Kars 

I installed new cables and housing for both front and rear derailleurs on a Bianchi with mirage 8 speed shifters. Also put new chain and new cassette on. I followed all required steps. I was having a heck of a time pulling the new cable just before tightening down on the derailleur cable anchor bolt. It was very hard to get enough tensign on it.I finally moved the derailleur over a few cogs up from the smallest and then tightened down on it to clamp the cable. I think I have enough tension on it now but it shifts poorly from the largest cog down to the second and third largest cogs and poor back up as well. It works sometimes but other times it skips a cog. I tried adjusting the cable tension screw (barrel screw) and it helped a little but still shifts rough. Any ideas ,or tricks to installing cable/housings on these vintage campy parts. I thought this would be easy but I a

m finding it very finicky. Thanks in advance.

gearbasher

Rear cable is coming off the chainstay cable stop at a funky angle. That could be causing some heartaches. Maybe you need a step down ferrule?

Andrew R Stewart 

This! And is this is an example of the not shown other casing fittings in to stops and casing seats then no wonder you hare having cable/sis adjustment issues. The shown chain stay stop looks to be a classic "diver's bell" type that lacks a seat for the casing end cap. There are casing end caps with a snout that will engage the stop's through hole and better align the casing with the cable's tension path. This is well known by most all shop guys. Have you a LBS you can seek help from near by? Andy

DaveSSS 

I had campy 8 speed on a new Tommasini Sintesi, back when it was the latest thing. I don't remember raised lettering on the RD, so it makes me wonder if it's an older, incompatible RD. Good catch on the cable ferrule. You need a specific model with a reduced diameter at the end.

Cable friction must be kept to a minimum for any indexed shifter to work properly. If all shifts to larger sprockets works, but shifts to smaller ones doesn't, then cable friction is most likely a problem.

zacster

My first thought was also the cable stop. And on top of that, is your hanger straight? I can't really tell from the picture one way or the other. What else? Are you using indexed cable housing? It also looks to be too long, which would also correspond to the angle. When cutting indexed cable housing cut it with the bend in place so that the cut is perpendicular across all the strands.

Kars 

I used the bottom ferule in the picture below. Not the top one because it fit even less than the top one. Neither fits well in that they don't prevent the bending. All the ferrule parts I used were from a universal Jag wire kit. The cable is campy cable and housing is the jag wire housing. Anyone know where to get the proper ferule? The cable housing is just univesal jagwire derailleur cable. The lbs is far and probably closed now. Thanks to all for the help.

Kars 

The shifters are indexed campy 8 speed mirage. The hanger appears straight. It is directly part of the frame. There is no separate hanger.

3alarmer 

...if you remove the cable and the ferrule from the back end of that stop, and inspect it closely, I think you'll discover that it is, indeed, one of those "diving bell" stops. There might be step down ferrules that will fit in those, but if there are, I've never found one. They usually show up on frames that were constructed pre-index shifting IME.

Sometimes, you can (very gently and carefully) modify them by enlarging the hole the cable goes through so it's large enough to accept the stepped down end of a standard step down ferrule. I have done this once or twice. The danger is in enlarging it too much, and ruining the stop. A safer alternative is to just use a rounded end ferrule of the sort that was originally intended for this stop, and then back somewhere along the stay or at the dropout (if it's one of those that allow it), use a small zip tie to secure the housing so youi have a fixed point that encourages it to run straight along the stay. Make sure your zip tie head is outboard, or there's sometimes danger of interference with the chain on the smallest cog.

3alarmer 

DaveSSS 

You cannot tell anything by looking at a hanger. You need to buy the alignment tool or take the bike to a shop that has one.

Kars 

thanks very much. If I cannot find this special ferule, I will try the zip tie. I probably will try that regardless because it will take me some time to get the ferule anyway if I find it.

Kars 

great thanks. I will do some searches to find these. Maybe campy makes them ?

Kars 

Thanks. I will check the alignment. Hopefully it is ok. If not it may be hard to bend it because it is part of the frame?

Andrew R Stewart 

The current versions of the correct ferules come as one of the pack of ferules when a shop gets a bulk bag of 5mm SIS casing. The last 4 shops I've been in have had scores of them as they are rarely used and good shops don't toss out odd stuff (or at least all the odd stuff, no telling when the old bike will come in). If someone walked into Full Moon Vista I'd hand them one, and maybe a second for the god floor (mechanics know what I refer to, praying they find that tiny bit that dropped). One more reason to befriend a LBS, they can supply small bits that online packaging intended for a consumer won't have. The classic Campy ferule is shown here. Andy

RGMN

AFAIK the only way to get the Campag version is to purchase a complete brake and derailleur housing & cable kit.

DaveSSS 

Hangers are not hard to bend. The measuring tool is used to do the bending.

Kars 

great thanks for the good information. I will see if my nearest shop has this. Will call first to make sure they are open.

gfk_velo

Genuine Campag after-market gear cable sets are still supplied with step-down ferrules included.
You can buy them loose, the Campag part number is 10-CG-CS013, any Campagnolo ProShop can order them for you from the market's Campagnolo Service Centre.
If you are in the UK you can order from us directly via email.
For good function on any Campag system, use all metal ferrules. I'd strongly suggest Campag inner cables as well, at least - for one thing, the lever nipple size is slightly smaller than Shimano - the Shimano-sized nipple will "eventually" pull into the cable bushings in the Campag levers but getting them out again can be an awkward job and may need the lever to be dismantled, depending on how firmly they have lodged. We end up having to help about a dozen customers a year with this issue.The second reason is that the Campag cables are very smooth surfaced. they are braided and double die-drawn where most are only die-drawn once, if at all. The means that they tend to erode the nylon sleeve of the outer cable, giving you shorter cable life.

Kars 

That is very useful information, thanks. The original ferules that came with the bike were all metal, which is consistent with what you are saying. I did notice that the original metal ferules fit more loosely on the universal jagwire housing versus the jagwire fittings/ferrules. Does original Campy housing have a slightly larger outside diameter or is this loose fit normal?

Kars 

Thanks jim Dandy. That looks like the same model derailleur that I have. The cable looks quite angled in the picture but if it works then I guess that means that the ferrule is doing what it is supposed to do. I now have a metal ferule that am going to try. Fingers crossed it works

gfk_velo

Campag changed the OD of their gear outer when they introduced UltraShift cables in 2009, to coincide with the launch of 11s.
The new cables were designed to be reverse compatible with 8, 9 and 10s, so they kept the ferrules the same size to fit levers that needed them, etc - the 4.5mm outer (that replaced Campag's original 5mm outer) was a loose fit but because the ferrules are metal, not plastic, that loose fit rarely causes a problem.
Generally I'd look at complete cable sets from the original manuafcturer, Campag with Campag, Shimano with Shimano and SRAM with SRAM ... that way, assuming that everything is assembled correctly, you can be pretty sure short and long term, that everything will perform to the standard that it was designed to. In the context of maybe 12 months life on the cables and the cost of the bike overall, an extra £10.00 or $13.00 on a genuine, manufacturer-specified cable set is, most of the time, anyway, money well spent. I know budgets are tight, never more so at the moment for many - but wherever viable, that would be my recommendation.