on a chain and change the cassette with the third chain.