Internal shift cable broken in Kestrel 4000: How to extract?
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
Internal shift cable broken in Kestrel 4000: How to extract?
I'm working on my son's '80s-vintage carbon-fiber Kestrel 4000. See photos below.
Cabling is internally routed. The cable housing is embedded inside, so only the cable itself is replaceable.
The front-derailleur cable has broken internally. The break is about 10" from the top hole, and 1" from the bottom hole. The broken cable is stuck where it makes a bend in the bottom-bracket area. I have tried to push it through with a stiff cable; no dice. I've tried to grab a strand from the bottom with a tiny needle-nose; no dice.
I can see the cable housing through the bottom-bracket opening, but I'm loath to try to cut it open there.
Any ideas of how to extract a cable that's broken internally this way?
Is there a Kestrel 4000 forum somewhere?
Thanks!
The bike:
The cable holes bottom and top. The cable is broken inside, in between. The break ends just shy of the bottom hole.
The view up the BB hole into the downtube. The curved brownish thing is the cable housing embedded in the resin.
Cabling is internally routed. The cable housing is embedded inside, so only the cable itself is replaceable.
The front-derailleur cable has broken internally. The break is about 10" from the top hole, and 1" from the bottom hole. The broken cable is stuck where it makes a bend in the bottom-bracket area. I have tried to push it through with a stiff cable; no dice. I've tried to grab a strand from the bottom with a tiny needle-nose; no dice.
I can see the cable housing through the bottom-bracket opening, but I'm loath to try to cut it open there.
Any ideas of how to extract a cable that's broken internally this way?
Is there a Kestrel 4000 forum somewhere?
Thanks!
The bike:
The cable holes bottom and top. The cable is broken inside, in between. The break ends just shy of the bottom hole.
The view up the BB hole into the downtube. The curved brownish thing is the cable housing embedded in the resin.
#2
Sock Puppet
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,701
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon, 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit and too many others to mention.
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times
in
573 Posts
Aren't internally routed cables fun - NOT!!
Are you sure the housings are inside the frame? Most internally routed cables have housings that end at the frame openings and it's just bare cable inside the frame.
Are you sure the housings are inside the frame? Most internally routed cables have housings that end at the frame openings and it's just bare cable inside the frame.
#3
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,071
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4199 Post(s)
Liked 3,851 Times
in
2,301 Posts
I might not use the term "housing" as that implies a metal reinforced tunnel. I suspect your frame uses a plastic tube (think aquarium filtering tubing). These bikes were designed early on in the "modern" era of internal routing and weren't too nice a method. It sounds like the cable has rusted tight in the tunnel and the tunnel is bonded into the carbon skin. When you grow tired or trying the near impossible consider going to exposed cables and housings. Some cable housing stops will be needed but could well be easier to make or find then surgery in a frame never intended to be able to be fixed. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
Ah, that helps! Eyeballing the casing, I couldn’t tell whether there was metal in there. If it’s plastic, I wonder if I couldn’t carefully cut away a bit, perhaps with a dremel or Exacto knife and expose the cable enough to pull it out.
#6
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,071
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4199 Post(s)
Liked 3,851 Times
in
2,301 Posts
It might be possible to bypass the embedded tunnels with fresh ones and still have them internal. Unsure how tight up to the cable entry/exit ports the plastic tunnels are. Unsure how much clearance between the ID of the shell area and the BB axle is.
People have used a vacuum cleaner to draw through a frame a length of thread and then attach an inner cable to that to pull the cable through. Sometimes sliding cable liner into and through the frame is possible. Good luck. Andy
People have used a vacuum cleaner to draw through a frame a length of thread and then attach an inner cable to that to pull the cable through. Sometimes sliding cable liner into and through the frame is possible. Good luck. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,012
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4372 Post(s)
Liked 1,549 Times
in
1,014 Posts
Dowse the hole from both ends with PB Blaster or some other enzyme bolt loosener and let soak for a few days. Then try pushing it out with a brake cable.
You could also try getting some oxalic acid in there to eat the rust. Active ingredient in Barkeeper's Friend.
Finally, if it has a plastic lining, you could put a syringe of circuit board etching acid or some other acid that eats steel into the liner. Most acids don't effect plastic. Neutralize and push the remains out.
There is probably an electrolytic way of corroding away the cable using a car battery. Dunno. Science!
You could also try getting some oxalic acid in there to eat the rust. Active ingredient in Barkeeper's Friend.
Finally, if it has a plastic lining, you could put a syringe of circuit board etching acid or some other acid that eats steel into the liner. Most acids don't effect plastic. Neutralize and push the remains out.
There is probably an electrolytic way of corroding away the cable using a car battery. Dunno. Science!
Likes For Kontact:
#8
Sock Puppet
Join Date: Oct 2022
Location: Planet Earth
Posts: 1,701
Bikes: 2014 Cannondale Synapse Carbon, 2017 Jamis Renegade Exploit and too many others to mention.
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1031 Post(s)
Liked 863 Times
in
573 Posts
At this point, I would bite the bullet and take it to a bike shop.
Likes For Lombard:
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,012
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4372 Post(s)
Liked 1,549 Times
in
1,014 Posts
What's a bike shop going to do? I am a shop mechanic, and we don't keep a bunch of acids or carbon repair stuff on hand.
In case anyone doesn't know, the Kestrel 4000 is essentially the first frame of this kind. It is truly monocoque - they made it in one piece, in one mold, all at the same time. It doesn't have access ports under the BB. The inside is full of air bladders.
That cable is stuck because the bottom of the loop is a closed low point - like the brake cable on a mixte rear brake. The only practical solution is go make enough of the rust go away to get it moving again.
BTW, it might be worth an email to Kestrel. There might still be some corporate knowledge about this sort of failure.
In case anyone doesn't know, the Kestrel 4000 is essentially the first frame of this kind. It is truly monocoque - they made it in one piece, in one mold, all at the same time. It doesn't have access ports under the BB. The inside is full of air bladders.
That cable is stuck because the bottom of the loop is a closed low point - like the brake cable on a mixte rear brake. The only practical solution is go make enough of the rust go away to get it moving again.
BTW, it might be worth an email to Kestrel. There might still be some corporate knowledge about this sort of failure.
Likes For Kontact:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2020
Location: Wake Forest, NC
Posts: 5,783
Bikes: 1989 Cinelli Supercorsa
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3504 Post(s)
Liked 2,922 Times
in
1,774 Posts
As a former bike shop wrench, I like finding solutions to weird bike problems. But my gut's telling me that frame may be a goner. Unless you go the exposed-cable route.
Last edited by smd4; 02-16-23 at 11:04 AM.
#11
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
#12
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
You’re probably right. If I can’t find a non-invasive solution, I’ll first get in through the BB hole and cut open a bit of that plastic housing and try to expose some of the stuck cable.
#13
Disco Infiltrator
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Folsom CA
Posts: 13,446
Bikes: Stormchaser, Paramount, Tilt, Samba tandem
Mentioned: 72 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3126 Post(s)
Liked 2,105 Times
in
1,369 Posts
Any chance of blowing it out with compressed air? Maybe with something like computer cleaner canned air instead of a compressor, it has the little tube and a smaller flow rate that won't endanger anything. Actually that tube itself might help push it out if you had a roll of it.
I happen to know one of the original Kestrel engineers through work. He's one of the three "real aerospace engineers" in the old magazine ad. But he was not a day-to-day guy assembling bikes and I am sure he would have no special idea how to fish out the cable that anyone here hasn't already suggested
I happen to know one of the original Kestrel engineers through work. He's one of the three "real aerospace engineers" in the old magazine ad. But he was not a day-to-day guy assembling bikes and I am sure he would have no special idea how to fish out the cable that anyone here hasn't already suggested
__________________
Genesis 49:16-17
Genesis 49:16-17
#14
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
Yep, tried both air from my compressor and one of those computer-cleaner cans. I think part of the problem is that it’s embedded in a “U” shape where the housing curves from the down tube up to the exit in the seat tube. So pushing on one end makes it bind, rather than push out, I think.
#15
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
Here are two more pix to give a better idea of the place where the cable is stuck internally.
Bottom bracket with bike upside down, showing access hole and opening into the downtube:
Looking into downtube at the cable housing. The crumpled plastic is the bladder around which the fiber was wound, I think, and yes that's a Christmas-tree light in there. And spelled derailleur wrong.
Bottom bracket with bike upside down, showing access hole and opening into the downtube:
Looking into downtube at the cable housing. The crumpled plastic is the bladder around which the fiber was wound, I think, and yes that's a Christmas-tree light in there. And spelled derailleur wrong.
Last edited by sapporoguy; 02-16-23 at 03:56 PM.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2011
Posts: 7,012
Mentioned: 41 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4372 Post(s)
Liked 1,549 Times
in
1,014 Posts
I wasn't aware of the tunnel in the bottom of the BB. Come to think of it, I've never worked on a 4000, just the 200 and later series bikes. They were rare back in the day.
Given that the housing just acts as a liner rather than having stops, there is a stronger possibility of drilling out the old ones for replacement. But the problem area is how it gets around the BB shell. So you might want to stick to methods of getting the cable unstuck, first.
Given that the housing just acts as a liner rather than having stops, there is a stronger possibility of drilling out the old ones for replacement. But the problem area is how it gets around the BB shell. So you might want to stick to methods of getting the cable unstuck, first.
#17
aka: Dr. Cannondale
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 7,729
Mentioned: 234 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2152 Post(s)
Liked 3,402 Times
in
1,203 Posts
Would be tempted to spray copious amounts of PB Blaster into both ends and allow to soak overnight.
Then use a length of THIN hanger wire (the white coated stuff) to push the cable up from the BB and out the downtube port.
Don’t think you’ll be able to push it out through the curve in the bottom even though it may be closer.
I’d be pretty agressive about it, too.
Then use a length of THIN hanger wire (the white coated stuff) to push the cable up from the BB and out the downtube port.
Don’t think you’ll be able to push it out through the curve in the bottom even though it may be closer.
I’d be pretty agressive about it, too.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#19
Full Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: San Francisco
Posts: 259
Bikes: 2000 Santana Sovereign SE; 2005 Co-Motion Speedster; Kona Kilauea with various dorky commuter accoutrements; Mercier Kilo TT fixie; Burley Fladbed trailer for groceries, bags of cement and the like.
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 95 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 85 Times
in
41 Posts
#20
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2020
Location: Humboldt County, CA
Posts: 832
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 405 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 430 Times
in
286 Posts
If enquiries to Kestrel don't bear fruit, maybe an email to Craig Calfee might be worth a shot? Dude's probably seen every carbon bike ever made by now, and he's been doing repairs on carbon frames for many, many years. He might have seen this problem.
If there is a way to save this frame, this frame should be saved. Whatever you do, don't throw it away... even as wall art, it's worth preserving. It's one of the most significant bicycles of all time, and there aren't many of them left.
--Shannon
If there is a way to save this frame, this frame should be saved. Whatever you do, don't throw it away... even as wall art, it's worth preserving. It's one of the most significant bicycles of all time, and there aren't many of them left.
--Shannon
Likes For ShannonM:
#21
Sr Member on Sr bikes
I think I’d continue trying to push it out. But instead of using and old braided cable, maybe a steel wire of the appropriate thickness would work better.
Dan
Dan
#22
SE Wis
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Milwaukee, WI
Posts: 10,507
Bikes: '68 Raleigh Sprite, '02 Raleigh C500, '84 Raleigh Gran Prix, '91 Trek 400, 2013 Novara Randonee, 1990 Trek 970
Mentioned: 40 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2744 Post(s)
Liked 3,390 Times
in
2,053 Posts